All COBB Tuning AccessPORT for 135i Discussion Here

[houtan]

Cobb, would it be possible to add the function to disable the 2C57 code: Charge-air pressure control, lower value: Boost pressure too low Boost?

I believe it's similar to the 30FF code on the N54. Under light throttle I get the code, which I believe also occurred on the N54. I believe you were able to add the feature to disable that code in the flash tune.

[Orpo]

Hey guys,
Does Cobb AP support a 2012 BMW 135i N55 MT?
Fingers crossed.
Thx

[mar778c]

Originally Posted by Orpo

Hey guys,
Does Cobb AP support a 2012 BMW 135i N55 MT?
Fingers crossed.
Thx

Call Cobb with your VIN and they can tell you. Some 2012's are supported.

[tuj]

sounds like all the 2013 cars are not supported??

EDIT: Just heard from Cobb. They have no plans to support the 2013 cars. So sad...

[Faulal]

Can I please ask for help from Cobb Tuning or someone to review my logs and tell me if logs are normal?

It looks like I have a decent amount of timing corrections on the E30 Map and I'm not hitting the boost target.
I can't tell if I have a fueling issue, I hope I recorded the proper measurements?

I have a 135i manual with FBOs, I was running 4 gallons of E85 with the rest 91 octane.
I did 2 runs on the standard Cobb E30 map and one on the aggressive map.

http://datazap.me/u/faulal/9-25-15-e...og=0&data=1-20

http://datazap.me/u/faulal/10-11-15-...og=0&data=2-21

http://datazap.me/u/faulal/11-11-15-...og=0&data=2-21

Thank you for the help, I'm new to logging.

[scythe1969]

I would definitely check with Cobb, as I did before thinking about getting the AP. As a rule of thumb, my car is a 2012, but it's manufacture date is 5/31/2011. Turns out my car is supported and I got a great deal on a APv2. My first suggestion would be to look your car up in the VIN Decoder (http://bimmer.work/) and check.

If you manage to find a local sale, connecting the unit to the car and having it try to identify the model will be a good test to see if it will work.

I got lucky in that I didn't have to have the dealer do any changes to the ECU...

[boostm3]

Originally Posted by scythe1969

I would definitely check with Cobb, as I did before thinking about getting the AP. As a rule of thumb, my car is a 2012, but it's manufacture date is 5/31/2011. Turns out my car is supported and I got a great deal on a APv2. My first suggestion would be to look your car up in the VIN Decoder (http://bimmer.work/) and check.

If you manage to find a local sale, connecting the unit to the car and having it try to identify the model will be a good test to see if it will work.

I got lucky in that I didn't have to have the dealer do any changes to the ECU...

What exactly are we supposed to be looking for from decoding our vin? Is it the production date? Is there any way to tell from last 7 digits of our vin whether weve got one of the two unsupported Roms? During my last service a year ago, the dealer installed new software which had the unpleasant effect of introducing the nasty throttle delay which so many have lamented... So I dont know if they upgraded the rom at that point or whether I still have the original, or whether Cobb supports what Ive got.. Guess the only way to know is to order it and try...

[scythe1969]

Yeah, the VIN decoder will get you a 'ballpark' idea as to whether the car is supported at all. A production date in 2011 is a good start and by the looks of your sig, you'll definitely have a better chance than I did.

I've searched through many threads here and other places and it seems that only a trip to the dealer will get you the specific software version running on your car. It's nothing you can pull up via a code reader or in the iDrive module (if so equipped).

When I purchased mine two nights ago, I asked the seller if he wouldn't mind hooking up the AP to my car to see if it supported it before we completed the purchase. He was accommodating and I was lucky enough to have the AP recognize my car as having the 98G0B ROM.

The only way to tell for sure is to try one out on your car before purchase. You'll know within 30 seconds of connecting the AP. Good luck!

[boostm3]

Originally Posted by scythe1969

Yeah, the VIN decoder will get you a 'ballpark' idea as to whether the car is supported at all. A production date in 2011 is a good start and by the looks of your sig, you'll definitely have a better chance than I did.

I've searched through many threads here and other places and it seems that only a trip to the dealer will get you the specific software version running on your car. It's nothing you can pull up via a code reader or in the iDrive module (if so equipped).

When I purchased mine two nights ago, I asked the seller if he wouldn't mind hooking up the AP to my car to see if it supported it before we completed the purchase. He was accommodating and I was lucky enough to have the AP recognize my car as having the 98G0B ROM.

The only way to tell for sure is to try one out on your car before purchase. You'll know within 30 seconds of connecting the AP. Good luck!

Thanks for the info.. I hadnt considered buying from a brick and morter dealer... But if theyre amenable to hooking up first to check the rom, that sounds like a good idea.. Did yours honor any promotional pricing offered by Cobb on their web site? Isnt AP V3 the latest? Why did you get V2 instead? Differences?

Thanks again..

[CGMike]

One thing I do not like with the Cobb AP is the lack of adjustability. I know they have OTS maps but it would be nice be able to lower the boost by a couple PSI or adjust the timing slightly if youre getting knock. Not all cars are identical and being able to lower the boost or timing would help prevent some cars from messing anything up. Just my opinion, for the price there should be more adjustability or more free maps available.

[houtan]

Originally Posted by CGMike

One thing I do not like with the Cobb AP is the lack of adjustability. I know they have OTS maps but it would be nice be able to lower the boost by a couple PSI or adjust the timing slightly if youre getting knock. Not all cars are identical and being able to lower the boost or timing would help prevent some cars from messing anything up. Just my opinion, for the price there should be more adjustability or more free maps available.

As far as I know, all the parameters you mention are adjustable. You just need cobb's access tuner race (atr) and then learn how the adjustments are made. The software is free from Cobb, you just have to request it on their website.

[CGMike]

Originally Posted by houtan

As far as I know, all the parameters you mention are adjustable. You just need cobb's access tuner race (atr) and then learn how the adjustments are made. The software is free from Cobb, you just have to request it on their website.

this I did not know! thank you! I will look around cobbs site and see if I can find it or a way to ask for it. Thanks!!

[scythe1969]

I bought mine from a fellow board member that turned out to be local to my area. I was on the lookout for a V2 just because an online vendor suggested that if you were just going to flash the ROM and leave the AP at home, V2 would be a better bargain. The two units do the same job, V3 just has a host of cool features I wasn't going to use. My first objective was to flash the car and then work on getting a custom tune.

[paranoidroid]

Originally Posted by houtan

Cobb, would it be possible to add the function to disable the 2C57 code: Charge-air pressure control, lower value: Boost pressure too low Boost?

I believe it's similar to the 30FF code on the N54. Under light throttle I get the code, which I believe also occurred on the N54. I believe you were able to add the feature to disable that code in the flash tune.

Yes, we really need this. Cobb please support this.

[tglazed]

So today my car just died on the highway in stop and go traffic. Wouldn't go, was idling but no response to the pedal. Turned the car on and off a couple times and finally pedals came back to life and I was able to putt the car home. I did notice two lights first was yellow coolant light then the next was a red coolant light, the same one that I got when my water pump died on my last 135i.

Got home and codes that were found via accessport are: P0171, P2096, P2BC0, P2BCB, P377A.

Mods: BMS intake, Catless downpipe, muffler delete.

The reason I posted in this thread is I am having trouble finding exactly what these codes mean which in turn are making it hard to diagnose what is going on. Any help would be appreciated.

[gap]

Originally Posted by tglazed

So today my car just died on the highway in stop and go traffic. Wouldn't go, was idling but no response to the pedal. Turned the car on and off a couple times and finally pedals came back to life and I was able to putt the car home. I did notice two lights first was yellow coolant light then the next was a red coolant light, the same one that I got when my water pump died on my last 135i.

Got home and codes that were found via accessport are: P0171, P2096, P2BC0, P2BCB, P377A.

Mods: BMS intake, Catless downpipe, muffler delete.

The reason I posted in this thread is I am having trouble finding exactly what these codes mean which in turn are making it hard to diagnose what is going on. Any help would be appreciated.

I am assuming this is a N55.
The first two codes were easy to find and are for the car running too lean.
Sounds like water pump problems too, a lot to go wrong at one time.
I can't find anything on the last three. If the car is running do a data log and look at the fuel pumps and fuel air ratios.
This is a good source for normal logging parameters.
www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21269

[tglazed]

Thanks for that. I went ahead and installed the oem intake, I have a feeling that is why I was getting lean codes. As for the other codes I'm stumped. I went ahead and cleared all codes and reset the ECU to see if it will replicate.

[houtan]

The last time Cobb responded to their own thread was March 2014. smh. Straight left us all hanging. Would not expect that from such a reputable company.

[jake1220]

Originally Posted by houtan

The last time Cobb responded to their own thread was March 2014. smh. Straight left us all hanging. Would not expect that from such a reputable company.

They don't seem to care about the N55 or BMWs anymore. Kinda sucks, but they have left our platform behind it looks like.

[MikeOrmsby]

In need of ATR. Bought a cobb off someone just as they took atr offline for revamping. If anyone has the program for N54 IJE0S let me know! Could really use some help getting it because these ots tunes are a little too conservative for my tuning needs lol

[thetyrant]

Has anyone got Accesstuner Race for the 98DOB rom ? I managed to get a copy of the folder from a user with different Rom and was able to dump it and run it on my PC, but as im on different Rom it wont load my maps, works fine on intended maps so I could do with version for my Rom.

Thanks

[all4bspinnin]

Originally Posted by Faulal

Can I please ask for help from Cobb Tuning or someone to review my logs and tell me if logs are normal?

It looks like I have a decent amount of timing corrections on the E30 Map and I'm not hitting the boost target.
I can't tell if I have a fueling issue, I hope I recorded the proper measurements?

I have a 135i manual with FBOs, I was running 4 gallons of E85 with the rest 91 octane.
I did 2 runs on the standard Cobb E30 map and one on the aggressive map.

http://datazap.me/u/faulal/9-25-15-e...og=0&data=1-20

http://datazap.me/u/faulal/10-11-15-...og=0&data=2-21

http://datazap.me/u/faulal/11-11-15-...og=0&data=2-21

Thank you for the help, I'm new to logging.

You need to meet with a protuner and have your maps adjusted. You're seeing corrections across multiple cylinders under heavy load.

Also, I wouldnt suggest running e85 on a 91 oct map. Its going to lean the car out. Save your e85 for your e30 map.

Make sure before running an e30 map, you start with a near completely empty tank. Add 70 gas then 30 perfect e85.