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      03-23-2015, 02:50 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swagon View Post
Sooo, updates?
Thanks for the reminder.

After a few weeks. Fender to bottom of wheel:
Front = Before: 23.25"; After: 22.25"; Diff: -1"
Rear = Before:23.125"; After:22.25; Diff: -7/8"
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      04-27-2015, 08:40 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dilmorecg View Post
Thanks for the reminder.

After a few weeks. Fender to bottom of wheel:
Front = Before: 23.25"; After: 22.25"; Diff: -1"
Rear = Before:23.125"; After:22.25; Diff: -7/8"
Swift/koni yellow combo were installed 4 days ago, I am hoping the rear settles a bit and the front does not... Did anyone notice some initial rake when installing the swift spec-r? One of the main reasons I purchased these springs was reduced rake compared to Eibach/H&R.

Unfortunately I did not measure before the install. Is it possible that I might have a different stock ride height?

Fender to bottom of wheel:
Front Left: 22.125
Front Right: 22.0
Rear Right: 22.625
Rear Left: 22.625

Does anyone else mind measuring for reference?
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      04-27-2015, 09:03 PM   #47
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Don't have measurements but my car has a slight rake as well. Swift spec r with bilstein b8's. I bought the spec r's because they are supposed to have an even drop, but they dont unfortunately. It's very slight, but it's there.
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      04-27-2015, 10:26 PM   #48
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I added dinan camber plates which supposedly ad 1/4" height up front. This made for a very even drop. I'll measure soon but just thought I'd chime in!
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      04-27-2015, 10:46 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135TX View Post
I added dinan camber plates which supposedly ad 1/4" height up front. This made for a very even drop. I'll measure soon but just thought I'd chime in!
I forgot to say I have dinan camber plates installed as well. Still have a slight rake though.
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      04-27-2015, 10:49 PM   #50
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I'm in Swift spec-R springs., Bilstein B8 dampers, and Ground control camber plates as well. I have a slight rake too. The previous poster who is using Dinan fixed camber plates which probably adds ~1/2 inch to the stack, so probably evens out front with rear height.

Last edited by dcaron9999; 04-28-2015 at 06:51 AM..
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      04-27-2015, 11:33 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
I'm in Swift spec-R springs., Bilstein B8 dampers, and Ground control camber plates as well. I have a slight rake too. The previous poster who is using Dinan fixed camber plates add almost 1/2 inch to the stack so evens out with the rear.
I'm pretty sure it's only a 1/4" definitely not 1/2" though.

You guys got me curious . So I measured and its
22.25" front
22.5" rear

So I'll be dammed, it does have rake...

would be ~22" flat without the Dinan plates up front.

dcaron9999 How does the ground control plate affect ride height? I'm actually looking for more camber and may go with those or vorschlag..
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Last edited by 135TX; 04-27-2015 at 11:38 PM..
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      04-28-2015, 07:34 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135TX View Post
I'm pretty sure it's only a 1/4" definitely not 1/2" though.

You guys got me curious . So I measured and its
22.25" front
22.5" rear

So I'll be dammed, it does have rake...

would be ~22" flat without the Dinan plates up front.

dcaron9999 How does the ground control plate affect ride height? I'm actually looking for more camber and may go with those or vorschlag..
So about 1/4 inch of rake for you then - not as bad as on stock OE stock mounts (70mm) or adjustable camber plates (44mm for GC plates).

The Swift Spec-R springs are not necessarily the culprit though. I would like to hear from people with stock dampers, matched up with Swift Spec-R springs.

One very simple thing that can be done to raise the height, for those willing to go that route is to do like our resident genious fe1rx member has experimented with. By displacing the small welded tab on the strut body downwards, or welding a new one below, this will result in the strut sitting higher in the knuckle.

See one of member fe1rx's specific post related to stack height here ---> http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=97
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      04-28-2015, 08:07 AM   #53
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I have the Spec-R/Koni/Dinan combo on my 128i and from the center of the roundel to the wheel arch I measure 325mm front and 322mm rear, so <1/8 inch negative rake but not really noticeable. Measured at the rocker panels the car still has a substantial positive rake, but I don't recall the number. The wheel gap is pretty darn even.

This was very much in line with what I calculated the drop to be before the install, taking in to consideration the weights and distribution of weight published by BMW and not accounting for any equipment differences.

During the install I used all new parts including the rubber isolators and upper strut mounts (guide, support), and I installed 1M/M3 camber arms at the same time. Not sure how all that may have effected my results.
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      04-28-2015, 08:52 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suprgnat View Post
I have the Spec-R/Koni/Dinan combo on my 128i and from the center of the roundel to the wheel arch I measure 325mm front and 322mm rear, so <1/8 inch negative rake but not really noticeable. Measured at the rocker panels the car still has a substantial positive rake, but I don't recall the number. The wheel gap is pretty darn even.

This was very much in line with what I calculated the drop to be before the install, taking in to consideration the weights and distribution of weight published by BMW and not accounting for any equipment differences.

During the install I used all new parts including the rubber isolators and upper strut mounts (guide, support), and I installed 1M/M3 camber arms at the same time. Not sure how all that may have effected my results.
Spec-R/Bilstein B8/GC Street camber plates/Dinan rear shock mounts combo for me ...

... from the center of the roundel to the wheel arch: 310 mm front and 332 mm rear ...

... from fender to bottom of wheel: 21 15/16" and 22 3/4" inches ...
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      04-28-2015, 09:50 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Spec-R/Bilstein B8/GC Street camber plates/Dinan rear shock mounts combo for me ...

... from the center of the roundel to the wheel arch: 310 mm front and 332 mm rear ...

... from fender to bottom of wheel: 21 15/16" and 22 3/4" inches ...
22mm is a pretty substantial difference. Hmm... Could the stack height of the GC camber plates be that much different from stock?

BTW, to clarify my previous statement when I said "measured at the rocker panels" I meant from the rocker panels to the ground "the car still has a substantial positive rake".
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      04-28-2015, 09:57 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Spec-R/Bilstein B8/GC Street camber plates/Dinan rear shock mounts combo for me ...

... from the center of the roundel to the wheel arch: 310 mm front and 332 mm rear ...

... from fender to bottom of wheel: 21 15/16" and 22 3/4" inches ...
So you do have rake! Makes me feel better that I didn't get a bunk set of springs lol!

For everyone taking measurements, I believe the better way to measure is from the center of the roundel or wheel to the bottom of the fender. Since we all may be running different tire sizes, the height of the sidewall of the tire may throw off the measurement when measuring from the ground to the fender.
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      04-28-2015, 09:58 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suprgnat View Post
22mm is a pretty substantial difference. Hmm... Could the stack height of the GC camber plates be that much different from stock?

BTW, to clarify my previous statement when I said "measured at the rocker panels" I meant from the rocker panels to the ground "the car still has a substantial positive rake".
Yours has positive rake likely due to the lighter front end on the 128i.

I had my car (low optioned, manual seats, no seat heat)on the scales after the suspension was installed and it weighed 3260 with a 1/2 tank of gas and no one inside.

the distribution was 51% F 49% R.

I'm thinking of installing the BMS cowl removal filters to save 10 lbs and then have been looking at carbon hoods ( -~20 lbs).

I figure if I can pull 30lbs off the front the car will be better balanced.

BTW i measured from the top of the arch at the fender to the bottom of my wheel in my previous post.
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      04-28-2015, 10:03 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135TX View Post
Yours has positive rake likely due to the lighter front end on the 128i.

I had my car (low optioned, manual seats, no seat heat)on the scales after the suspension was installed and it weighed 3260 with a 1/2 tank of gas and no one inside.

the distribution was 51% F 49% R.

I'm thinking of installing the BMS cowl removal filters to save 10 lbs and then have been looking at carbon hoods ( -~20 lbs).

I figure if I can pull 30lbs off the front the car will be better balanced.

BTW i measured from the top of the arch at the fender to the bottom of my wheel in my previous post.
If his front end is lighter, wouldn't that mean he would have less rake since the front would be sitting higher?
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      04-28-2015, 10:03 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Spec-R/Bilstein B8/GC Street camber plates/Dinan rear shock mounts combo for me ...

... from the center of the roundel to the wheel arch: 310 mm front and 332 mm rear ...

... from fender to bottom of wheel: 21 15/16" and 22 3/4" inches ...
Aren't the GC camber plates significantly shorter than th OEM top hats though?
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      04-28-2015, 11:41 AM   #60
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rake should be measured from reference points off of the rocker or part of the chassis. The wheel arch opening isn't a good location to measure rake.
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      04-28-2015, 11:59 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
rake should be measured from reference points off of the rocker or part of the chassis. The wheel arch opening isn't a good location to measure rake.
Thanks Harold.

In my case, with Swift Spec-R springs, Bilsteins B8 dampers, GC Street camber plates, Dinan Rear Shock Mounts...

Front rocker panel ground clearance is 5" and rear is 5-7/8" ...

How does that look, and do you recommend welding a keyed tab on the strut tube to lessen the rake?

What Im aiming for is to lessen the front-rear rake (about +22mm in the rear) by displacing the small welded tab on the strut body downwards, or welding a new one below it, which will result in the strut sitting higher in the knuckle.

I found out that stock OE stock mounts are 70mm and GC camber plates are 44mm, so that is probably a large factor in the "slammed front".

I discussed above approach with a local shop who cannot guarantee he will not damage the strut with the high temperatures reached during the spot welding process. He wants me to sign a discharge before he does the work ...

Would really appreciate getting your feedback or alternative plan to above?

Thanks.
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      04-28-2015, 12:12 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Thanks Harold.
I discussed above approach with a local shop who cannot guarantee he will not damage the strut with the high temperatures reached during the spot welding process. He wants me to sign a discharge before he does the work ...
Interested in what Harold has to say, but..

I wonder if there's a collar you could put on the damper immediately under the tab to effectively raise it in the knuckle without having to weld.
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      04-28-2015, 12:14 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Thanks Harold.

In my case, with Swift Spec-R springs, Bilsteins B8 dampers, GC Street camber plates, Dinan Rear Shock Mounts...

Front rocker panel ground clearance is 5" and rear is 5-7/8" ...

How does that look, and do you recommend welding a keyed tab on the strut tube to lessen the rake?

What Im aiming for is to lessen the front-rear rake (about +22mm in the rear) by displacing the small welded tab on the strut body downwards, or welding a new one below it, which will result in the strut sitting higher in the knuckle.

I found out that stock OE stock mounts are 70mm and GC camber plates are 44mm, so that is probably a large factor in the "slammed front".

I discussed above approach with a local shop who cannot guarantee he will not damage the strut with the high temperatures reached during the spot welding process. He wants me to sign a discharge before he does the work ...

Would really appreciate getting your feedback or alternative plan to above?

Thanks.
In our experience as long as you stay within 1" of front rake you are okay.

I would be careful with the strut modification as the there is oil and gas inside the housing. By relocating the stop, you may have also alter how much the strut body is being secured by the knuckle.
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      04-28-2015, 12:15 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
rake should be measured from reference points off of the rocker or part of the chassis. The wheel arch opening isn't a good location to measure rake.
That's why I pointed out that I have correct (positive) rake at the rockers, but just a hair more fender gap (<1/8") at the front. I still may throw a 1.5mm (1/16") spacer in the rear spring perches to even things up.
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      04-28-2015, 12:20 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135TX View Post
Yours has positive rake likely due to the lighter front end on the 128i.
That and the Dinan camber plates. Without those my front would be <3mm lower than the rear.
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      04-28-2015, 12:32 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Interested in what Harold has to say, but..

I wonder if there's a collar you could put on the damper immediately under the tab to effectively raise it in the knuckle without having to weld.
That's what fe1rx did. Post #97
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...=956039&page=5
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