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      04-10-2018, 01:28 PM   #89
ajsmithvmi
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Very cool. I have Autobahn the weekend before Heartland in May, so I'll probably look at the July date instead.

I pulled the trigger on a brake upgrade. Not a huge one - going to the 335i rotors and calipers, but it should give me a 20% increase in rotor to the front, going from a 338x26 to a 348x30 rotor. Also going to rework my ducting so it actually...works.

Best part is when I sell my brembo calipers I should come out about $200 ahead!
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      04-11-2018, 07:48 AM   #90
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$200 toward some sort of shifting device perhaps?

If you are interested, check out our SCCA schedule also. All midwest tracks.
https://www.dmvrscca.org/club-trials-schedule/

Some are TT only, some are TT/PDX (HPDE).
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      04-11-2018, 01:18 PM   #91
ajsmithvmi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
$200 toward some sort of shifting device perhaps?

If you are interested, check out our SCCA schedule also. All midwest tracks.
https://www.dmvrscca.org/club-trials-schedule/

Some are TT only, some are TT/PDX (HPDE).
It looks like I will be shooting for Heartland Park in July!
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      04-18-2018, 10:33 PM   #92
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Well, it took a full week to figure out the f$@& was wrong with this stupid car. Turns out the upstream 456 cat was clogged. There are actually two elements, and the top one melted into the bottom. It just couldn’t breathe. So I took them off today, and emptied them out, and it off to mid o tomorrow. Also got the gc camber plates in. Haven’t measured camber yet, but I will do a quick alignment before I leave tomorrow. Definitely should be in the range I am looking for though.
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      04-24-2018, 12:40 PM   #93
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Mid-Ohio update. Car ran great! I had plenty of power, and not a single hiccup all weekend. A welcome change to the last two events.

I still have some alignment work to do, and shock tuning. I am not used to the AST shocks at all, and need to do a solid test day to really get a feel for what I am doing.

As far as the alignment, I do not think I am at the camber measurement I need yet. I may have to do some drastic work to get to where I need to be. Bimmerworld has been literally zero help help to me, other than wasting money...I had a whole speal about this, but, meh. Bottom line, BW left me hanging, and I will not be using anything from them anymore. On the bright side, I will be getting some tools to make this stuff myself.

On to results...
We ran the pro course saturday, and club course sunday. Saturday went pretty well. I got second (seven entries) with a 1:39.701, and team Cindric got me with a 1:39.630. Pretty close, but not quite.
Sunday, was pretty crappy results wise for me. 1:42.549 (4th overall) I did not do well first thing, drove like a total newb, almost ass packed an Elise, and went four off in the keyhole. Later, after calming down a bit, I could not get a clean session in. I was late to grid once, and had to start at the back, then on my last session, do or die time, one of the slower guys gridded in front of me, usually not a big deal, but he killed my momentum coming out of the carousel on lap 1, so that lap was shot. I got by him right away, and focused on staying smooth. Got a hell of a run out of the carousel to start my second lap, nailed 1, and the bus stop, nailed the keyhole, and my lap timer was showing a 1:40 something. I am thinking win at this point. I push though the esses and turn 9, and didn't really loose or gain anything there. Up thorough thunder valley, I am focused on the carousel, as that is what will make or break the lap. There is a huge cloud of dust and steam at the exit of the carousel, and yellow flags everywhere. I hesitate for a second. Mustang is off, and hit the wall. Black flagged session, no opportunity to go out again.

Anyway, it was Mid Ohio, which is where I want to go when I die, and I had a blast. The car got me there, ran all weekend, and got me home, and I got to see some of the folks that I don't get to regularly, so it was still a win.

I took some video, but somehow deleted it. Stupid.
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      04-24-2018, 01:41 PM   #94
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Check out SPL Parts. I believe they are making a camber arm set, @spxxx should know more. What about the BW arms did you not like? Not enough negative camber?
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      04-25-2018, 06:58 AM   #95
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Not enough negative camber, (They start out at non-M length, and can adjust to M length) and the droop of the suspension is severely limited. It is almost impossible to keep the inside front down (not that big of a deal normally) but I feel like it loads the outside faster and harder than normal, because of the abruptness of it.
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      04-25-2018, 07:54 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
Not enough negative camber, (They start out at non-M length, and can adjust to M length) and the droop of the suspension is severely limited. It is almost impossible to keep the inside front down (not that big of a deal normally) but I feel like it loads the outside faster and harder than normal, because of the abruptness of it.
How much droop do you actually have? I am sure you've measured? And, you are running like 600lb (Correction: 450lb) out back, right? That is basically stock and will result in lots of rear squat causing the front to lift (probably enough squat where you're riding the rear bump-stops). Then up front you've got 600% stiffer springs than stock and probably ~1" of droop travel... it makes sense that you're lifting front tires with that suspension setup.

I wouldn't want to be adding more negative camber with the control arm... anything past M length and you're moving past a more ideal suspension geometry. Why not slot the camber plate more?

Last edited by bbnks2; 04-25-2018 at 08:32 AM..
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      04-25-2018, 08:21 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
Not enough negative camber, (They start out at non-M length, and can adjust to M length) and the droop of the suspension is severely limited. It is almost impossible to keep the inside front down (not that big of a deal normally) but I feel like it loads the outside faster and harder than normal, because of the abruptness of it.
Randy,

You might want to reach out to John V and get a custom sent of CA bushings made. You'd gain another -.5 more from it. Next option would be custom camber plates.
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      04-25-2018, 08:43 AM   #98
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Would something like this worK?
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      04-25-2018, 09:23 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mabrahams View Post
Randy,

You might want to reach out to John V and get a custom sent of CA bushings made. You'd gain another -.5 more from it. Next option would be custom camber plates.
I actually thought about this, and it is essentially what I am doing with the rods/sphericals. The problem is that the BW kit is just not long enough.

Basically my solution is buying more hex rod, and cutting it to the lengths I want, drilling and tapping it for the rod ends, and see where I am at then.
My feeling is that BW should have done this for me, but they keep acting like it is impossible/expensive.
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      04-25-2018, 09:25 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
How much droop do you actually have? I am sure you've measured? And, you are running like 600lb (Correction: 450lb) out back, right? That is basically stock and will result in lots of rear squat causing the front to lift (probably enough squat where you're riding the rear bump-stops). Then up front you've got 600% stiffer springs than stock and probably ~1" of droop travel... it makes sense that you're lifting front tires with that suspension setup.

I wouldn't want to be adding more negative camber with the control arm... anything past M length and you're moving past a more ideal suspension geometry. Why not slot the camber plate more?
Did not measure, guessing droop is less than 1/4 inch. I have 450 lb rear springs. They are true coil over, not inboard mounted. Not really any rear squat at all. I am no where near bump stops on the rear, and honestly, I need more articulation for the torsen diff. I really should have gone mechanical.
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Last edited by bionicbelly; 04-25-2018 at 10:11 AM..
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      04-25-2018, 09:45 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
Did not measure, guessing droop is less than 1/4 inch. I have 450 lb rear springs. They are true coil over, not inboard mounted. Not really any rear squat at all.
Gotcha so that would be roughly the same as the stock location running a 1000lb spring. Would help to measure out some of this stuff because 1/4" droops doesn't sound right at all unless you've got a lot of preload on the front spring.

You might be surprised by just how much the car is still squatting and rolling in the rear (zip tie the strut). I was bottoming my struts with 1000lb springs and over 2" of bump travel in the rear. I recently dialed in more preload on my rear springs to gain some bump travel and stay off the bump stops. Either way, I'd be pulling front tires off the ground like crazy, especially so with an upgraded front sway, if I had that little droop up front. Then again, it doesn't matter much if the inside front is lifting in roll. I'd be more concerned if the outside front was lifting on corner exit causing the front-end to wash out/understeer.

Last edited by bbnks2; 04-25-2018 at 10:30 AM..
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      05-29-2018, 07:35 AM   #102
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Been awhile, so I thought I would update this. Had two weekends since the Mid-O event.
I ran Iowa speedway two weeks ago, and Heartland park this weekend. Car felt good and was fast, but now I am having trouble with front wheel bearings. One actually broke at IS, ending my day early. Whole front hub sheared off, and I had to get towed off by the wrecker. But, I ended up running low 54 second laps. I had a 53 in there for sure, but IS is where I rolled my car last year, and I was being careful. Got second in class (11 cars in class) and lost to my good friend Zach by a couple of tenths. Can't be upset with that.
Topeka this weekend was also frustrating. The other wheel bearing decided to loosen up, and since I didn't want to run around trying to find one, I took it easy, and only did one session a day. Blistering hot, so overall, times were down, but I ran a 1:56.7 I was on pace for a 55, but had a couple of bobbles in the last set of turns. I could have stayed out and gotten it, but I was really worried about the wheel falling off again.

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      06-03-2018, 05:57 AM   #103
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How many miles are on the car? Surprised about the wheel bearing.
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      06-04-2018, 07:18 AM   #104
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Quote:
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How many miles are on the car? Surprised about the wheel bearing.
~65k. Yeah, it is weird. The ones that were on the car when I got it lasted one event. I replaced with cheap crap, so I guess I should have seen it coming. Hoping that with some high quality bearings this problem will go away.
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      06-05-2018, 01:16 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
~65k. Yeah, it is weird. The ones that were on the car when I got it lasted one event. I replaced with cheap crap, so I guess I should have seen it coming. Hoping that with some high quality bearings this problem will go away.
Regardless of the brand of bearings, when doing track work, it's always a good idea to pull them apart clean out the cheap crummy grease, and repack it with the high quality grease of your choosing.

It's a big help in the Miata world since on RComps they eat front bearings.
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      06-05-2018, 10:08 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox View Post
Regardless of the brand of bearings, when doing track work, it's always a good idea to pull them apart clean out the cheap crummy grease, and repack it with the high quality grease of your choosing.

It's a big help in the Miata world since on RComps they eat front bearings.
I was not aware that this could happen. I assumed they were sealed, and not serviceable at all. The back cover will come off?
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      06-06-2018, 08:52 AM   #107
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I was not aware that this could happen. I assumed they were sealed, and not serviceable at all. The back cover will come off?
"Technically" they aren't supposed to be serviceable, but you can drive out to the bearing races and carefully remove the ball bearing cage, which in Miata's are plastic.

It's such a big problem in the Miata world, there are companies that sell, upgraded and rebuilt bearings with higher quality grease and I'm wanting to say a tighter "roundness spec" on the balls themselves.

A few different companies are actually working on roller bearing setups up front.

https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...ont-hub-75372/

Here's an example of how they do it on Miata's.
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      06-15-2018, 12:38 PM   #108
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What are the next few events on the calendar for you? I won't make it to Topeka in July, but I will probably be at the NASA event at Autobahn in August.
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      06-15-2018, 12:49 PM   #109
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What are the next few events on the calendar for you? I won't make it to Topeka in July, but I will probably be at the NASA event at Autobahn in August.
I am planning two weekends at HPT in July. Nasa is the second weekend, and SCCA Mid Div TT is the third. After that, I will be at both NASA GL events at autobahn, and a trip down to hallet in sept with SCCA, NASA nationals at COTA, and another SCCA TT at RPM.
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      06-15-2018, 01:03 PM   #110
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I am planning two weekends at HPT in July. Nasa is the second weekend, and SCCA Mid Div TT is the third. After that, I will be at both NASA GL events at autobahn, and a trip down to hallet in sept with SCCA, NASA nationals at COTA, and another SCCA TT at RPM.
Very cool so hopefully I'll see you at Autobahn. I recently received an Apex Track Coach as a gift and used it at Autobahn. It helped me drop 2 seconds on the north course. I have an extra baseplate now also so if you want to give it a try I'd be interested in your feedback on it.
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