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      01-23-2013, 01:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Derple View Post
I'm posting this again because dackelone deleted it and warned me for trolling and being unhelpful, except that I am not doing either of those things. I actually mean to be helpful. Here is what I wrote:

You ought to know that when you drive this car on the track the way you should, it shouldn't feel 'planted' or 'on rails' or any of this unless you are driving a car with huge slicks and monstrous downforce. It should feel like it is skating, but in a consistent fashion all the way through the corner. You should be able to set the cars yaw and attitude on turn in and carry that with throttle all the way to track out. That's why they call it 'taking a set'. You should be slipping all the way from turn in, around the apex to track out. If you can't get the car to take a consistent set it could either be your technique, not being smooth enough or even not being aggressive enough, sometimes you need to yank a car into its set if it won't go, or it could be the car set up is not tuned well. A car that is easy to drive should progressively go from a undramatic feeling on the straights to a smooth skating feeling in the turns. It feels out of control if you aren't used to it, like you're about to lose the car, but it is totally the fast way to drive--just don't panic brake when it happens or you will loop. If you have to catch it with countersteer then it is a slide and you have rotated too much and it is not fast. They perfect amount of rotation is one that you can catch just by rolling into the throttle to settle the rear. A car that snaps from one state to another is hard to manage.
I got the first notification and was wondering what happened to the post. I will keep this in mind at the track, at least as much as I can. It's hard/not safe to try and get the car into that state in the streets. Specially down here, where all the streets are grid based and there's traffic and posts everywhere.

Thanks for the input.
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      01-23-2013, 03:37 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Purple Derple View Post
Of course not on the streets its way too dangerous and you have be familiar with every inch of the driving surface. Yeah I meant for the track.
Ah crap, we need to communicate better, or I need to do a way better job of expressing myself. I know you were talking abou the track, was just simply trying to point out that I had not had the car in that situation yet.

again, thanks for the feedback and advice.
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      01-23-2013, 06:17 PM   #25
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They perfect amount of rotation is one that you can catch just by rolling into the throttle to settle the rear. A car that snaps from one state to another is hard to manage.
True, it's one thing if that big swaybar makes the car easier to rotate and another thing if it makes it snap or break away abruptly. That's what Yandy needs to look for and test. Lots of people have tried thick rear swaybars and decided to put the stock bar back or run with no rear swaybar. I think Yandy's other mods are uncontroversial for track.
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      01-23-2013, 06:19 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by GaryS View Post
True, it's one thing if that big swaybar makes the car easier to rotate and another thing if it makes it snap or break away abruptly. That's what Yandy needs to look for and test. Lots of people have tried thick rear swaybars and decided to put the stock bar back or run with no rear swaybar. I think Yandy's other mods are uncontroversial for track.
This..

I need to see what the car does. How it handles at the limit or close to it. But I will report back.
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      01-23-2013, 11:52 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Derple View Post
At this rate you will be back in the tirewall in no time.
I don't disregard you because, basing purely from your posts, you do seem to know what your talking about. But you seriously need to work on your communication skills. That is the douchiest way of putting that. You can add your input, but this is HIS car, HIS money. If he doesn't want to listen, that is his decision and there is nothing wrong with that. Just like you are giving him advice on driving, take that from me. Communication is THE most important thing in this world.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Derple View Post
I'm posting this again because dackelone deleted it and warned me for trolling and being unhelpful, except that I am not doing either of those things. I actually mean to be helpful. Here is what I wrote:

You ought to know that when you drive this car on the track the way you should, it shouldn't feel 'planted' or 'on rails' or any of this unless you are driving a car with huge slicks and monstrous downforce. It should feel like it is skating, but in a consistent fashion all the way through the corner. You should be able to set the cars yaw and attitude on turn in and carry that with throttle all the way to track out. That's why they call it 'taking a set'. You should be slipping all the way from turn in, around the apex to track out. If you can't get the car to take a consistent set it could either be your technique, not being smooth enough or even not being aggressive enough, sometimes you need to yank a car into its set if it won't go, or it could be the car set up is not tuned well. A car that is easy to drive should progressively go from a undramatic feeling on the straights to a smooth skating feeling in the turns. It feels out of control if you aren't used to it, like you're about to lose the car, but it is totally the fast way to drive--just don't panic brake when it happens or you will loop. If you have to catch it with countersteer then it is a slide and you have rotated too much and it is not fast. They perfect amount of rotation is one that you can catch just by rolling into the throttle to settle the rear. A car that snaps from one state to another is hard to manage.
This is all very true. The old saying that if your car is completely under control you aren't going fast enough has truth to it. Slicks, R-comps and a tire like an RS3 work best at certain slip angles. It varies from tire to tire. I can tell you off the top of my head a Michelin Cup tire is most efficient at a 3 degree slip angle. It is the driver and the chassis job to use the TIRE in the most efficient way. That is all driving dynamics is, manipulating weight to best use your tires. Steering a car is nothing more than you putting force into the ground and where the weight is can put your car in a better chance to do that, or overload the car and turn static friction into kinetic friction. The ideal way to get a car around a corner should require ZERO steering. What determines this is your speed, line, steering/turn in and weight control aka braking/brake release. The brake release and turn in are inherently tied together in managing the weight. At this point, you can steer the car with the throttle as Purple Derple said. Now steering the car with the throttle does not mean a huge gob of it to get into oversteer, or an abrupt lift to do the same. Rather, think of it as less then 5% change in pedal travel to walk the line of slip.

To sum up what Purple said and I am supplementing, you want to be using 100% of your tires grip from the beginning of the braking zone until the wheel is pointed straight at the exit. That is achieved through those techniques. When you can do that consistently is when I personally recommend moving on to a stickier tire, however it is completely unrealistic for ANYONE to do that in every single corner, even Michael Schumacher would not achieve that.
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Last edited by Sauce; 01-24-2013 at 01:49 AM..
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      01-24-2013, 07:04 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sauce View Post
I don't disregard you because, basing purely from your posts, you do seem to know what your talking about. But you seriously need to work on your communication skills. That is the douchiest way of putting that. You can add your input, but this is HIS car, HIS money. If he doesn't want to listen, that is his decision and there is nothing wrong with that. Just like you are giving him advice on driving, take that from me. Communication is THE most important thing in this world.

This is all very true. The old saying that if your car is completely under control you aren't going fast enough has truth to it. Slicks, R-comps and a tire like an RS3 work best at certain slip angles. It varies from tire to tire. I can tell you off the top of my head a Michelin Cup tire is most efficient at a 3 degree slip angle. It is the driver and the chassis job to use the TIRE in the most efficient way. That is all driving dynamics is, manipulating weight to best use your tires. Steering a car is nothing more than you putting force into the ground and where the weight is can put your car in a better chance to do that, or overload the car and turn static friction into kinetic friction. The ideal way to get a car around a corner should require ZERO steering. What determines this is your speed, line, steering/turn in and weight control aka braking/brake release. The brake release and turn in are inherently tied together in managing the weight. At this point, you can steer the car with the throttle as Purple Derple said. Now steering the car with the throttle does not mean a huge gob of it to get into oversteer, or an abrupt lift to do the same. Rather, think of it as less then 5% change in pedal travel to walk the line of slip.

To sum up what Purple said and I am supplementing, you want to be using 100% of your tires grip from the beginning of the braking zone until the wheel is pointed straight at the exit. That is achieved through those techniques. When you can do that consistently is when I personally recommend moving on to a stickier tire, however it is completely unrealistic for ANYONE to do that in every single corner, even Michael Schumacher would not achieve that.
You guys are awesome, thanks for all the input. It really is greatly appreciated, lot's of information to sort through.

I plan, maybe this year to take a couple of the Skip Barber racing schools. Hopefully I learn something there (I'm not a complete moron ). But for now, I just want to go out, have fun and enjoy my car. These things I added were bugging me for quite some time, so I upgraded them.
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      01-24-2013, 10:54 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purple Derple
Quote:
Originally Posted by yandy View Post
You guys are awesome, thanks for all the input. It really is greatly appreciated, lot's of information to sort through.

I plan, maybe this year to take a couple of the Skip Barber racing schools. Hopefully I learn something there (I'm not a complete moron ). But for now, I just want to go out, have fun and enjoy my car. These things I added were bugging me for quite some time, so I upgraded them.
What you want to do with skip is either advanced car control or the racing schools. The other stuff they offer will not be exciting or worth it for you. Don't waste your time with the high performance classes. Even tho the cars are cool the curriculum is lame. Actually, what you really want to do is their race series and then will never enjoy HPDE again, but that is a huge investment in your human capital most people cannot make. And buy and read their text book ahead of time so you can get the most out of the on track experience.
Cool, thanks for the info. I'm reading the going faster book as we speak. Puts allot of things into perspective at least. Very well written so far.
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      01-24-2013, 12:53 PM   #30
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Yandy,

While the delivery could have been smoother, Purple makes some excellent points. The main thing you want to keep in mind is that a stiffer setup isn't always better (especially when still learning the car). I don't know if you have adjustable coilovers, but with the addition of all these new parts at once, I suggest you start with a softer than normal setup. Although improved stiffness might get you more grip, it also means that the car will be much less progressive at its limits (snap oversteer possible), especially with rcomps. These parts will make the car have a lot less "give", so your reaction times will have to be quicker than before. So progressively work your way up faster times, but be more sensitive to lift-throttle oversteer! Good luck!
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      01-24-2013, 03:12 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bavarianstig View Post
Yandy,

While the delivery could have been smoother, Purple makes some excellent points. The main thing you want to keep in mind is that a stiffer setup isn't always better (especially when still learning the car). I don't know if you have adjustable coilovers, but with the addition of all these new parts at once, I suggest you start with a softer than normal setup. Although improved stiffness might get you more grip, it also means that the car will be much less progressive at its limits (snap oversteer possible), especially with rcomps. These parts will make the car have a lot less "give", so your reaction times will have to be quicker than before. So progressively work your way up faster times, but be more sensitive to lift-throttle oversteer! Good luck!
For your first point, yes he has great insight, which is why I stop paying attention to the how, and more on the what.

I do have double adjustable coil-overs (height, rebound). I will keep them somewhat soft and go as I feel the car handle per your advice.

Thanks!
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      01-24-2013, 04:20 PM   #32
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On a lighter note, I got the Solo-DL today, hardwired both CAN and USB Power in case I need to charge during sessions.

This is not the right suction cup mount, I think that should be here tomorrow (1/25). But in any case, this one would work till I do get the correct one. I got it to see how consistent or inconsistent I am and learn from it as well (not really worried about track times). Finally seeing braking, G, temps, pretty much anything you would need.

Picture
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      01-27-2013, 10:23 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yandy View Post
On a lighter note, I got the Solo-DL today, hardwired both CAN and USB Power in case I need to charge during sessions.

This is not the right suction cup mount, I think that should be here tomorrow (1/25). But in any case, this one would work till I do get the correct one. I got it to see how consistent or inconsistent I am and learn from it as well (not really worried about track times). Finally seeing braking, G, temps, pretty much anything you would need.

Picture
Is there any reason you have it mounted all the way over on the passenger side? Most people mount them in the center, or on the driver side so you can glance at the readout. Otherwise thats a bit dangerous to be looking all the way across...
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      01-28-2013, 02:32 AM   #34
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Yandy, good stuff out there. Some nice mods Creating a good list of items for my current 128i haha.

So anyhow.. I wanna tell you this; Modifying the car isn't that bad at all however you have to always remember, when you raise a car's capability, you have to move with it from driving skills POV...and I think the fella in the previous posts were trying to deliver that message but a bit failed on the comm. part

I wanna give you a different perspective if I can....There are a lot of good drivers out there that started with an Spec E30 such as Mike Skeen, James Clay Anthony Magagnoli etc. May be the one of the sole reasons that they are "good" is; When you can dance with less capable car thru every turn, especially a crap can like an e30 then you start excelling, and gain confidence. There is also the fact there when you can drive a 'momentum' car fast, you start to gain a different sense of limit. At this point, your car is VERY capable...But how much of it are you using?

I didn't start with an E30 just because I found great deal on e36 m3 that I couldn't pass. I did couple years of track days, then became a instructor now running clubracing ranks where I really enjoy the most. Am I still at my cars' capable limit? Close but not there yet...Although I have a recent track record at MidOhio, I am still 1 second at least from cars capability. Go ahead take a look at my youtube channel, you will find the track record video. I am proud of that lap, it still has room to grow although I am at a very similar pace like Conti ST cars that are at least double/triple the value of my current car... I am, may be putting 200 hp to the ground with 3006lbs running weight.

Anyhow long story short; Focus on yourself as much as focusing on your car. Spend sometime with a Driver Coach (not DE instructor) if you are really serious about this addiction. I can refer you to couple if you are interested.

Don't run out of talent before the corner, and don't get scared too late.
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      01-28-2013, 08:02 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by bavarianstig View Post
Is there any reason you have it mounted all the way over on the passenger side? Most people mount them in the center, or on the driver side so you can glance at the readout. Otherwise thats a bit dangerous to be looking all the way across...
I didn't really glance at it, though I do plan to move it a bit more center. The reason for it being there is, I wanted to hide the cables as much as possible, through the B pillar or A pillar, then under the trims. However, there wasn't enough cable to all the way from the A pillar. Most people leave it in the middle, and the cables are exposed, not a fan of that. If I can find a way, to get it under the covers more centered, then I'll move it that way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evice View Post
Yandy, good stuff out there. Some nice mods Creating a good list of items for my current 128i haha.

So anyhow.. I wanna tell you this; Modifying the car isn't that bad at all however you have to always remember, when you raise a car's capability, you have to move with it from driving skills POV...and I think the fella in the previous posts were trying to deliver that message but a bit failed on the comm. part

I wanna give you a different perspective if I can....There are a lot of good drivers out there that started with an Spec E30 such as Mike Skeen, James Clay Anthony Magagnoli etc. May be the one of the sole reasons that they are "good" is; When you can dance with less capable car thru every turn, especially a crap can like an e30 then you start excelling, and gain confidence. There is also the fact there when you can drive a 'momentum' car fast, you start to gain a different sense of limit. At this point, your car is VERY capable...But how much of it are you using?

I didn't start with an E30 just because I found great deal on e36 m3 that I couldn't pass. I did couple years of track days, then became a instructor now running clubracing ranks where I really enjoy the most. Am I still at my cars' capable limit? Close but not there yet...Although I have a recent track record at MidOhio, I am still 1 second at least from cars capability. Go ahead take a look at my youtube channel, you will find the track record video. I am proud of that lap, it still has room to grow although I am at a very similar pace like Conti ST cars that are at least double/triple the value of my current car... I am, may be putting 200 hp to the ground with 3006lbs running weight.

Anyhow long story short; Focus on yourself as much as focusing on your car. Spend sometime with a Driver Coach (not DE instructor) if you are really serious about this addiction. I can refer you to couple if you are interested.

Don't run out of talent before the corner, and don't get scared too late.
Thanks for all the pointers, I do believe that driver skill should be first. I wasn't the most educated into this when I started, didn't buy the car to do this. One day I tried it and got hooked. I'm in it a bit deep (money, mods, and so forth) with this car to really "afford a track car". If I can get a cheap daily beater, then this will be my track car. There's allot of time spent in it, and I guess you can say I'm attached.

There's a guy down here David Tuaty that I plan to soon invest in. I have heard nothing but good comments, and him getting people 3-4 seconds just on the first couple of sessions.

There will be some time/money invested in my skills, as I found out the hard way.

Thanks again for the advice and story line.
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      01-28-2013, 08:12 AM   #36
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If you are in FL area, try http://www.nextleveldriving.com/coaches/

Just the line up is made up of rockstars. Just a suggestion. Randy is in FL and phenomenal driver and coach.

Enjoy.
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      01-28-2013, 08:13 AM   #37
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If you are in FL area, try http://www.nextleveldriving.com/coaches/

Just the line up is made up of rockstars. Just a suggestion. Randy is in FL and phenomenal driver and coach.

Enjoy.
I know Randy, we talk sometimes at the NASA events. I almost/did forget that he does coaching too. Love to see him drive that e46 out there, he's great.
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      01-28-2013, 08:27 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Evice View Post
If you are in FL area, try http://www.nextleveldriving.com/coaches/

Just the line up is made up of rockstars. Just a suggestion. Randy is in FL and phenomenal driver and coach.

Enjoy.
By the way, I just contact them and waiting for a call or email back.

Thanks
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      01-28-2013, 08:28 AM   #39
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By the way, I just contact them and waiting for a call or email back.

Thanks
Great. You will only get better.
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