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      05-20-2018, 09:47 PM   #1
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Any 18x10 et55-60 wheels out there?

Anyone know of 18x10 high offset wheels for the E82 rear?
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      05-21-2018, 10:55 AM   #2
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Won't work. It will rub on the inside. You need something closer to a +45 to clear. Mocked up some GM wheels with a 275 on the car and came to that number after spacing them out enough.
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      05-21-2018, 11:24 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
Won't work. It will rub on the inside. You need something closer to a +45 to clear. Mocked up some GM wheels with a 275 on the car and came to that number after spacing them out enough.
That's great news, I should have done some math on this.

An 18x10 ET45 is easy to find. I'll try finding some used ones to test fit and hope that rolling/pulling my rear fenders gives me enough clearance.
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      05-21-2018, 03:00 PM   #4
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Apex makes an 18x10 +43 wheel for F8x. That's my next move once I bend my current 9.5 ARC8s.
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      05-21-2018, 03:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger_Extract View Post
Apex makes an 18x10 +43 wheel for F8x. That's my next move once I bend my current 9.5 ARC8s.
That will likely need a good amount of fender work to fit but I'm also looking at those wheels. Once I sell off my spares that I have laying around I may pick up a pair.

You could run those square with a 1M front-end if you used a 15-20mm front spacer and be able to rotate wheels which would be epic.
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      05-23-2018, 08:52 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spxxx View Post
That's great news, I should have done some math on this.

An 18x10 ET45 is easy to find. I'll try finding some used ones to test fit and hope that rolling/pulling my rear fenders gives me enough clearance.
You would need at least ET51 or lower. If you want to run an ET51 wheel square you'll need a 26mm spacer up front. That is then going to create a pretty big track width difference that might make the rear-end more playful then you would like depending on your suspension setup... best to flare the rear
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      08-11-2018, 09:15 PM   #7
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I have a set of apex acr-8 in 18x9.5 with ET62. I have not mounted a tire on them yet but looks like they will fit with no rubbing or fender rolling. Maybe apex sells a 10" with an offset similar. Mine arent listed on there website. If you call them they might have sizes not listed on there site.
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      08-12-2018, 07:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Barnett View Post
I have a set of apex acr-8 in 18x9.5 with ET62. I have not mounted a tire on them yet but looks like they will fit with no rubbing or fender rolling. Maybe apex sells a 10" with an offset similar. Mine arent listed on there website. If you call them they might have sizes not listed on there site.
They don't, the best option is an M3 rear diff/hub setup so you can run normal offset wheels but you still need to deal with the outside fender clearance
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      08-13-2018, 06:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spxxx View Post
They don't, the best option is an M3 rear diff/hub setup so you can run normal offset wheels but you still need to deal with the outside fender clearance
On a 128i you can just replace the rear hubs and rotors with 328i models and it will move the hub inboard by 10mm making it much more likely you can use a square wheel and tire setup. I am not sure if the same option is available for the 135i/335i but worth checking as it's a lot less money or work than doing a rear M subframe, diff, control arms, and hubs.

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      08-13-2018, 08:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by spxxx View Post
They don't, the best option is an M3 rear diff/hub setup so you can run normal offset wheels but you still need to deal with the outside fender clearance
On a 128i you can just replace the rear hubs and rotors with 328i models and it will move the hub inboard by 10mm making it much more likely you can use a square wheel and tire setup. I am not sure if the same option is available for the 135i/335i but worth checking as it's a lot less money or work than doing a rear M subframe, diff, control arms, and hubs.

-Mark
You're right, I think that's also possible on the 135. Haven't looked into much though.

I'll likely go with a 1M rear which would solve the issue
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      08-13-2018, 09:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spxxx View Post
You're right, I think that's also possible on the 135. Haven't looked into much though.

I'll likely go with a 1M rear which would solve the issue
Right, you just use a hub from a normal ol e90.
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      08-13-2018, 09:34 PM   #12
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For the price of the hub conversion, wouldnt a custom wheel setup be cheaper?
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      08-14-2018, 12:42 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dane083 View Post
For the price of the hub conversion, wouldnt a custom wheel setup be cheaper?
Yeah but wheels break/bend on a track car, hubs would be more cost effective long term. Also custom wheels are pretty pricey
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      08-14-2018, 10:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
You would need at least ET51 or lower. If you want to run an ET51 wheel square you'll need a 26mm spacer up front. That is then going to create a pretty big track width difference that might make the rear-end more playful then you would like depending on your suspension setup... best to flare the rear
Do you have a picture of your quarter inner lip where it meets the bumper? If I can get that to roll I think I can get another 10mm. Limited to 9 inch 42 offset right now. FWIW with a 5-10mm spacer in front, square setup, the f/r track widths are equal.

If I can accomplish that I could do 9.5 ET35 square without touching the rear hubs, 1M front, with a 5-10mm spacer for strut clearance and maintain little to no track width difference. I'm hesitant because that wouldn't be aggressive enough to fill the 1M fenders.. for a 2k dollar conversion I would like it to be aesthetically pleasing
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      08-14-2018, 10:32 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drunkenup View Post
If I can accomplish that I could do 9.5 ET35 square without touching the rear hubs.
I may have misunderstood your post but on the assumption you do not have 1M rear fenders, I don't think this is realistic. I had a 9.5 +45 rear wheel with a relatively small tire on it (small 255 Continental) which looked a bit stretched and it was VERY flush - not much room to spare. With a proper sized tire and 10mm lower offset, I am confident it would not have fit my car.

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      08-14-2018, 10:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
I may have misunderstood your post but on the assumption you do not have 1M rear fenders, I don't think this is realistic. I had a 9.5 +45 rear wheel with a relatively small tire on it (small 255 Continental) which looked a bit stretched and it was VERY flush - not much room to spare. With a proper sized tire and 10mm lower offset, I am confident it would not have fit my car.

-Mark
bbnks2 mentioned somewhere he was running a 17x9 +27.. My PO pulled and rolled the fenders so at its widest point I have probably 15mm to space out, however it tapers at the bumpers edge and rubs there. The lip sealer is still intact there so I think there's a good amount of space to be had if I took that out
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      08-14-2018, 12:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drunkenup View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
You would need at least ET51 or lower. If you want to run an ET51 wheel square you'll need a 26mm spacer up front. That is then going to create a pretty big track width difference that might make the rear-end more playful then you would like depending on your suspension setup... best to flare the rear
Do you have a picture of your quarter inner lip where it meets the bumper? If I can get that to roll I think I can get another 10mm. Limited to 9 inch 42 offset right now. FWIW with a 5-10mm spacer in front, square setup, the f/r track widths are equal.

If I can accomplish that I could do 9.5 ET35 square without touching the rear hubs, 1M front, with a 5-10mm spacer for strut clearance and maintain little to no track width difference. I'm hesitant because that wouldn't be aggressive enough to fill the 1M fenders.. for a 2k dollar conversion I would like it to be aesthetically pleasing
I run et22 18x9.5 fronts with the 1M frontend (3mm spacer) in front & 18x9.5 et58 rear with no spacer.

All around 275/35/18 square tires.
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      08-14-2018, 12:18 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drunkenup View Post
Do you have a picture of your quarter inner lip where it meets the bumper? If I can get that to roll I think I can get another 10mm.
The inner lip was cut off. The inner skin of the fender was also peeled back and cut an inch to make rolling easier. The 2 layers were then sealed back together. That is the "proper" way to do an aggressive pull. A simple roll of the inner lip doesn't gain you as much and you can't really pull double skinned fenders without cutting because of how strong they are.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drunkenup View Post
Limited to 9 inch 42 offset right now. FWIW with a 5-10mm spacer in front, square setup, the f/r track widths are equal.
I remember reading that the rear rotors cause an 8mm difference per side so that makes sense that with a 8mm spacers up front you'd get a "square" setup. That should also clear the strut fine with 9" wheels. I was more talking about people running really high offsets out back to make things work. I do also think there is a benefit to keeping the rear slightly wider especially so if you run neutral spring rates and want to keep the car biased toward slight under-steer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drunkenup View Post
My PO pulled and rolled the fenders so at its widest point I have probably 15mm to space out, however it tapers at the bumpers edge and rubs there. The lip sealer is still intact there so I think there's a good amount of space to be had if I took that out.
I have 17x9 ET25 Front and 17x9 ET 23 Rear right now. That is with an aggressive pull. It does not rub but the point where the steel fenders meet the plastic bumps is a definitely a problem. Up front the bumper wore down a bit (not noticeable at all). In the rear, the roll really tapers there and the tab on the inside of the wheel well was ground down a bit to prevent rubbing there. It is definitely a commitment that can't really be reversed.

Last edited by bbnks2; 08-14-2018 at 12:39 PM..
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      08-14-2018, 02:08 PM   #19
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Here's some pictures of my setup for comparisons. Full m3 subframe swap so its set back 10mm on each side, 18x10 +25 with 275/40's. Well over an inch of clearance between shock and wheel. Could almost clear the factory quarter's with more camber and a good roll/pull.



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      08-14-2018, 04:40 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
The inner lip was cut off. The inner skin of the fender was also peeled back and cut an inch to make rolling easier. The 2 layers were then sealed back together. That is the "proper" way to do an aggressive pull. A simple roll of the inner lip doesn't gain you as much and you can't really pull double skinned fenders without cutting because of how strong they are.

...

I have 17x9 ET25 Front and 17x9 ET 23 Rear right now. That is with an aggressive pull. It does not rub but the point where the steel fenders meet the plastic bumps is a definitely a problem. Up front the bumper wore down a bit (not noticeable at all). In the rear, the roll really tapers there and the tab on the inside of the wheel well was ground down a bit to prevent rubbing there. It is definitely a commitment that can't really be reversed.
Okay, so to be clear - your rear fenders have been cut and re-welded to create more room? That would make sense to me how you can fit a 17x9 ET23 - otherwise there is just no way that is going to clear with a full range of motion. Just want to be clear as I am not 100% sure the OP gets that you are not talking about just pulling the fender, but rather cutting the inner layer, then pulling the outside to "flare", then re-welding...

-Mark
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      08-14-2018, 07:10 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
Okay, so to be clear - your rear fenders have been cut and re-welded to create more room? That would make sense to me how you can fit a 17x9 ET23 - otherwise there is just no way that is going to clear with a full range of motion. Just want to be clear as I am not 100% sure the OP gets that you are not talking about just pulling the fender, but rather cutting the inner layer, then pulling the outside to "flare", then re-welding...

-Mark
I figured as such. I have always considered cutting an option, but would prefer to avoid it
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      08-15-2018, 07:11 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
Okay, so to be clear - your rear fenders have been cut and re-welded to create more room? That would make sense to me how you can fit a 17x9 ET23 - otherwise there is just no way that is going to clear with a full range of motion. Just want to be clear as I am not 100% sure the OP gets that you are not talking about just pulling the fender, but rather cutting the inner layer, then pulling the outside to "flare", then re-welding...

-Mark
That is the easiest way to get a decent pull out of the rear fender. Nothing was welded or added. The inner skin was just cut back an inch to make the fender weak enough to be pulled. Fender sealer was used to re-seal the two layers. This is pretty standard practice to do on rear quarter panels because of how thick they are... I got a solid 1/2" more clearance out of it and the pull is not crazy noticeable like a stance car.

Last edited by bbnks2; 08-15-2018 at 07:18 AM..
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