Suspenceful's 2008 BSM 135i build thread!

[Neiman Levenson]

yes yes and yes. cant wait for more

[suspenceful]

Made a little more progress last night. Got the turbos out and all oil/coolant lines off. Unbolting the manifolds was the easy part. Removing the coolant and oil lines from the block and from the turbos was a painful, tedious process since I planned on re-using the lines.















I started to remove the PS pump/pulley so I could remove the oil pan, but didn't have a large enough torx bit to loosen the tension on the belt. I'll grab one today and get back after it tonight. I'd like to drop the oil pan and clean everything up while replacing the gasket. Then I'll do the oil filter housing gaskets and start putting things back together!

[chadillac2000]

I wouldn't call it convenient by any means, but it's nice you're getting to take care of so much at once. When I install turbos I plan on doing the same thing. You've created so much room down there to install the new goodies. I'll need to pick up one of those engine supports as well.

A few questions after your lasts few posts:

Did you ever at any point have any smoke coming from your car before you embarked on this DIY? At decel at all? At idle?

Do your PR inlets mate right up to the new MMP turbos?

I assume removing the subframe and steering rack is mandatory to get enough room under there to be comfortable?

Why was removing the oil and coolant lines so tedious? Just because they're hard to reach and you were trying to avoid any type of kinking since you're reusing?

[suspenceful]

Originally Posted by chadillac2000

I wouldn't call it convenient by any means, but it's nice you're getting to take care of so much at once. When I install turbos I plan on doing the same thing. You've created so much room down there to install the new goodies. I'll need to pick up one of those engine supports as well.

A few questions after your lasts few posts:

Did you ever at any point have any smoke coming from your car before you embarked on this DIY? At decel at all? At idle?

Do your PR inlets mate right up to the new MMP turbos?

I assume removing the subframe and steering rack is mandatory to get enough room under there to be comfortable?

Why was removing the oil and coolant lines so tedious? Just because they're hard to reach and you were trying to avoid any type of kinking since you're reusing?

I only plan on getting in here once (assuming the MMP turbos hold up), so I want to take care of as much as I can. Answers to your questions:

No noticeable smoke before I removed them. I'm at ~115k miles and the turbos have been on there that whole time to my knowledge. Not sure if I just got lucky or what, but they have minimal shaft play and weren't leaking or burning.

The Precision Raceworks inlets won't mate up to the MMP turbos. The inlets have a 1.75" snout for stock turbos and the MMP's have a 2" turbo inlet snout. I have some MMP aluminum relocation inlets that will be installed with these turbos.

I'd definitely recommend removing the subframe and steering rack. At first I was just going to remove the subframe, but the steering rack was annoying. I couldn't imagine doing this job without a straight shot at everything from underneath.

The coolant and oil lines were a pain because they're pressed so tightly into the block and turbos. You don't have a ton of room to pull on them with your hands, so I basically had to pry all 8 lines off with a large flathead screwdriver. Some people completely bend the tabs where the bolts hold them on, but I didn't want to do that. I definitely nicked some edges up, but nothing that harmed the lines or mating surfaces. The top coolant lines for each turbo were probably the worst, but none of this was impossible. Just a pain in the ass. I'm debating replacing all 8 lines as preventative maintenance, but can't justify the $500+ it would cost.

[ianc]

A great read and great work; thanks for pointing me to it! Looking forward to more...

ianc

[Matticus91]

Man those new snails look nice!

[chadillac2000]

Originally Posted by suspenceful

I only plan on getting in here once (assuming the MMP turbos hold up), so I want to take care of as much as I can. Answers to your questions:

No noticeable smoke before I removed them. I'm at ~115k miles and the turbos have been on there that whole time to my knowledge. Not sure if I just got lucky or what, but they have minimal shaft play and weren't leaking or burning.

The Precision Raceworks inlets won't mate up to the MMP turbos. The inlets have a 1.75" snout for stock turbos and the MMP's have a 2" turbo inlet snout. I have some MMP aluminum relocation inlets that will be installed with these turbos.

I'd definitely recommend removing the subframe and steering rack. At first I was just going to remove the subframe, but the steering rack was annoying. I couldn't imagine doing this job without a straight shot at everything from underneath.

The coolant and oil lines were a pain because they're pressed so tightly into the block and turbos. You don't have a ton of room to pull on them with your hands, so I basically had to pry all 8 lines off with a large flathead screwdriver. Some people completely bend the tabs where the bolts hold them on, but I didn't want to do that. I definitely nicked some edges up, but nothing that harmed the lines or mating surfaces. The top coolant lines for each turbo were probably the worst, but none of this was impossible. Just a pain in the ass. I'm debating replacing all 8 lines as preventative maintenance, but can't justify the $500+ it would cost.

Incredible work so far. I feel very fortunate you're doing this right now. I think I may do the same thing and just drop the subframe and steering rack completely. If I'm going through all the trouble to do this on jackstands, having that room seems like it would avoid a lot of headaches and busted knuckles (although I'm sure there are plenty as is).

I'm still deciding what exactly I want to do inlets wise myself. I too have the 1.75" stock frame inlets, but plan on running turbos that require a 2.0" inlet snout. I prefer the look and fit of stock location inlets, but am absolutely dreading the thought of installing that rear inlet if I don't do a clutch job at the same time. With the transmission bolted up and the turbos removed, would installing factory location inlets be as difficult as they were with the turbos still in place? I'm patiently awaiting how you like those MMP relocation inlets. That price is hard to resist.

I've priced out all the oil/coolant turbo lines as well -- not cheap. Which is a shame as I'd love to be able to just install brand new lines. Were you able to salvage all of ours without damage? Were any of them clogged at all?

[suspenceful]

Originally Posted by chadillac2000

Incredible work so far. I feel very fortunate you're doing this right now. I think I may do the same thing and just drop the subframe and steering rack completely. If I'm going through all the trouble to do this on jackstands, having that room seems like it would avoid a lot of headaches and busted knuckles (although I'm sure there are plenty as is).

I'm still deciding what exactly I want to do inlets wise myself. I too have the 1.75" stock frame inlets, but plan on running turbos that require a 2.0" inlet snout. I prefer the look and fit of stock location inlets, but am absolutely dreading the thought of installing that rear inlet if I don't do a clutch job at the same time. With the transmission bolted up and the turbos removed, would installing factory location inlets be as difficult as they were with the turbos still in place? I'm patiently awaiting how you like those MMP relocation inlets. That price is hard to resist.

I've priced out all the oil/coolant turbo lines as well -- not cheap. Which is a shame as I'd love to be able to just install brand new lines. Were you able to salvage all of ours without damage? Were any of them clogged at all?

I watched a YouTube video where two guys dropped the subframe slide it to the side with the steering rack still connected to the column. It worked, but I wanted the more room under there, especially since I replaced the oil pan gasket.

I got the relocation inlets both times because I didn't want to try to wrap the rear one around the back of the motor. It looks like a PITA and I still wouldn't want to try it now with the turbos removed. Although, either way it's a pain.

I got the aluminum relocation inlets this time so I could install the elbow on the turbo before I mount the turbo to the block. I test-fitted the rear turbo this weekend with the elbow on and it's gonna be really tight. The MMP3's have a bigger compressor housing than stock so there is even less room. I stole this picture from another guy, but mine looks about the same. Apparently you can still lube it up and shove a pipe in there to clamp it down.



Fortunately, I was able to save all my oil and coolant lines. I blew compressed air through them and they were free of all debris. Ran them through the parts washer at my work and they look good. Gonna go ahead and re-use them like most people, with new o-rings of course. Just be careful removing them and you'll be okay.

[suspenceful]

I got the oil pan cleaned up and re-installed with a new gasket. Having an industrial parts washer at my work helps. I also washed the subframe.







Then I began to swap all the lines over to the new turbos but ran into a bit of an issue. While it was my own fault, I feel like I should share for any other MMP3 owners. As Mauricio notes, you must use small washers on the bolts when reattaching the oil feed and coolant lines to the new turbos. Otherwise you will bottom out the bolt and pull the welds off that hold the mount on. Ask me how fun it is to find out the hard way.



Luckily I had a buddy who helped me weld the stainless mount back to the cast cartridge housing. It looks like it should hold just fine, but I haven't re-mounted the line yet. I might have to re-clock the turbos first. More progress tonight.



Also, if anyone wants to watch a 10 minute vlog-style video of the first day I worked on the car, check this out. My buddy put it together for fun. We're curious to hear some feedback on it or if we should scrap the idea. Not a whole lot of "useful" content, but I thought it was interesting.

[suspenceful]

I took the long 4th of July weekend off, spent it relaxing with friends and family.

I'm officially on the back half of this install. Yesterday I got back underneath the car and mounted both turbos, gaskets, lines and torqued everything to spec. The rear inlet elbow is on (PITA), but I know I'll still have a heck of a time shoving the aluminum pipe in from up top.

Hopefully I can get back at it tonight and get the outlets, water pump, inlets, and power steering pump installed.

On the back half of this turbo upgrade as of last night...

[Neiman Levenson]

lookin good! do you have any plans for more traction, like stickier tires or an LSD or anything? Id imagine finding traction with the stage 3s will be tough!

[suspenceful]

Originally Posted by Ne1man35

lookin good! do you have any plans for more traction, like stickier tires or an LSD or anything? Id imagine finding traction with the stage 3s will be tough!

Yeah, I'm going to try something better than the Michelin PSS that I have now. LSD is on my list, but is going to have to wait. Don't have the funds yet, this turbo install has been sucking me dry!

[Neiman Levenson]

since you have arc 8's, I think the coolest set up would be a set of 17" rear arc 8's with drag tires that you can throw on for events. Obviously it's the most expensive route, but think how cool that would be to have a set of 17x9's wrapped in ET street R tires in 275/40/17 that you could throw on for events, and throw your 18x9.5's back on for the street. it Would look sweet with the car as well and match!!

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip/et-street-r/

[suspenceful]

Larger inlets and outlets are on. Coolant pipe, water pump, thermostat reinstalled with new hoses.*Power steering pump and intercooler reinstalled. Downpipes attached and O2 sensors connected. Subframe secured with new motor mounts. Hoping to connect vacuum lines*and tidy up some loose ends tonight. Should be able to start it after adding oil, coolant and power steering fluid.

[Neiman Levenson]

not sure if i missed it, but whats your plan for the exhaust? I remember you mentioning the possibility of a custom 3.5" exhaust, if so Id love to know the specs of it and how it compares to my BMR 3.5". My theory is that a large 3.5" or so single pipe on an N54 produces a much more unique sound than any other aftermarket exhaust with dual pipes, its very deep with has zero rasp.

after getting my BMR exhaust back it has been lovely. The sound actually seems slightly improved, it feels like there is less drone too, (or maybe im getting used to it) and the tone is overall just amazing. as mentioned before, no rasp at all, Just a nice deep tone with some drone at a certain rpm range. (3k-3.5K) After having the exhaust for some time now and daily driving my car multiple times a day I can say that it is not obnoxious, even with catless downpipes. Its the perfect amount of volume to where its great with the windows down but just slightly noticeable with the windows up and ac/music on.

[suspenceful]

Originally Posted by Ne1man35

not sure if i missed it, but whats your plan for the exhaust? I remember you mentioning the possibility of a custom 3.5" exhaust, if so Id love to know the specs of it and how it compares to my BMR 3.5". My theory is that a large 3.5" or so single pipe on an N54 produces a much more unique sound than any other aftermarket exhaust with dual pipes, its very deep with has zero rasp.

after getting my BMR exhaust back it has been lovely. The sound actually seems slightly improved, it feels like there is less drone too, (or maybe im getting used to it) and the tone is overall just amazing. as mentioned before, no rasp at all, Just a nice deep tone with some drone at a certain rpm range. (3k-3.5K) After having the exhaust for some time now and daily driving my car multiple times a day I can say that it is not obnoxious, even with catless downpipes. Its the perfect amount of volume to where its great with the windows down but just slightly noticeable with the windows up and ac/music on.

I haven't made my mind up yet. The BMR unit looks nice but it's expensive and if I'm paying that price I'd want to know that it'd fit perfectly the first time. Since I have a Rieger rear diffuser, I would almost want it extended a little bit.

I think I'm going to drive it around open downpipes until I get someone local to fab up a custom 3.5" exhaust.

[suspenceful]

After getting some help from my girlfriend, I was able to start the car!







I was able to put on about 200 miles this weekend without a hitch. It was a great feeling being able to start the car and drive it without a single issue. I don't have the upgraded fuel system installed yet so I'm limited to low boost, but I'm okay with that because I want to break in the clutch before cranking it up to 30PSI.

These things are loud! Constant spooling noises.

I was also able to finally weigh my car: 3260lbs with a full tank of gas. No exhaust or backseats (how I typically drive it anyways).





Here's what I've replaced (off the top of my head):

• Ceramic coated MMP turbos with all new gaskets and o-rings
• Inlets and outlets, both wrapped with heat-resistant tape
• Oil pan gasket and bolts
• Oil filter housing gaskets
• Water pump and related rubber coolant hoses
• Both motor mounts
• Downpipe v-band clamps with new gaskets
• Deleted vacuum canisters, ran new vacuum line
• Power steering fluid, coolant, oil
• SPEC Stage 3+ clutch, throwout bearing, clutch fork
• Poly transmission mounts
• Aluminum bellhousing bolts
• Rear pinion seal
• Rear differential fluid
• Shifter bushings

Stay tuned - fuel system going in soon, then dyno time.

[chadillac2000]

Congrats! Must have felt like quite an achievement to get it right the very first time. Having another vehicle to depend on so you can dedicate the time necessary whilst not losing your patience or putting yourself in a pinch is key. Did you get around to installing any of the fueling upgrades yet or still just on the inline upgrade while you're breaking everything in?

Sounds wicked! You're a brave man running open downpipes (if you are) -- can't imagine how loud that thing must be!

I'm following suit by preemptively changing out the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, and probably a more things while I'm under there with everything torn apart.

[suspenceful]

Originally Posted by chadillac2000

Congrats! Must have felt like quite an achievement to get it right the very first time. Having another vehicle to depend on so you can dedicate the time necessary whilst not losing your patience or putting yourself in a pinch is key. Did you get around to installing any of the fueling upgrades yet or still just on the inline upgrade while you're breaking everything in?

Sounds wicked! You're a brave man running open downpipes (if you are) -- can't imagine how loud that thing must be!

I'm following suit by preemptively changing out the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, and probably a more things while I'm under there with everything torn apart.

Thanks! This is one of my largest wrenching accomplishments. Having my E90 for daily driving was absolutely necessary. I'm running open downpipes and it's definitely loud, but I like it. I plan on getting a custom 3.5" exhaust made.

I haven't installed any of the fueling upgrades yet. I'm waiting for you to do a write-up on the port injection/BMS controller

Kidding aside, I wanted to break in the clutch and make sure the turbos were functioning as they should be before diving into a different part of the car. With almost 300 miles on the car this week, I'll probably install all of the fueling upgrades this weekend. We'll see how my availability pans out.

I'm still dripping oil, but not nearly as much as before. The only thing I haven't replaced is the valve cover gasket. Looks like I'll be adding that to my list this summer.

[suspenceful]

Tonight's sunset was incredible.

[suspenceful]

I tackled the fueling upgrades this weekend (upgraded fuel feed line not pictured).



First step was to install my new Precision Raceworks Stage 3+ fuel pump bucket that had two Walbro 450s stuffed inside. Robert at PR was nice enough to assemble this for me. Usually you have to modify your stock bucket while mounting and wiring up the pumps yourself.









After fiddling around in the gas tank for a bit, I got the stock bucket out. New PR Stage 3 bucket on the left, old bucket on the right (with my old Stage 1 inline pump attached).





Installation was basically reverse of disassembly. Fairly straightforward, more gas on the hands. A plug-and-play harness is included in the kit to activate the 2nd pump under boost. I routed it from the battery to the two new terminals on the top of the bucket, then up under the hood to a Hobb's switch that I plumbed into my charge pipe. The 2nd pump is set to kick on anytime I'm over 15PSI.



Next up was installing the port injection and upgraded fuel line. I reconnected the battery right before this to test that the LPFP bucket installation worked as it should. For those of you who are aren't familiar with these cars, they run/prime the fuel pump every time a door opens after the car is "asleep". Well, I disconnected the OEM fuel feed line and then opened the door so I could route the upgraded line to the tank. As soon as I opened the door, the pump kicked on and fuel went spraying everywhere out of the open port. I'd assume a gallon of gas was on the garage floor before I quickly plugged the OEM line back in.

Battery disconnected, OEM fuel line out, new fuel line plugged in.





I ran the larger fuel feed line up to the front of the car and started removing parts so I could install the port injection.





Intake manifold removed, port injection plate installed. I added a dab of gasket sealer to the o-rings just to make sure they stayed on.





I connected the upgraded fuel lines to the HPFP and port injection plate. Then I connected all of the injectors to my BMS port injection controller and spent an hour wiring that up to my ECU. I managed to fit everything in the DME box for a stealthy installation. Everything went back together smoothly and you can't even tell the port injection is in there unless you look for it.



After everything was back together, I connected the battery and went to test that the port injection worked. As soon as I did, the fuel pumps primed and I heard fuel spraying under the car. Not just a small leak, it was dumping fuel - another gallon or two on the floor. I quickly disconnected the battery and investigated.

Well, my dumb ass forgot to plug this port on the plate! The kit comes supplied with a proper plug and o-ring... make sure to use it!



I wrapped things up and went out for my first full tank of pure E85. No more mixing!



The car pulls strong on 28PSI, stay tuned for more updates!

[Matticus91]

Looking good! Any new hp/tq dyno numbers?