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02-27-2015, 07:35 AM | #23 | |
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
Last edited by dcaron9999; 02-27-2015 at 07:46 AM.. |
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02-27-2015, 02:27 PM | #24 |
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02-27-2015, 03:06 PM | #25 |
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2023 Jeep Wrangler ... [9.50] 2009 Yamaha V-Star [0.00] Cars 2-BMW, 2-FORD, ... [0.00] 2023 Ford Expeditio ... [0.00] 2020 Z4 M40i [10.00] 2022 BMW M4C [7.25] 1998 FORD Ranger 4X4 [0.00] |
IIRC they all run on get-flats.
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02-27-2015, 10:02 PM | #26 |
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Per Turner today, the E82 has nothing in common with the E36 or E46. I was wondering if I was endangering my chassis/rear sub frame with solids and asked if I need to reinforce the area before the install… They said absolutely! (only if you are North of 600 HP, otherwise you are completely fine)
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02-27-2015, 10:26 PM | #27 | |
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02-28-2015, 06:31 PM | #32 |
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Got a question on the topic of bushing modification. I plan to upgrade my RSFBs to M3 models when the summer rolls around, but my question is about the front suspension bushings, and that's this: everyone talks about upgrading their rear bushings, but no one has mentioned front bushings. These cars have 50/50 weight balance, which is a great thing, but when you make the rear bushings stiffer than the front bushings, won't that affect the way the car pitches and rolls and upset that 50/50 balance? Or is it a situation where the front bushings are A-OK 100% and don't really need any modification to begin with?
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Model: '08 135i N54 6AT Coupe ///M Sport - E85 + 93 = E30
Mods: AA DPs + Gen I - BMS JB4 (Race + Map 2) + DCI + OCC - Cobb CP - ///M RSFB + Front Control Arms - Koni Yellow - Swift Spec R - Vorshlag camber plates - MPSS 225/255 - x-ph Angel Eyes 160w |
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02-28-2015, 06:58 PM | #33 |
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Im pretty sure the front subframe is bolted directly to the chassis without bushings.
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02-28-2015, 08:55 PM | #34 | |
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The minute I replaced the RunFlats with sticker Extreme Performance Tires (RE-11 at the time), I noticed the exagerated rear end sway when taking curves. I first did camber plates and M3 front control arms (come with larger/stiffer bushings), and eventually DIY'ed the M3 rear subframe bushings. Both of these modifications made a large impact to the handling. The rear bushings made the largest difference, even on stock dampers + springs. Notice all the openings in the stock bushing, versus a solid M3 bushing. Pic of stock bushings ... Pic of M3 bushings ...
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
Last edited by dcaron9999; 02-28-2015 at 09:19 PM.. |
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02-28-2015, 09:29 PM | #35 |
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This is correct, the front subframe does bolt to the chassis without any bushings. But many of us have upgraded to the M3 front control arms in addition to the M3 rear subframe bushings, and that will help the performance also. One of the M3 arms goes with a stiffer rubber bushing, and the other one has a solid bearing instead of the OE rubber bushing, plus it's a bit longer for extra camber.
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03-01-2015, 02:35 AM | #36 |
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For all of you DIY'ers of this mod out there, are you renting the bushing removal tool from somewhere or are you making some homemade bushing tool? I only ask because I called hpashop but don't feel like going on the waiting list. I've seen a few tools on YouTube but they've been for other cars and I'd kind of like to know what you guys have actually used to remove them.
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03-01-2015, 01:50 PM | #37 | |
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Would have been much faster with the proper tool. I was in a unique situation. Our car got hit in the right rear corner, so it was in my works body shop. Our dealership group body shop is the shop for Honda, Acura, MB and BMW. The Acura techs do all the mechanical work for them. So, I was the one doing the insurance repair work to the suspension. The right rear suspension had to be replaced, so instead of using the stocks parts, I installed the M3 arms and did the M3 bushings at the same time. Had to lower the subframe anyways. Took me about 4 hours or so to do them. The hard part is getting the old bushings out. Putting in the new ones was much easier. |
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03-03-2015, 08:58 PM | #38 | |
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It was a P-I-T-A puliing the old bushings out. I broke and stripped countless number of washers bolts and threaded rods. Thank god I was using an electric impact gun, because extreme forces are required to remove the old bushings out and insert the new. Do you yourself a favor, and buy 5/8" threaded rods. Anything smaller (1/2") will strip or break with the tremendous force required to remove the bushings. Also keep lubricating your threaded rods with spray lube. Ditto for the four subframe sleeves, and bushings. Heating the sleeves with a torch did not help much. Assuming you are not remoiving the subframe from the car, I recommend you loosen up the four main bushing bolts, to help you maneuver the subframe at the rear center point with one jack, and raise and lower one of the four corners you are working on with the other jack. You will need two quality jacks, as you will have to continuously re-adjust to gain enough space between frame of car, and subframe. Also the rear brake lines need to be disconnected. Get yourself a bottle or two of your favorite brake fluid + pressure bleeder before starting, as you will want to bleed your lines after opening the brake lines. Job took me about 12 hours, and three trips to the hardware store. What a bitch of a job. Now I understand why the shops wanted $800-$1000 for this. Took the car to the track a little later with the new M3 bushing installed. Nice difference in the curves and especially through the esses, where weight is shifted rapidly from side to side. Floating and vague movement is greatly reduced. The car behaves much better over bumps when taking high speed turns. On the street, it makes my 135i back end firmer, and more planted. Overall, this is a great mod, and this DIY is worth the sweating and cursing.
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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03-03-2015, 10:26 PM | #39 |
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What is the perceived effect of putting M3 front control arms in? Less understeer into a turn? Is this something that someone who does not track their car would notice?
Also, could someone show me a trusted place to buy M3 RSFBs and maybe control arms if I decide? Last edited by BMW135pls; 03-03-2015 at 10:36 PM.. |
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03-03-2015, 11:58 PM | #40 |
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http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...ion/M_Upgrade/
Best source for the parts. I personally would say just from the street I can feel the difference in the front arms. Quicker turn in, less under steer, more neg camber, better tire wear. I bought the TRW ones... |
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03-04-2015, 06:37 AM | #41 | |
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Excuse me for being annoying, but this is the correct one for an N54 right? It looks different than the ones people have linked photos to in the thread. http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...ade/ES1844489/ It's only $28 so I assume it's only one bushing and not a complete set? I need two of them?
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Model: '08 135i N54 6AT Coupe ///M Sport - E85 + 93 = E30
Mods: AA DPs + Gen I - BMS JB4 (Race + Map 2) + DCI + OCC - Cobb CP - ///M RSFB + Front Control Arms - Koni Yellow - Swift Spec R - Vorshlag camber plates - MPSS 225/255 - x-ph Angel Eyes 160w |
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03-04-2015, 06:46 AM | #42 | ||
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That is the rear differential bushing, not the subframe. You need 2 of these: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...frame/ES57295/ And 2 of these: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...frame/ES57296/ Quote:
The front arms is the first thing I did to my suspension, very highly recommended. Car feels much better with them in. And the increase in front camber means you can install wider front tires without rubbing. Front suspension M3 arms: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...ade/ES2586480/ Then last on the list, if doing the rear subframe bushings, is to install the rear upper arms from an M3. Recommend doing these at the sme time as the RSFB's, as you will have the subframe lowered anyways, makes them much easier to change, and just do one alignment afterwards. http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...ade/ES2622633/ Last edited by MightyMouseTech; 03-04-2015 at 06:54 AM.. |
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