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      05-13-2013, 09:38 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by CarJunkie View Post
I have also done the CDV delete and clutch stop also . . . I worry more about the clutch stop. How aggressive did you go with the clutch stop thickness?
Not aggressive at all. Could have easily fit 2-3 more rings
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      05-13-2013, 09:38 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by AM1N View Post
Sorry for the late response.

Current modifications: CDV delete, clutch stop, catless n55 midpipes. Other than those, car is 100% stock. It has never been tracked and I am the original owner. Never had any mis shifts either. This is my second manual car, first was 2008 jeep wrangler which I had 0 problems with.

If I want to replace the individual synchros, doesn't my whole tranny have to be taken apart? That seems like an extremely hectic and potentially risky/dangerous situation for my car.
Did you leave the car at the service for diagnosing the issue with the clutch stop and modified CDV in or did you take them out before going there? Maybe they are playing stupid for some reason (what they say about the cause of this problem is indeed stupid).
"The mark of a great car is one whose overall competence exceeds what you should expect from its individual components and the 1M does just that", Chris Harris.
BMW 1M-SOLD-: TECH: Evolve Race+N55mids, Evolve IC, Michelin PSS, ER cp, aFe filter, CDVx, Vorshlag camber plates, BMS OCC EXTERIOR: trunk spoiler, blacklines, black grills, IND goodies INTERIOR: Alcantara steering wheel, steel pedals, custom mats, MPower e-brake.
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      05-13-2013, 09:51 PM   #25

Drives: e82 1M, e30 325e, f15 X5 40e
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Originally Posted by AM1N View Post
Not aggressive at all. Could have easily fit 2-3 more rings
I left mine only 5mm thick, which was all I needed.

Honestly, with my seat adjusted to a comfortable position for the throttle and brake, the clutch was WAY too deep, and I had to overextend my foot to reach the bottom. On most shifts, I never reached the bottom of the pedal throw. With the clutch stop there, it taps down perfectly and feels "right". I think my actual clutch throw would be the same with or without the stop because I had to try so hard to get the clutch pedal all the way down.

I have 13k on my car and have found that the 1-2 shift has gotten easier, quicker (letting it go smoothly without forcing the shift) and smoother over time, especially after about 5000 miles. It sucks to hear you are having this issue. I hope it can get settled.

Another question: Did you get fresh tranny fluid at the run-in service?
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      05-14-2013, 01:45 PM   #26
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Interesting read: "Understanding and Analyzing Manual Transmission Failures" (2011):

"The road to ruin begins with the clutch. The primary issue with transmission damage is an improperly releasing clutch. A worn or slipping clutch causes a lack of torque transfer from the engine to the transmission, but does the transmission little or no harm. In order to have the synchronizers in the transmission function properly for smooth clash free shifts, the clutch must fully release when depressed, disconnecting the motor from the transmission completely and cleanly. The amount of pedal travel (2-4 inches on average) will result in an air gap at the disc of about 50/1000ths of an inch. The motor is not transferring torque into the transmission, and the output shaft of the trans is now being driven by the drive wheels. If there is no disconnect between the engine and transmission due to an improperly adjusted clutch travel, the synchronizers are now fighting the engine torque load. This causes grinding notchy shifts which will destroy the synchronizer or blocker rings, the engagement teeth on the speed gears and synchro sliding sleeves, the synchronizer keys, shift fork pads and the forks themselves."

To OP: once the transmission of your 1M will be replaced, for your peace of mind: neither CDV delete nor clutch stop.
“For ’tis the mind that makes the body rich” (W. Shakespeare, The Taming of the Shrew, Act 4, Scene 3)
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      05-14-2013, 01:59 PM   #27
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Sorry to hear about your woes OP. You need to find another dealer. I would not even mention what dealer #1 told you.

Originally Posted by -cj- View Post
I thought when flashing a tune, the ECU was reset? Doesn't the Cobb AP take care of this?
The DME counts each time you flash the DME software. Each time the dealer reads your fault memory... it sends this data(dme flash count, max boost levels, ect) to BMW AG. BMW AG keeps track of this stuff... so if the flash count goes higher... they know somethings up. But they HAVE to look for that. Its not something that is done automatically. For any big warranty repair... mother BMW would ask for this info.
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      05-20-2013, 07:16 PM   #28
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A friend of mine had an issue with his tranny at 8500km; it wouldn't shift into second. From what I know he got his transmission changed under warranty with no issues. But here in the Middle East if you modded anything on the car (exception of Akra exhaust) you loose the warranty.
Current - AW (now atlantis blue) 1///M - Turbo Inlets, JB4, Full Catless, Meth, KW V3's

Previous - Sepang Bronze E39 ///M5 sadly sold
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