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      09-15-2014, 12:31 PM   #1
DougiesGoinDeep
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Multiple Misfire Codes - Sparkplugs, Coils, HPFP?

I have been doing some research and it seems every thread has a difference answer. I am hoping if I lay everything out here someone else will be able to point me in the right direction.

I started the car yesterday and it was idling very rough, SES light comes on, really rough power while driving for the first couple minutes. Pull over, shut it off for a few minutes, turn it back on and it seems basically normal. Did a short and long drive later that day and nothing unusual other than the SES light still on.

Started the car up again today, same exact thing, except this time it stalled a few times. Turned it off and back on again, seemed to run smoother but not perfect. Went for another drive later in the day (just now) and it seemed normal except for the light.

The drive just now was to the go Autozone to read the codes. P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303. Lots of misfires.

So what I am looking at hear? HPFP? Sparkplugs? Coil?

Some more detail that may or may not help:
-new to me 2010 135i with Dinan S2 tune and 30,000 miles
-the last two mornings were on the cooler side, in the 50's (Boston)
-the car has never needed (according the previous owner and service records) anything replace, sparkplugs, coils, HPFP, etc.

Thanks in advance.
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      09-15-2014, 12:58 PM   #2
JM35
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I had a bunch of similar misfires. Pull your plugs and coils and check them out, if they look foul, replace them. I would start with plugs just because coils are fairly expensive and then try plugs next. The Spark Plugs should last you around 60k miles but since you are running a Dinan tune it is very likely that they have gone bad after only 30k miles.

Since none of it has been changed, pull the plugs and coils and check it out.
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      09-15-2014, 03:57 PM   #3
DougiesGoinDeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JM35 View Post
I had a bunch of similar misfires. Pull your plugs and coils and check them out, if they look foul, replace them. I would start with plugs just because coils are fairly expensive and then try plugs next. The Spark Plugs should last you around 60k miles but since you are running a Dinan tune it is very likely that they have gone bad after only 30k miles.

Since none of it has been changed, pull the plugs and coils and check it out.
Thanks. I will give that a shot.
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      09-27-2014, 06:13 PM   #4
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So, many many hours later...

I started changing the spark plugs. Noticed a lot of oil on one of them (3, plus the rest looked really bad) and then found a crack in the valve cover nearby. I replaced the valve cover (with a new gasket), put everything back together, started it up and it immediately sounded awful, idled rough, and the engine symbol came on. I checked the engine and noticed I forgot to plug in the connector for fuel injector 6. I plugged it in, started it again, and it sounded normal. Cleared the codes but they did not go away*. Drove for 5-10 minutes, felt good. Drove home (a couple miles) still felt good. Started it up today and after about 30 seconds of idling in the driveway it starts getting very rough. I shut it down.

*I have codes for P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, and P0206. P0206 is new from forgetting to plug in the 6th injector (it came up as soon as I checked after forgetting to plug it in and has not gone away, after plugging it back in). The others are exactly the same as before. I am not convinced that the code reader I am using is clearing the codes. Is there any trick to it? It does not even read the codes without the engine actually running. Same with the code reader I tried at autozone. I have yet to see the SES light actually turn off at any point.

I switched the #6 coil with #1 just to see if a new code popped up, it did not, just the same ones above.

Any suggestions on what to try next?
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      09-30-2014, 06:58 PM   #5
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I can't see your profile but if it is an N52, that sounds similar to what I had on my wife's car. Intermittent rough idling, stalling, etc. I didn't have misfire codes tho, I had a eccentric shaft sensor intermittent failure. Turned out to be that the sensor got fouled by oil. If you had a cracked valve cover, I would check that. The sensor is towards the front of the car on the valve cover. There is a circular gasket for it. If it is seeping oil, this might be a lead...
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      09-30-2014, 08:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alow View Post
I can't see your profile but if it is an N52, that sounds similar to what I had on my wife's car. Intermittent rough idling, stalling, etc. I didn't have misfire codes tho, I had a eccentric shaft sensor intermittent failure. Turned out to be that the sensor got fouled by oil. If you had a cracked valve cover, I would check that. The sensor is towards the front of the car on the valve cover. There is a circular gasket for it. If it is seeping oil, this might be a lead...
It is an N54. I'll check out that sensor. The only noticeable oil leakage was in the center, near cylinder 3.

I cleared the codes today with a different code reader. Waiting for the check engine light to come back on. Didn't come on after a bunch of short drives today.
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      10-04-2014, 03:03 PM   #7
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Put the new coils in. Seemed OK for a day. Today I started it up, got a half mile down the road, and the rough idle and lack of power came back, check engine light on. Turned the car off then back on, check engine light went away, rough idle seemed better/gone. I drove right home anyways and have not driven since.

See attached for the fault log from the BMWhat app I just got. Misfired in cylinder 1 and 3 (was 1, 2, and 3 all the previous times before I replaced the plugs and coils).

What's next, fuel injectors?
Attached Files
File Type: txt FaultReport_BMWhat.txt (2.0 KB, 409 views)
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      10-11-2014, 03:27 PM   #8
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Probably Injector. The oil is probably from a leaky valve cover.
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      10-11-2014, 04:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougiesGoinDeep View Post
I have been doing some research and it seems every thread has a difference answer. I am hoping if I lay everything out here someone else will be able to point me in the right direction.

I started the car yesterday and it was idling very rough, SES light comes on, really rough power while driving for the first couple minutes. Pull over, shut it off for a few minutes, turn it back on and it seems basically normal. Did a short and long drive later that day and nothing unusual other than the SES light still on.

Started the car up again today, same exact thing, except this time it stalled a few times. Turned it off and back on again, seemed to run smoother but not perfect. Went for another drive later in the day (just now) and it seemed normal except for the light.

The drive just now was to the go Autozone to read the codes. P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303. Lots of misfires.

So what I am looking at hear? HPFP? Sparkplugs? Coil?

Some more detail that may or may not help:
-new to me 2010 135i with Dinan S2 tune and 30,000 miles
-the last two mornings were on the cooler side, in the 50's (Boston)
-the car has never needed (according the previous owner and service records) anything replace, sparkplugs, coils, HPFP, etc.

Thanks in advance.

First, you need a good code reader that can "see" shadow codes. Not just one that can see ODBII codes. With a generic code reader... you won't be able to see the BMW shadow codes.

Get a Bav Tech cable or a good cheap way is with a Can/Bus OBDII blue tooth dongle, like: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084Y8HJA/...I3A0RCM5QL5QNM


...Then use an app like Torque on your smart phone.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...l.torque&hl=en

Second, since your car has a tune(Dinan) the spark plugs should be replaced every ~25K or so. BMW says to change them every 45K miles for cars with no tune(stock). 1M's plugs get changed every 30K. So with a tune you should change the plugs every 20 to 25K miles. Did you use BMW bought spark plugs? Some guys had chased their tail when using aftermarket plugs. Only use BMW plugs, that have BMW/Bosch on the ceramic part of the plug.

Third, when you replaced your valve cover gasket - did you check the plastic valve cover for cracks? They are prone to cracking over time. Check out this thread bellow...

Oil leak, may need a new valve cover gasket
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1008895


Your engine could also have carbon build up on the intake valves. But that would not throw an engine check light code.

Long cranks/cold starts, stalling, rough idle is classic HPFP failure. Has the HPFP ever been replaced?
HPFP failure FAQ!
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=333519



These pdf's might be of interest. Have you checked with a dealer for any open recalls ? Your problem really sounds like classic HPFP to me.
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      10-25-2014, 12:00 PM   #10
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Any updates on this?

I actually have the same issue, on a 2010 135, with a Dinan S2 tune as well. My valve cover was replaced about four months ago because a crack was found causing a massive oil leak. Since then, my car began misfiring about a month ago in which prompted me to get a walnut blasting done at a reliable tuning shop nearby. After the blasting, I still had the misfire and being long over due, I changed the spark plugs.

I noticed that spark plugs 1 and 2 ( starting at front bumper) were covered in oil; the other 4 were dry. Took the car out for a drive after putting everything back together and it felt like the power came back ......but I can faintly feel it start to degrade/stutter the more I drive it.

Codes: 29CD, 29CF, 29CC, 29D0, 29D1, and 29D9

I'll be taking it back to the dealership to check the valve cover for a leak and hopefully get it covered under warranty, if thats the issue. I'll provide any updates when i have them, but can anyone else provide some more insight or suggestions?
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      10-25-2014, 01:24 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greyhound007 View Post
Any updates on this?

I actually have the same issue, on a 2010 135, with a Dinan S2 tune as well. My valve cover was replaced about four months ago because a crack was found causing a massive oil leak. Since then, my car began misfiring about a month ago in which prompted me to get a walnut blasting done at a reliable tuning shop nearby. After the blasting, I still had the misfire and being long over due, I changed the spark plugs.

I noticed that spark plugs 1 and 2 ( starting at front bumper) were covered in oil; the other 4 were dry. Took the car out for a drive after putting everything back together and it felt like the power came back ......but I can faintly feel it start to degrade/stutter the more I drive it.

Codes: 29CD, 29CF, 29CC, 29D0, 29D1, and 29D9

I'll be taking it back to the dealership to check the valve cover for a leak and hopefully get it covered under warranty, if thats the issue. I'll provide any updates when i have them, but can anyone else provide some more insight or suggestions?
Your circumstances sound different. When I replaced my coils, spark plugs, and valve cover the misfires did not go away. The dealer replaced the injectors (95% free of charge) and that finally resolved the issues.
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      10-29-2014, 09:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougiesGoinDeep View Post
Your circumstances sound different. When I replaced my coils, spark plugs, and valve cover the misfires did not go away. The dealer replaced the injectors (95% free of charge) and that finally resolved the issues.
Did you have any codes come up?
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      10-29-2014, 10:52 PM   #13
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i just went through a similar quandary, maybe my experience will help someone...

62k miles, car stumbling under acceleration, which has steadily gotten worse but now the engine wouldn't pull smooth at all, obviously misfiring. car would run for a bit then engine would lose power and have a pretty good vibration. if i shut it off an back on, sometimes it would fire all 6 again and be smooth.

figured i'd replace the plugs since the dealer didn't do that at 45k as they should have, no change. finally threw the CEL - cleared the code (only code was limp (?) P312E). drove it again to see what to replace next... WOT seemed to have no impact (didn't get worse) so I assumed it was NOT coils - kept driving to get a P0306, and P0206 cylinder 6 misfire, cylinder 6 injector fault. the dealer said replace all 3 of bank 2 injectors at least, but probably all 6. this is after their HPFP campaign which replaced 3 faulty injectors 20k miles ago.

basically these engines have poorly designed injectors that don't last, it's an obvious next step in troubleshooting, hopefully my experience helps you.

also, fwiw - i also had some oil in my cylinder 3 coil/plug well, but it looked clean and new, my guess is that it was spilled during an oil change and has been sitting there since. right above cylinder 3 is the fill port for the oil. i cleaned it out really well before pulling the plug out and before putting another in so i didn't foul up the new plugs.

count yourself lucky if you are still under warranty because afterwards you will be wondering why there is no class action lawsuit on these injectors when they go out 10k miles after the warranty, and 20k after warranty replacement.

6 new injectors on the way ($950), not paying the dealership $2600 for that simple (dis)service. i expect that will get me running on all 6 again.

Last edited by kfiducia; 10-29-2014 at 10:59 PM.
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      10-30-2014, 08:09 AM   #14
DougiesGoinDeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greyhound007 View Post
Did you have any codes come up?
Multiple misfires, usually on cylinders 1-3.
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      04-13-2016, 01:43 PM   #15
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So did replacing the injectors fix your problem?? what was the part number for your old injectors if you know?
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      04-13-2016, 02:36 PM   #16
DougiesGoinDeep
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Yes. I don't know what the old part number was.
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