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      07-01-2016, 09:42 PM   #133
ShocknAwe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkong View Post
So it's a noticeable/significant improvement? What percentage increase like 30%? My biggest worry is that the difference isn't big enough to warrant the $2,000 upgrade versus the koni/swift springs or its going to be super underwhelming (compared to the difference between like stock boost and map 5 e40 boost on the jb4). Haha Sorry for all the questions, I'm just getting cold feet with the install/committing LOL.
Something like a 40% increase in front spring rate alone. Can't comment on how it felt with Koni yellow/swift.
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      07-26-2016, 05:23 PM   #134
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Finally got my TC Kline S/A coilovers in with camber plates about two weeks ago. I'm holding out for a full review till I put more miles on the car. Car soaks up bumps way better now and the body roll is barely noticeable compared to my other set ups. Car feels like it can be pushed much more the n before I'm pleased so far.
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      07-26-2016, 05:30 PM   #135
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Wondering now if I should switch to camber plates. Have a set of Dinan static plates in my garage, but the stroke of the front piston has me thinking. Stack height of the Oe top hat and Dinan plates will be considerably greater than that of vorschlag or Tck plates.
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      07-26-2016, 10:06 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Wondering now if I should switch to camber plates. Have a set of Dinan static plates in my garage, but the stroke of the front piston has me thinking. Stack height of the Oe top hat and Dinan plates will be considerably greater than that of vorschlag or Tck plates.
I'm concerned about the same thing. I have 11 threads left from the bottom but my ride height is still pretty conservative. I am not very comfortably clearing an 245/35 on a 8.5 front either. I'll be switching to a real camber plate soon to make way for a more aggressive alignment and wider front wheel. Stack height on the dinan plate/stock top hat is nearly 3". You could cut that to one inch on a real camber plate.
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      07-28-2016, 09:45 AM   #137
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not sure how much the tc plates reduce the stack height, but it must be shorter than stock. with my 235/40 18s, I have about a one finger gap and I did not need to use a wheel spacer to clear my tire or wheel (8.5 et45). I could go a little lower and still clear. tc plates have been dead silent so far as well, really happy with them.
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      08-02-2016, 10:23 AM   #138
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Hello gents I went to adjust my coilovers last night, fronts were fine when I went to adjust rears I couldn't get them to budge. I didn't want to use excessive force so I'm holding off as of now. Am I missing something did anyone else have a hard time with the rears? These are the TC Kline S/A FYI.
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      08-02-2016, 10:38 AM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie1 View Post
Hello gents I went to adjust my coilovers last night, fronts were fine when I went to adjust rears I couldn't get them to budge. I didn't want to use excessive force so I'm holding off as of now. Am I missing something did anyone else have a hard time with the rears? These are the TC Kline S/A FYI.
The rears aren't designed to be adjusted with load on the perch. I learned this the hard way too. The first issue I ran into was there wasn't enough notches on the perch to get a full turn within the available space. So I turned with my hand until the perch hit the spring and then once under a little bit of load, the perch wouldn't budge. Contacted Harold and he told me they are not designed to be adjusted while on the car. Doh!! I was really annoyed, but that is partially my fault for not understanding the design.

Made sense after I thought about the design of the perch and how it is able to stay stationary even though there is no set screw on the rear perch. There is a lot of play between the perch and the spline it sits on when there is no load, then once the weight of the car hits the perch, the perch pushes up on the threads, and it wont budge.

So, for me, the way I adjusted the rear is working one side at a time, I removed the nut and washer on top of the shock (make sure you remove both because either one can fall into a black hole inside the rear quarter panel; learned that the hard way). Then, jack up the rear of the car from the diff until the shock drops far enough to allow the load to be removed from the spring, adjust the perch, then lower the car back down making sure the shaft of the shock is going back through the bushing. Roll the car back and forth a few times, confirm the height is where you want it, and reinstall the washer and nut. repeat for the other side. I guess you could do both at the same time, but I did one side at a time.
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      08-02-2016, 10:46 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
The rears aren't designed to be adjusted with load on the perch. I learned this the hard way too. The first issue I ran into was there wasn't enough notches on the perch to get a full turn within the available space. So I turned with my hand until the perch hit the spring and then once under a little bit of load, the perch wouldn't budge. Contacted Harold and he told me they are not designed to be adjusted while on the car. Doh!! I was really annoyed, but that is partially my fault for not understanding the design.

Made sense after I thought about the design of the perch and how it is able to stay stationary even though there is no set screw on the rear perch. There is a lot of play between the perch and the spline it sits on when there is no load, then once the weight of the car hits the perch, the perch pushes up on the threads, and it wont budge.

So, for me, the way I adjusted the rear is working one side at a time, I removed the nut and washer on top of the shock (make sure you remove both because either one can fall into a black hole inside the rear quarter panel; learned that the hard way). Then, jack up the rear of the car from the diff until the shock drops far enough to allow the load to be removed from the spring, adjust the perch, then lower the car back down making sure the shaft of the shock is going back through the bushing. Roll the car back and forth a few times, confirm the height is where you want it, and reinstall the washer and nut. repeat for the other side. I guess you could do both at the same time, but I did one side at a time.
Derp thanks for the help man appreciate it.
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      08-02-2016, 11:16 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie1 View Post
Hello gents I went to adjust my coilovers last night, fronts were fine when I went to adjust rears I couldn't get them to budge. I didn't want to use excessive force so I'm holding off as of now. Am I missing something did anyone else have a hard time with the rears? These are the TC Kline S/A FYI.
I just put the rear up, take the wheel off, push down on the hub and rotate the adjuster by hand.
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      08-02-2016, 02:18 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
I just put the rear up, take the wheel off, push down on the hub and rotate the adjuster by hand.
Thanks for the tips, I got it where I want, but now I have another issue as the rebound knobs on the rears won't budge the slightest. I contacted TC and they said make sure I'm not turning against the stop. I'm definitely not as they wont turn either way.
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      08-02-2016, 06:05 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie1 View Post
Thanks for the tips, I got it where I want, but now I have another issue as the rebound knobs on the rears won't budge the slightest. I contacted TC and they said make sure I'm not turning against the stop. I'm definitely not as they wont turn either way.
Do you know if they were sitting on full hard or full soft?
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      08-02-2016, 07:38 PM   #144
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while on the topic, what stiffness does everyone run these, especially for autocross? I feel like I should pump up the rear. They're on whatever setting they came out the box.
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      08-03-2016, 08:32 AM   #145
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Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Do you know if they were sitting on full hard or full soft?
It's weird the fronts were on full soft and rears full hard. I finally got it to budge went to hardware and picked up some liquid wrench sprayed a lil squirt on top waiting a min and it freed up. Fronts are 3/4 a turn off from full hard and rears are one turn off full hard. Happy I got it figured out
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      08-03-2016, 08:37 AM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drunkenup View Post
while on the topic, what stiffness does everyone run these, especially for autocross? I feel like I should pump up the rear. They're on whatever setting they came out the box.
Per TC, you do not want them to be sitting on fully soft or fully hard because the adjustment can seize. so if you are running at the setting they came to you, I would make sure they are not bottomed out on either end.

I have my SA front set at half a turn from fully soft.

I have my DA rear at 1/4 turn from fully soft on rebound, 4 clicks from fully soft on compression.

When I was at buttonwillow, I ran it this way and it was really good. I bumped up the rebound a couple more clicks just to see if I could feel a difference and I definitely could. The rear was a little more loose with the stiffer compression.
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      09-23-2016, 06:50 PM   #147
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Small update been enjoying the set up. The coilovers collars are smaller then my Catuned setup I had so I can run a smaller spaced up front(3mm vs old 10mm) with my bbs impuls that are 18x9 up front. Very pleased with the setup overall no complaints.
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