BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      03-16-2020, 02:23 PM   #1
nieves.e82
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255 squared

What's going on, trying to see if anyone has been successful running 255 squared on their stock body 135i.
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      03-16-2020, 03:55 PM   #2
Mark Aubele
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We had 255/40r17 RE71r square, 17x9s, ET50 rear, ET35 front, no fender mods. Just moved to 18x11s and 295s square.
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      03-16-2020, 04:16 PM   #3
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Running 255-35-18 RS-4 on Apex 18x9 front ET42 I believe...18x9.5 ET 58 rear. TCK coils adjusted all most all the way up, 5mm spacer front, -3.0 neg camber. Fenders slightly pulled in front.
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      03-16-2020, 04:21 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by lakefront View Post
Running 255-35-18 RS-4 on Apex 18x9 front ET42 I believe...18x9.5 ET 58 rear. TCK coils adjusted all most all the way up, 5mm spacer front, -3.0 neg camber. Fenders slightly pulled in front.
Running 3 degrees of camber all around or just the front?
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      03-16-2020, 05:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nieves.e82 View Post
Running 3 degrees of camber all around or just the front?
With our setup we were running -3.5 front -2.2 rear.
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      03-16-2020, 09:09 PM   #6
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I'm running a square setup of 255-35-18 RE71r on 8.5" ET52 style 264s. I have a spacer at the front to get ET40.

I've rolled and slightly pulled the front fenders, as well as trimmed down a fair amount of the bumper tab. With -2.0 degrees of camber and at the stock height on the base suspension, I still rub at what's left of the bumper tab at medium/high compression.
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      03-16-2020, 11:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nieves.e82 View Post
Running 3 degrees of camber all around or just the front?
Sorry....just in front. rears have no problem fitting. Wish I would have gone 265s in back.
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      03-16-2020, 11:20 PM   #8
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Excellent wheel/tire fitment reference....

https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc...-Fitment-Guide

I wanna run 255/40/17 square on ET38 17x8.5 wheels...gonna be tight out back even with a fender roll I think.
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Last edited by SKI-R; 03-16-2020 at 11:26 PM.. Reason: Typo
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      03-17-2020, 07:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Aubele View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by nieves.e82 View Post
Running 3 degrees of camber all around or just the front?
With our setup we were running -3.5 front -2.2 rear.
No rubbing at all?
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      03-17-2020, 05:06 PM   #10
lowside67
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Getting 255-40-17 on the appropriate 17x9s (they are pinched on an 8.5 - they are barely square on a 9") on the front of a stock fendered 1 series is possible but requires all the pieces to be perfect.

You need coilovers with short springs above the tire, camber plates (set at max negative camber, for sure more than 2.5 degrees negative), and a perfect offset wheel (for a 9", around +35). With those things, the 255s will fit perfectly. Adding the 1M arms will make it harder to clear and will have it rub under some circumstances.

I have gone through this exact process on my 128 and have tested the above thoroughly. Below is a photo of my car with 17x9 +35F, +50R with 255-40-17 RE71Rs WITH max camber plates and M arms. It rubs. Before the arms it was perfect, but the car is faster with the extra camber from the arms (-3.6 instead of -2.8) so I tolerated the rubbing.

-Mark

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      03-17-2020, 07:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nieves.e82 View Post
No rubbing at all?
No but the offset was perfect, tire about 3mm from strut. Our car was also not quite as low as Mark's shown above, exact same setup otherwise.
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      03-18-2020, 08:38 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
Getting 255-40-17 on the appropriate 17x9s (they are pinched on an 8.5 - they are barely square on a 9") on the front of a stock fendered 1 series is possible but requires all the pieces to be perfect.

You need coilovers with short springs above the tire, camber plates (set at max negative camber, for sure more than 2.5 degrees negative), and a perfect offset wheel (for a 9", around +35). With those things, the 255s will fit perfectly. Adding the 1M arms will make it harder to clear and will have it rub under some circumstances.

I have gone through this exact process on my 128 and have tested the above thoroughly. Below is a photo of my car with 17x9 +35F, +50R with 255-40-17 RE71Rs WITH max camber plates and M arms. It rubs. Before the arms it was perfect, but the car is faster with the extra camber from the arms (-3.6 instead of -2.8) so I tolerated the rubbing.

-Mark

Fitment looks great Mark! Do you think a spacer would help the rubbing on the m arms?
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      03-18-2020, 10:57 AM   #13
lowside67
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You are misunderstanding - it rubs the fender after the addition of the M arms. A spacer would make this worse. The very best possible fitment would be camber plates set to maximum negative camber and stock lower arms (which keep the tire inboard) but that would produce less negative camber overall than adding the M arms.

And to be clear - the setup in that photo rubs in a variety of scenarios. I considered it barely viable for racing purposes and it would have driven me mental on a street car.

-Mark
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      03-18-2020, 12:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowside67 View Post
Getting 255-40-17 on the appropriate 17x9s (they are pinched on an 8.5 - they are barely square on a 9") on the front of a stock fendered 1 series is possible but requires all the pieces to be perfect.

You need coilovers with short springs above the tire, camber plates (set at max negative camber, for sure more than 2.5 degrees negative), and a perfect offset wheel (for a 9", around +35). With those things, the 255s will fit perfectly. Adding the 1M arms will make it harder to clear and will have it rub under some circumstances.

I have gone through this exact process on my 128 and have tested the above thoroughly. Below is a photo of my car with 17x9 +35F, +50R with 255-40-17 RE71Rs WITH max camber plates and M arms. It rubs. Before the arms it was perfect, but the car is faster with the extra camber from the arms (-3.6 instead of -2.8) so I tolerated the rubbing.

-Mark
I hope you fully understand your car is no longer STX legal.
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      03-19-2020, 07:54 PM   #15
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Camber plates, -3 or more up front, 18x9 +42 and you can do 255 or 265s all around.
Biggest factor for front fitment will be getting your spring perch above the top of the tire, which will likely mean removing the helper on your coilovers up front.
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      03-20-2020, 11:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kgolf31 View Post
I hope you fully understand your car is no longer STX legal.
To be clear - I had stock arms with offset bushings to simulate the length of M arms. I just say "M arms" for other people as literally nobody other than an STX competitor would ever choose offset bushings over just buying the arms.

I don't even own the car anymore regardless.

-Mark
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      04-08-2020, 06:12 PM   #17
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When I ran a 135i I was using 255's square. Had M arm's up front with -3.2* of camber. This was with stock 264 style wheels (8.5's all around ET52).

The rear is easy to fit 255 or larger, the problem area is up front. Get enough negative camber and the right offset wheel and you can do 255's fairly easily.
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      04-10-2020, 02:11 AM   #18
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I run 255/35/18 RE-71's on BMW 135 ET50 wheels.

Things not stock:
Rolled Fenders
Fronts have a 10mm spacer (so effectively ET40).
M3 Control Arms
GC Camber plates (Thx, JPuehl)
KW Clubsports with Swift Springs (Thx, berns )
Ground off the lip between front bumper cover and front wheel panels (pretty standard mod for this)
Moved front quarter panels out as far as possible (increases visible gap to hood slightly) (thx, Ginger_Extract )

Camber is -3.2 in front, -2.2 in rear

I don't notice any rubbing. Thx to JPuehl for convincing me it was possible.

Here are some pics of the car on track in that config:





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      04-10-2020, 08:54 AM   #19
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A 255 RE71R really is best suited to a 9"+ wheel. It will certainly fit on an 8.5" and that will make it easier to fit the car without rubbing since it's being pinched narrower. But you are paying for rubber that is not as effectively being used and it's heavier and more expensive.

-Mark
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      04-11-2020, 01:22 PM   #20
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I've run 255/40 dunlops on 17x9 ~37 offset after 5mm spacer; ARC8s, and BW TA16s. The TA16s supposedly run slightly wider than advertised, however. +37 is about as close as I can comfortably run against my TCK's and those are narrow bodied shocks.

Maximum neg camber out of turner race camber plates, but I was never able to get rid of rubbing against the front tab on big dips, but it didn't get noticeably worse after adding the M3 wishbones. I think the dunlops run wider than the RE71s.
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      04-12-2020, 12:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
I run 255/35/18 RE-71's on BMW 135 ET50 wheels.

Things not stock:

Moved front quarter panels out as far as possible (increases visible gap to hood slightly) (thx, Ginger_Extract
Can you clarify how much this 'gained'? Maybe a close up pic too?

Thanks
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      04-12-2020, 10:21 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKI-R View Post
Can you clarify how much this 'gained'? Maybe a close up pic too?

Thanks
A few MM...not much. But everything helps on this car.

Some pics from Jake Stumph's adventure here (where I got the idea):

https://oppositelock.kinja.com/modif...ory-1737971102
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