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      01-31-2017, 12:29 PM   #23
Redadair
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I love my 02 M5. The car isn't as athletic as the 1M but it's not what it was built for. That said it handles great for a 4000 lb car. My car has 52K miles on it and it is splits DD with my 06 e46 M3. I drive it for vacations because the wife loves the seats and overall comfort. The car is very quite on the road, you can actually talk and listen to music at 90 MPH
I have added the Grom Audio to the M5 which adds hands free and bluetooth audio. I also changed the very tall gear shifter to the e60 5 series shifter, e39 leather boot and f10 M5 shift lever. Best overall gear shift setup I have seen in the e39 M5
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      02-01-2017, 03:09 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickc007 View Post
I currently have a 2003 M5, and a 2013 135iS

Different Beasts altogether.
The 135iS is in DCT
The M5 6 spd Manual, the only way it was produced

M5 is wider, more stable feeling, heavier and doesn't handle quite like the 1 series, or even the 3 series.
I traded my 330ci in for the M5, and immediately thought the M5 handled more like a boat then the 3. The 5 handles great for a big Heavy car (4000lbs). But it's a Big Heavy Car.
But Power out the ying yang.
Really gets going once you hit 3rd.
Have had it up to 140, totally stable.

While I wouldn't call the 1 series "twitchy", compared to the 5, it's twitchy
Can kick the tail out easy on either one of them, but the 1 seems to break loose a little earlier.
I don't race them or anything, meaning just accelarating to get in traffic, you see the traction light come on

Seat much narrower in the 1, and can really wrap you in.
Prefer the 1 seat to the 5.
Interior on the 5 is better, full Nappa all the way around.
Like the old school looks of the M5 instrument cluster better.

Comparitively the M5 is seems to be much easier to work on, and no turbo.
The M5 forum has a bazillion DYIs, and I've done many of them.
M5 is VERY well built, and I have 140k now on mine, Many new parts.
Runs like a dream.

Touch call if I had to have one, would probably take the 5 cuz I can fix it.
But my back likes the 1 seat much better.

Either way, Nothing bad to say about the 5 , Unless you're going to bring it to the dealer form all repairs and maintenance. In which case, may want to start playing the Lottery. BMW charges an Arm and Leg for everything.
Beyond what you would imagine.
I'd mirror pretty much all of this, I went from an E39 M5 to a 1er.

Driving is a night and day difference as mentioned. Seats, agreed. The heated seats in the E39 are a bit warmer to add, haha. Driving around town and such, the N54(and I imagine N55), feel strikingly similar to the big V8, but handling is amazingly different. The 1 series feels like a go cart compared to the big sedan, even if it's a great handling car for its size as mentioned.

The S62 is an AMAZING motor as well. It pulls so strong all the way to redline, where as the N series motors kind of run out of breath above 6, and the throttle response is fantastic. Muffler delete and its one of the best sounding V8's there is.

Now, maintenance. Do your own work or you're going to be spending A LOT on the car. They're at the age where all the rubber is getting deteriorated, and every little thing may or may not start to break. I replaced literally everything in the front suspension on mine, and then started having to do the same on the rear.

The motors are a bit finnicky sometimes too, mine ran weird for the longest time while I had it, would misfire at high RPM very randomly when it was hot, power would be 100%-80% and wouldn't throw any codes and I replaced many parts trying to figure it out: ended up being the fuel pump I replaced on a whim, no indication that could have been it.

Parts cost: Everything is more expensive than a 135. Literally. Not astronomically, but I have priced out literally every part between the two I could think of out of curiosity, and every. single. part. for the E39 was more.

Granted, do some searching and buy online, you'll be fine. The most expensive part I spent on it was a rebuilt vanos board, and the only reason I had to do that was because I suck at electrical and fucked up mine trying to do the DIY fix. Found out my soldering was originally fine, I just crimped one of the wires putting it back anyways :|

Maintenance history. Get some or be prepared to lowball. Or a PPI. Maintenance history on these things is king.

Biggest issues to try and get history of:

Rod bearings replaced.
Vanos rebuilt
Timing chain.

These three will cost you the most to get done. Rod bearings, honestly, are hit or miss. My car had 169k on the originals. Vanos? Usually just makes noise, and the only thing that'll cause issue are the boards which you can repair. Timing chain issues are rare, but parts alone are 1k+.

Also, gas mileage sucks.

Do I regret anything owning one? Not at all.
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      02-01-2017, 03:49 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallim View Post
...Maintenance history. Get some or be prepared to lowball. Or a PPI. Maintenance history on these things is king.

Biggest issues to try and get history of:

Rod bearings replaced.
Vanos rebuilt
Timing chain.

These three will cost you the most to get done. Rod bearings, honestly, are hit or miss. My car had 169k on the originals. Vanos? Usually just makes noise, and the only thing that'll cause issue are the boards which you can repair. Timing chain issues are rare, but parts alone are 1k+.

Also, gas mileage sucks.

Do I regret anything owning one? Not at all.

I never really heard of rod bearings being an issue with the e39M5. I thought it was much more common with the e60 M5 V10 and the e9x M3 V8's.

Having just replaced my timing chain on my e39... I can tell you its a bitch. But more important is to replace the timing chain tensioner BEFORE your timing chain starts to make any noise. The tensioner costs less than $80 and can save you a ton of headaches down the road. It's also an easy 10 min install. I'm starting to wonder IF our 1er's have a tensioner that can be replaced with open (heart)surgery.

Also... IF your gonna replace the chain on any e39... you want to be sure to also replace the chain guides/rails and the waterpump/e-thermostat.

I know everyone talks about bad vanos... but I really think this is a worn out chain(or more likely broken chain guides) problem. I feel that the vanos go bad more often when people don't change the oil often enough. Another reason to go with short OCI's.

It's no fun hearing your engine making that death rattle and finding a pile of plastic in the oil pan. All is good now and she's running like a champ again.

my 540i 6-speed manual...
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all the plastic from the timing chain guides ends up in your oil pan...
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old rail guide in foreground(missing all the plastic)... new rail guide in background...
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I only drove the car for a short distance making all sorts of bad noises... the chain was wearing into the outer chain cover that the waterpump bolts up too.
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      02-01-2017, 04:11 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I never really heard of rod bearings being an issue with the e39M5. I thought it was much more common with the e60 M5 V10 and the e9x M3 V8's.

Having just replaced my timing chain on my e39... I can tell you its a bitch. But more important is to replace the timing chain tensioner BEFORE your timing chain starts to make any noise. The tensioner costs less than $80 and can save you a ton of headaches down the road. It's also an easy 10 min install. I'm starting to wonder IF our 1er's have a tensioner that can be replaced with open (heart)surgery.

Also... IF your gonna replace the chain on any e39... you want to be sure to also replace the chain guides/rails and the waterpump/e-thermostat.

I know everyone talks about bad vanos... but I really think this is a worn out chain(or more likely broken chain guides) problem. I feel that the vanos go bad more often when people don't change the oil often enough. Another reason to go with short OCI's.

It's no fun hearing your engine making that death rattle and finding a pile of plastic in the oil pan. All is good now and she's running like a champ again.

my 540i 6-speed manual...
Attachment 1565984

all the plastic from the timing chain guides ends up in your oil pan...
Attachment 1565985

old rail guide in foreground(missing all the plastic)... new rail guide in background...
Attachment 1565986

I only drove the car for a short distance making all sorts of bad noises... the chain was wearing into the outer chain cover that the waterpump bolts up too.
Attachment 1565987

Attachment 1565988

Attachment 1565989
Rod bearings are definitely an issue on E39 M5's but like I said it's much more hit or miss. Definitely less than s85's/s65's. I don't believe the tensioner replacement helping, I had a 540/6 before my M5 and replaced the tensioner at 105k, they went at 115k a week after I sold it. Did the job for the guy, definitely a bit of a bitch.
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      02-02-2017, 06:45 PM   #27
Redadair
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The Rob bearing issues on the S62 engine was the 2000 and some 2001year cars. After the update and change from 10w60 to 5w30 motor oil it is pretty much gone. 2002 and 2003 cars are post this issue.


The S62 engine in the e39 M5 is a Completely different engine from the V8 in the 540. It doesn't share the same issues with the timing chain and tensioner.
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88 E30 M3 100% OEM 73K Miles
02 E39 M5 Le Mans Blue 50K Miles
06 E46 M3 ZCP 58K Miles
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      02-02-2017, 08:23 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redadair View Post
The Rob bearing issues on the S62 engine was the 2000 and some 2001year cars. After the update and change from 10w60 to 5w30 motor oil it is pretty much gone. 2002 and 2003 cars are post this issue.


The S62 engine in the e39 M5 is a Completely different engine from the V8 in the 540. It doesn't share the same issues with the timing chain and tensioner.
Should I not run 10/60 in one?
Also.
Vanos and timing chain replaced. Paid less for the car than the sum of receipts for maintenance.
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      02-03-2017, 10:45 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kikcaffine View Post
Should I not run 10/60 in one?
Also.
Vanos and timing chain replaced. Paid less for the car than the sum of receipts for maintenance.
Honestly, I wouldn't run 10w-60. I agree that I think it was the heavy weight of oil that gave any bearing issues. I ran it in the summer when I'd autocross, but 0w-40 otherwise.

Also, congrats! Nice job on the silverstone, I've yet to see it in person but its a great color.


Also, if it has the original taillights on it, I've got a set of LCI tail lights I never used on my car if interested.
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      02-06-2017, 11:44 AM   #30
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The engine requirement for oil will be shown under the hood. Typically a 2000 will still say it requires 10w60, early 2001's on the sticker under the hood. 2002 and 2003 will say 5w30. I would Definitely use BMW oil. Liqui-Moly 5w30 is also a great choice for oil.
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02 E39 M5 Le Mans Blue 50K Miles
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      02-06-2017, 12:23 PM   #31
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Most of the quirks have been mentioned in this thread, most of which would be catched in by a good pre-purchase inspection.

Owned an 2002 E39/M5, for about a year. The mechanical sound of the S62 and 32 valves singing and entering the cabin is to die for. No need for fake sound pumped into the speakers like in today's car. Flat torque torque curve from low RPM to redline. Gigantic trunk space, and 4 doors. It's heavy and eats tires, and gasoline. Know what you are getting into, and enjoy every mile in it! This beast is a blast, and a wonderful sleeper sports sedan to carry around 4 people and plenty of luggage ...

The Ultimate BMW E39 M5 Buyer's Guide:
http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/the-ch...ide-1597567975
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Last edited by dcaron9999; 02-06-2017 at 12:32 PM.
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      02-06-2017, 03:27 PM   #32
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love blue water & silverstone. Great job. Specs/year/mileage?
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      02-07-2017, 02:06 PM   #33
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I had a fanstastic Estoril Blue low-miles one. Great car which I regret selling. If I had the space and could find one as clean as my old one I'd have another in a heartbeat. In honesty it did the duality thing better than the 1M as it was such a great cruiser when you want to cover distance.
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      02-07-2017, 02:53 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redadair View Post
The engine requirement for oil will be shown under the hood. Typically a 2000 will still say it requires 10w60, early 2001's on the sticker under the hood. 2002 and 2003 will say 5w30. I would Definitely use BMW oil. Liqui-Moly 5w30 is also a great choice for oil.
It got itself some Rotella T6 5-40 oil. Super high zinc content so it should be good until I get a chance to do the bearings in it (month or 2)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh (PA) View Post
love blue water & silverstone. Great job. Specs/year/mileage?
2000, 163k, bone stock mechanically. In love with it. Been chasing down lots of stupid things like I had to on my 530i (Vacuum and PCV lines) and fixing that. It runs so much better now and it substantially faster than when I bought it a week ago. I guess having a MAF covered in oil and a non-functioning PCV system will do that.
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