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      09-06-2015, 12:30 PM   #23
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Depends what you want from the car, for a daily, KW's are tough to beat. Spring rates aren't good for a motorsports applications out of the box, which to an extent is also true with the Ohlins. However, for both of those options, the dampers are phenomenal. The KW V3 damper has serious motorsport pedigree.

I have the TCK's, 400/700 and Vorshlag plates, and I love them. Sometimes I wish that I had sprung (heh) for the Doubles versus the Singles, just for that extra level of damper control. The Koni-based dampers are excellent at wheel control, and the ride quality is by and large, very impressive, given the spring rates and low ride height I have the car set at. Lap times also dropped. Saw about ~3-4 second improvement around a 2 minute lap track (Buttonwillow). The car feels very planted at autocross or the track. The only complaints I have is that being stiff and low makes the car more twitchy on the bumpy canyon roads out here, especially at speed. Not enough to be dangerous or anything, but it does keep you on your toes. Though, this would be true of just about any suspension when the car is low.
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      09-06-2015, 03:13 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
Depends what you want from the car, for a daily, KW's are tough to beat. Spring rates aren't good for a motorsports applications out of the box, which to an extent is also true with the Ohlins. However, for both of those options, the dampers are phenomenal. The KW V3 damper has serious motorsport pedigree.

I have the TCK's, 400/700 and Vorshlag plates, and I love them. Sometimes I wish that I had sprung (heh) for the Doubles versus the Singles, just for that extra level of damper control. The Koni-based dampers are excellent at wheel control, and the ride quality is by and large, very impressive, given the spring rates and low ride height I have the car set at. Lap times also dropped. Saw about ~3-4 second improvement around a 2 minute lap track (Buttonwillow). The car feels very planted at autocross or the track. The only complaints I have is that being stiff and low makes the car more twitchy on the bumpy canyon roads out here, especially at speed. Not enough to be dangerous or anything, but it does keep you on your toes. Though, this would be true of just about any suspension when the car is low.
Why did you opt for the 700 lb/in spring in the back? After my convo via PM with Harold I'm leaning heavy back to the TCK option, so reading a lot on options there.

Also, what RSFB solution did you go with? Thinking I'll stick with a more simple setup, 400/600, OEM top hats, and the standard TCK VVS springs.
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      09-06-2015, 04:04 PM   #25
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I choose 700 as a compromise between single adjustable damper's ability to handle the spring rate, resistance to bottoming out, and subframe. Currently have Whiteline inserts, will be going back in for full poly at some point.
IMO, an 800# rear spring with a D/A damper and the stiffest bushings out there would be perfect for my particular goals.
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      09-07-2015, 09:00 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Why did you opt for the 700 lb/in spring in the back? After my convo via PM with Harold I'm leaning heavy back to the TCK option, so reading a lot on options there.

Also, what RSFB solution did you go with? Thinking I'll stick with a more simple setup, 400/600, OEM top hats, and the standard TCK VVS springs.
Depending on your goals, I strongly suggest reconsidering camber plates in place of the stock strut mounts. Having the ability to set camber beyond stock is a part of extracting the potential of sport dampers like TCK.
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      09-08-2015, 07:54 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tetsuo111 View Post
Depending on your goals, I strongly suggest reconsidering camber plates in place of the stock strut mounts. Having the ability to set camber beyond stock is a part of extracting the potential of sport dampers like TCK.
100% agree. You won't get max benefit out of a really good suspension kit without plenty of camber.
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      09-08-2015, 06:12 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tetsuo111 View Post
Depending on your goals, I strongly suggest reconsidering camber plates in place of the stock strut mounts. Having the ability to set camber beyond stock is a part of extracting the potential of sport dampers like TCK.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lakefront View Post
100% agree. You won't get max benefit out of a really good suspension kit without plenty of camber.
Completely understand and agree. However, I'd prefer a fixed setup given my car doesn't see track often at all. I'm already at -1.5 in the front. I've been noticing a touch more understeer than I like again lately so the dinan plates should do it.

If the purpose of the car changes, no issue with adding a set of Vorschlag plates. Not afraid of ripping the front struts out again to do that later. No labor costs to worry about aside from an alignment.
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      09-08-2015, 06:14 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
I choose 700 as a compromise between single adjustable damper's ability to handle the spring rate, resistance to bottoming out, and subframe. Currently have Whiteline inserts, will be going back in for full poly at some point.
IMO, an 800# rear spring with a D/A damper and the stiffest bushings out there would be perfect for my particular goals.
How's the rear feel, is it skittery at all? Also, did you do any other bushing work in the rear via arms or otherwise? I'm planning on sticking the AKG 75D RSFB back there when I do the job.
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      09-09-2015, 02:31 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
If I were on a budget, TCKR SA would be my choice. It's far better than KW or ST V1, V2 or even the V3.

If you have $2200 to spend Ohlins R&T, is the best value at that price point.
From what I have heard on these forums and I believe it was confirmed by KW themselves, the KW V3 shares the same internals with the KW Clubsport, and differs only in the spring rates/lack of camber plates and probably the valving for the increased rates of the Clubsport.

Across all the e90/1addicts/M3post forums the clubsport holds its own as a very good damper, extremely popular for it's track capabilities (especially with the M3 guys) and still comfortable on the street. I've also heard that the internals are top notch. Therefore I have to question what is better about the TCK SA vs the KW V3?
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      09-09-2015, 02:42 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris82 View Post
From what I have heard on these forums and I believe it was confirmed by KW themselves, the KW V3 shares the same internals with the KW Clubsport, and differs only in the spring rates/lack of camber plates and probably the valving for the increased rates of the Clubsport.

Across all the e90/1addicts/M3post forums the clubsport holds its own as a very good damper, extremely popular for it's track capabilities (especially with the M3 guys) and still comfortable on the street. I've also heard that the internals are top notch. Therefore I have to question what is better about the TCK SA vs the KW V3?
If you get a chance, drive a TCKR and a KW car, you will notice right away a much better ride quality with TCKR and the precision of the damping over KW. Plus you are getting a coilover that allows you to choose your own spring rates. And for those looking for more wheel/tire clearance the KW beehive spring has the lease amount of clearance.
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      11-07-2015, 08:02 AM   #32
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      12-11-2015, 05:33 AM   #33
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TCK S/A kit arrived. Will update my build thread and cross post impressions here to help anyone trying to decide in the future once I have time to install.
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      12-11-2015, 09:51 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
TCK S/A kit arrived. Will update my build thread and cross post impressions here to help anyone trying to decide in the future once I have time to install.
Awesome! It's gotten so slow here in the suspension threads, glad to see someone is doing a proper coilover modification
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      12-11-2015, 12:21 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris82 View Post
Awesome! It's gotten so slow here in the suspension threads, glad to see someone is doing a proper coilover modification
With E82s out of production, its bound to die off as folks trade out. I'm gonna drive this until the engine blows up though, and then do a V8 swap. Wish I had the money to do everything I want now. Had to settle for suspension as a start since Im not happy with my setup anymore.
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      12-11-2015, 03:54 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
With E82s out of production, its bound to die off as folks trade out. I'm gonna drive this until the engine blows up though, and then do a V8 swap. Wish I had the money to do everything I want now. Had to settle for suspension as a start since Im not happy with my setup anymore.
What didn't you like about your existing setup? I didn't see it in your build thread.
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      12-12-2015, 07:36 AM   #37
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What didn't you like about your existing setup? I didn't see it in your build thread.
Took a while but I wanted a better matched spring rate and damper valving. Also wanted higher spring rates.

The old setup is very good though. 1st world problems.
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      12-31-2015, 04:58 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by ApexResistance View Post
Ok where do I begin.....
I have the ST-XTA coilovers and all I can say is they are superb. They don't break the bank and they perform very well on the track.

I got the E92 kit. They have slightly more aggressive spring rates than the E82. Since the E92 is heavier.

Having the Adjustable rebound is good... Though I'd rather have adjustable dampening. No complaints though. The V2 dampners come matched to the Spring rates, so they are optimal out of the box.

Posting pictures of ride height and clearances with coilovers is pointless. You can set the height and camber to your specification and that will determine clearances.

In conclusion I would recommend the XTA versions. Front linear club sport springs and progressive rears. They are easy to adjust, and perfect for dual duty use.
can you post your ride height pics, i do not want to go low either. i have koni yellow and bmw perf. springs and would like to move over to coilovers but where my rear is now is even a bit low, for the rears i would like to stick to almost stock ride height. this pic is my koni yellow/bmw perf springs with my old 255/30/19, i think now when i went back to 255/35/18 i think i have a little less or maybe the same even though they should be almost the same. 19's were kuhmo spt and 18's are hankook evo2, but i have found it always depends on how level the ground is when looking.
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      12-31-2015, 06:40 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by mike082802 View Post
can you post your ride height pics, i do not want to go low either. i have koni yellow and bmw perf. springs and would like to move over to coilovers but where my rear is now is even a bit low, for the rears i would like to stick to almost stock ride height. this pic is my koni yellow/bmw perf springs with my old 255/30/19, i think now when i went back to 255/35/18 i think i have a little less or maybe the same even though they should be almost the same. 19's were kuhmo spt and 18's are hankook evo2, but i have found it always depends on how level the ground is when looking.
thanks
Here you go. This is my moderate "track setting".
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      01-01-2016, 02:45 AM   #40
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Here you go. This is my moderate "track setting".
how many inches can you go up from those pics?
thanks
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      01-01-2016, 08:45 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Took a while but I wanted a better matched spring rate and damper valving. Also wanted higher spring rates.

The old setup is very good though. 1st world problems.
So are these installed yet? Any impressions?
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      01-02-2016, 06:52 PM   #42
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So are these installed yet? Any impressions?
Nope, car got hit by an irresponsible individual and has been in and out of body shop. Waiting until its fixed up 100% before doing the coilover install. Goes in for hopefully the last part of the work on Monday, so not much longer!
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      01-27-2016, 09:18 AM   #43
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how are you planning to run the factory strut mount with dinan plates? Is there an additional adapter you need to buy?
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      01-27-2016, 01:38 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
how are you planning to run the factory strut mount with dinan plates? Is there an additional adapter you need to buy?
The Dinan plates are designed to be used only with factory type strut mounts. You must remove the existing studs and locating dowel from the strut mount and use the supplied fasteners to attach the Dinan plates to the top of the mount. The plate is offset and allows approximately .75 degrees of negative camber per side.

Edit: this is a popular option because it still retains the OE mount (less NVH). This paired with the M3/TRW control arms is a great alternative to adjustable plates if you never really plan on changing your alignment.



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