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09-25-2018, 03:17 AM | #1 |
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Door open warning (despite doors being shut - sometimes while moving)
2011 N55 135i (E82)
A few months ago my car occasionally started doing this wierd window up - down - up down thing on unlock. It’d do it like 5 times and then stop and it’d only do it once a month or so, I didn’t think much of it. Now this is becoming really problematic. Symptoms I’m experiencing: - When unlocking the car, the windows (both sides) will do this: https://streamable.com/8ke5p - It USUALLY goes away after I start the car. - Sometimes, it will do this while I’m on the highway - a message briefly shows up on Idrive saying “doornopen” It’s not the GD door - it’s definitely closed and secured. It’s a sensor issue. Has anyone seen this before? Not too sure where to start. Last edited by bung206; 09-25-2018 at 06:39 AM.. |
09-25-2018, 03:25 AM | #2 |
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Also I thought I’d add this car is completely factory standard. No mods. I’ve done some reading on this issue and I’ve heard people who have changed their headlights / angel eyes with aftermarket ones have this problem - mine is all standard.
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09-25-2018, 05:30 AM | #3 |
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These cars get real funky when the battery is at the end of its life. It may crank fine but start doing weird things like you described. On mine, the dashboard would restart while I was on the freeway - gauges went to zero, a ton of lights came on and it would chime, then repeat. But the car started and drove normally. Truly bizarre behavior. Have the battery checked out.
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09-25-2018, 06:39 AM | #4 |
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My battery is “only” about 18 months or so old. And when I installed it, I did register it too.
I drive the car about 10,000 miles per year, a combination of short and long trips so it’s not like it sits for months. Surely a battery should last for more than ~2 years? Especially considering these take AGM batteries which are expensive compared to the “standard” kind? |
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09-30-2018, 05:52 AM | #5 |
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Battery voltage is good at Min of 9.88 (when cranking) max of 14.26 (with the engine on - a/c, headlights etc on full blast).
This leads me to believe the battery is healthy. |
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09-30-2018, 07:01 AM | #6 | |
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Quote:
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don't read this. too late...
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10-09-2018, 01:35 PM | #7 |
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I must admit I've never looked but I assume our cars have the normal switch in the door jamb. I would look at them and be sure the switch has not come loose. If the projection of the little plunger is reduced by loose screws, the switch may not close creating the symptoms you describe.
But batteries can fail in 2 years too. I agree that batteries cause the car to do absolutely stupid things. When my alternator quit, the windshield wipers came on and would not go off. Same thing happened when my wife's battery catastropically failed. My battery is over 9 years old. My wife's failed in just over 4. The life is not very dependable. BMWs absolutely freak out over low voltage. Your 14V measurement is not the battery, it is the alternator. The battery cannot produce over 14V. I do not know what cranking voltage should be but your voltage without a large load should be about 13.2V. If it is less than that, it either needs charged or replaced. "Bad" batteries are less than 13V.
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Ordered 5/22/09, Completed 6/4/09, At Port 6/9/09, On the Georgia Highway 6/13/09, Ship Arrived Charleston 6/24/09 at 10pm, PCD 7/21/09 |
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10-14-2018, 06:40 AM | #8 | |
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I think it’s unlikely that this is a sensor issue because both doors started doing it at the same time. If it was indeed a sensor fault I’d expect it’d have started on one door first and then the other. I just don’t think it’s a battery issue because the load test reveals the battery is healthy. I’m not in the mood to start throwing parts at it before I can validate what is faulty. Problem is getting worse now. It does it when I’m driving as well, and sometimes when I get to my destination and open the door, the window won’t drop half an inch as it should either. Just waiting on my diagnostic cable to be returned to me so I can scan it with ISTA/D and see what faults (if any) are stored. |
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10-15-2018, 03:06 PM | #9 |
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A cheap way to read and clear codes is to get a OBDII to bluetooth device (about $20, available on Amazon) and Torque, a phone or tablet application.
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128i Convertible, MT, Alpine White, Black Top, Taupe Leatherette, Walnut, Sport
Ordered 5/22/09, Completed 6/4/09, At Port 6/9/09, On the Georgia Highway 6/13/09, Ship Arrived Charleston 6/24/09 at 10pm, PCD 7/21/09 |
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10-15-2018, 04:21 PM | #10 |
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I would check your ground straps
https://blog.fcpeuro.com/bmw-ground-...ry-replacement Could be your FRM as well Not sure if Australia get the extended FRM warranty Last edited by optigrab; 10-15-2018 at 04:45 PM.. |
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10-16-2018, 07:03 AM | #11 |
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An even cheaper way to clear codes is to just disconnect the battery. You need to leave it disconnected for several minutes, I would do it for half an hour, to let capacitors discharge and the memory to actually clear. You will loose radio presets also. But if there is something goofy going on in your computer, a reset like this may help.
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128i Convertible, MT, Alpine White, Black Top, Taupe Leatherette, Walnut, Sport
Ordered 5/22/09, Completed 6/4/09, At Port 6/9/09, On the Georgia Highway 6/13/09, Ship Arrived Charleston 6/24/09 at 10pm, PCD 7/21/09 |
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01-18-2024, 09:36 PM | #13 |
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Yes, there was a fix.
I messaged the OP of this thread as he had the same issue as me: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1587346 He very graciously assisted me - it appears in my case it was some kind of "coding" issue and not a fault with any sensors/modules. As for how he actually fixed it I have no idea, but it involved a BMW specific OBD cable plugged into my laptop and some settings entered into either ISTA-D or NCS Expert, I don't exactly remember what. Good luck!! |
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