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      03-21-2019, 09:52 PM   #1
SixBanger
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Turbos need to go (need some input)

After 11 years the time has come to replace the turbos. I have a friend helping me out and we need some input. Is it really necessary to pull the the sub frame out? I'm doing it on jack stands, and looking to save some time if possible? Do i need to install new oil and coolant lines as well? Or can I just install new gaskets when re-installing the lines? Any and all feedback would be great. Thank you.
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      03-21-2019, 10:34 PM   #2
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You save time by removing the subframe. Working around that thing in the way will waste more time than just zapping the 6 bolts off with an impact. Get an engine brace to support it on top when the subframe is out. I have done quite a few turbo installs on jackstands with both methods and subframe out is definitely much easier.

Oil feed lines are very nice braided lines which don't need to be changed out. I have seen the front oil drain prone to kinking but really depends on the car. Coolant lines the rear return line to the block is prone to breaking sometimes, usually when oil has leaked on the rubber hose and degraded it.

Usually auto cars the drain lines and coolant lines are in worse condition (extra heat produced by the auto transmission and raises the coolant temps via the heat exhcanger.)
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      03-23-2019, 11:37 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
You save time by removing the subframe. Working around that thing in the way will waste more time than just zapping the 6 bolts off with an impact. Get an engine brace to support it on top when the subframe is out. I have done quite a few turbo installs on jackstands with both methods and subframe out is definitely much easier.

Oil feed lines are very nice braided lines which don't need to be changed out. I have seen the front oil drain prone to kinking but really depends on the car. Coolant lines the rear return line to the block is prone to breaking sometimes, usually when oil has leaked on the rubber hose and degraded it.

Usually auto cars the drain lines and coolant lines are in worse condition (extra heat produced by the auto transmission and raises the coolant temps via the heat exhcanger.)
Thank you. With the turbo installs that you've done in the past. How long did it take you with a friend?
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      03-23-2019, 05:46 PM   #4
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Never done it with a friend actually, always done it alone. It's hard to put a solid time on it because every install you end up doing other stuff while everything is accessible.

Rough estimate can do it in around 14-16 hours on jackstands if you're reasonablly experienced in diy on these cars, but first time might be a bit longer. Here in Australia we never really have to worry about rusty fasteners so if you have corroded studs etc could easily ruin your day.
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      03-23-2019, 06:18 PM   #5
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I would have all seals and lines on hand just in case. Definitely do the coolant lines. Definitely drop the subframe. If it's been over 60k on he current water pump, do that too.

While you're at it, replace your engine mounts and change oil and coolant. Those mounts will be far beyond beat to shit at that point.
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      03-24-2019, 07:47 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Never done it with a friend actually, always done it alone. It's hard to put a solid time on it because every install you end up doing other stuff while everything is accessible.

Rough estimate can do it in around 14-16 hours on jackstands if you're reasonablly experienced in diy on these cars, but first time might be a bit longer. Here in Australia we never really have to worry about rusty fasteners so if you have corroded studs etc could easily ruin your day.
In regards to the studs, is it hard to replace them? I live in South Florida, however if I run into an issue with any of the studs how much time will that take away if any of the studs needed attention?
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      03-24-2019, 07:49 PM   #7
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I recieved a quote for $659 for turbos to be replaced on my car. I'm a little worried about that price because it's very very low compared to other shops. $600 doesn't seem so bad, considering if I run into a problem post-install. What do you guys think?
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      03-24-2019, 08:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SixBanger View Post
In regards to the studs, is it hard to replace them? I live in South Florida, however if I run into an issue with any of the studs how much time will that take away if any of the studs needed attention?
Really cant put a time on stuff like that, if theyre stuck you might even need to weld a nut on it and torch it to get enough torque to back them up.

Personally I don't replace the studs unless they backout with the nuts or if the thread is damaged.
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      03-24-2019, 08:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SixBanger View Post
I recieved a quote for $659 for turbos to be replaced on my car. I'm a little worried about that price because it's very very low compared to other shops. $600 doesn't seem so bad, considering if I run into a problem post-install. What do you guys think?
I think they have no idea what they're getting themselves in for.

Get the quote in writing then take them up on the offer
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      03-25-2019, 09:49 AM   #10
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I'm in the middle of replacing mine if you'd like to follow the thread
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1578546
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      03-29-2019, 06:40 PM   #11
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Do your oil pan gasket while the sub frame is out, as it will need to be done sooner or later.
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      04-02-2019, 07:58 PM   #12
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Do your oil pan gasket while the sub frame is out, as it will need to be done sooner or later.
That was done 2 years ago, will I be fine?
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      04-03-2019, 06:17 AM   #13
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That was done 2 years ago, will I be fine?
Yep should be good
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      04-11-2019, 10:08 AM   #14
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I just swapped my rattling stock turbos for Pure Stage 1 turbos this past weekend so i can give you a few tips. Be warned this is not a walk in the park, it was a very tedious and time consuming process and i even used a lift.

* You need all the tools (im talking full socket set, allan keys, torx key set, MANY extensions of all sizes, air tools, swivel sockets, etc..) Make sure you have a couple sets of Allan keys because you will need to cut one of them up in order to get some of these bolts off.

* I chose to leave the subframe in, you will need someway of holding the engine up as the engine mount needs to come out to give you enough room for the rear turbo, speaking of engine mount your going to have a tuff time with the long bolt going through it.

* Order new Oil drain lines as they might kink on the way out, change every rubber gasket on every hose.

* This is a good time to do inlets (i did)

* Lastly, be prepared to get frustrated, there is literally no room to move a wrench in there and will require alot of patience, start to finish it took me about 29 hours and you will definitely need a second hand on some steps.

Good luck
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