LSD - Ready to pull the trigger tell me what to get

[asiflicious]

Originally Posted by duder13

Interesting. I've been thinking about adding an LSD in the coming year, but I've been waffling on it a little. Neither my 911 nor Cayman had a mechanical LSD, and no current McLaren cars come with one, so there is some precedent for having an electronic LSD in fast cars.

It's definitely an upgrade worth getting, but I'd recommend doing coilovers, m3 control arms, and proper tires before spending big money on an LSD that may or may not be worth the investment to you.

[duder13]

Originally Posted by asiflicious

It's definitely an upgrade worth getting, but I'd recommend doing coilovers, m3 control arms, and proper tires before spending big money on an LSD that may or may not be worth the investment to you.

I think coilovers are overkill for my usage, but I've already got m3 control arms, new rear toe arms, a M3 front sway bar, a Bilstein B12 kit, Dinan camber plates and shock mounts and Whiteline two-piece RSFBs sitting in my house waiting for install next month. I already ditched the run-flats, so the LSD would be the final piece.

[asiflicious]

Originally Posted by duder13

I think coilovers are overkill for my usage, but I've already got m3 control arms, new rear toe arms, a M3 front sway bar, a Bilstein B12 kit, Dinan camber plates and shock mounts and Whiteline two-piece RSFBs sitting in my house waiting for install next month. I already ditched the run-flats, so the LSD would be the final piece.

I desperately need a proper spring and damper setup, the stock suspension is trash

[asiflicious]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Agreed. It's fine just removing the ediff feature, but you really need to change a few more things.

I did a little bit of messing around in the DSC module; ended up changing a bunch of brake and 'nanny' things that everyone who goes in there ends up coding-out, but I also decided to explore inputting 1M values in for the oversteer coefficients. It made DTC mode less like a useless gimmick mode, and more like a proper goldilocks step between the nanny state that is default, and sideways at the slightest breath of throttle. It's perfect for driving in the rain, as it doesn't interfere too quickly. You can get sideways and crank-out some serious wheel spin (128i spinning in second is hysterical) but it'll step in relatively gently when you get too far out of whack, which is reassuring.

The real difference made by the 'proper' diff being installed, happened after removing all of the nannies so that the darned thing could do its job. Now it's just a wonderful balance; grip when you need it, slip when you don't want it.

Could you expand more about what you did with the DSC module? I finally got around to disabling the Ediff on my car last night and it did make a good difference.

[iminhell1]

... so, I had rear wheel speed sensor codes. Wasn't sure why, the sensors read voltage as they should.
Looked over the coding of my DSC. I don't know if I did it (99% likely) or if it was from something else, but the direction wasn't correct. They where reading forward as backwards.
I don't know how long I've had this happening. All I know is these codes did not show up until I started playing with ISTA/d. MHD & Carly never showed anything.

Havta go for a drive and see if it feels different or not, guessing it will.



*edit*
Ya that's much better. DTC, WOT and just steer. No more snap oversteer or throttle cut.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by asiflicious

Could you expand more about what you did with the DSC module? I finally got around to disabling the Ediff on my car last night and it did make a good difference.

I disabled brake wear compensation, changed the front brake pressure model (didn't make much of a difference), changed the oversteer (uebersteerung) coefficients (both 0 and 1_2) to 1M values, and did the usual nanny coding.

Post 90 for the 1M values I speak of:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...1216642&page=5

This link has the "usual nanny coding":
https://bmw135iblog.wordpress.com/20...track-nannies/

[duder13]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

I disabled brake wear compensation, changed the front brake pressure model (didn't make much of a difference), changed the oversteer (uebersteerung) coefficients (both 0 and 1_2) to 1M values, and did the usual nanny coding.

Post 90 for the 1M values I speak of:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...1216642&page=5

This link has the "usual nanny coding":
https://bmw135iblog.wordpress.com/20...track-nannies/

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but I got my LSD installed. What’s weird is, after I coded out the e-diff in Protool, I went to change both the 0 and 1_2 Oversteer coefficients to the 1M values, but, when finalizing, it automatically kicks them to new values, 2 and 10. It won’t let me save 0 and 0. Any ideas???

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by duder13

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but I got my LSD installed. What’s weird is, after I coded out the e-diff in Protool, I went to change both the 0 and 1_2 Oversteer coefficients to the 1M values, but, when finalizing, it automatically kicks them to new values, 2 and 10. It won’t let me save 0 and 0. Any ideas???

That's a little weird. Did you use the right coding mode? There's one that codes from your .MAN file, and one that codes to the car's defaults...

[duder13]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

That's a little weird. Did you use the right coding mode? There's one that codes from your .MAN file, and one that codes to the car's defaults...

Hmmm. I'm not sure. I just used ProTools and went into expert mode. When you click on a setting, it opens and gives you a bunch of options to select, which is where I choose 00. Everything else I've tried to change with it works.

I'll try to take a pic next time to show ya. Thanks!!

[elitesales305]

Was at active autowerke and was speaking to one of the owners and was told to stay away from quaiffe since it tents to push the car through corners rather than open completely and spin.. said to stay with salisbury gear instead! From a mechs mouth to the forum no experience tracking or whatever.. might wanna weigh options

[Sam_M]

Originally Posted by elitesales305

said to stay with salisbury gear instead!

A what now?

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by elitesales305

Was at active autowerke and was speaking to one of the owners and was told to stay away from quaiffe since it tents to push the car through corners rather than open completely and spin.. said to stay with salisbury gear instead! From a mechs mouth to the forum no experience tracking or whatever.. might wanna weigh options

Salisbury Differential is just an odd name for a clutch-type differential. Those actually tend to cause front-end push through corners (if it's a 1.5 or 2-way) because they lock up on deceleration and have pre-load on the clutches. The Quaife ATB diff, and other such mechanical gear-type diffs bias torque to whichever wheel has more traction when load is applied. They handle like an open diff putting around town.

[elitesales305]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Salisbury Differential is just an odd name for a clutch-type differential. Those actually tend to cause front-end push through corners (if it's a 1.5 or 2-way) because they lock up on deceleration and have pre-load on the clutches. The Quaife ATB diff, and other such mechanical gear-type diffs bias torque to whichever wheel has more traction when load is applied. They handle like an open diff putting around town.

maybe it was late and I heard the story inverted?? or he had a long day and meant to tel lit the other way around..
didn't like the idea of whichever gear pushing the car through corners..
wanted to chime in so the op doesn't break the bank only to b pissed off!

[elitesales305]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Salisbury Differential is just an odd name for a clutch-type differential. Those actually tend to cause front-end push through corners (if it's a 1.5 or 2-way) because they lock up on deceleration and have pre-load on the clutches. The Quaife ATB diff, and other such mechanical gear-type diffs bias torque to whichever wheel has more traction when load is applied. They handle like an open diff putting around town.

why would anyone want the optional gear.. only to be pushed through corners??
again, I know nothing of tracking etc.. im new to dis , but true to dis!!! ya heard!!!!

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by elitesales305

why would anyone want the optional gear.. only to be pushed through corners??
again, I know nothing of tracking etc.. im new to dis , but true to dis!!! ya heard!!!!

Because what makes you understeer into a corner can make you oversteer going out of the corner, if you catch my drift (pun intended). Plus, having the lock-up means you aren't just one-wheel peeling out of every corner. Also means you can do a burnout with both tires turning, if that's important to you...