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09-18-2013, 10:16 AM | #67 | |
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09-18-2013, 10:16 AM | #68 | |
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Now You & I have to decide between regular "yellow" or "black". Im in your shoes with the bad roads and bad back, but Im undecided myself as to which type of inserts to get. Reason is, the OEM bushings that we end up keeping on the car, are still buttery soft. Based on above, how much of a difference will the regular yellow inserts make? The next step up with difficulty of installation + labor are the 2-piece poly bushings (extraction of OEM bushing is required), and then the one-piece M3 rubber bushings (extraction of OEM bushing is required).
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
Last edited by dcaron9999; 09-18-2013 at 10:30 AM.. |
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09-18-2013, 10:59 AM | #69 |
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Regular Yellow Powerflex Bushing Inserts here:
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...419/ES2651571/ http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...421/ES2651571/ Stiffer "Racing" black Powerflex Bushing Inserts here: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...19b/ES2651728/ http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...21b/ES2651728/ Regular Yellow 2-piece Powerflex Bushing replacements here: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...420/ES2651333/ http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...422/ES2651333/ Stiffer "Racing" 2-piece Powerflex Bushing replacements here: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...20b/ES2650550/ http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...22b/ES2650550/
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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09-18-2013, 12:00 PM | #70 |
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Received this recommendation from Bimmerworld:
"Being that your car is street/track duty, I would actually recommend going with the full Powerflex subframe bushings in the high durometer black. Subframe bushings typically do not cause much NVH if that’s one of your main worries. Things like engine and transmission mounts are where most of the NVH is created when going with stiffer components."
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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09-18-2013, 12:18 PM | #71 |
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Apologies for my post stating that Whiteline parts were back ordered in North America...
This place has them in stock (USA)... Inserts: http://www.aftermarketsuspensionpart...sp?prod=KDT918 Full bushings: http://www.aftermarketsuspensionpart...sp?prod=KDT917 Thanks to "nato-main-man-5am" for the lead!
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
Last edited by dcaron9999; 09-18-2013 at 12:27 PM.. |
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09-18-2013, 12:26 PM | #72 | |
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09-19-2013, 05:34 AM | #73 |
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Got this note from the Design and Development manager at PowerFlex:
"The rear bushes give the best control of the subframe but are harder to fit (getting the old bush out is the worse part!) and can add to the NVH in the Black material. The Inserts do work very well and block some of the movement with reported improvements over the standard car, if the original bushes are badly worn best to change the bushes. Both options have advantages over the standard set up, obviously for the best control of the subframe in track conditions is the complete black series bushes. The yellow bushes still offer a firmer location of the subframe over the standard bush and would be more comfortable on the road."
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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09-19-2013, 12:52 PM | #74 | |
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Garage List F15 X5 xDrive35i [8.75]
E86 Z4 M [10.00] F10 550i (Retired) [9.17] F25 X3 xDrive35i (R ... [9.43] E82 135is (Retired) [9.50] E85 Z4 M (Retired) [9.41] E90 328i xDrive (Re ... [9.25] E86 Z4 3.0si (Retired) [9.22] |
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I'm with you, I'm leaning towards the black inserts due to ease of install and a more "stealthy" appearance, ie less hassle from dealer. The black inserts will obviously provide a softer ride as compared to the black race bushings, but I wonder how they compare to the yellow bushings? I always prefer oe rubber over poly. I've seen too many poly bushings crack over time, rubber does the job. But oe rubber + inserts/limiters are a great compromise imo. Last edited by 3002 tii; 09-19-2013 at 12:59 PM.. |
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09-19-2013, 12:56 PM | #75 |
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Im not sure I like the idea of adding extra height (thickness of insert rim) between OEM bushing and subframe.
I just snapped a pic of my rear driver side bushing. Notice all the openings, versus a solid M3 bushing. My stock bushing seemed in good shape, but it is not too hard to move the subframe by 2 cm with a crowbar. Measures about 3.25" in diameter ... Picture of a 1m/M3 solid bushing ...
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
Last edited by dcaron9999; 09-22-2013 at 06:27 AM.. |
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09-21-2013, 10:23 AM | #76 | |
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Got a call indicating they too are not going to have stock "until December". Urgh. I've got the OEM sport suspension "ready to install" in the shed, and wanted to do the inserts at the same time, so I only need to get one alignment. Now to decide whether Powerflex at treble the price for their inserts is worth it from a quality perspective and not just a "it's available now" perspective....
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09-21-2013, 01:50 PM | #77 | |
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I personally decided to pull the plug on the M3 bushings, and keep the car with M3 components where possible/logical. The inserts seem like a band aid solution to me, leading up to an eventaul full bushing replacement in the future. There are so many great DIY's out there for the bushing extraction and insertion, that I got confident, and will tackle the job as a DIY. I was lucky and stumbled across a free tool rental arrangement in my location. Canadian Tire rents a bushing tool kit for free for 72 hours, as a courtesy to their customers.
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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09-21-2013, 07:14 PM | #78 |
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I look at it as 1 hour versus 8 hours of work, but of course I am not tracking my car. My next 8 hour job is upgrading to the sport suspension.
But I understand and applaud your approach!
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09-22-2013, 06:29 AM | #79 |
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I understand your approach as well - its great to have options. Let me know how everything turns out, and I will do the same in this thread eventually.
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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09-22-2013, 08:47 AM | #80 | |
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And really, the only work you'll be doing again (the second time around) for the bushing install is getting the car on jack stands and rear tires off. It's a pretty fast and simple job. My biggest problem is that I let the subframe down too far I think - made getting the front inserts easy (which some folks have said they had a problem with, but I had a little bit of trouble getting the front bolts torqued down hard enough. My car was in the shop a couple of weeks later, and so I had them check all 4 bolts as a favor, and they said the 2 rears were godd, but they had to tighten the two fronts. For whatever that's worth.
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09-22-2013, 01:31 PM | #81 | |
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