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      06-24-2019, 08:58 PM   #23
ShocknAwe
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Subframe bushings are the backbone of the rear suspension. Fine if you don't want to do it but just be aware.
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      06-24-2019, 11:47 PM   #24
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In a stock 135i, the rear subframe bushings are *very much* a part of the suspension.
1) They are used to absorb the road vibrations transmitted through the RFT tires.
2) They are claimed to place an upper limit on the maximum rear spring rate that can be used. (reference from TC Kline)

Only after you replace the bushings with a hard rubber/elastomer or solid metal component, then it can behave like a structural component.
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      06-25-2019, 03:10 AM   #25
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Subframe should be directly mounted to the body as it was done and i still done on many BMW.
Hard enough PU is close enough.
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      06-25-2019, 05:43 AM   #26
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I think my solid polyurethan bushings are closers than metal component compared to stock bushings.
While installing a metal bar on it, it was impossible to have a deformation but on the stock ones it was possible even with a screw driver ...
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      02-21-2020, 03:14 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vincefreeflyer View Post
Front bushong are in 2 parts so easy to install! But rear are a pain to engage


Any idea why Strongflex didn't make the rear 2 pieces too??
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      02-22-2020, 11:22 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
How to avoid loss of much brake fluid?
Avoiding brake fluid loss when disconnecting brake lines (and the associated potential for loss of prime in the ABS pump if the reservoir runs dry) is quite easy and works on all cars:

- depress the brake pedal half way and hold it there while the the brake lines are disconnected
- there are special tools to do this, but all you need is a piece of wood cut to the correct length so that it fits between the seat and the pedal. Adjust the seat position to fine tune the pedal depression

This is a basic technique that "all" automotive technicians know ...
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      02-23-2020, 09:53 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fe1rx View Post
Avoiding brake fluid loss when disconnecting brake lines (and the associated potential for loss of prime in the ABS pump if the reservoir runs dry) is quite easy and works on all cars:

- depress the brake pedal half way and hold it there while the the brake lines are disconnected
- there are special tools to do this, but all you need is a piece of wood cut to the correct length so that it fits between the seat and the pedal. Adjust the seat position to fine tune the pedal depression

This is a basic technique that "all" automotive technicians know ...
This is great to know. What specifically prevents the loss of fluid and priming?
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      02-23-2020, 01:17 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
This is great to know. What specifically prevents the loss of fluid and priming?
As soon as you move the brake pedal in a little the master cylinder piston is past the fluid reservoir inlet port preventing further ingress of fluid or air.
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      02-23-2020, 01:36 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suprgnat View Post
As soon as you move the brake pedal in a little the master cylinder piston is past the fluid reservoir inlet port preventing further ingress of fluid or air.
Makes perfect sense. Thanks for the explanation!
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      02-24-2020, 12:56 PM   #32
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But by depressing the pedal a bit, won't fluid be coming out of the open lines? I suppose it won't be much, but you're gonna lose some fluid no matter what method you chose. I personally have some "caps" that I screw onto the end of the brake line.
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      04-28-2020, 08:20 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_01 View Post
In a stock 135i, the rear subframe bushings are *very much* a part of the suspension.
1) They are used to absorb the road vibrations transmitted through the RFT tires.
2) They are claimed to place an upper limit on the maximum rear spring rate that can be used. (reference from TC Kline)

Only after you replace the bushings with a hard rubber/elastomer or solid metal component, then it can behave like a structural component.
Can vouch for your second point from experience. If you upgrade to stiffer spring + coilovers, say 700#, you will notice with this setup that the rear suspension will feel like it's moving around when you're cornering. The energy from the spring is too much for the bushing to handle. M3 subframe bushings got rid of that. I would like to see the difference between these and aluminum, if they ever wear out I'll be going aluminum, i know that much.
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