I decided it’s time...for the track... need help

[Gartho]

I had a 128i and I now am going to get a 135. I want to drive fast on a track and don’t plan on spending a lot. Can you tell me where to start?
I guess I need to join a club?🤔
And what is the minimum I need to do other than a helmet?
Thanks!
Garth

[The Wind Breezes]

Originally Posted by Gartho

I want to drive fast on a track and don’t plan on spending a lot.
Garth

Unclear whether you're looking for a one-time experience or to get into the hobby but here are a few observations:

--You can't do what you want without spending a lot unless you drive like a girl at a really lame event

--135i not a beginner's car, you won't be fast even in a miata or gti for a long time, so don't upgrade your 128i just for the track

--135i needs a lot of mods for the track once you are able to push it.

--To get on a track find a local track or car club and ask them, not us

[Gartho]

I read a long time ago about a guy who drove to the track with track tires in the back of his car. He would swap them out and go have fun.
That is what I am hoping to do.
If anyone can help point me in that direction let me know.
If you don’t want to help because I bothered you with my question or you want to be negative...
Please don’t reply.
Thanks

[519.E82]

I would recommend reading some other threads there's a lot of great info out there. I personally just started going myself but have a track near me that does open-lapping so no club needed just pay at gate and go as many times as you want. I would recommend if you are going to have more track focused brake pads and fluid. For my use as I pack a lot of extra stuff when i go i plan to do a trailer hitch and tow a small trailer such as the leroy engineering trailer so that I can carry everything easier. This is just my personal preference but lots of others built custom trailers using the harbor freight trailer as a base.

Other than brake pads and fluids make sure you're topped up on coolant, have good tire life, and after an event or 2 and if you are serious I would consider your first track mod to be camber plates. These cars can destroy tires without them and they will greatly increase tire life. I went with the Dinan plates as the are the cheapest, easiest, cause no extra NHV, and they worked great for me.

Good luck and have fun!

[chris_flies]

Get the car, put on a good set of brake pads and some good brake fluid, and go. Develop your driving skills for the first year or so, and then upgrade your car piece-by-piece until you're happy with it. Don't worry about being fast; just have fun. If you've never driven on track before, the WORST thing to do is hop out there for the first time on R-Compound tires. Go out there and kill some crappy all-seasons, then upgrade little-by-little. Sticky tires mask terrible driving habits and technique, and they tend to be sensitive and snappy at the limit. I started with cheap-o Kumho Ecsta PS-31 summer tires, and I'm now on Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R's, which are a very sticky tire.

I'd recommend working with SCCA; their refund policy is nice, the events are fairly small, and you don't need a membership to participate (Wash. DC Region has a $15 weekend membership fee).

Once you've got your driver mod going, a good first mod would be M3 control arms in the front. They have much stiffer mounts, and give you a hint more negative camber which reduces understeer. Do research, learn stuff, and have a good time. It's really rewarding looking back at where I was three years ago, and where I am now...

[beattiecj]

Do what @chris_flies said SCCA, NASA, SCDA, Hooked On Driving. I think all give an instructor to teach you at first, it's very informative especially the first time on track.

Here is a thread on what I've done with my 1 series for the track https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=24784129

[Gartho]

Great! Ok...now about the which 135 to get. I heard about a turbo change was it 2011 or 12? This car will be a Sunday driver... so if I get an old one and the turbos go can I replace it with the single turbo one?
Is there a year I need to stay away from?

What about miles? what is too many on this engine?

Thanks guys...you are helping me a bunch!
Garth

[dtla1]

The transition from N54 (twin turbo) to N55 (single turbo, twin scroll) was between the model year 2010 and 2011. MY 2011 onward have N55 engines.

It's generally accepted that the N55 is a little more reliable, but I assume this can vary from car to car.

[Mark Aubele]

While a 135i is a decent track car, if I were buying a car specifically to track it certainly wouldn't be a 135i.

[berns]

your 128i, especially if it has no sunroof and is a manual, will be a way better platform to start driving on track than a 135i will. 128i is lighter and more reliable. get nice pads, rotors, lines, fluids, decent rubber, and see how it feels. Maybe eventually you'll want to upgrade the suspension, toss a limited slip diff in there, invest in some bucket seats so you don't move around so much, and you'll have a great time. No need to bring tires to the track with you, many of us drive to the track and back on the same set of tires.

First step is to register for an event, get an instructor to ride with you, learn the ropes, see if you even like this.

There are a handful of other BMWs I'd choose to track before an e82. E36 M3, E46 M3, E92 M3, Z4 M Coupe. E82 135i is probably one of the worst decisions you could make for a track car. It is a pain in the ass to setup, the N54 and N55 variants will ALL struggle with heat and reliability issues when driven hard. The chassis have so many rubber bushings and poorly constructed arms, bad suspension geometry designed for comfort and runflat tires.. It's an expensive uphill battle if you ever plan to get serious. Ask me how I know.

Most importantly, go have fun. You can have fun in anything. I just drove my friends s2000 at an event last week, it has less than half the power of my 135i, weighs probably 600lbs less, consistently runs slower laptimes than me, but is SO much fun, and a great car to learn in. Here's a in-car video to show you that you don't need power or a ton of parts.

[bbnks2]

Sure the M cars have stiffer bushings, but, if you want to get "serious" about tracking an E36 M3, E46 M3, Z4M, or E92 M3 you'll end up doing ALL of the same mods... suspension arms, bushings, coilovers, radiator, oil cooler, etc. Wheel fitment is the only real detriment to the E82 (except the 1M of course). These cars are no more difficult to set up than any other Mcpherson strut suspension. The rear HA5 multi-link suspension is the same basic design used on all the cars you listed (except the E36 which was an older suspension design) and is one of the best in the industry. Soft bushings for comfort, and owners inexperience, doesn't equate to the E82 having poor suspension geometry.

The Z4M has an even shorter wheelbase than an E82. It's hardly an easy car to drive and surely benefits from quite a bit of modification to make it stable enough to enjoy at high speeds. Unless you're talking about buying a GT spec car or something lol...

I'm not exactly disagreeing with you though. I'd love to have an E46 M3 as a track car or an E92 M3. Both cars will out-run a heavily modified 128i or 135i in bone stock form. Consider cost though... you can get a 128i or a 135i for $8-$14k and drop another $10k into it over years (which buys a LOT of bushings) and still be ahead of the cost of any of the cars you listed and you don't need to find a bank willing to loan you $30k for a 15 year old car lol...

Then consider the upkeep just to keep that E46 M3 in bone stock shape... Everything cost more on those cars. Every time I go to the track I see a new E82. It's a great budget track car. It's an even better tuner car because you can cheaply modify it over time. Shit mine is practically a 1M at this point (less the body panels). The tuning and upgrading is a hobby that comes with the territory of "racing" a car. Half those E36's you see at a track day probably didn't start life as M3's. Most of them are cheaper 318is or something that people have built over time. If you have the money then you mgiht as well just go buy a fully prepped race-car. You can get a used M235iR for like 60-80k. Im sure they will drop in price even more as BMW moves toward promoting teams to buy their new flagship race car the B58 M240i evo.

A BRZ would be something to look at as a cheap track day car. If you want to run down porches and corvettes at the track though then you're going to be spending $40K whether you dump it into a 135i or you buy V8 corvette lol