BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      05-18-2019, 04:21 AM   #45
juld0zer
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Use F20 17" rims. Style 379's are cheap and abundant, tyres are also cheap too
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      05-27-2019, 08:45 AM   #46
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For those who upgraded to this, did you have to use 128i front brake lines OR 335i front brake lines?

The OP indicated that he used 128 lines but the manufacturer number he posted was a 335i. Just wanted to price out options at this point. Thank you in advance.
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      05-27-2019, 12:43 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by $iriu$black View Post
For those who upgraded to this, did you have to use 128i front brake lines OR 335i front brake lines?

The OP indicated that he used 128 lines but the manufacturer number he posted was a 335i. Just wanted to price out options at this point. Thank you in advance.
They use the same flexible brake hoses, front, mid, and rear.
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      06-05-2019, 05:39 AM   #48
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Disconnect the rubber lines at both ends and reinstall once you have torqued up the caliper to the knuckle (110Nm).

This is to avoid twisting the line as the tightened position of the line is different between the original ATE caliper versus the Brembo. It's also far easier than rotating a giant caliper around and around
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      07-28-2019, 10:00 PM   #49
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so I did the F22/30 front 340mm brake install today. Style 207 7in or 7.5in wide with 47mm offset doesn't fit, nicked the rotors trying too. Will try the rear 7.5in wheel at some point. I didn't have spacers. style 44 8in wide 47mm offset do fit with no spacers needed. thanks for all those who shared their experience, very helpful. I should add, and I weight the items, off memory with a bathroom mechanical scale, stock setup was 30lbs pads, caliper and rotor, and the new brake setup was 32-33lbs. to stock used rotor was 17 lbs, new 340mm rotor was 22lbs went with BMW blank rotor with aluminum hat. old caliper with used pad n bracket was 13 lb. new 4 pot caliper was 7lbs with pads n pins n clip 11lbs all in.
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      08-02-2019, 03:27 PM   #50
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I do know this is a dumb question but could you use stock rotors with this caliper? I could get a set of caliper and pads for less than $500cad, but rotors seem to cost around that much aswell. I have relatively new rotors so im just curious if i could use 128i rotors, but F30 pads and caliper
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      08-16-2019, 09:27 AM   #51
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Confirmed that the 207M wheels DO NOT clear these calipers, even with 10mm spacers. I did not know if a 12mm will make it clear, though. I was grazing the inside barrel on a part of the caliper. Would be good if someone can chime in who made it work with the 207M wheels.
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      09-02-2019, 05:10 AM   #52
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@$iriu$black I have the same 207 style wheels and some 15 mm spacers. Did you ever find out what clears them?
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      05-21-2020, 07:19 AM   #53
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bringing this back to life, will the sport two piston rear fit the rear of the 135i?
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      08-22-2020, 01:40 PM   #54
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Just did some research on pistons and master cylinders so I'm putting it here. Some is already in the thread, but one place is nice.

F30 Front Brembos - 40 mm pistons, 340x30 mm rotors (grey brakes)
F30 Rear (single piston) - 42 mm piston, 330x20 mm rotors

128i Front Brakes - 54mm piston, 300x24 mm rotors
128i Rear Brakes - 40 mm piston, 300x20 mm rotors


Master Cylinders
128i - 23/22 mm - 34336785662
135i - 25/22 mm - 34336785664
1M/M3 - 26/22 mm - 34312283533
F30 335i - 24/22 mm master cylinder - 34336851095 (probably will not fit in an E* car)

So a cylinder swap would probably be optimal. I'm currently running the F30 fronts and 42 mm piston rears so I may look at swapping in a 135i master cylinder unless I can find a 24/22 master cylinder from another E era model that'll fit. Need to bed my pads first and then ABS bleed and then try the sport brakes programming in that order to see if pedal feel and travel improves. If it doesn't, then I'll probably get the 135i master cylinder.

34336785663 and 5 (made this PN from the 128 and 135i numbers) appears to be for right side drive vehicles and not an intermediate size.
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      08-23-2020, 01:50 PM   #55
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Moving this conversation here to settle master cylinder discussion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
135i MC is the same as ours, go for an E9x M3 (or 1M) master cylinder. That's what I did, and the brake feel is fantastic!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suprgnat View Post
It's all about the larger take-up cylinder to accomodate the greater piston area. 128i is a 22/23, 135i is a 22/25, and 1M is a 22/26.

Oh, 135i is different.
Suprgnat is correct here. 128i and 135i master cylinders differ.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
Huh, I thought ours was the same, oh well.

The larger piston is exclusively for the fronts, look at the system diagrams on TIS. I actually had a discussion about that with someone else in another thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suprgnat View Post
Not how that works. Google take-up cylinder. The take up cylinder may only effect the front, but the "working area" is still only 22mm or whatever.
Suprgnat also right here. I learned something new today as I thought the larger piston was for the fronts as well. Turns out it's just a configuration to take up fluid volume early in the pedal stroke.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Suprgnat View Post
If you'e interested in a follow up, this slide show prep for the ASE Brake certification test is excellent:

Fig. 69-28 to 69-31

https://www.slideshare.net/mobile/mcfalltj/chap69
The confusion lies in that the take up piston (the larger of the pistons) is attached to the primary piston and in most tandem cylinder diagrams, a take up valve is not shown, nor is a larger piston for take up.

To summarize:

The take-up piston flows extra fluid volume forward to the primary piston's circuit. It does so because of the valve controlling the backfill behind the primary piston. This valve closes under a certain condition so that the fluid can only escape past the primary piston seal. It fills the primary circuit more rapidly until pressure is built and that check valve opens and the primary piston seal seals and then the working piston diameter immediately goes down to the 22 mm present in all these MCs we're discussing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
According to newTIS, there is no Quick Take-Up valve in the hydraulic system, as would be necessary for that to work. The two master cylinder outlets, again, according to newTIS, never have an opportunity to combine flow. Our DSC module is almost the same as what was in the E46, it doesn't have much of the cool complex stuff really modern cars have. And I can't see how it would be incorporated into the master cylinder, because there simply doesn't appear to be the facilities/space for it (based on the 15 minutes of reading I've done).

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/1tHNoSj

And it just wouldn't make sense from just feeling the difference in the brakes. They would feel the same after the take-up after the MC swap, and they simply do not. The pedal is MUCH shorter and heavier.
I wouldn't think the take-up valve would be shown in that diagram. The master cylinder is a single point. If it were included in a diagram, then you'd expect primary and secondary seals and their intake/vent ports to also be included.



On this image of a 135i master cylinder, you can see what I think may be a take up valve (but its in the 22 port so IDK)?

So your upgrade to a 1M cylinder just makes the front brakes take up VERY fast and contributes to a shorter overall stroke. But your force applied in the end is no different than the 128i or 135i cylinders.

The only confusing thing is why BMW/Ate have the piston diameters on the outlet ports. It seems to suggest those are the working piston sizes, but apparently not.


Check out page 7

http://faculty.ccbcmd.edu/~smacadof/...B_a5_m03_Final

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      08-23-2020, 02:17 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WDE82 View Post
The only confusing thing is why BMW/Ate have the piston diameters on the outlet ports. It seems to suggest those are the working piston sizes, but apparently not.
The ports in the rear position go towards the take-up piston. Notice also in your attached ECS photo that the outlet port is angled back towards the take-up piston. I'd bet the valve is inserted from the bore side and not from the top like in most illustrations.

I suspect what you see is a retaining pin for the piston assembly in the forward position . I'm unwilling to disassemble my new M3 master cylinder to find out.

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      08-23-2020, 02:21 PM   #57
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Good stuff. Anyway, I'm buying a 135i master cylinder and that's it for me on this brake project.
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      08-23-2020, 04:32 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 128Styll View Post
@$iriu$black I have the same 207 style wheels and some 15 mm spacers. Did you ever find out what clears them?
I just saw this now, delayed for almost a year. I confirmed that it doesnít fit without a spacer which was too bad. I figured if youíd try to fit it with those 15mm spacers you got, maybe it will. Chime in here if you find success. I still would love to keep the 207Ms driving on street.
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      08-23-2020, 04:44 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WDE82 View Post
Good stuff. Anyway, I'm buying a 135i master cylinder and that's it for me on this brake project.
Good information gathered and shared. I appreciate it. I have not read anyone do the 135i MC with the F30 brake upgrade. If itís optimal than the M3 MC, I obviously am not qualified to determine, but would be nice to know once this is settled. I am contemplating to do this upgrade soon as Iíve all the parts except the new MC and would be nice to know which one of them works as intended, coupled with the correct pedal feel. Iíve yet to overwork my stock ones on track so Iím not in a hurry. Thanks again for sharing your expertise.
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      08-23-2020, 06:50 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by $iriu$black View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by WDE82 View Post
Good stuff. Anyway, I'm buying a 135i master cylinder and that's it for me on this brake project.
Good information gathered and shared. I appreciate it. I have not read anyone do the 135i MC with the F30 brake upgrade. If it's optimal than the M3 MC, I obviously am not qualified to determine, but would be nice to know once this is settled. I am contemplating to do this upgrade soon as I've all the parts except the new MC and would be nice to know which one of them works as intended, coupled with the correct pedal feel. I've yet to overwork my stock ones on track so I'm not in a hurry. Thanks again for sharing your expertise.
I think either the 135 or the 1M master cylinders will do just fine. It's purely a feel thing. The 1M cylinder is also about 4x the cost used and at least double aftermarket. It would feel tighter and more immediate but would have the same feel once pressure is built.

I think the 128i MC is a bit inadequate on take up judging by my first drives.
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      08-23-2020, 10:15 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WDE82 View Post
I think either the 135 or the 1M master cylinders will do just fine. It's purely a feel thing. The 1M cylinder is also about 4x the cost used and at least double aftermarket. It would feel tighter and more immediate but would have the same feel once pressure is built.

I think the 128i MC is a bit inadequate on take up judging by my first drives.
I found my M3 master cylinder for $60, so I immediately jumped on it. Not really helpful as it's just one case, but you can find them cheap (and in perfect working order, too).

The M3 MC did exactly what I wanted, so that's what I'll continue to recommend. If you do the 135i MC, I'd love to compare notes. Huntsville is somewhere between my home and school, so maybe we could arrange a quick car swap
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      08-24-2020, 04:37 PM   #62
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So fairly interesting experience today. I learned a bit more about NCS Expert and coding. I had added +SPBR to the VO in the CAS, but not NFRM. So I did that. Then I found out you have to "default code" the modules you want that VO coding to affect. So I default coded the DSC. Then redid my coding to remove brake fade compensation and engine power reduction to prevent brake fade. If the dealer gets ahold of my car and programs, it should retain the SPBR settings but I'll have to recode the DSC. No steering recalibration so far.

So some notable values did change such as Front and Rear pressure coefficients. Also SOMEHOW the pedal travel has been reduced significantly. I have NO idea how it's accomplishing this, but I'd go so far as to say the 135i MC I bought may not be needed at all.

I'm thinking about doing an A/B test where I drive, then code as fast as I can, then drive again to see if it's really different. Car sat overnight so maybe some bubbles rose out of the DSC or MC?
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      08-24-2020, 04:56 PM   #63
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What does +spbr add?

Nm. Sport brake I assume. I wonder if the 135i comes with that in the vo from the factory. I’ll have to check my car.
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      08-24-2020, 06:37 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
What does +spbr add?

Nm. Sport brake I assume. I wonder if the 135i comes with that in the vo from the factory. I'll have to check my car.
It's just a vehicle option that tells modules how they should be coded. The 135i wouldn't have it since its brakes and such are captured under the E82+N54/55 combination.

I looked at my TRC files this evening and the front coefficients are the same for 135i and 128i+SPBR. The rear is different which makes sense.
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