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      03-15-2017, 10:00 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwarren View Post
Did Road Atlanta last weekend and did not have any brake issues at all. Ran new PFC08s with Castrol SRF and freshly rebuilt caliper seals and boots. Never had a problem hauling down from 130+ on the back straight away into 10a!

I ended up doing the exact same brake duct set up you did. Thank you for all the photos!

Running RB pistons, PFC 08 pads, ECS F rotors, drilled/slotted R rotors, RBF 600 fluid, SS lines.

Only had a chance to get on track once last year at Autobahn Country Club in Joliet, IL. 19 turns for the full track, with my top speed 110+. Brakes performed flawlessly! Can not wait to test them at Road America this year.
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      03-15-2017, 10:54 PM   #68
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Thanks you to everyone for sharing their setup!

I think I will try to do this before I hit the track this season (along with the F30 brakes). I think my target would be to go with the NACA ducts, and see what I can do about routing them as best as possible so they don't rub... or at least allow for a connection in the wheel housing that can easily be installed/removed at the track.
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      03-16-2017, 07:49 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mernardi View Post
I ended up doing the exact same brake duct set up you did. Thank you for all the photos!

Running RB pistons, PFC 08 pads, ECS F rotors, drilled/slotted R rotors, RBF 600 fluid, SS lines.

Only had a chance to get on track once last year at Autobahn Country Club in Joliet, IL. 19 turns for the full track, with my top speed 110+. Brakes performed flawlessly! Can not wait to test them at Road America this year.
let's see it!
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      03-16-2017, 08:13 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwarren View Post
let's see it!
+1!! More pictures the better!
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      03-16-2017, 08:59 AM   #71
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My bumper has since been re-painted lol.


View post on imgur.com
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      03-16-2017, 10:04 AM   #72
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My bumper has since been re-painted lol.


View post on imgur.com
nice. How have the ducts survived? I did that routing once and they were all squished to hell.
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      03-16-2017, 11:56 AM   #73
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To the eye, the hoses look ok. Still have retained their shape. Once I have the car up on a lift/wheels off I will check for damage. Thankfully the hose isn't terribly expensive and is quite easy to swap.
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      03-16-2017, 03:05 PM   #74
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What are your impressions of the PFC 08 pads? I am considering those, but am leaning more towards the PFC Z rated pads as I daily my car and wasn't sure about the noise on the 08 pads.
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      03-19-2017, 04:26 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwarren
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mernardi View Post
My bumper has since been re-painted lol.


View post on imgur.com
nice. How have the ducts survived? I did that routing once and they were all squished to hell.
love the naca duct setup.

do you still only run the ducts on track or have you sorted out a way to stop them from rubbing?
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      03-20-2017, 01:34 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackLizard View Post
What are your impressions of the PFC 08 pads? I am considering those, but am leaning more towards the PFC Z rated pads as I daily my car and wasn't sure about the noise on the 08 pads.
Mine are incredibly squeaky at low speed. They are great on track though.

I do run the ducting daily. I will get a picture of how they have held up once I put my summer wheels back on.
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      03-20-2017, 08:35 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mernardi View Post
Mine are incredibly squeaky at low speed. They are great on track though.

I do run the ducting daily. I will get a picture of how they have held up once I put my summer wheels back on.
Thanks! That's what I figured, but wanted to ask.
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      03-21-2017, 08:44 AM   #78
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Quote:
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What are your impressions of the PFC 08 pads? I am considering those, but am leaning more towards the PFC Z rated pads as I daily my car and wasn't sure about the noise on the 08 pads.
I only run PFC08s on the track. I run OEM pads on the street. I wouldn't run PFC08s daily. Too much noise/dust, poor cold friction, and too expensive to waste on the street!
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      03-29-2017, 12:38 PM   #79
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Here's a few pics of how the ducting has held up. IMO not too shabby.

View post on imgur.com
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      03-29-2017, 12:47 PM   #80
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Doesn't look bad at all. How many miles?
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      03-29-2017, 05:07 PM   #81
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Doesn't look bad at all. How many miles?
Unsure of the exact mileage. They were installed end of August 2016. The pictures were taken 3/24. They have seen one HPDE, and have been daily driven in the Chicago winter. I will reevaluate them after my next HPDE. Based on the current wear though, I would expect to have to replace the ducting once a year as routine maintenance.
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      07-14-2017, 03:40 PM   #82
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I did want to update. At first I tried to go the naca duct route. Bought the same small ones from Pegasus that the 3 series guy ran. However after removing the panels I realized there is no way that will work in a 1 series. Anywhere in that undertray and they will make contact with some other part.

So I finally had enough and just made my own. They replace the factory 135 "duct" (that just blows air at the tire cross section). So they take air from thr bumper mount up to the factory locations as well as interface to the other ductwork at the bumper. The outlet of the duct comes out in the inner wheel well (right by the front control arm to chassis mount) and is a 2.5" connection.

Then at the backing plate I designed a custom flange to channel as much air as possible to the hat (center of the rotor). I purchased those air craft spruce aluminum flanges however if you use them the vast majority of the air blows at the back of the rotor face. While that helps it's not as effective as channeling it to the center of the rotor. I use the longer route for the flexible hose. Ie. It goes back and over the lower control arm up then back up and around to connect to the heat shield flange. Doing it this way ensures that there is always low stress on the duct work from the hose from lock to lock. Also due to where my duct work goes there is no rubbing anywhere so I plan to run it all the time, street and track.

The only thing I am unsure of is the robustness of the flange at the heatsheild. I wanted to instrument the backing plate and take some measurements but figured it's just easier to try it and see how it holds up. My suspicion is it will probably be okay, the material is polycarbonate which has a service temperature around 250*F. The backing plate doesn't get nearly as hot as the rotor and of course the entire purpose of a brake duct is to have cool air flowing through it. We will see as this weekend I have a 2 days of track time









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Edit: looks like Mernardi did manage to get the naca ducts to work. Looks like you have to actually span the underbody that and the inspection plate. In any case good work I couldn't manage to get it to work.

Last edited by WhatsADSM; 07-14-2017 at 04:28 PM..
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      07-14-2017, 07:35 PM   #83
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Those ducts look awesome. Any. Ore info on how you made them? Also any pictures of everything connected?
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      07-15-2017, 03:03 PM   #84
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WhatsADSM. Those ducts looks amazing. Looks just as good if not better then stock. Pretty sure it's 3d printed. Can the stock fender lining still be installed in no problem? I guess I just use a hose to connect the two ports. Those looks professionally made. Well done
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      07-16-2017, 11:21 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Those ducts look awesome. Any. Ore info on how you made them? Also any pictures of everything connected?
I CADed them up basically, and printed them with my printer. It took quite a few iterations (well over 10) to get just right. To the point where it mated up with the stock mounting points as well as covered the bumper well and mates with the "other" duct on each side (i.e. a blank duct on the driver side and the oil cooler duct on the passenger side). The outlet sneaks toward the center of the car to avoid the front wheel well all together. That allows you to run them without any rubbing.

See pic below for everything installed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmak View Post
WhatsADSM. Those ducts looks amazing. Looks just as good if not better then stock. Pretty sure it's 3d printed. Can the stock fender lining still be installed in no problem? I guess I just use a hose to connect the two ports. Those looks professionally made. Well done
Yup they are printed, and they use a piece of brake/engine ducting to connect the plastic "air catcher duct" at the front bumper with the "distributor duct" at the heat/dust shield. No matter what you would need something flexible there since the wheel is moving, in many axis relative to the chassis, within the wheel well.

And yes the stock wheel well stays installed so that everything is properly protected from the elements.

Here are some pics I took just before I took off my R-Comps and put the street tires back on after my 2 day track weekend.



up load pictures

The brakes all around performed flawlessly (I wish I could say the same for the rest of the cooling but that's another story). My brake setup consists of 340mm F30 335i front brake swap, stoptech lines all around, PFC08 pads all around, Castrol SRF, and my brake ducts. Pretty amazing because it's such a simple setup that I paid so little for yet it really does rival my 380mm 6-Pot + 355mm 4-Pot Stoptech setup I had on my modified E90 M3! I just ran them lap after lap and they just never gave up... And I am known to be very aggressive with my braking (Running on R-comps with other suspension and power mods in the advanced group). I tend to out brake just about everyone on track and use it as a weapon. I brake late, hard, and do a lot of trailbraking so I rely on brakes heavily for performance and consistency.

Last edited by WhatsADSM; 07-17-2017 at 12:39 PM..
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      07-27-2017, 09:55 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mernardi View Post
I ended up doing the exact same brake duct set up you did. Thank you for all the photos!

Running RB pistons, PFC 08 pads, ECS F rotors, drilled/slotted R rotors, RBF 600 fluid, SS lines.

Only had a chance to get on track once last year at Autobahn Country Club in Joliet, IL. 19 turns for the full track, with my top speed 110+. Brakes performed flawlessly! Can not wait to test them at Road America this year.
My ghetto brake ducts:

* $25 2.5" shop vac hose kit
* 2x $5 shop vac large scoop attachments

PFC-08 compound and RBF600 fluid.

I'd write up a DIY, but people don't seem to like to see cheap stuff like this... All I did was cut the shop vac hose in half and trim the attachments down to fit my bumper. I then used large snips to cut out a hole in the heat shield for the hose to sit. I could have taken the heat shield off and made cut-out seamless, but I didn't feel like it was worth the extra effort. I just cut my heat shield right down the middle and then snipped out the 2.5" hole. Took all of about 15minutes lol



I think in the future I will use these ghetto ducts to cool the engine bay. I will relocate the stock brake duct opening in the bumper like others have done to vent to an actual brake duct.

Last edited by bNks334; 08-24-2017 at 10:56 AM..
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      08-23-2017, 10:04 PM   #87
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They are pricey, but I wonder if these will work on the 135 also, so you can effectively use 3" ducting?

http://www.hardmotorsport.com/hard-m...-duct-bmw-e9x/
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      08-23-2017, 10:52 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
They are pricey, but I wonder if these will work on the 135 also, so you can effectively use 3" ducting?

http://www.hardmotorsport.com/hard-m...-duct-bmw-e9x/
Where that would actually mount to? How is it collecting air exactly? Also FWIW while the outlets may be 3" I can't imagine that flows any better than a 2" or 2.5" pipe just based on design, it necks down considerably and looks like it flows into a pretty nasty 180 degree "turn".

FWIW I'm trying to get through some more testing of my duct solution and once I do I will sell my primary ducts for cheaper than that as well.
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