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      01-21-2010, 02:16 AM   #23
1erich
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Looks great, I plan on getting these soon myself. I'll probably order from Harold this spring.

I'm curious why you kept a brake shield on when creating the mounts for the ducts. Wouldn't these shields keep heat in the system?
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      01-29-2010, 06:37 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1erich View Post
Looks great, I plan on getting these soon myself. I'll probably order from Harold this spring.

I'm curious why you kept a brake shield on when creating the mounts for the ducts. Wouldn't these shields keep heat in the system?
You want to aim the brake duct & cool air into the center of the spinning rotor and let it pass through the cooling vanes that are cast inside the rotor. If I wanted to get a little more creative with the setup we could also add some flaps on there to catch some more air. What we have now is already very effective and we no longer experience the brake fade that the OEM Brembo's had.

Here's a high tech example on a F1 car:


and on a stock car:
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      01-30-2010, 09:49 AM   #25
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Very Nice Guys. Good info when i pick up mine. And I <3 F1 Brakes lol.
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      01-30-2010, 06:13 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BerkTechnology View Post
Your toe setting will be WAY off after the install. Go by Larry's install tip where he had to go 10 turns toe in on each side to get it kind of close so you can at least drive to an alignment shop. I haven't checked the alignment yet but I'll be sure to let you know where we sit after this upgrade.
Any link to how to adjust the toe? I'm not very familiar with adjusting suspension bits.

This is one of the few suspension mods I'm interested in. I love how responsive the M3 is to steering inputs, if I could get the 135i to come a little closer to that feeling I'd be thrilled.
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      01-31-2010, 08:03 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muffnbluff View Post
Any link to how to adjust the toe? I'm not very familiar with adjusting suspension bits.

This is one of the few suspension mods I'm interested in. I love how responsive the M3 is to steering inputs, if I could get the 135i to come a little closer to that feeling I'd be thrilled.
Toe is adjusted by loosening the collar bolt on the steering linkage, and turning the the threaded shaft.

Here's a great pic of the threaded shaft:

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      01-31-2010, 09:28 AM   #28
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Ok, I see what you're talking about, thanks.
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      01-31-2010, 11:24 AM   #29
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Awesome, you are definitely installing some serious performance upgrade. I like your style brakes, suspension, power.
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      03-09-2010, 12:28 AM   #30
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Hows the M3 sway bar working out for you guys?
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      03-20-2010, 02:45 PM   #31
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You guys aren't bothered by the fact that you need to squish one end of the lower control arm to get it to fit? Do you think it be beneficial to cut the width down a bit before installing?

Separately, would the M3 contol arms and tension rods work well without camber plates? I don't really want a lot of extra negative camber, since I'm not planning to race the car, but wouldn't mind a bit extra. I'd also like to have more steering feel.
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      03-20-2010, 05:18 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajshanny View Post
You guys aren't bothered by the fact that you need to squish one end of the lower control arm to get it to fit? Do you think it be beneficial to cut the width down a bit before installing?

Separately, would the M3 contol arms and tension rods work well without camber plates? I don't really want a lot of extra negative camber, since I'm not planning to race the car, but wouldn't mind a bit extra. I'd also like to have more steering feel.
They work perfectly fine without camber plates, and still firm up steering considerably. I ran them like that for 4 months before getting camber plates.

The bushing holder on the inboard side has a tiny bit of "spring fit" to it, and when you remove the stock LCA, it compresses the seat ever so slightly. There is zero difference in width of the bushings between the stock arm.
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      03-20-2010, 07:59 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryn View Post
They work perfectly fine without camber plates, and still firm up steering considerably. I ran them like that for 4 months before getting camber plates.

The bushing holder on the inboard side has a tiny bit of "spring fit" to it, and when you remove the stock LCA, it compresses the seat ever so slightly. There is zero difference in width of the bushings between the stock arm.
Thanks. Can you describe your impressions of the improvements for both the first setup and the second (and compare)? Also, have the stiffer bushings affected the ride quality negatively?

I'm running koni yellows with stock springs now, but thinking about trying BMW performance shocks and springs with the the M3 control arms, tension rods and maybe an M3 or Hotchkis sway. The konis are tolerable, but on the stiff side. I'd like to reduce the body role and improve steering feel without making the ride any stiffer than it is.
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      03-20-2010, 08:40 PM   #34
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Have you adjusted the Konis to full soft? I know the rears are tough to get to, but if you're thinking of getting the BMW Performance setup, I'm wondering if you are set to stiff on the Konis. I do not think you'll get any more suspension compliancy by going with the BMW Performance struts.

Everything to do to add better handling will add more noise noise making its way into the cabin. The M3 parts have stiffer bushings, making the car handle better, but adding a tiny bit more noise. Same with the stuffer sways.

If you are already on a soft setting with the Koni yellows, and feel that is too intrusive, then don't do the sways or camber plates without doing something to minimize noise. If you still have the runflats (and don't mind running regular tires), you can reduce cabin noise by getting non-runflats. You'll also gain better handling, based on your replacement tire choice.

I would not recommend camber plates for street use. Cars that only see street use should not be running more than -1.5deg camber up front. You'll only eat the inside tread prematurely.
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      03-21-2010, 08:10 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryn View Post
Have you adjusted the Konis to full soft? I know the rears are tough to get to, but if you're thinking of getting the BMW Performance setup, I'm wondering if you are set to stiff on the Konis. I do not think you'll get any more suspension compliancy by going with the BMW Performance struts.

Everything to do to add better handling will add more noise noise making its way into the cabin. The M3 parts have stiffer bushings, making the car handle better, but adding a tiny bit more noise. Same with the stuffer sways.

If you are already on a soft setting with the Koni yellows, and feel that is too intrusive, then don't do the sways or camber plates without doing something to minimize noise. If you still have the runflats (and don't mind running regular tires), you can reduce cabin noise by getting non-runflats. You'll also gain better handling, based on your replacement tire choice.

I would not recommend camber plates for street use. Cars that only see street use should not be running more than -1.5deg camber up front. You'll only eat the inside tread prematurely.
Tire wear is one of my concerns, which is why I was not inclined to run camber plates. I am running the Konis on full soft, so adjustment is not an option. I will probably run non RFT tires eventually, but want to wear out the stock tires first. If I go with the M3 parts without the camber plates, how much camber will I have?
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      03-21-2010, 09:15 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajshanny View Post
Tire wear is one of my concerns, which is why I was not inclined to run camber plates. I am running the Konis on full soft, so adjustment is not an option. I will probably run non RFT tires eventually, but want to wear out the stock tires first. If I go with the M3 parts without the camber plates, how much camber will I have?
At stock height to go from -.3 deg to about -1 deg.

I do not think the BMW performance suspension is for you, if Konis on full soft are not compliant enough. Definitely check out replacement non-runflats, when it's time though. You'll lose tons of harshness that the runflats introduce.
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      03-21-2010, 10:37 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryn View Post
At stock height to go from -.3 deg to about -1 deg.

I do not think the BMW performance suspension is for you, if Konis on full soft are not compliant enough. Definitely check out replacement non-runflats, when it's time though. You'll lose tons of harshness that the runflats introduce.
Thanks. That info is helpful. When I replace the non-RFT tires, I may also go with the Aluflegen wheels because that would permit more flexibility when choosing the tires. It seems that 215x18 is an odd size and not that many options are available. With the wider wheels, I could go up to 225.
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      03-30-2010, 03:48 PM   #38
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are you guys using the stock endlinks with the new m3 sway bar?
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      03-30-2010, 03:50 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zsapphire7 View Post
are you guys using the stock endlinks with the new m3 sway bar?
On the rear we are. We have Velocity Motorcars adjustable end links on the front. Waiting on them to develop end links for the rear.
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      04-01-2010, 12:16 AM   #40
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Well, I pulled the trigger on these parts from Harold today along with a set of Koni Yellows and the Eibach springs. Will likely be doing the upgrade in a couple weeks in my friend's shop.

One thing I'm not absolutely clear on is increasing the toe-out after the installation. Referring to post #27 by Larry above, I see the silvery steel rod protruding the steering rack boot with the threaded section screwing into the tie rod end, and the flats to hold it.

Do you need to actually loosen the large nut to remove the tie rod end from the spindle, drop it down, and turn it on the aforementioned inboard rod's threads while holding the flats to decrease toe-in?

Thanks for any info...

ianc

P.S. Any torque settings for these large fasteners?

P.P.S. Great write up and pics; thanks for that!
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      04-01-2010, 09:32 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianc View Post

Do you need to actually loosen the large nut to remove the tie rod end from the spindle, drop it down, and turn it on the aforementioned inboard rod's threads while holding the flats to decrease toe-in?
No, not at all. Just loosten the collar nut, and turn the arm with an open end wrench. Then tighten it back up. Just takes a few seconds to adjust. Of course it will take a few times to get it right.
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      04-02-2010, 03:08 PM   #42
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Quote:
Just loosten the collar nut, and turn the arm with an open end wrench.
OK, thanks. I suspected it would be something like this because the way I proposed would be pretty damned silly, but I just don't see a collar nut in that pic. I would expect to see it between the tie rod end and the arm coming from the rack boot to lock them together...

Oh well, once I get it in the air with the wheel off, I expect things will look much more obvious. Thanks for the response,

ianc
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      04-05-2010, 03:30 PM   #43
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There is a part 2 now. And now we're using steroids.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371047
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      04-20-2010, 12:55 AM   #44
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Hey, I'm in the midst of wading through this right now. Can you guys give any torque specs on these fasteners? I got a bootlegged copy of TIS from ebay specifically for this purpose but without any exploded diagrams, how the hell do you know what they're talking about?

Specifically, I'm interested in:

1) The large 21 mm locknuts with the collars holding the wishbones and tension rods into the hub\spindle

2) The 18's on the other ends of these guys that hold them into the front subframe

3) The clamp bolt that holds the bottom of the strut body into the hub\spindle

4) The nut on the top of the strut shaft?

5) Sway bar drop links and bracket nuts?

Thanks for any info, and appreciate answers in ft-lbs. if possible. I would prefer not to just 'tighten the shit out of them', but if I can't get any factory specs...

ianc

Last edited by ianc; 04-20-2010 at 01:00 AM..
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