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      10-09-2013, 10:55 PM   #23
yawn
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Ferrodos are excellent. Only complaint is the occasional clunk when braking in reverse to braking forwards and vice versa ie change of directional braking.
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      10-10-2013, 02:42 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ulrichd View Post
I did the Stoptech drilled rotors in the front, stock rotors in the back and Cool Carbon pads. I have about 3,500 miles on that setup and I am really happy with it. Also the brake dust is about 1/3 of the stock set-up.

I did it myself but I have done brakes before. On something as important as brakes I would not recommend "giving it a shot". Maybe try to find a good independent BMW shop.
Is there also 135i version of drilled options?
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      10-10-2013, 07:59 AM   #25
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I tried bedding the pads agressively a second time, while following instructions on CoolCarbon's web site. The pulsation was back at the end of both cycles of 15 stops, but only around that point. After cool down and during the first 10+ hard stops or so, braking was pretty powerful, and gradual.

I did not remove my Titanium shields, but might try that to see if heat is then better dissipated into the caliper and brake fluid. I just hope that I will not fry my caliper piston seals or crack my pistons with heat generated by the "Cool" Carbons.

Ive had the car for about 3 months, brought to the track once a week for the last 2 months. During this time, the pads, rotors, caliper pistons and seals survived, and still looked good prior to switching to Cool Carbon pads. Never got any pulsation with my stock pads.

I have brand new M3 control arms, all bushings are in perfect shape, and wheel nuts are allways torqued properly with torque wrench. There is no contamination between wheel and hub; all surfaces are clean.

I do not feal any vibration during street use, and occasional hard stop, only after successive hard stops, such as when bedding, or track use.

My conclusion is that the CoolCarbon may not be the best pad to drive agressively on a 3300 pounds, 300HP car.
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      11-06-2018, 01:22 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I'll tell you... when it comes to brake rotors... I would ONLY use BMW original rotors. On my old e39 I have changed the rotors twice now. First ATE and then Bosch. Both just do not hold up to the rigors of Autobahn driving. The ATE's were batter than Bosch ones. But now I have gone to the BMW original rotors and I am very happy. No more warped rotors!! Also... while they look the same... all rotors are not. The BMW rotors were definitely heavier and I suppose better quality steel. I have done front brakes on my e39 now three times and I hope I am done for awhile.


PS: I have the Performance drilled and slotted rotors on my 135i. I like them. They do not really offer any advantage over stock. They just look cool. ECS has a good deal on them right now(or they did). You might also check some of the other dealer vendors on 1Addicts too.
I've had horrendous luck with non-BMW rotors; always end up with a bad steering wheel shake no matter how many miles or how I've driven on them, especially under spirited driving. This has happened 2 or 3 times now replacing rotors with non-BMW stuff. My BMW rotors put up with track days with full race pads and I never had an issue with em. Extra money seems worth it to me.
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      11-06-2018, 02:20 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris82 View Post
I've had horrendous luck with non-BMW rotors; always end up with a bad steering wheel shake no matter how many miles or how I've driven on them, especially under spirited driving. This has happened 2 or 3 times now replacing rotors with non-BMW stuff. My BMW rotors put up with track days with full race pads and I never had an issue with em. Extra money seems worth it to me.
Can you elaborate on the different types of rotors you've used? I'm considering going with stoptech directional vane sport rotors, these are high quality high carbon pieces. I would think this would be a quality product, but I do know what you mean about having poor quality aftermarket parts....
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      11-06-2018, 03:39 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asbrr View Post
Can you elaborate on the different types of rotors you've used? I'm considering going with stoptech directional vane sport rotors, these are high quality high carbon pieces. I would think this would be a quality product, but I do know what you mean about having poor quality aftermarket parts....
I have those Stoptech rotors on the front and they have been good. However, I am pretty easy on brakes.
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      11-06-2018, 06:20 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris82 View Post
I've had horrendous luck with non-BMW rotors; always end up with a bad steering wheel shake no matter how many miles or how I've driven on them, especially under spirited driving. This has happened 2 or 3 times now replacing rotors with non-BMW stuff. My BMW rotors put up with track days with full race pads and I never had an issue with em. Extra money seems worth it to me.
thrust rods...
Name:  thrus rod e82  lt.jpg
Views: 54
Size:  61.5 KB

You might want to check your front control arm bushings. On the front suspension, the thrust rod bushings go bad, and often times people think they have bad or warped rotors. When it fact it is the inner rubber bushing where it attached to the body that is shot. Typically you can feel the steering wheel wobble as you brake light to medium from say 45 mph to 20 mph, with no brake pedal pulsation... that is your front thrust rod bushings shot.

You can try using your foot to roll backwards the tire... IF it moves a lot than the thrust rod bushings are shot. But sometimes you need to get the wheel up in the air to check them.

But I also understand why you(and I!!) prefer BMW original brake rotors... they just are made of better quality steel, heavier metal than the OEM (aftermarket)brands, like, Zimmerman, Brembo, ebay, etc.

Dackel
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      11-08-2018, 09:51 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris82 View Post
I've had horrendous luck with non-BMW rotors; always end up with a bad steering wheel shake no matter how many miles or how I've driven on them, especially under spirited driving. This has happened 2 or 3 times now replacing rotors with non-BMW stuff. My BMW rotors put up with track days with full race pads and I never had an issue with em. Extra money seems worth it to me.
thrust rods...
Attachment 1931740

You might want to check your front control arm bushings. On the front suspension, the thrust rod bushings go bad, and often times people think they have bad or warped rotors. When it fact it is the inner rubber bushing where it attached to the body that is shot. Typically you can feel the steering wheel wobble as you brake light to medium from say 45 mph to 20 mph, with no brake pedal pulsation... that is your front thrust rod bushings shot.

You can try using your foot to roll backwards the tire... IF it moves a lot than the thrust rod bushings are shot. But sometimes you need to get the wheel up in the air to check them.

But I also understand why you(and I!!) prefer BMW original brake rotors... they just are made of better quality steel, heavier metal than the OEM (aftermarket)brands, like, Zimmerman, Brembo, ebay, etc.

Dackel
Hmmm, I'm almost positive it's the brakes. After repeated heavy braking it feels like the whole car is shaking (front and rear) not just the steering wheel. The more I brake the worse it gets. I don't have much of an issue with light braking or lower speed situations, it's after those rotors and pads heat up when things get bad. Also had the front arms and bushings replaced about 20k miles ago so they should be good
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      11-09-2018, 04:33 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris82 View Post
Hmmm, I'm almost positive it's the brakes. After repeated heavy braking it feels like the whole car is shaking (front and rear) not just the steering wheel. The more I brake the worse it gets. I don't have much of an issue with light braking or lower speed situations, it's after those rotors and pads heat up when things get bad. Also had the front arms and bushings replaced about 20k miles ago so they should be good
You could pick up a cheap set of run-out dial indicators from say Harbor Freight. Remove the front wheels and check the run out on the brake rotors as you turn the rotor by hand.

You might also remove the brake rotor and check for rust(buildup) between the brake disc and hub. This area should be shinny new steel... and NOT rusty. You could use a flex disc or angle cutter with the correct disc(or 3M scotch pad) to clean up the hub and rotor. You don't want to use a wire brush as this doesn't remove metal, it just polishes it up. You want clean, fresh, flat steel for the rotor to sit flush on the hub. Many people skip over this step when replacing their brakes.

See 18:15...


~05:00...




IF it's warped brake rotors... you will feel a vibration/pulsation in only in the brake pedal.

IF you feel the vibration in the steering wheel(only under braking!) & in car(seat of your pants)... it's a worn suspension component, like the thrust rod bushings.

Dackel
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      11-09-2018, 06:55 PM   #32
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A problem that varies with heat suggests something is binding. The rubber bushings in the calipers can degrade, and if the pins aren't lubed that's only going to make it worse. If only one pin is binding you could get a vibration. Pull the pads and check for irregular wear, and inspect the bushings and pins closely; service as necessary.

A piston binding would be less likely, especially if the fluid has been changed regularly, and that would probably result in a pull under braking, not vibration.
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