Deferred maintenance

[clubracer6]

Hello all,

Starting to look at 128’s and I found one that is just about perfect spec, but slightly higher mileage at 79k. Normally this would not bother me, but there has been NO other maintenance outside of oil changes and brakes for the past 30+k miles and over 4 years.

The seller is upfront about it, but thoughts about any potential damages or diminished longevity to the motor?

Also how much can I roughly budget for an independent BMW mechanic to change all the fluids, filters, plugs and maybe the water pump. Is the dealer still the only option for getting a 2nd key? Is there a dealer that offers better pricing? It’s been a while since I needed to buy one, but I remember these not being cheap!

Thanks in advance for any thoughts and information on this.

[olds350]

Honestly, if they have taken care of oil changes and brakes, you're probably fine. The last 128 I bought was from a dealer and they had no history, so I just addressed what was needed. In regard to oil changes, if they followed the 15k change suggestion, be ready for copious amounts of sludge up under the valve cover. I'm still dealing with getting mine cleaned up with some engine flush.

As for budget, you know the drill. OFHG, VC gasket and water pump replace are lurking around the corner and a possible starter replace. Also depends if you do the work yourself or farm it out.

[________]

What do you mean by deferred maintenance?

What should the PO have done that he did not?

[jemfff]

For the average driver - if it aint broke - dont fix it...

Regular oil change is most important - for the engine.

If possible - assess the quality of the coolant (you can get colour test strips), obd scan for codes - other elements of maintenance or there lack of can be remedied.

If the engine checks out fine - you can play the situation to your advantage when negotiating (the amount of maintenance that you have to do should be factored into your offer)

- waterpump
- coolant flush
- transmission and diff flush
- brake fluid flush
- bushings
- the more things you can list as to do on the car - the more advantage you have to your negotiation.

Dealers and indies can do PPI which will give you the list, it also helps you decide on whether if you can accept the "to do" or whether if you just want to buy and drive without having to deal with these things upon buying a new car.

[Gangplank]

It kind of depends what was done up to the 50k mark.

Other than oil & filter + air& cabin filter changes here is what I try to follow.

* Coolant flush: 2 yrs / 24k mi.
* Water pump & T-stat @ 60k (optional & tends to fail +/- 60k)
* Brake fluid: 3yrs / 36k mi.
* steering fluid 3 yrs / 36k
* Spark plugs: n55 & 60k, or n54/n55 w/ tune @ 45k mi.

So if he hasn't changed the Plugs that's prolly needed. Otherwise just coolant & brake fluid most important, power steering fluid if you feel it's needed.

[clubracer6]

Thanks all, your comments line up with my thoughts. No records of what was done prior to 50k, which is more concerning. Is $1500 a reasonable deduction for a lack of 2nd key and maintenance that has not been done?

[Gangplank]

Originally Posted by clubracer6

Thanks all, your comments line up with my thoughts. No records of what was done prior to 50k, which is more concerning. Is $1500 a reasonable deduction for a lack of 2nd key and maintenance that has not been done?

Is it comfort access or non-CA? My non-CA key was $200 from the dealer.

If you can get $1500 that would cover a key and quite a bit of maintenance at a good Indy shop.

Check for leaks around the oil filter housing gasket. If it's leaking that's needed.

[rowsdower]

Oil changes need to be done sooner than BMW recommends - pull the oil filler cap off and look under there with a flashlight for sludge. As long as oil changes were done appropriately, the rest of this would not turn me off from buying the car provided everything else was in order.

One thing you'll notice if you spend time on this forum is that people like to dump money into these cars seemingly for fun. One example is replacing water pumps before they fail because the collective opinion on this forum is that all waterpumps are on the brink of failure at all times. That's a $600 job at least... replace it when it breaks! That could be tomorrow, in 2 years, or never. The replacement won't be an upgraded part... it will continue to always be a concern. Just budget for a tow whenever it does fail. Don't get turned off by a prior owner not going around replacing parts at an arbitrary interval. Look at the condition of the car and make your decision from there.

Definitely get a pre-purchase inspection by someone other than the seller. Do not, under any circumstances, believe what a dealer tells you about the condition of the car outside of a CPO program. Have an independent BMW mechanic check out all of the below, at least:

- Signs of damage (seems obvious). I once sold a car that was nearly totaled and had about 10 grand of work done to the front end, and the Carfax was clean. It drove like it had 10 grand of work done to the front end...
- Valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket (right on the front of the engine), and oil pan gasket. These are the common leak points on a 128i and they are about due to start leaking at this age.
- Shocks and struts - if original, there is a good chance they are shot and possibly blown/leaking.
- Tires - how old are they? How much tread is left? Hopefully they are not the stock run-flats, or if they are, hopefully they are shot and you can replace them with something good.
- Battery - check age/condition
- Check for stored error codes. If there are none, I would be skeptical - the seller may have cleared them.
- Fluid flushes are easy and cheap, I wouldn't focus too much on this. Just ask what the mechanic would charge to change all the fluids.

Whatever the indy says needs done to the car, subtract from your offer. But after you get the car, I don't think you necessarily need to go out and actually replace parts. The 128i is a pretty stout car and won't burn a hole in your wallet if you're only replacing/upgrading as things break. Do your fluid flushes and drive it like you stole it.

[clubracer6]

I’ll gladly do the water pump proactively. I had one die on my E36 at O’Hare in sub zero weather after arrived, was not a good time.

Looks like lost out on this deal, so the search continues.

[clubracer6]

Ps - yes I called the dealer and it was 230 or so with my BMWCCA discount. Not bad at all.

[parnet17]

There is a lock shop where I live that advertises 20% lower prices than dealers for key fobs. Don't know if it works for our cars or CA but you might want to check it out your local one.

[Gangplank]

Originally Posted by parnet17

There is a lock shop where I live that advertises 20% lower prices than dealers for key fobs. Don't know if it works for our cars or CA but you might want to check it out your local one.

I am pretty sure you can only get the key from the dealer. They are laser cut, chipped and coded to the vin. Have to show proof of ownership. Non-CA cost me $215 I think when I had to get a spare.

[Gangplank]

Originally Posted by clubracer6

I'll gladly do the water pump proactively. I had one die on my E36 at O'Hare in sub zero weather after arrived, was not a good time.

Looks like lost out on this deal, so the search continues.

Exactly. I did mine at 60k or do b/c I don't want to be stuck on a trip or side of the freeway in a storm.

[Gangplank]

Here ya go...

2011 BMW 128i LeMans Blue "Stripper" /w M Sport Package, 6 speed, BMW PE, 40.6k miles https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1561435

[Olgeezer1]

Originally Posted by Gangplank

Here ya go...

2011 BMW 128i LeMans Blue "Stripper" /w M Sport Package, 6 speed, BMW PE, 40.6k miles https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1561435

He's right. Very nice car, well maintained, very low miles. Manual trans, sport pkg., slick top - the very definition of a unicorn. Jump before someone else does.

[clubracer6]

Thanks all! What I'm looking for is more of a unicorn. A fully loaded one with sunroof, nav, premium sound and xenons. When I'm focused on saving weight, I'll have my HANS device on and be strapped into an actual race car!

[clubracer6]

Found another. Great oil changes, but original plugs, brake rotors and clutch at 109k miles on a 135i. Does have a new water pump though... I’m shocked by the original brake rotors!

[tock172]

Originally Posted by clubracer6

Found another. Great oil changes, but original plugs, brake rotors and clutch at 109k miles on a 135i. Does have a new water pump though... I’m shocked by the original brake rotors!

Both of my 135i's required a full front brake service in the 30,000 mile range. Pads and warped rotors. The rears don't seem to last particularly long either in my experience.

[clubracer6]

That seems more in line with how I drive too, which tells me the owner of this car must really take it easy on it.

[10"]

Originally Posted by rowsdower

Oil changes need to be done sooner than BMW recommends - pull the oil filler cap off and look under there with a flashlight for sludge. As long as oil changes were done appropriately, the rest of this would not turn me off from buying the car provided everything else was in order.

One thing you'll notice if you spend time on this forum is that people like to dump money into these cars seemingly for fun. One example is replacing water pumps before they fail because the collective opinion on this forum is that all waterpumps are on the brink of failure at all times. That's a $600 job at least... replace it when it breaks! That could be tomorrow, in 2 years, or never. The replacement won't be an upgraded part... it will continue to always be a concern. Just budget for a tow whenever it does fail. Don't get turned off by a prior owner not going around replacing parts at an arbitrary interval. Look at the condition of the car and make your decision from there.

Definitely get a pre-purchase inspection by someone other than the seller. Do not, under any circumstances, believe what a dealer tells you about the condition of the car outside of a CPO program. Have an independent BMW mechanic check out all of the below, at least:

- Signs of damage (seems obvious). I once sold a car that was nearly totaled and had about 10 grand of work done to the front end, and the Carfax was clean. It drove like it had 10 grand of work done to the front end...
- Valve cover gasket, oil filter housing gasket (right on the front of the engine), and oil pan gasket. These are the common leak points on a 128i and they are about due to start leaking at this age.
- Shocks and struts - if original, there is a good chance they are shot and possibly blown/leaking.
- Tires - how old are they? How much tread is left? Hopefully they are not the stock run-flats, or if they are, hopefully they are shot and you can replace them with something good.
- Battery - check age/condition
- Check for stored error codes. If there are none, I would be skeptical - the seller may have cleared them.
- Fluid flushes are easy and cheap, I wouldn't focus too much on this. Just ask what the mechanic would charge to change all the fluids.

Whatever the indy says needs done to the car, subtract from your offer. But after you get the car, I don't think you necessarily need to go out and actually replace parts. The 128i is a pretty stout car and won't burn a hole in your wallet if you're only replacing/upgrading as things break. Do your fluid flushes and drive it like you stole it.

It's silly to give that advice. Most of us replace the water pump at an interval of 60-80k miles because it's COMMON to fail around that time. Most of us don't want to be sitting at the roadside with a failed water pump. Perhaps you enjoy that type of sadomasochism but most don't. It's an electronically controlled part; and one of the only real "preventative" changes you can to prevent being stranded. There is no warning for this part failing; it mostly just fails suddenly. Well worth it to get it changed.

[10"]

In my almost 20 years of driving german cars my theory is they are not reliable unless they are actively maintained. Not just oil changes I think they need active and alert maintenance. Probably something closer to the mike miller old school maintenance guide.

You could buy this 128i and retroactively do all of those services but you won't get that wear and tear that occurred in the interval back.

The real question is; how long are you going to keep this car for? If you're keeping it for 5 years or less, just buy it. If you're buying it to keep for a looooong time; find a car better cared for.

[rowsdower]

Originally Posted by 10"

It's silly to give that advice. Most of us replace the water pump at an interval of 60-80k miles because it's COMMON to fail around that time. Most of us don't want to be sitting at the roadside with a failed water pump. Perhaps you enjoy that type of sadomasochism but most don't. It's an electronically controlled part; and one of the only real "preventative" changes you can to prevent being stranded. There is no warning for this part failing; it mostly just fails suddenly. Well worth it to get it changed.

It’s not silly, it’s pragmatic. The time you spend replacing the pump is also lost, just like the time lost on the side of the road waiting for AAA. The difference is you know for sure you’re losing that time but the person who does not replace their pump may not need to, and may not ever waste any time at a mechanic. And I get your point about the unpredictability of it - it may fail at an inopportune time. But I would argue that if your life is such that you are commonly in time-sensitive situations, you should not be driving a 5-10 year old German car. When I absolutely need to be somewhere, I take my brand new Toyota. The 1er is my reasonably reliable, probably gets me there, fun car.

My point is that it isn’t a wear item with x number of miles or a measurement you can take to determine its life. The 60-80k figure is mostly a guess, but there are many pumps that fail far lower and many that don’t fail, even on cars well over 100k. They fail between zero miles and never, and it’s not as though there is a more robust alternative that you can install. You’re installing the same flawed design, with the same high rate/erratic interval of failure. You will always be concerned about this if you are the type who gets concerned about this.

I would also point out that there are few threads on here about 128i failure. I don’t know how similar the designs and operating parameters are but the threads that do pop up are almost always 135i drivers.