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10-31-2010, 01:32 AM | #24 | |
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EDIT: Found this link, all questions answered: http://www.planet-9.com/porsche-tire...g-methods.html Sorry for the stupid question
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Last edited by Novator; 10-31-2010 at 01:45 AM.. |
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10-31-2010, 04:00 PM | #25 | |
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The ARC-8 can absolutely can handle the street. The ARC-8 was designed to meet the width, offset, and weight requirements of track drivers, but they're not a track only wheel. Some other manufacturers have developed a "track" wheel that truly did not meet the strength requirements of the street, and this seems to left many people with the assumption that all track oriented wheels cannot handle the street. Although the dimensions/specifications of the ARC-8 was designed to fit wider rubber then the stock wheels, they still meet/exceed the strength and testing requirements of street wheels. The ARC-8 wheels are flow-formed, not just regular cast. There is nothing "too complex" about the mesh design of the ARC-8 wheel that causes casting inconsistencies. I have no idea where an assumption like that came from, but it's a generalization that should not be used to describe the ARC-8 wheel. There has never been a single failure or issue regarding the strength of the spokes or overall design. The wheels weren't just tested for stress in a computer simulation like many USA made forged wheels, or not 3rd party tested/certified like numerous other manufacturers. They were each run through three rounds of crush testing in house as the design was tweaked, and then final crush testing in Japan to receive true VIA certification, with registration numbers to prove it. It really is an apples to oranges comparison, because the Forgeline's are a premium wheel with a price to match. Custom always costs more. But that doesn't mean a flow-formed wheel that's been priced aggressively at $1200~ does not meet a users strength needs, as both the testing and real world use of these wheels for street and racing use have proven their strength and design. Do note: the goal of light-weight forged wheels is not to make them stronger then needed. It's to make them as light as possible while still meeting a certain minimum strength rating. They designed that wheel like every other wheel to be only so strong, and then focused on reducing material weight from there. 3 piece wheels are also the least ridged wheel construction. It's a trade off for ease of customization regarding offset/caliper clearance by changing centers and barrels. Since they are bolted together, they lack the rigidity of one piece wheels. Even Forgeline pushes their monoblock wheels as their stiffest/lightest wheels, for good reason. Harold at HP Autowerks was sent a front sample wheel, and picked up a rear wheel of the APEX ARC-8 for testing, as he planned to run the ARC-8 wheel on his project 1 series. The front offset was too aggressive for his specific application. They were originally designed to run wide extreme summer tires in a competitive racing or autocross application, which would always run aggressive camber anyway. The low offset was needed to avoid the use of spacers in those applications. They were produced in a small batch in that offset. I hope that the sample wheel at least provided a useful tool for selecting the offsets on the Forgeline wheels. Luckily a new version of the 18x8.5" ARC-8 will be coming out in a higher 1 series specific front offset that will allow it to fit street oriented applications while still running wider tires. This will give owners two front wheel options to pair with the 9.5" wheels that already have the perfect offset for wide rear tire use, on both stock and modified 1 series applications. |
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10-31-2010, 10:25 PM | #26 |
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Flow-form or not, it is still a form of cast process, and I just call it generalize them all as cast. Whenever you cast a wheel, liquid metal is allow to cool, the more complex the design the more likely you will have inconsistent castings during the cool down process. Any race car engineers here are welcome to comment...
Eddy, I still have plans to run your wheels for track duty, either running very aggressive negative camber(-1.5 is max without taking away too much tire life, -2 significantly reduce tire life) or change them at the track. The other alternative is to wait for a less aggressive offset, maybe in the range of +42-45. |
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10-31-2010, 11:46 PM | #27 | |
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11-01-2010, 09:56 AM | #28 | |
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135ijb3, h & r filter, SSK, CDV,clutch stop, klracing fmic,seccond catted ,225-255 michelin ps3, E93F-E92R swaybars.M3 parts front.M3 tension rear.Plates mod(F-2,0º R-1,5º).Bilstein + stock springs.Ps rotors.Subframe bushings.Weichers fstruut.Finally mods sdiff and raceland dp.
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11-01-2010, 11:14 AM | #29 | |
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The SS brake lines come with the Stoptech BBK. The stock lines do a great job for day to day use and you wont' see a huge change in pedal feel by going with SS lines at all. For track duty, SS lines can stand up to the abuse and heat much better. |
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11-12-2010, 03:32 PM | #32 |
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11-19-2010, 01:50 PM | #33 |
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The latest upgrade is the HPA Rear Quick Change Spring Kit.
This kit allows the user to change spring rates at home or the track in minutes, without disconnecting the lower control arm and without performing another wheel alignment as long as the ride height remains the same. This kit not only allows you to change your springs very quickly, it also allows you to adjust the ride height of the vehicle with the springs installed. YES! With the springs installed. No need to remove the springs! Most E82/9X coilover kits on the market today, you must unload the spring tension to adjust the rear ride height, but not ours! What is in the kit: HPA Rear Ride Height Adjusters BMW Sealed Radial Thrust Bearings(used on the top of the main spring) Swift Main and Helper springs Swift Thrust Sheets(use at the lower portion of the spring, between the helper and the control arm) |
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12-04-2010, 10:53 PM | #34 |
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Harold and team....since you opened this thread about the build of the N55 and the 1M....are you going to -
(1) go wide body on the front to equal the track width of the 1M? (2) flare the rear at all to equal the look of the 1M? (3) do a quad exhaust like the 1M? (4) do any more body weight lightening, or leave the full interior in? Interested in the project....good luck, and enjoy Bruce BRracing |
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12-05-2010, 12:30 AM | #35 | |
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(1) go wide body on the front to equal the track width of the 1M? No, I may just pick up the 1M when it comes out. (2) flare the rear at all to equal the look of the 1M? See above. (3) do a quad exhaust like the 1M? I don't see any performance gains from doing that. (4) do any more body weight lightening, or leave the full interior in? M3 suspension parts, TCK DA's, wheel/tires and our lightweight battery kit already took decent weight off of the vehicle. Double sided carbon hood and trunk will further reduce weight. This is a street car so no further weight reduction will be done. |
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12-18-2010, 03:10 AM | #36 |
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The latest upgrade to HPA's Project 135i:
Front Stoptech Trophy Sport Big Brake Kit. It's front brakes only but here you go! Front BMW 135i OEM: 12.2 lbs oem caliper with pads(6500 miles) 21.6 lbs oem rotor(6500 miles) 2.0 lbs oem caliper bracket/mount *The oem components may be a bit heavier when new Front Stoptech Trophy Sport: 10.4 lbs Stoptech Trophy Sport with pads 17.6 lbs Stoptech rotor(355 x 32mm, larger in diameter and thickness than oem) 1.2 lbs Stoptech caliper bracket/mount You are looking at an unsprung weight savings of ~6.6 lbs per each front corner of your 135i. You'll notice that there was 4 lbs saved on the rotors alone, if the rotor size and thickness had been the same as an OEM rotor, the saving would have been even greater. |
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01-26-2011, 01:56 AM | #37 | |
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Just a quick update for you. We just placed an order for the new 1-series M coupe so our project 135i will be up for sale very soon. |
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01-27-2011, 08:59 AM | #38 |
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01-27-2011, 03:05 PM | #39 |
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01-29-2011, 08:11 AM | #40 | |
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Actually, I don't blame you for jumping to the 1M, wish I could do the same. |
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01-29-2011, 09:36 AM | #41 |
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01-29-2011, 10:42 AM | #42 |
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01-29-2011, 08:04 PM | #43 | |
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Also, and this doesn't apply here since this will be a show/track car, but I don't understand why anyone is putting a LW battery in this car. Deka 15s do not provide enough CCAs for our cars and will go dead in the winter time. I've experienced this numerous times, which is why I don't run them in anything but track cars. Also, it's not as though you're reducing unsprung weight, weight above the center of gravity, or even weight on the front end of a nose heavy car. |
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01-30-2011, 06:52 PM | #44 | ||
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One way to increase the the acceleration and cornering capability of a vehicle is to reduce its mass, the light weight battery is just one of the components we chose to replace here. Although it is not a weight above the center of gravity(do you know where the center of gravity of the 135i actually is?), it is away from the center of gravity. Weight reduction furthest away from the center of gravity will have the greatest affect on response. To the engineering type this is the moment of inertia(correct me if I am wrong). Quote:
We simply stated the unsprung weight reduction of the Stoptech Trophy Brakes, another benefit would be less rotational inertial. Perhaps you are more interested in the reduction of 15-20 lbs of unsprung weight at each corner of the vehicle with the use of lightweight wheels and none RFT tires or the the Koni DA coilovers with Swift springs and aluminum M3 control arms. With all due respect, if you are a BMW engineer would you not agree every pound of weight, unsprung or sprung that doesn't need to be accelerated, decelerated and go around a corner will make the car quicker? Last edited by HP Autosport; 04-17-2011 at 07:17 PM.. |
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