Ex-pressed metal 1M rear fenders

[Jbam9]

Originally Posted by Burnout

First off the workmanship and crafting looks top notch, amazing job!!

What region of the inner wheel well patch would need a different profile to allow the liners to fit? Does it need to be more set inwards?

Thanks! I believe I slightly angled the patch downwards, instead of going straight out (horizontal) if that makes sense. This wouldn't be an issue if I simply test fit the fender liners before welding in the patch, but being the first one to do this project I was bound to make mistakes. The fender liner hits the patch right at the peak of the liner, where it would be furthest away from the axle. So my thought is to heat up the liner and see if I can get it to sort of remold around the new wheel arch. but if that fails, I'll get a large Kydex sheet and truly heat form custom liners

[Jbam9]

Originally Posted by fe1rx

Really fantastic and inspirational work Jbam9 . Thanks for sharing.

Regarding the missing studs, if you haven't resolved them yet, you might want to consider the approach I took on my Cayman to replace a few of the underbody attaching studs that had broken. The attached pictures should be clear, but I used Porsche's p/n 9A7 007 517 00 4.8 x 19 tapping screw as a starting point, silver brazed to a stainless washer, and then adhesive bonded to the vehicle.

The adhesive I used is intended for applications like this. Those studs are still standing 5 years on.

Attachment 3898363
Attachment 3898364
Attachment 3898398

This looks fantastic! I think I might just do this same thing, looks much better than the rivet studs. I have some extra 3M panel bond which would be perfect for this application. Thanks for the info fe1rx!

[Burnout]

Gotcha I can picture what you mean from a cross sectional view looking fore-aft, ie at the lip of the fender the patch needs enough height for the liner.

We’re all so greatful for you being the one to prototype these, it really does transform the budget Outlook to do the conversion!

[Jbam9]

Took a bit of a break, life has been hectic lately but I finally got that lower plastic bit which separates the interior of the frame rail from the interior of the quarter panel replaced. I used 1/4" ABS sheet I had lying around and some window and door spray foam to get it in there. Using an automotive grade 2-part expanding foam would've been the better choice here, but this stuff should be okay as well- we are simply trying to emulate what the factory did and get the area sealed off again.



On the left you can see the open space on the driver side where I had to remove the OEM piece to make room for welding and sealing. You can also notice how dirty it is down in the frame rail area compared to above it- this partition is definitely warranted. The idea of the ABS sheet + spray foam seems sketchy, but you can see from the remaining piece that that's exactly how BMW did it originally. The right side shows the passenger side after I got the ABS sheet foamed in place. I used a bit much, but I have minimal experience with this stuff and wasn't expecting as much expansion as I ended up with xD Either way nobody will ever see it, and it does the job it needs to do, so I'm happy with it. At this point I can finally put the interior panels back on, and just have the bodywork & paint left to do (+ custom/modified wheel liners)

[Ziggy]

Great job so far, I hope the Florida cold temps are not slowing you down
I also purchased and waiting for the arrival of the flares. I will be looking for body shop or individual in Chicagoland are to take on this job. I don't have time, skills or patience to do it myself. In regard to the wheels, I'm planning on getting 18x10.5" with 40 mm offset. That should fit without any issues or spacers. I will double check that once it's little warmer and I can get my car on the lift again. Now I'm running the 18x9.5" with 57 mm offset with OEM fenders. My plan is to run 285 or 295 tires on all 4 corners. There's only couple 200 TW tires in those sizes.