DIY M3 1M Rear Subframe Bushing Install

[INDPNDT]

Question - Are the subframe bushings from 08-10 the same as from 11-12?

I know in 2011 they upgraded the springs so I'm wondering if they also upgraded the bushings. I'm wondering if it's worth the upgrade on a 2011 with only 10k miles.

[syenisch]

I can't definitely answer, but I have not once heard of any difference. This is a common enough mod that I would be shocked if they are different and no one has commented on it.

[jgardner240]

syenisch,

Just wanted to say, I used your guide to do my own bushings this past weekend and it was a big help. Thanks for posting this!

Took me about 8 hours, start to finish. I also rented the bushing tool from HP Autowerks, which was key. I'd say the job wasn't terribly difficult, just time consuming. Also, it was WELL worth the effort. The car is much more fun to drive now.

Thanks again!

-JG

[Bullitt]

Thanks a lot for the DIY! Was set on having a shop do it, but now I'm having thoughts of doing it myself.

The torque specs are here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...16&postcount=1

(in the attached PDF file)

[syenisch]

Happy to help, guys. By the way I don't frequent the forums like I used to when I posted this. If anyone has any questions, send me a message so I'll get an e-mail notification.

[SfValley335i]

If you want to do the install in 3 hours, then use a impact wrench. Using hand tools will take you much longer and more energy.

[dcaron9999]

Thanks for the excellent and most complete DIY. You convinced me to do this on my own. I did not have the bushing puller tool to do this, but I manage to salvage parts at the local hardware store, and biuld a mock up tool.

It was a P-I-T-A puliing the old bushings out. I broke and stripped countless number of washers bolts and threaded rods. Thank god I was using an electric impact gun, because extreme forces are required to remove the old bushings out and insert the new.

Do you yourself a favor, and buy 5/8" threaded rods. Any smaller will strip or break with the tremendous pressure required to remove the bushings.

Also keep lubricating your threaded rods with spray lube. Ditto for the four subframe sleeves, and bushings. Heating the bushing sleeves with a torch did not help much.

Assuming you are not remoiving the subframe from the car, I recommend you loosen up the four main bushing bolts, to help you maneuver the subframe at the rear center point with one jack, and raise and lower one of the four corners you are working on with the other jack. You will need two quality jacks, as you will have to continuously re-adjust to gain enough space between frame of car, and subframe.

Also the rear brake lines need to be disconnected. Get yourself a bottle or two of your favorite brake fluid + pressure bleeder before starting, as you will want to bleed your lines after opening the brake lines.

Job took me about 12 hours, and three trips to the hardware store. What a bitch of a job. Now I understand why the shops wanted $800-$1000 for this.

Took the car to the track tonight with the new M3 bushing installed. Nice difference in the curves and especially through the esses, where weight is shifted rapidly from side to side. Floating and vague movement is greatly reduced. The car behaves much better over bumps when taking high speed turns.

On the street, it makes my 135i back end firmer, and more planted.

Overall, this is a great mod, and this DIY is worth the sweating and cursing...

[pj.rodriguez]

Is this something that you have to do with jacks? I have access to a lift, and if that'll make it any easier, then I'll do it.

[dcaron9999]

I recommend two jacks, to help you maneuver the subframe corners, and gain enough space to extract and insert the bushings. As I mentioned, its a tough job, and is going to require a lot of patience and decent tools for you to perform as a DIY. If you can get your hands (rent, or borrow) on the official subframe bushing tool, it will simplify the task.

[pj.rodriguez]

So this job really belongs on jacks and not a lift? Thanks for the reply. I will definitely get the tool that you need to remove the bushings/install them

[dcaron9999]

Originally Posted by pj.rodriguez

So this job really belongs on jacks and not a lift? Thanks for the reply. I will definitely get the tool that you need to remove the bushings/install them

I would agree on ideal method is to use jacks, unless you are considering removing the entire subframe from the car, which I believe some mechanics might entertain.

[kirkbar]

Just finished this DIY today and I'm now drinking a ice cold beer!

I used the HP Autowerks tool (http://www.hpashop.com/Bushing-Tool-...g-tool-kit.htm) and I'm glad I did. The easy part was removing the bushings - took maybe 10 minutes per corner. Used a 24mm ratcheting wrench.

The rear bushings went in fast and easy too, but the two front ones were a PITA! No matter how I arranged my jacks - I could not get enough clearance between the body pin and the subframe. I was able to shove the bushing in the gap - but there was no way a washer and nut were going to fit. That damn pin!

I improvised and just jacked the corner of the subframe from underneeth until the bushing slipped in about an inch or so. This was not easy as the subframe shifts about - but I did it. After, there was plenty of room to get the hardware in. This step took me at least two hours.

All and all - not a bad job - just plan a day for it. It took me about 5 hours. Thanks for the DIY guide!

BTW: You can't find silicone grease at Autozone, etc. You can find it at Home Depot in the plumbing section. Used to grease O rings, etc.

[Dackelone]

Just for reference sakes...


Dackel's replacement of rear suspension OE bushings with M3 ones…
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...1#post11189793

[trainerjon]

I finished this mod at my mechanics' house yesterday. This is a big job, but my mechanic came through with a great set of Kommen subframe bushing tools. (if in so cal feel free to message me and I'll pass on his info).
The biggest challenge by far were the front 2 that come out of the bottom, but go in from the top. It is difficult to safely lower the subframe low enough to to get in from the top. The rears were pretty straight forward - out the bottom, back in from the bottom. You will definitely need 2 jacks, 4 stands, some racheting 24 mm wrenches, and we did a complete brake bleed so a pressure bleeder was helpful.
It was really fun helping my mechanic and being part of this experience. I learned a lot from it, and each time I DIY successfully it helps confidence level.

My first impression after the install is that the car feels absolutely amazing! I don't know why I didn't do this sooner (111k miles). I may never sell this car now! I recently did a stiffer sway bar and the combo of the sway bar and RSFB's makes the car feel so much better. No more rear end wiggles while getting on the freeway when driving over the reflectors, and car feels much more planted.

[mr.fabulous]

tightening torque (Bentley): subframe to body 100nm (74 ft-lb), replace fasteners

[ianc]

Looks like M3 bushings in the rear and inserts in the front might be an acceptable compromise from a DIY perspective?

ianc

[asbrr]

Originally Posted by ianc

Looks like M3 bushings in the rear and inserts in the front might be an acceptable compromise from a DIY perspective?

ianc

Or buy aftermarket 2 piece bushings like Whiteline which are much easier to install....and replace all 4.

[Zombie_Head]

Originally Posted by mr.fabulous

tightening torque (Bentley): subframe to body 100nm (74 ft-lb), replace fasteners

I know this is old but i am about to do this.

Which fasteners? Do you mean the bolts that comes with washers? BMW Part Number 33306793892?

No need to drop the exhaust system or remove the rear shock mounts?

I already ordered the front arms along with the bolts, nuts, clips, headlight level etc. Now i am looking at the related hardware for the rear, about to order front and rear SF bushings and 33306793892 4 new bolts (they come with washers).