Common adaptive headlight error + headlight out + housing moisture. Cause? Fix?

[hungrybreadbutterhustle]

I just picked up a 2011 135i m-sport (Prod. Date: 2011-01-06) knowing that there was an issue with the adaptive headlights (cost to fix was negotiated in).

I'm been reading a ton of threads here but they seem to deal mostly with aftermarket lights and bad seals. I believe I have stock lights (see below), but I'm getting the dreaded Adaptive Headlight warning and the actual headlight is out:



Here's the classic moisture in headlight shot:




What I can't tell is if they are aftermarket units? I didn't think they would be since my VIN Decodes with: 522-Xenon-Light / Xenon-licht. I don't know if you guys are familiar enough just to tell by the harness. These two pieces were just laying loose in the cover, which seemed sloppy for OEM (and the pink hues are odd)? [EDIT: Definitely aftermarket]







There's no cracks or splits in the housing, the back cover was firmly in place. It would be nice to try to figure out how the moisture got in there before I start swapping in new parts — would hate to fix it and just have it happen all over again.

Where should I start?



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EDIT: Summary of Solution from later in the thread (for future searches)
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I dried out the headlight by removing the rear cover of the headlight and placing a box fan on the engine, pointed at the headlight to move air into the housing. From the front, I positioned a shop light about 18" away to cast some heat into the housing. I left this setup for a few hours and it eventually dried up all the moisture inside the headlight.

I removed the headlight from the car and discovered that the Control Module (that controls the Adaptive Headlights) and the Ballast (that powers the Xenon Headlight light), both located on the bottom of the headlight, were full of water and corroded. I replaced the Control Module (part# 63117180829) and the Ballast (part# 63117180050) and both the errors are now gone, the Adaptive Headlight and the Headlight light now work properly.




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[mc3456]

Obviously not OEM.

[hungrybreadbutterhustle]

Originally Posted by mc3456

Obviously not OEM.

I wonder why the hell the PO replaced the OEM's? The OEM's would have been the same coloring and everything, right?

[hungrybreadbutterhustle]

Update:

The plot thickens (get's worse):

1. I just had the lady friend turn the wheel while the car was running and absolute zilch movement from BOTH driver and passenger.

2. I dried out the moisture from the passenger side (low-heat lamp/fan) and then swapped the working bulb from the driver's side over to passenger — still didn't light up. If the control unit was fried, would it still at least light the bulb or does that also effect power to the bulb?

[SchismX]

Originally Posted by hungrybreadbutterhustle

Update:

The plot thickens (get's worse):

1. I just had the lady friend turn the wheel while the car was running and absolute zilch movement from BOTH driver and passenger.

2. I dried out the moisture from the passenger side (low-heat lamp/fan) and then swapped the working bulb from the driver's side over to passenger — still didn't light up. If the control unit was fried, would it still at least light the bulb or does that also effect power to the bulb?

If you have a headlight malfunction your adaptive headlights will not work from either side.

I had the same problem, most likely your ballast(control unit) is dead. I would remove the passenger light assembly to make sure it's completely dry. Then remove the ballast from the bottom and check for moisture and corrosion. Good luck

[hungrybreadbutterhustle]

Originally Posted by SchismX

If you have a headlight malfunction your adaptive headlights will not work from either side.

I had the same problem, most likely your ballast(control unit) is dead. I would remove the passenger light assembly to make sure it's completely dry. Then remove the ballast from the bottom and check for moisture and corrosion. Good luck

So if one side is dead, it will cause both sides to not move? If I pull a code from the car, would it tell me specifically what side is causing the issue?

This is the control unit, yes?
14 CONTROL UNIT XENON LIGHT 2 63117180050 $449.90

[SchismX]

Originally Posted by hungrybreadbutterhustle

So if one side is dead, it will cause both sides to not move? If I pull a code from the car, would it tell me specifically what side is causing the issue?

This is the control unit, yes?
14 CONTROL UNIT XENON LIGHT 2 63117180050 $449.90

Correct, neither side will move. Since your passenger light is out, it would be safe to assume all of your issues are coming from the right side. As far as I know you can't pull codes for something like this, not sure. I would strongly recommend you buy some OEM angel eye bulbs and get rid of those aftermarket ones.

And yes, that is the part I am talking about.

[gap]

Hope you get this sorted out.
Cover probably not installed correctly. I replaced my covers this year , should be done every 6 years or so since the gasket loses elasticity and can leak. Don't know why
so many have difficutly getting them back on correclty, really not that hard.
Good luck getting this sorted out.

[hungrybreadbutterhustle]

Originally Posted by SchismX

I would strongly recommend you buy some OEM angel eye bulbs and get rid of those aftermarket ones.

Thanks SchismX. My model came with white-light-xenons, (i.e. like this) did it not? I'm just confused as to why the PO would have put anything aftermarket in there to begin with. I suppose it's not the reason that matters, it may just be a thinly veiled question to confirm that this is the right parts-set for my car.

-

[hungrybreadbutterhustle]

One part of the question still remains.... AHL aside, why is the

View post on imgur.com

? Even when I swapped the bulb from the drivers side (where it lights up fine), it didn't light up on the passenger side.

Maybe it's not AHL aside? Can the issue with the

View post on imgur.com

and AHL make the bulb not light up properly? i.e. everything is related and you can't have a dead AHL control until and the headlight still work?

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by mc3456

Obviously not OEM.

ALL us-spec 135i's have AHL xenons as standard equipment.

On US spec 128i's xenons were optional. In the rest of the world... they had three headlight options for all 1er's... Halogens, Xenons(inner lens are clear) and AHL Xenons(inner lens is opaque).

What's not OE are those purple(?) finned alu ballasts wired into the back of your headlights. Looks like whoever did the wiring job, never bothered to put back the headlight covers(behind the headlights) and that allowed moister into the headlights. When that happens it can blow out(up) the footwell module AND/or the internal wiring inside the headlight. New headlights are about $700 per side. A footwell module is a few hundred - plus it will need to be coded to your car.

Some people have success in removing the headlight and using a hairdryer to blow out the water. Or leave them sitting in the sun. The damage is probably done already - you will probably need a new headlight and/or footwell module/bulb.

The AHL function will ONLY WORK when the headlight switch is in the AUTO position! (turned to the full LEFT counter clockwise). IF you turn the headlights manually on... the heads stay locked in the straight ahead position. They will not turn when you turn the steering wheel.

Dackel



headlight switch in the OFF position. Auto is to the LEFT counter clockwise.
Note: this is also the euro switch with rear brake fog light switch on the lower righthand side.


non-AHL xenons


AHL xenons (these are also LCI lights, ie: the brows)

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by hungrybreadbutterhustle

One part of the question still remains.... AHL aside, why is the

View post on imgur.com

? Even when I swapped the bulb from the drivers side (where it lights up fine), it didn't light up on the passenger side.

bc either the control unit under the headlight(#14) in the parts diagram is bad or your footwell module is bad.

[hungrybreadbutterhustle]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

ALL us-spec 135i's had AHL xenons as standard equipment.

On US spec 128i's xenons were optional. In the rest of the world... they had three headlight options for all 1er's... Halogens, Xenons(inner lens are clear) and AHL Xenons(inner lens is opaque).

What's not OE are those purple(?) finned alu ballasts wired into the back of your headlights. Looks like whoever did the wiring job, never bothered to put back the headlight covers(behind the headlights) and that allowed moister into the headlights. When that happens it can blow out(up) the footwell module AND/or the internal wiring inside the headlight. New headlights are about $700 per side. A footwell module is a few hundred - plus it will need to be coded to your car.

Excellent clarification. Thank you. That's what's so confusing about this is WHY those finned ballasts/bulbs were put in by the PO if there were already Xenons in there (I've seen people do that, of course, to go from Halogen to Xenons).

The covers were on and on tight but who knows if that's always been the case.

[hungrybreadbutterhustle]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

bc either the control unit under the headlight(#14) in the parts diagram is bad or your footwell module is bad.

Regarding the footwell module. From what I've been reading here on the forum... wouldn't there be a high chance that other things would be acting screwy — like the other headlight, windows, light package stuff?

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by hungrybreadbutterhustle

Excellent clarification. Thank you. That's what's so confusing about this is WHY those finned ballasts/bulbs were put in by the PO if there were already Xenons in there (I've seen people do that, of course, to go from Halogen to Xenons).

The covers were on and on tight but who knows if that's always been the case.

Those finned ballast are for xenon AE(Angel Eyes), not the headlights but for the AE rings. It was a common way to mod the yellow-ish AE to bright white. Most people just replace the AE bulbs with M-tech bulbs though. Or code the AE's to run a slightly higher voltage and look less yellow in color.

Originally Posted by hungrybreadbutterhustle

Regarding the footwell module. From what I've been reading here on the forum... wouldn't there be a high chance that other things would be acting screwy — like the other headlight, windows, light package stuff?

No, not always. I am no headlight expert, but... I do remember a member on here saying how he changed his AE bulbs, didn't get one of the covers back on(passenger side bc thats the harder one to put back on correctly) and his headlight went out like yours.

He then pulled his bumper off and pulled out the headlights... he thought it must have been the control unit under the headlight that was bad. In doing so he burnt up the "good" ecu from the driver's headlamp. It was his footwell module that was bad. In the end he needed one passenger headlight, two headlight ecu's and one footwell module and one headlight light bulb for the passenger headlight(bc he also broke that). It was a mess.

I only remember the guy was in the military stationed near K-town and was driving around for weeks with only one headlight and then no headlights... bc he never had time to fix them.

update: Here is that thread I remembered... e46m3to335i

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=494279

I remember talking to the OP of this above thread in PM's... I think there was more to the "fix" than he posted. I don't remember all the details though.

and...
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=494279

[hungrybreadbutterhustle]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Those finned ballast are for xenon AE(Angel Eyes), not the headlights but for the AE rings. It was a common way to mod the yellow-ish AE to bright white. Most people just replace the AE bulbs with M-tech bulbs though. Or code the AE's to run a slightly higher voltage and look less yellow in color.

Got it, that may explain it.

Originally Posted by Dackelone

He then pulled his bumper off and pulled out the headlights... he thought it must have been the control unit under the headlight that was bad. In doing so he burnt up the "good" ecu from the driver's headlamp. It was his footwell module that was bad. In the end he needed one passenger headlight, two headlight ecu's and one footwell module and one headlight light bulb for the passenger headlight(bc he also broke that). It was a mess.

Well.... shit. Is there a way to make certain the footwell module is still good before replacing all the other parts? I just ordered a new ballast AND a new Adaptive Light Control Box, so that would be really bad to blow those up.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by hungrybreadbutterhustle

Got it, that may explain it.




Well.... shit. Is there a way to make certain the footwell module is still good before replacing all the other parts? I just ordered a new ballast AND a new Adaptive Light Control Box, so that would be really bad to blow those up.

There must be... but I have never seen a good FAQ/DIY over here on it. Maybe search on the e90forum ? I suspect you will need to use NCSExpert.

[Bimmer-Bob]

I bet it's a bad ballast, but you need to pull the light completely out of the car to replace that. Or maybe the original ballast is missing or just disconnected? Like Dackelone saide, the PO likely swapped to an LED AE set up, which has it's own ballasts installed inside the headlamp housing (rather than underneath the headlamp like the much larger OEM ballast). I think that's what that pink/purple thing is - wonder where the PO got that from? I'm not super-familiar with the aftermarket headlamp "upgrades," but I've never seen any that looked like that.

Anyway, another issue I've seen on the boards is that sometimes the LED ballasts interfere with the AHL motor operation, since there's not really enough room for them in the headlamp to begin with, and the break things that way.

I hope you got a good discount from the PO for all this mess!

And, now for a shameless plug: if you do end up needing new headlamps, I've got a (pre-LCI) set for sale cheap in the classifieds section.

Good luck!

[TUN3D]

hungrybreadbutterhustle >

If the adaptive function fails, but the lights in the unit are working (HID, angles, high-beam, etc.), and you get an in-dash error -- its the control unit:

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES172035/
63117180829

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If the main HID light is out (based on your picture...it is), then its the ballast. You can swap out the bulbs, ballast, and adaptive module from the working light to test -- won't cost you a dime. Just make sure the light is dry before testing:

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES172034/
63117180050

If both the light and adaptive are not working, then you'll need both. Again, you can swap it all out from the working headlamp to test without spending any money.

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Note: From your pictures, the angles seem to be working correctly -- that's not your problem.

Those loose resistors are from an aftermarket LED angel eye kit/HID angel eye kit. If its an LED angel eye kit, then you'll see those resistors inside the lamp. Unfortunately, although sloppy, that's how it is (http://www.jekusa.com/ebay/P/HLB-H8-20W-W.jpg).

If you have an HID angel kit, you'll have an additional ballast outside the lamp...along with a hole/grommet on the light cap. If you DON'T have an external ballast or those holes in the light caps, then you DO NOT have an HID angel kit.

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In any case, you're fine on that front man -- the angels are ok. Your main HID on the right is out -- it has nothing to do with those resistors/angel eyes. As far as the condensation, the previous owner probably didn't close the cap properly. Its not uncommon as there is very limited space to maneuver behind the right lamp. Even when you think you got it closed properly, sometimes it isn't.

DO THIS:
1) Swap out the HID bulb from the good light...
Note: If it works, then you know its just a bulb. If it doesn't...its the ballast.

2) If after the bulb swap, it doesn't come on, then swap the ballast from the good light. The light should come on even if the adaptive is not working.

3) Test the adaptive function -- I sent you a PM about it. Just like Dak said, make sure the headlight switch is in the AUTO position...then turn the car on or cycle to the first position. If the adaptive is not working properly, then swap out the control unit and retest.

These simple swaps will help you identify the issue without spending any unnecessary money -- then simply buy what you need.

FINALLY, on the right lamp -- once you fix it...make sure you put the cap back on properly before reinstalling the light assembly. You'll thank me later.

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CLARIFICATION:

If you have a headlight malfunction your adaptive headlights will not work from either side.

Sorry man, this is not true. The adaptive system works independently from one another. If your adaptive function is out on one side, it WILL NOT cause the other side to fail. There are independent error codes for both sides. There are also codes for the HID bulb malfunction (if I remember correctly).

Adaptive motor failure codes:
9CC0 - SMC Right defective
9CBF - SMC Left defective

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You can also diagnose using the in-dash error icon CC-ID codes:

Footwell Module
FRM 87 Right Rear Light Failure
FRM 88 Dipped Beam Left Failure
FRM 89 Dipped Beam Right Failure
FRM 111 Number Plate Light Left Failure
FRM 113 Sidelights Switched On
FRM 114 Rear Fog Light Failure
FRM 115 Reverse Light Right Failure
FRM 116 Indicator Rear Left Failure
FRM 117 Reverse Light Left Failure
FRM 118 Rear Light Right Failure
FRM 119 Indicator Front Right Failure
FRM 120 Dipped Beam Left Failure
FRM 121 Dipped Beam Right Failure
FRM 122 Indicator Front Right Failure
FRM 123 Rear Light Right Failure
FRM 124 Indicator Right Failure
FRM 125 Indicator Rear Right Failure
FRM 126 Fog Light Right Failure
FRM 127 Side Indicator Left Failure
FRM 128 Left High Beam Failure
FRM 129 Rear Fog Light Failure
FRM 130 Right High Beam Failure
FRM 131 Parking Light Left Front Failure
FRM 132 Front Right Side Light Failure
FRM 133 Right Rear Light Failure
FRM 134 Right Brake Light Failure
FRM 135 Centre Brake Light Failure
FRM 136 Left Brake Light Failure
FRM 137 Number Plate Light Right Failure
FRM 138 Fog Light Left Failure
FRM 196 Indicator Front Right Failure
FRM 197 Indicator Front Left Failure
FRM 231 Light System Failure
FRM 256 Headlight Leveling System Failure
FRM 259 Window Anti-Trap Deactivated
FRM 261 Window Anti-Trap Failure
FRM 345 Brake/Tail Light Failure Right
FRM 346 Brake/Tail Light Failure Left
FRM 371 Number Plate Light Failure
FRM 372 Brake Force Display Light Failure Left
FRM 373 Brake Force Display Light Failure Right
FRM 378 Sidelight/Daytime Lights Defective- Left
FRM 379 Sidelight/Daytime Lights Defective- Right
FRM 380 Turn Signal Lights Defective- Left
FRM 381 Turn Signal Lights Defective- Right
FRM/ALC 295 Adaptive Cornering Lights Failure
FRM 437 Parking Lights On
FRM 490 Parking Assist Failure, Parking Assist Aborted

Complete list of CC-ID codes:
http://www.endtuning.com/ccidcodes/

MONEY $AVER:
Buy the ballast and module from eBay (used OEM not aftermarket). Not worth buying new. You can get a ballast for $50, and control unit will cost you approximately the same:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-2008-201...xT7EgL&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bmw-1-series...FWJSj3&vxp=mtr

[smrtypants44]

I bet it's a bad ballast, but you need to pull the light completely out of the car to replace that. Or maybe the original ballast is missing or just disconnected? Like Dackelone saide, the PO likely swapped to an LED AE set up, which has it's own ballasts installed inside the headlamp housing (rather than underneath the headlamp like the much larger OEM ballast). I think that's what that pink/purple thing is - wonder where the PO got that from? I'm not super-familiar with the aftermarket headlamp "upgrades," but I've never seen any that looked like that.

The ballast under the headlights is for the HID main beam (low+high). The aftermarket resistors is for the LED bulbs installed in the DRL rings (Angel Eyes). LED bulbs dont draw as much voltage as the incandescent rings in the headlights, so the resistors are there to fool the car into thinking the incandescent bulbs are on by drawing OEM level voltage. Without the resistors you would have a bulb out message if you replaced the incandescent bulbs in the angel eyes for LEDs.

[hungrybreadbutterhustle]

Ok. I'm admittedly a dumbass — when I originally checked the Adaptive Headlights (by standing in front and having somebody start up the car), I didn't have the headlight switch on A. I just re-checked it with the switch in the proper position and the working, driver's side does its centering, self-check process.

I just ordered a new ballast and module so I'm hoping that will fix it. I'll update here with any changes.

[hungrybreadbutterhustle]

For future searches:

These are the two errors I see in the nav when I first start the car:
△ Right low beam malfunction!
△ Adaptive headlights!

Adaptive Headlight Icon: CC-ID 295 = FRM/ALC 295 Adaptive Cornering Lights Failure
Headlight Beam Icon: CC-ID 121 = FRM 121 Dipped Beam Right Failure