BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      05-17-2016, 03:00 PM   #23
KNS
Lieutenant
129
Rep
439
Posts

Drives: 128i and Porsche
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Arizona

iTrader: (0)

Just finished the rear brakes on the 205,000 mile E46. I purchased new rotors and pads but once I measured the rotors they were nearly new limits - just under 20mm thickness. They were almost the same thickness as new rotors. Minimum wear limit is 17.4mm.

Goes to show the the low dust pads I had on them were very, very easy on the rotors.

I should say that while my last 100,000 miles have been mostly highway my first 100,000 were a mix of highway and city. I think I've just developed a habit of going easy on the brakes.
Appreciate 0
      05-17-2016, 03:13 PM   #24
lowbudgethero
Captain
lowbudgethero's Avatar
114
Rep
739
Posts

Drives: '98 Z3M (gone), '09 135i
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: 908

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2009 BMW 135i  [4.25]
Quote:
Originally Posted by PA135i View Post
That's hard believe that you went 65K on a set of brakes. It seems impossible, unless you really take it easy on them.
This is third BMW and the longest I went on a set was 38K.
I'm at 56K and counting, my m roadster was at 136K before they started vibrating really bad

If you do a lot of highway/backroad miles they will last and it's not farfetched

and I have driven the cars hard enough to smell the brakes (just not too often)
Appreciate 0
      05-18-2016, 07:33 AM   #25
PA135i
Brigadier General
PA135i's Avatar
United_States
937
Rep
3,323
Posts

Drives: 08 135i 08 CR-V
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Pennsylvania

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowbudgethero View Post
I'm at 56K and counting, my m roadster was at 136K before they started vibrating really bad

If you do a lot of highway/backroad miles they will last and it's not farfetched

and I have driven the cars hard enough to smell the brakes (just not too often)
Yeah, well I think that's obvious that if you drive a lot of highway miles the brakes will last much longer.
__________________
Sparkling Graphite Metallic / 6MT / Terracotta Boston Leather / Sport Package / Comfort Access system / Gray Poplar wood trim / Heated front seats / iPod and USB adapter / HD radio / Premium hi-fi system / OE Tuning / VRSF Intercooler & charge pipe / BMW Performance short shift kit / BMW M Performance Handbrake Handle / BMW Stainless steel pedals / V1 hardwired / rear sun shades Pennsylvania 20 electoral votes
Appreciate 0
      05-18-2016, 08:38 AM   #26
bNks334
Major
bNks334's Avatar
334
Rep
1,016
Posts

Drives: '11 135i (N55)
Join Date: May 2014
Location: New York

iTrader: (1)

BMW replaced my fronts at 21k miles because they were warped and I was getting pretty bad vibrations. Front pads were also low at that point.

It's been another 25k miles now and the front rotors are still in great shape (multiple track days too). Front pads also don't look like there is that much wear on them at all... Not sure how to explain that other than maybe moving to a wider front tire is helping prolong the life of my brakes.

Rears haven't been touched yet after ~45k miles. They are low and due to be replaced within another 5k miles I'd say.
Appreciate 0
      05-23-2016, 10:25 AM   #27
geeyore
Private
geeyore's Avatar
United_States
9
Rep
67
Posts

Drives: 2011 135i 6MT
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: DC Metro

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfie1 View Post
Edit: Mileage is at 44k and I do not know if PO tracked it.
If PO tracked it, PO might also have taken excellent care of the brakes, since they are ultra-important on the track. I have better brakes than 95 percent of the cars on the road, and that's with minimal upgrades.
__________________
2011 135i 6MT, Cobb FMIC, Stoptech ST-60, Pagid RS-29, Castrol SRF, Goodridge G-Stop, Apex EC-7, Dinan Front Sway, Ohlins R&T, Swift 400/500, Vorshlag Camber, M3 lowers & bits, Diffsonline 3.08 3-clutch, Sparco Ergo/Evo, Schroth Hybrid, RRT welded 4-point hoop
DD: BMW 328xiT Prior: 2000 323iT 5MT, 2000 Z3 2.3 5MT, 2001 325iT 5MT, 2009 128i 6MT
Appreciate 0
      06-16-2016, 03:37 PM   #28
WP1
Private
WP1's Avatar
10
Rep
99
Posts

Drives: White BMW 135i Convertible
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: College Park, MD

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by fboutlaw View Post
If your brakes are squealing it could be from a few things:
1. Poorly bedded rotor - Try rebedding sequence
2. gravel trapped in the caliper. This happens at autox's all the time. Drive backwards and jam on the brakes to try to dislodge.
3. If those don't work, you can either have your rotors shaved down and re-bed or replace them completely.

Good luck
Thanks.... Noise still exist. Thought the the OEM rotors couldn't be shaved?
__________________
Used to own the eclipse (avatar pix).
Sold it and post it in memory
Appreciate 0
      06-18-2016, 01:41 AM   #29
joe86
Enlisted Member
10
Rep
49
Posts

Drives: 08 135 coupe
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: bay area

iTrader: (0)

Could be the pad sensors. They start rubbing at about 7.5mm. One on the lf an rr. I just tied mine back because I inspect my brakes regularly. Edit: If your build date is 3/10 or above it has sensors that start rubbing at 3mm.
__________________
m3 f. con. arms, RE tension arm bush.'s, vorshlag plates, bilstein sports, swift springs, toe arms, dinan rsm's, alum. rsfb's, cobb2+. 1m strut brace, ARC-8, RE71R 235/265.

Last edited by joe86; 06-18-2016 at 01:50 AM..
Appreciate 0
      06-18-2016, 01:59 PM   #30
JimD
Brigadier General
JimD's Avatar
301
Rep
3,480
Posts

Drives: 128i convertible
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Lexington, SC

iTrader: (0)

A big variable on brake life is the transmission. Both my Suzuki SUV and my e88 are manuals. I have less than 50K on my e88 but have almost 126K on the zuk. It still has it's original brakes. I drive mostly in town. The e88 also still has it's original brakes but I will check them at 50K miles. I expect them to still be fine but different cars react differently. I might even put on some pads that dust less - BMWs are terribly dusty.

In brake cost, the variables are what gets replaced and by who. When I do the zuki, it will get pads - only. The disks are plenty thick. I won't have them turned either unless there are deep grooves. I will have to be careful for the first few stops to let the pads wear to the disks but after that, the brakes will be fine. I've done this on several other cars without issue. On my e88, I'm not sure. I might go "fancy" and put on new discs. But if I do the discs, I will probably not use BMW parts. Brake discs are not a high tech product. Aftermarket should be fine. Brakes are also not something a dealer needs to do. Any decent mechanic should be able to do brakes without issue.

Doing it myself and only doing pads, I would expect to do the Zuk for $100 or less. I'll spend more on the bimmer but I can't imagine spending more than $500.
__________________
128i Convertible, MT, Alpine White, Black Top, Taupe Leatherette, Walnut, Sport
Ordered 5/22/09, Completed 6/4/09, At Port 6/9/09, On the Georgia Highway 6/13/09, Ship Arrived Charleston 6/24/09 at 10pm, PCD 7/21/09
Appreciate 0
      06-18-2016, 03:17 PM   #31
PA135i
Brigadier General
PA135i's Avatar
United_States
937
Rep
3,323
Posts

Drives: 08 135i 08 CR-V
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Pennsylvania

iTrader: (0)

Maybe the biggest factor in brake life is the brake material itself.

BMW typically uses a softer brake material that gives up their life faster but with superior braking ability.

I know many people who have changed from the OEM material to a longer life pad.
They work fine but don't stop as well as the OEM pads.

I currently have 32K on my front pads. The car just passed state inspection, so they are still OK. I don't think I'll make it to 40K without replacing them.
__________________
Sparkling Graphite Metallic / 6MT / Terracotta Boston Leather / Sport Package / Comfort Access system / Gray Poplar wood trim / Heated front seats / iPod and USB adapter / HD radio / Premium hi-fi system / OE Tuning / VRSF Intercooler & charge pipe / BMW Performance short shift kit / BMW M Performance Handbrake Handle / BMW Stainless steel pedals / V1 hardwired / rear sun shades Pennsylvania 20 electoral votes
Appreciate 0
      06-27-2016, 10:15 AM   #32
WP1
Private
WP1's Avatar
10
Rep
99
Posts

Drives: White BMW 135i Convertible
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: College Park, MD

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by joe86 View Post
Could be the pad sensors. They start rubbing at about 7.5mm. One on the lf an rr. I just tied mine back because I inspect my brakes regularly. Edit: If your build date is 3/10 or above it has sensors that start rubbing at 3mm.
Good point - thanks. At this point, I will take it to a shop. I tried CRC Brake Parts Cleaner and didn't work

The production date was Nov. 2009 and delivered Jan.10. In service Apr 2010


IF there is a bad sensor can it be replaced or do you have to replace the pad/dic too?


Thanks,
__________________
Used to own the eclipse (avatar pix).
Sold it and post it in memory
Appreciate 0
      06-27-2016, 11:05 PM   #33
joe86
Enlisted Member
10
Rep
49
Posts

Drives: 08 135 coupe
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: bay area

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by WP1 View Post
Good point - thanks. At this point, I will take it to a shop. I tried CRC Brake Parts Cleaner and didn't work

The production date was Nov. 2009 and delivered Jan.10. In service Apr 2010


IF there is a bad sensor can it be replaced or do you have to replace the pad/dic too?


Thanks,
Once the sensor starts to rub the rotor the correct way to fix it is to replace the pads. It is not advised to grind down a new sensor to make it fit.
__________________
m3 f. con. arms, RE tension arm bush.'s, vorshlag plates, bilstein sports, swift springs, toe arms, dinan rsm's, alum. rsfb's, cobb2+. 1m strut brace, ARC-8, RE71R 235/265.
Appreciate 0
      06-29-2016, 09:57 AM   #34
WP1
Private
WP1's Avatar
10
Rep
99
Posts

Drives: White BMW 135i Convertible
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: College Park, MD

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by joe86 View Post
Once the sensor starts to rub the rotor the correct way to fix it is to replace the pads. It is not advised to grind down a new sensor to make it fit.
Well, took the car to the mechanic and just looking at the breaks he noticed they seem to be a good shape (plenty of disc and plenty of pads). I recorded the sound yesterday and he heard it. He didn't like it too and recommended to change the brakes because he believe the sensor would not make that noise and will send a message to the computer or to my dashboard. It seem impossible that there is not "quick" fix and not paying $$$$$ to have that noise disappear.. I really feel embarrassed when I break because of the noise. No good points for the Unlimited Driving Machine.
__________________
Used to own the eclipse (avatar pix).
Sold it and post it in memory

Last edited by WP1; 06-29-2016 at 10:02 AM..
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:08 PM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST