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      04-06-2017, 03:00 AM   #23
ccfj1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
can you upload a pic of your amp connectors?
Also a pic of the part number label please.
Part number is 7841379

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?q=7841379



cheers
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      04-09-2017, 04:31 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccfj1 View Post
If the 4 pins are present in the most socket i would imagine that yes you would need to bridge the 2 i mentioned earlier.

I would try to install it without it first though, and if it doesn't work, add the jumper in.
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      04-11-2017, 05:06 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
If the 4 pins are present in the most socket i would imagine that yes you would need to bridge the 2 i mentioned earlier.
Yes, it has the 2xmost and 4x pins.

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I would try to install it without it first though, and if it doesn't work, add the jumper in.
Perfect mate, I'll try that.
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      04-11-2017, 05:08 AM   #26
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Pic of the lable

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      04-28-2020, 09:11 PM   #27
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Hi guys.
Just installed the individual audio amp in my E90, replacing the L7 setup.
Just wondering about this wire:



The 4-pin wire in the same connector as the MOST optical bus.
How did you guys find out about shorting pins 1 and 2?

Looking at pics of other cars with this setup from the factory, seems that only pin 1 is connected, via a red/back wire.
So far no amount of searching in TIS seems to indicate this wire exists.

Could it be a remote turn-on wire? or a vehicle speed-related wire?
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      04-29-2020, 03:30 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GtiGyver View Post
Hi guys.
Just installed the individual audio amp in my E90, replacing the L7 setup.
Just wondering about this wire:



The 4-pin wire in the same connector as the MOST optical bus.
How did you guys find out about shorting pins 1 and 2?

Looking at pics of other cars with this setup from the factory, seems that only pin 1 is connected, via a red/back wire.
So far no amount of searching in TIS seems to indicate this wire exists.

Could it be a remote turn-on wire? or a vehicle speed-related wire?
the 4 pin plug as 1 and 2 jumpered, this acts as a remote turn on (from the fibre connection
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      04-29-2020, 07:19 AM   #29
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Thanks ccfj1. Thats just the part that doesn't make sense. I mean, I know that it works to do so, I've tried it and it works, BUT cars that have this audio setup don't use a jumper.
They only have pin 1 wired.

Seems that what really needs to be done would be to use the power from the same pin 1 on the same connector (shared with the MOST optical bus) from the CD changer (X18180).


The reason being that the AMP, when powered by the higher power 2-pin connector has permanent power. If you short the pins 1-2 on the 4pin connector, the AMP is at very least partially ALWAYS powered.
Sure the MOST bus contains the remote AMP power on command, but how would the amp read the MOST bus without power to its MOST circuitry.
This is where pin1 of the 4pin connector comes into play. If connected to the same pin on the CD changer connector, it is connected to the 30g power bus. It only receives power when needed.

Hope what I'm saying makes sense.

Last edited by GtiGyver; 04-29-2020 at 07:27 AM..
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      04-29-2020, 07:58 AM   #30
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Well when i did mine (base stereo to Ind), my amp was powered from the 20pin connector (same as the speaker wires).

My amp is powered all the time.

The 2nd 2pin power plug is just that main power.

The 4pin must be 1+2 (no power, jumpered).

The fibre Most lead provides the canbus power on signal that switches the relays inside the amp, the amp is powered all the time, but it sitting there waiting for power on (bit like a tv in standby mode).

Basically, it uses CanBus ARID 0x130 wakeup, and wakes up and powers the amp and makes it ready.

Radio will wakup and power on with

ARID 0x130 40 (wake with no key, as in press volume button on to play stereo).

ARID 0x130 41 (key in, stage 1), ARID 0x130 45 (key in stage 2).
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      04-29-2020, 08:45 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccfj1 View Post
Well when i did mine (base stereo to Ind), my amp was powered from the 20pin connector (same as the speaker wires).

My amp is powered all the time.

The 2nd 2pin power plug is just that main power.

The 4pin must be 1+2 (no power, jumpered).

The fibre Most lead provides the canbus power on signal that switches the relays inside the amp, the amp is powered all the time, but it sitting there waiting for power on (bit like a tv in standby mode).

Basically, it uses CanBus ARID 0x130 wakeup, and wakes up and powers the amp and makes it ready.

Radio will wakup and power on with

ARID 0x130 40 (wake with no key, as in press volume button on to play stereo).

ARID 0x130 41 (key in, stage 1), ARID 0x130 45 (key in stage 2).
Yup, that's what I'm thinking as well. My only worry is that since my car is in storage in the winter, I would rather implement the additional power cut of the CANBUS interface in the amp using the power switch from the CD changer power source.
I'll let you know.

BTW, what does ARID stand for? I'm assuming it is a direct equivalent to CANBUS message IDs?
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      04-29-2020, 09:11 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GtiGyver View Post
Yup, that's what I'm thinking as well. My only worry is that since my car is in storage in the winter, I would rather implement the additional power cut of the CANBUS interface in the amp using the power switch from the CD changer power source.
If you are worried about it, just disconnect the power lead to the amp.

When i installed mine, i used a 55Amp trip switch/relay, and if needed i can disconnect the amp from the car.

Quote:
I'll let you know.
Ok

Quote:
BTW, what does ARID stand for? I'm assuming it is a direct equivalent to CANBUS message IDs?
ARbitration ID, basically yes its the canbus message ID.
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      07-05-2020, 06:34 PM   #33
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Hi guys, I need your help. Just finished retrofitting 677 into my e70 which came with base audio system and CIC from factory. Managed to code the car and sound is ok but my problem are chime/gong/Bluetooth or navigation voice. Volume on those is very very soft and yes I put everything on max from menu. Does anyone have a clue how to fix this? I wonder if I manage to find someone with Icom to update amp module would that fix it? Car is 2009 and CIC has been updated around 2011 but apparently the amp is 2007 update and maybe the donor car had CCC judging after the manufacture year.Any help is greatly appreciated 🙏
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      03-04-2022, 06:09 AM   #34
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IA Install

hi, I'm looking to do this. Did it not power up with the power and ground from the main wiring loom? If not, did you remove these wires before running the separate power and ground feeds from the battery?
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      09-04-2022, 03:56 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GtiGyver View Post
Yup, that's what I'm thinking as well. My only worry is that since my car is in storage in the winter, I would rather implement the additional power cut of the CANBUS interface in the amp using the power switch from the CD changer power source.
I'll let you know.

BTW, what does ARID stand for? I'm assuming it is a direct equivalent to CANBUS message IDs?
I just replaced my Logic 7 amp to individual on my 08 CCC 135i everything was plug and play except I had to bridge pin 1 and 2 for the amp to turn on. Now amp is on no sound, my current audio 677 do I have to code it to 752?
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      09-24-2022, 12:45 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
.
6. Coding - Remove your old audio system option number from the vehicle order and replace with $752 and recode CIC
Can you give some detail on the coding portion ? Did you just add the $752 option to the Véhicule Order or did you have to recode some module as well?

Also do you remember wich module you had to add the $752 VO?

Thanks!
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      06-07-2023, 11:04 AM   #37
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retrofitting e89 from the basic stereo to the 676 hi-fi

Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
Aaaaaannnnnnndddddd.....Installed!

Process was quite simple, but i was missing one piece of information that stifled the whole process because this particular amp is only available on M Cars. The secret was that Pins 1 + 2 in the MOST fibre optic connector on the amp needed to be bridged with a jumper cable. This got the amp to turn on.


Basic process:

1. Power - Using the 2 pin connector for power, positive 12V fused was wired off battery and grounded at a ground point in the boot. Pin 1 is positive, pin 2 is negative.
2. MOST jumper - bridge the top two pins in the MOST socket with a jumper wire.
3. Add to most loop - I salvaged some MOST fibre optic wiring from an old e90 at a wreckers and added it to the MOST distribution block, which in my car, was under the left rear passenger seat bolster.
4. Wiring speakers - pretty straight forward - i got a 20 pin connector off ebay and looked up the pin outputs on an online WDS, then i made a wiring harness to run to the speaker junction at the underseat subs (My car was a base stereo model and the underseat subs connect to the door speakers) as well as the rear speakers
5. Install speakers - Replace all speakers with EPS/Individual audio speakers as they have different ohm ratings.
6. Coding - Remove your old audio system option number from the vehicle order and replace with $752 and recode CIC

...3 months later...

Done and it sounds amazing

I just need to get the appropriate boot liner trim and bracket to tidy it up.

Hello there,
sorry to bring this topic up again and also for the z4 but I have not found anyone who has done something like this. This thread is the closest I have found. Basically I have the basic system in BLUE and I want to upgrade to the YELLOW. I was wondering if you could give clarity to 3 points:
1) if the amplifier I am using does have the MOST, I do not really see it but can you confirm. attached pictures
2) how I would connect the amplifier it to the head unit CIC.
3) also if you can give more clarity as to how you change the $676 code for the order, and what is the recoding you do on the CIC?
Attached Images
   

Last edited by MaxSheperd; 06-07-2023 at 11:06 AM.. Reason: forgot picture
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      06-24-2023, 01:31 PM   #38
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Hi guys, I have 2008 135i with CCC, factory logic 7 amp getting replaced with top hifi with dsp amplifier from 2017 bmw m6, everything was plug and play except I had to jump pin 1 and 2 to get it powered on. Coded the vehicle from 677 to 677 then to 752, has no sound any ideas?
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