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      02-28-2017, 07:36 AM   #199
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Originally Posted by infinitekid2002 View Post
mighty mouse doesn't know about the secret mini micro filter for the elves that live in the glove box...
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      02-28-2017, 07:44 AM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WP1 View Post
Oh, this is the long rectangular filter in that panel. So, there is no "air filter" inside the glove box to replace?
No.
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      02-28-2017, 12:41 PM   #201
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Thanks,

WOW, so easy to change! and the dealer wanted around $180 to change it (including the $75 filter). I will do that and the engine filter this weekend.

Now, tell me why that Micro filter has to be changed with the brake fluid change? the dealer was telling me that both need to be done at the same time.
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      02-28-2017, 12:52 PM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WP1 View Post
Thanks,

WOW, so easy to change! and the dealer wanted around $180 to change it (including the $75 filter). I will do that and the engine filter this weekend.

Now, tell me why that Micro filter has to be changed with the brake fluid change? the dealer was telling me that both need to be done at the same time.
They are not connected(to each other) other than both should be changed every two years. Brake fluid absorbs water(humidity) in the air over time... the microfilter filters out the pollen in the air. IF you lived in a high pollen area - you could even need to change the filter every year. Also wiper blades as well.
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      03-29-2017, 07:54 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
IF you are going to change the spark plugs... you might also want to change the pollen filter too - while your in there. You have to remove the pollen filter tray to get the plastic (fake - outer) valve cover off to get at the coil packs/plugs.

Don't use any anti seize on spark plug threads. Change the plugs on a cold engine. Use a torque wrench with a low scale calibration: 23Nm

Before starting work... double check that you have the correct part number spark plugs. Quite a few people have gotten N54 plugs for a N55 motor. They are not interchangeable! Double check.

Also... you might want to have a new spare coil pack on hand... incase one of your old coils breaks when removing. I used a six inch 1/2" extension inside the coil's "loop" pull tab as I slowly pulled up on the coil. Go slow... some of those coils are really stuck into those "holes".

You can also use some dielectric grease(just a smidge) on the top of the plug where it snaps onto the coil pack. But I did not use any.

Also having some 6mm allens or 6mm hex 1/4 sockets or bits might help in removing that one rear hex bolt that holds the fake valve cover on. Also have one of those telescoping magnetic tools for finding anything you drop down into the belly pan.


And lastly... IF you can change your own oil... you can change your spark plugs. Its not hard.


Btw... its almost time for me to change my plugs again too. I just bought a set of six coil packs from Oembimmerparts.com for $176 for the set of six coils. Just FYI. I didn't get any kickbacks... I just thought it was a good price on OEM factory coils. Now I just need a warm day to go work on my car in the garage.

https://www.oembimmerparts.com/1-Ser...rts-s/2196.htm


Good Luck,
Dackel
I am going to change my plugs in next few days and bought the same $176 coil pack. Great deal! But do I really need to change my coils at 50,000 miles? Should I wait until my next plug change?

Thank you!

Peace... Mack
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      03-30-2017, 03:02 PM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackeroni View Post
I am going to change my plugs in next few days and bought the same $176 coil pack. Great deal! But do I really need to change my coils at 50,000 miles? Should I wait until my next plug change?

Thank you!

Peace... Mack
No, your coils should be still ok at 50K. But you will see... if any of the coils break(apart) when you remove them or IF you see any arch tracing from a leaking coil pack - then replace them. Since you already have them... I would just throw them in. Save your old coils... incase you need a spare in the future.

I normally park my car inside of a garage... but on a few winter days... when I parked outside... on cold starts... I noticed a miss fire or two, only on cold start and ONLY for the first few seconds after starting. No stored ecu codes though. So I am not sure IF it was the old plugs/coils(85K miles) or carbon buildup. Since then no problems... so when I change my plugs(in the near future) and coils(soon) I will see what the culprit is.

Dackel
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      08-06-2017, 05:01 PM   #205
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BMW quoted me $1000 to change coil packs and spark plugs for all 6.

Ordered the parts and the tools on Amazon for ~$300.
Took one hour and 20 minutes my first time doing this, and that includes also emptying the Burger Motorsports Oil Catch-can (which is hard as shit to unscrew - that right there probably took 15 minutes).

I'm not mechanically inclined and this was easy to do. I would urge anyone who is having problems with this and knows it to be their spark/plugs and coils to watch a few videos on YouTube, get it down in your brain, and just do it. It's not hard, and you will appreciate the work you've done.

The problems I was experiencing are now completely gone. Rough idle is now smooth. High idle of about 1000RPM is back down to about 600RPM. Hesitation on acceleration is gone and it feels like a new car again.

This post, write-up, and plethora of videos as greatly instrumental in me saving $700~$800.
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      08-07-2017, 03:33 PM   #206
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I recently replaced my spark plugs and coil packs on my 135i. I took this time to also replace the pollen filter and run some AC Klima cleaner down the evaporator. I forgot to take pics of that... but it was very simple... I just ran some Klima spray down the interior fan drum - on the passenger side. Once the pollen filter has been removed - the fan is exposed... I just ran the plastic hose down to the fan and ran the fan on HIGH.

Replace the spark plugs is fairly easy. I would suggest you get the special spark plug socket.

I went with a Mahle pollen filter and BMW-Bosch spark plugs bought at a local BMW dealer. I ordered my new coil packs from OEM Bimmerparts. I went with the Eldor coil packs since they are the OE brand that BMW uses.

https://www.oembimmerparts.com/BMW-1...7273ser1kt.htm

When I removed my old plugs I noticed some crud down in those holes... so I taped a 10mm fish tank hose to my vacuum cleaner and used a little non flammable(very important! when using with a vacuum cleaner!!) brake cleaner and suck'd away. You can see that most of the "crud" was gone.

It also helps to have a magnetic wand near by when removing those two rear 6mm hex(allen) screws that secure the pseudo valve cover. For some reason that left rear screw always manages to drop into never never land. Having a telescoping magnet can work wonders!

Also... use a 1/2 six in extension as leverage when removing the old coil packs from the "holes". Sometimes they can be really stubborn!


Here are my pics...

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      08-09-2017, 02:13 PM   #207
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How many miles on those plugs?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I recently replaced my spark plugs and coil packs on my 135i. I took this time to also replace the pollen filter and run some AC Klima cleaner down the evaporator. I forgot to take pics of that... but it was very simple... I just ran some Klima spray down the interior fan drum - on the passenger side. Once the pollen filter has been removed - the fan is exposed... I just ran the plastic hose down to the fan and ran the fan on HIGH.

Replace the spark plugs is fairly easy. I would suggest you get the special spark plug socket.

I went with a Mahle pollen filter and BMW-Bosch spark plugs bought at a local BMW dealer. I ordered my new coil packs from OEM Bimmerparts. I went with the Eldor coil packs since they are the OE brand that BMW uses.

https://www.oembimmerparts.com/BMW-1...7273ser1kt.htm

When I removed my old plugs I noticed some crud down in those holes... so I taped a 10mm fish tank hose to my vacuum cleaner and used a little non flammable(very important! when using with a vacuum cleaner!!) brake cleaner and suck'd away. You can see that most of the "crud" was gone.

It also helps to have a magnetic wand near by when removing those two rear 6mm hex(allen) screws that secure the pseudo valve cover. For some reason that left rear screw always manages to drop into never never land. Having a telescoping magnet can work wonders!

Also... use a 1/2 six in extension as leverage when removing the old coil packs from the "holes". Sometimes they can be really stubborn!
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      08-09-2017, 02:49 PM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
How many miles on those plugs?
I think around 50K miles. I know I should have replaced them sooner but LIFE just kept getting in the way. I also have a tune so I really went way too long on them.


One thing I noticed on my first test drive after the new plugs and coils... man does my PE now pop and crackle much more!! A sweet (good)side effect of changing ones worn out plugs.

Dackel
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      08-09-2017, 03:11 PM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
When I removed my old plugs I noticed some crud down in those holes... so I taped a 10mm fish tank hose to my vacuum cleaner and used a little non flammable(very important! when using with a vacuum cleaner!!)
Looks like you had some spare tubing from fixing your wind noise.

Don't you mean 13mm?
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      08-09-2017, 03:32 PM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Looks like you had some spare tubing from fixing your wind noise.

Don't you mean 13mm?
Yeah... that is what it was from. I couldn't remember the exact dia. Having some odd ends in one's tool box can come in handy every now and then!

Dackel
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      03-08-2018, 10:50 PM   #211
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Just did my new to me 135 with 75k this weekend. I used bosch coils and ngk iridium plugs gapped to .022 WOW! Noticeable difference in smoothness and starting speed. Thanks for the all the tips!
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      04-02-2018, 09:24 AM   #212
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A Couple of Questions:

So my car is just hitting 80k miles. I called my dealership, where I have had all service done up to this point (I have the extended maintenance plan, which expires in one month) and asked when/if my plugs and coils have been changed. My plugs were changed in December, but they said my coils have never been replaced.
What is the normal interval for coils? I thought around 50k, but apparently not?

I am considering trying out the MHD tune, and they recommend changing out the plugs and coils first and gapping the plugs to .022. Since my plugs were just done, they don't need replacing, but what is the stock gap? Isn't is around .025?
Do the plugs come preset to recommended OEM gap?

If I get the MHD and replace my coils, I can just re-gap the current plugs.

This should be fun - last time I changed my own plugs was on my '93 Saturn back in college over 20 years ago.
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      04-02-2018, 10:24 AM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k View Post
So my car is just hitting 80k miles. I called my dealership, where I have had all service done up to this point (I have the extended maintenance plan, which expires in one month) and asked when/if my plugs and coils have been changed. My plugs were changed in December, but they said my coils have never been replaced.
What is the normal interval for coils? I thought around 50k, but apparently not?

I am considering trying out the MHD tune, and they recommend changing out the plugs and coils first and gapping the plugs to .022. Since my plugs were just done, they don't need replacing, but what is the stock gap? Isn't is around .025?
Do the plugs come preset to recommended OEM gap?

If I get the MHD and replace my coils, I can just re-gap the current plugs.

This should be fun - last time I changed my own plugs was on my '93 Saturn back in college over 20 years ago.
I have the 2013 BMW 135is with the N55 and the stock gap on the Bosch plugs are 0.032. The Bosch plugs come pre-gapped, but it doesn't hurt to double-check if you can without damaging the plug (I used the blade-type gap tool.)

I changed my plugs out just a few days ago (37k miles) and the plugs that were in there may have been fairly new. All plugs were still gapped at 0.032 and looked very clean. The car still hesitates and stumbles when I have the HVAC on. I'm pretty sure it's just over-engineering with the computer trying to compensate for the HVAC system.

-Sam
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      04-03-2018, 04:35 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k View Post
So my car is just hitting 80k miles. I called my dealership, where I have had all service done up to this point (I have the extended maintenance plan, which expires in one month) and asked when/if my plugs and coils have been changed. My plugs were changed in December, but they said my coils have never been replaced.

What is the normal interval for coils? I thought around 50k, but apparently not?
Most people change them when they start to get misfires or when they get up around 85K miles.

I changed my coils out bc I was changing my spark plugs and it just made sense to do so.


Quote:
I am considering trying out the MHD tune, and they recommend changing out the plugs and coils first and gapping the plugs to .022. Since my plugs were just done, they don't need replacing, but what is the stock gap? Isn't is around .025?

Do the plugs come preset to recommended OEM gap?
Yes, factory plugs bought at a dealer come pre-gapped. It's pretty hard to change the gap bc the factory plugs are triple electrode and it's hard t get a gaping tool up inside the electrodes.

Here are my BMW dealer bought plugs... note now they say: "BMW - Bosch" and not just Bosch on them.
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New vs Old plugs...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamelCamel View Post
I have the 2013 BMW 135is with the N55 and the stock gap on the Bosch plugs are 0.032. The Bosch plugs come pre-gapped, but it doesn't hurt to double-check if you can without damaging the plug (I used the blade-type gap tool.)

I changed my plugs out just a few days ago (37k miles) and the plugs that were in there may have been fairly new. All plugs were still gapped at 0.032 and looked very clean. The car still hesitates and stumbles when I have the HVAC on. I'm pretty sure it's just over-engineering with the computer trying to compensate for the HVAC system.

-Sam
IS your car a DCT model ? That hesitation could be caused my the SW level. There is a pretty big thread on the DCT lag from a stop or roll... and a new SW flash seems to cure it.

Checkout zx10guy awesome thread on the DCT lag...

My DCT lag, idle issue, and lurching problems.
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1402323


and also check your battery coding...

DCT delay fixed
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1251909



Dackel
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      04-29-2018, 12:24 AM   #215
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Exclamation

You need to inspect the plugs before changing sometimes they are still in good condition,
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