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      03-11-2019, 09:48 AM   #1
Soterios
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Clearence gained by rolling/pulling fenders

Maybe this has been covered, but searching key words hasn't turned anything up.


I just installed some Apex Arc8s and have some serious rear rubbing. I know I'm out of spec for what Apex says won't rub, but I think the fitment is about perfect. I plan on dropping the car an inch or so with some Eibach Pro springs as well, so I'm kind of looking for clearance gains with rolling (and possibly pulling) the fenders.

I'm running the 8.5 +45 up front with 235 Nitto NT05s and 9.5 +58 in the rear with an additional 10mm spacer with 265 Nitto NT05s.

The front doesn't rub currently, but I imagine it will if I drop it an inch. The rear will pressumably get even worse after a drop.

Has anyone run similar offsets (9.5 +48 rear) with a lowered car and made the clearance work?

Thanks in advance.
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      03-11-2019, 02:52 PM   #2
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I'm at 18x9.5 et 40 and run 245/35/18, cobb springs with rolled fenders and I just rub a tiny bit on large bumps.
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      03-11-2019, 03:26 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smrtypants44 View Post
I'm at 18x9.5 et 40 and run 245/35/18, cobb springs with rolled fenders and I just rub a tiny bit on large bumps.
ET 40 and 245s put you in similar ballpark to my 'width'. Thank you.

Did you have them 'pulled' at all, or just rolled?
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      03-11-2019, 03:59 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soterios View Post
ET 40 and 245s put you in similar ballpark to my 'width'. Thank you.

Did you have them 'pulled' at all, or just rolled?
Just rolled, but the rolling process also pushes the fender lip out
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      03-11-2019, 04:04 PM   #5
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Fender lips on BMWs can be hard to roll because they are J shaped rather than L shaped.
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      03-11-2019, 05:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smrtypants44 View Post
Fender lips on BMWs can be hard to roll because they are J shaped rather than L shaped.
I'm dropping it off at a body shop for a dent fix and some paint work, so I'd just let them do it in case it needs any work afterwards. Hopefully it's not a big deal.
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      03-11-2019, 06:32 PM   #7
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That should fit if you remove the rear spacer. Why you using it? You also should be able to add some camber in the rear to make it fit if you want to stay that way.
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      03-11-2019, 06:37 PM   #8
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If you plan to lower and want the flush look, the first thing you need to do is cut out the rear inner fender liner. The try to get it out of your fender lip. You won't be able to gain more than a few mms by rolling the fender because you'll still rub where the fender and rear bumper meet. You can also pull the fenders.

My wheels are listed in my signature. I rolled, pulled, trimmed, cambered, removed rear weight, etc. Finally ended up doing the rear brake hub mod to gain space. For your wheels I'd just remove or reduce the spacer.
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      03-11-2019, 06:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyeman View Post
That should fit if you remove the rear spacer. Why you using it? You also should be able to add some camber in the rear to make it fit if you want to stay that way.
The spacer is for fitment. The fender to rim 'gap' is 1.3 mm in the front and 1.3mm (with the spacer) in the rear currently.

I think that fitment is visually what I want.
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      03-11-2019, 09:24 PM   #10
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I figured that's why the spacer. Trim out the inner liner and get an alignment shop to add some camber while you work out what you want to do. Your tires are already a brand that works well in tight fits. Some people go as far as cutting out the inner fender lip. Try to figure out where you are rubbing and work on that area. It's easier to bend metal when it's warm so heat it up, wait until the summer, etc
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      03-11-2019, 09:43 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eyeman View Post
I figured that's why the spacer. Trim out the inner liner and get an alignment shop to add some camber while you work out what you want to do. Your tires are already a brand that works well in tight fits. Some people go as far as cutting out the inner fender lip. Try to figure out where you are rubbing and work on that area. It's easier to bend metal when it's warm so heat it up, wait until the summer, etc
For now I'll probably pull the spacer. When I take it to the body shop I'll let them know I want to get aggressive with the roll and leave the spacers so they can look at the clearance.

Thanks for the tips. I appreciate it.
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      03-11-2019, 10:54 PM   #12
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Generally the shop including tire shops I go to just don't get what we are trying to do. They'll tell you this doesn't fit and there is nothing that can be done, etc. Even alignment shops have a hard time doing what you ask them to do and not setting you up so as many of your numbers show "in the green" for them even though they know you are lowered, etc. It's a pain. And wait until you decide to switch tire brands, etc.

Also if some tries to be too aggressive while rolling, you will be able to see it from the outside. Here's a pic where you can see it in mine.
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      03-12-2019, 09:05 AM   #13
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If you're having trouble with the rears, there is 2 things that prevent you from rolling it flat.

1. there is a bead of sealant that sits in the inside edge, if you remove the sealant, you'll get more room for rolling.
2. It's 2 pieces of metal you are actually trying to roll so it's difficult. There's an image floating around that explains it better but I can't find it.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/atta...1&d=1396024799

Last edited by homewrecker07; 03-13-2019 at 05:13 PM.. Reason: found picture
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      03-27-2019, 10:18 AM   #14
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I'm running ARC8's with 235 F/265 R Federal RSRRs on TCKline coilovers. I'm running somewhere between a 5-10mm spacer to clear the suspension up front (can't remember) and -2.5 camber F/ -1.8 R.

Fronts are rolled and I also loosened the fender bolts under the hood to pull the fenders out a bit. Rears fit with no fender work or spacer.
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      03-27-2019, 10:44 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mernardi View Post
I'm running ARC8's with 235 F/265 R Federal RSRRs on TCKline coilovers. I'm running somewhere between a 5-10mm spacer to clear the suspension up front (can't remember) and -2.5 camber F/ -1.8 R.

Fronts are rolled and I also loosened the fender bolts under the hood to pull the fenders out a bit. Rears fit with no fender work or spacer.
Damn. Lowered and 2* of camber with no rubbing is encouraging. Thanks
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