BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      03-10-2021, 10:41 AM   #111
amg6975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spidertri View Post
Standard width or XL? VAC mounts? They look great.
Standard width, Bimmerworld floor plates, OMP side mounts, VAC harness mounts, hardware is all high grade stainless from McMaster.

I think the XL would fit if you removed the door cards. I'm a very average build guy, 5'11" 185, 34 waist and the standards fit like a glove.
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      03-10-2021, 05:42 PM   #112
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Just bought a circuit II and an hte-r400. Will report in on the them when they arrive
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      03-15-2021, 12:12 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amg6975 View Post
Standard width, Bimmerworld floor plates, OMP side mounts, VAC harness mounts, hardware is all high grade stainless from McMaster.

I think the XL would fit if you removed the door cards. I'm a very average build guy, 5'11" 185, 34 waist and the standards fit like a glove.
Surprised you managed to fit WRCs in there so easily when others have struggled with the EVO or have not managed to fit an EVOII. Are there any subtle differences in interior space between N54 and N55 cars? Does the N55 have a narrower transmission tunnel? I had written seats like the WRC off as I did not think they would fit.
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      03-15-2021, 02:40 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gneiss View Post
Surprised you managed to fit WRCs in there so easily when others have struggled with the EVO or have not managed to fit an EVOII. Are there any subtle differences in interior space between N54 and N55 cars? Does the N55 have a narrower transmission tunnel? I had written seats like the WRC off as I did not think they would fit.
That would be nuts if there was a difference in the interior volume of the chassis over the years. I hope that's not the case.

Maybe it has something to do with how tall the driver is since the door cards flare out more as they come to the B pillar. Keeping it close to the transmission tunnel will make a big difference too, the stock seats are pretty close to the tunnel.

We need to start a list of seat/side mount/floor adapter combos that work in the E82 chassis.
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      03-15-2021, 03:22 PM   #115
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I Just installed RaceTech RT4009 seats (standard width) using all VAC hardware (Floor and side mounts) and can confirm they fit great, there's plenty of clearance to the door cards.

Keep in mind you can slide the seat to the left or right a couple millimetres on the floor mount. If you're having trouble fitting a seat try sliding it towards the center of the car. This may be why some users say they have clearance while others don't.
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      03-19-2021, 09:22 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gneiss View Post
Surprised you managed to fit WRCs in there so easily when others have struggled with the EVO or have not managed to fit an EVOII. Are there any subtle differences in interior space between N54 and N55 cars? Does the N55 have a narrower transmission tunnel? I had written seats like the WRC off as I did not think they would fit.
There is no difference in the chassis of different years and actually no chassis difference to the 3 series. I'm not really sure why people have so much trouble.
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      03-20-2021, 06:28 PM   #117
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Got both seats. Seems like the door cards would need to come off for the Sparco Circuit II. The omp hte-r 400 fits perfectly but looks comically small. Surprisingly it's just the outside that's small as I fit fine in it. FYI I'm 6'0 185lbs. I'll be using the omp.
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      04-09-2021, 05:09 PM   #118
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Since this thread's been a good resource for me, I figure I might as well post my own experience.

I just wrapped up installing a pair of seats into my 2013. I'm a fairly large guy - 6'1, 250lbs, size 40 waist. All torso, too.

Parts used:
VAC floor mount brackets (e90/e92 version), and all the accoutrements.
Planted seat brackets
OMP WRC-R XL seats

The seats BARELY fit in the car. I had to remove the center console to get that extra few mm of clearance to shut the door. Even then, both seats push into the door card when the door is closed.



I'm not sure if I'd recommend the combo of parts I used. I had to notch the Planted rails in order to bolt them where I wanted them (the slot spacing is different than the VAC mounts). I started with a dremel and ended up buying a die grinder and a burr to save myself time and cursing.



And the bolts for the front were really hard to get to with the seat in place. I had to cut down a couple of different Allen keys to get them in those tight ass spaces.



This is how everything lined up with the seat where it needs (has?) to be:



And a shot of the passenger seat, which is set the same as the Driver's:



I'm still fiddling with my seating position - it's a bit to bolt-upright at the moment, and with a helmet on I'm still touching the headliner. Hoping I can get to the allen bolts on the trans tunnel side to maybe bring the front end up a bit. Any advice to getting the perfect driving position would be appreciated. I can control the car well where I'm sitting, but I'm afraid it'll be uncomfortable for long sessions, especially since the Hans pushes my head forward a bit.

Overall - this was a big pain in the ass. I'm pretty experienced mechanically and this was a really fiddly, annoying project.
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      04-10-2021, 09:32 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odj View Post
Since this thread's been a good resource for me, I figure I might as well post my own experience.

I just wrapped up installing a pair of seats into my 2013. I'm a fairly large guy - 6'1, 250lbs, size 40 waist. All torso, too.

Parts used:
VAC floor mount brackets (e90/e92 version), and all the accoutrements.
Planted seat brackets
OMP WRC-R XL seats

The seats BARELY fit in the car. I had to remove the center console to get that extra few mm of clearance to shut the door. Even then, both seats push into the door card when the door is closed.



I'm not sure if I'd recommend the combo of parts I used. I had to notch the Planted rails in order to bolt them where I wanted them (the slot spacing is different than the VAC mounts). I started with a dremel and ended up buying a die grinder and a burr to save myself time and cursing.



And the bolts for the front were really hard to get to with the seat in place. I had to cut down a couple of different Allen keys to get them in those tight ass spaces.



This is how everything lined up with the seat where it needs (has?) to be:



And a shot of the passenger seat, which is set the same as the Driver's:



I'm still fiddling with my seating position - it's a bit to bolt-upright at the moment, and with a helmet on I'm still touching the headliner. Hoping I can get to the allen bolts on the trans tunnel side to maybe bring the front end up a bit. Any advice to getting the perfect driving position would be appreciated. I can control the car well where I'm sitting, but I'm afraid it'll be uncomfortable for long sessions, especially since the Hans pushes my head forward a bit.

Overall - this was a big pain in the ass. I'm pretty experienced mechanically and this was a really fiddly, annoying project.
Thanks for sharing! I just installed RT4009 standard width in my car using all VAC hardware (E9x floor mounts and side mounts which I think are the same as the E82 stuff), and I probably uninstalled/installed these things about 7 or 8 times before I got the seating position right. I'm too tall for sliders so every adjustment needs the entire seat to come out. Happy with where it's at now, no problems even after a 2.5 hour drive.

What roll bar is that? I bought an Autopower one and it should be installed next week along with the harnesses. Yours looks a little more robust.
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      04-23-2021, 02:15 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris82 View Post
Thanks for sharing! I just installed RT4009 standard width in my car using all VAC hardware (E9x floor mounts and side mounts which I think are the same as the E82 stuff), and I probably uninstalled/installed these things about 7 or 8 times before I got the seating position right. I'm too tall for sliders so every adjustment needs the entire seat to come out. Happy with where it's at now, no problems even after a 2.5 hour drive.

What roll bar is that? I bought an Autopower one and it should be installed next week along with the harnesses. Yours looks a little more robust.
Sure thing. I hope it's of help to the community.

The bar is a VAC piece, and it's quite robust and fits very well. I'm really happy with it. Fortunately I was able to buy it second hand and saved quite a bit off the original price: https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac...e8x-p3691.aspx
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      06-21-2021, 10:25 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odj View Post
Since this thread's been a good resource for me, I figure I might as well post my own experience.

I just wrapped up installing a pair of seats into my 2013. I'm a fairly large guy - 6'1, 250lbs, size 40 waist. All torso, too.

Parts used:
VAC floor mount brackets (e90/e92 version), and all the accoutrements.
Planted seat brackets
OMP WRC-R XL seats

The seats BARELY fit in the car. I had to remove the center console to get that extra few mm of clearance to shut the door. Even then, both seats push into the door card when the door is closed.



I'm not sure if I'd recommend the combo of parts I used. I had to notch the Planted rails in order to bolt them where I wanted them (the slot spacing is different than the VAC mounts). I started with a dremel and ended up buying a die grinder and a burr to save myself time and cursing.



And the bolts for the front were really hard to get to with the seat in place. I had to cut down a couple of different Allen keys to get them in those tight ass spaces.



This is how everything lined up with the seat where it needs (has?) to be:



And a shot of the passenger seat, which is set the same as the Driver's:



I'm still fiddling with my seating position - it's a bit to bolt-upright at the moment, and with a helmet on I'm still touching the headliner. Hoping I can get to the allen bolts on the trans tunnel side to maybe bring the front end up a bit. Any advice to getting the perfect driving position would be appreciated. I can control the car well where I'm sitting, but I'm afraid it'll be uncomfortable for long sessions, especially since the Hans pushes my head forward a bit.

Overall - this was a big pain in the ass. I'm pretty experienced mechanically and this was a really fiddly, annoying project.
I would move the crotch belts forward so they are under your butt cheeks. You can place the VAC anti-sub mounting bracket on the under-side of the floor mount adapter. Ideally that anti-sub belt will be in the 20° range install of the current 45° (approx) angle it sits now with the anti-sub bracket at the back of the floor adapter.
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      06-24-2021, 09:13 AM   #122
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Popped a pair of Corbeau RRS in yesterday. Seats with rails are 25 pounds lighter each than oem seats. These are 7 pounds heavier than the FX1's, but I wanted to retain the reclining function, and that is by far worth than the extra weight.

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      05-03-2023, 10:08 PM   #123
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Figured I'd post pics and info for the community to gather more data.

Car: 2009 135I
Driver: 5'7", Pants Size 33" Weight 165lbs
Seats: Racetech RT4100
Seat Brackets: Racetech Steel Side Brackets (RTB2009S)
Seat Mounts: Vac Floor Mounts

The Racetech seats are 23.62 inches wide at its widest point and i have about 1-1/8" from the door panel. I fit nicely in the seat, I do have some room at my waist but about an inch on both sides. The seat is on the middle setting (4th out of 8) with a 5 degree set back. The mounting brackets are pushed as far in towards the tranny tunnel. I was able to utilize my stock seat belt buckle and bracket though I had to drill an additional hole so they would mount to the VAC floor mounts with two bolts. With the buckle bolted to the floor mounts the seat bracket is only allowed to go so far towards the tranny tunnel due to the buckle gas charge cylinder. I shorted the passenger buckle bracket so I could get the seat as for back as possible. My 5'4" lady can barely see over the dash. hahah

The codes i had to disable to remove the lights on the cluster after installing my seats. I used Bimmergeek Protools to code my faults out.

Seat Mat Sensor
OC3_1
Seat Occupancy detection
Disabled

Left Side-Airbag
(Sidebag_links_1)
Left side airbag 1
Disabled

Right Side-airbag
(Rightbag_recht_1)
Right side airbag 1
Disabled

Spsf_1_cd
Diver seat position sensor
Disabled

Spsbf1
Passenger seat position sensor
Disabled

Cheers.

1.


2.


3.


4.


5.
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Last edited by Yeee82; 05-04-2023 at 11:07 AM..
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      05-04-2023, 01:42 AM   #124
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I just finished installing Corbeau FX1 with Corbeau 1-series seat brackets. Everything bolted right in, except the inner seatbelt tensioner. The seat rails have a bracket to bolt this to, but the threads and diameter are completely different than the oem “fillister-head screw”. I ended up contacting them for the bolt specs, buying additional bolts, and fabbing a “sleeve” so the bolt would fit within the hole on the tensioner.

Other than that, the seats fit perfectly to the rails and rails perfectly to the floor. Since the seats do not decline, it’s a pain to get stuff in/out of back seat. The seating position is about 3.5” lower than where I was sitting in the oem non-sport seats. I’m only 5’6” so I thiught it would be an issue but I got used to it within a couple drives.

Coded out same things as the post above, with some challenges. Seems that coding does depend on order of doing things: code everything out first, then disconnect battery, then unplug seats, then Reconnect battery.
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      05-12-2023, 10:27 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odj View Post
Since this thread's been a good resource for me, I figure I might as well post my own experience.

I just wrapped up installing a pair of seats into my 2013. I'm a fairly large guy - 6'1, 250lbs, size 40 waist. All torso, too.

Parts used:
VAC floor mount brackets (e90/e92 version), and all the accoutrements.
Planted seat brackets
OMP WRC-R XL seats

The seats BARELY fit in the car. I had to remove the center console to get that extra few mm of clearance to shut the door. Even then, both seats push into the door card when the door is closed.



I'm not sure if I'd recommend the combo of parts I used. I had to notch the Planted rails in order to bolt them where I wanted them (the slot spacing is different than the VAC mounts). I started with a dremel and ended up buying a die grinder and a burr to save myself time and cursing.



And the bolts for the front were really hard to get to with the seat in place. I had to cut down a couple of different Allen keys to get them in those tight ass spaces.



This is how everything lined up with the seat where it needs (has?) to be:



And a shot of the passenger seat, which is set the same as the Driver's:



I'm still fiddling with my seating position - it's a bit to bolt-upright at the moment, and with a helmet on I'm still touching the headliner. Hoping I can get to the allen bolts on the trans tunnel side to maybe bring the front end up a bit. Any advice to getting the perfect driving position would be appreciated. I can control the car well where I'm sitting, but I'm afraid it'll be uncomfortable for long sessions, especially since the Hans pushes my head forward a bit.

Overall - this was a big pain in the ass. I'm pretty experienced mechanically and this was a really fiddly, annoying project.
Thx for your post. I just put a similar setup in my 135 and your last two sentences really are true...lol. I have trackdoorcards and the passenger seat still hits the door card, but not too bad. Plus I didn't have to take out the center console.
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      05-12-2023, 10:29 PM   #126
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For all, THANK YOU for this thread. I learned a lot from everyone before doing this upgrade. It was such a satisfying feeling to see the airbag light disappear after coding everything correctly. You guys are the best! Track day on the 19th. Guess I'll see if this was worth it then...
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