Views on 1M Brakes ?

[bdaddylo]

Originally Posted by DRG420

Hi! have you used PFC08 on the street or better to say can you? or do you swap them before the track day? I have changed the brake lines and the fluid on stock and it's already an improvement, now i received PFC08 pads but not sure if I can just fit them for DD? anyone? thanks a lot.

Hogy vagy DRG420,

They do squeal a little when coming to a stop, but they don't rattle like the clipless pads. Are you in Budapest?

Szia,

Rich

[Piets94]

Originally Posted by Piets94

I've driven an M3 on track with ferodo ds2500 all round, and the consistency of the pedal lap after lap of hard stopping stunned me. In saying that, if changing out the stock pads of the 1m for the track, would you keep to the same compound of pad front and rear, or is there merit to having a different compound in the rear seeing as it's the fronts doing most of the braking?

Correction re: pads the m3 was running. It was ferodo ds1.11 fronts and ds2500 rear. I'm going to give that set up try on my 1er and report back.

[Roadsterdoc]

Has anyone noticed uneven pad wear with stock calipers on the track? It's often a problem with the floating caliper design.

[fastauto]

Originally Posted by DRG420

Hi! have you used PFC08 on the street or better to say can you? or do you swap them before the track day? I have changed the brake lines and the fluid on stock and it's already an improvement, now i received PFC08 pads but not sure if I can just fit them for DD? anyone? thanks a lot.

I used to swap but got lazy. I have been running them on the street for two months. I have my last two events coming up soon so I will remove after. you can DD the 08's but why? The stock pads are fine for the street. Plus, my 08's scream when they stop and vibrate like mad (older ones without clips).

[StealYourFace]

Unfortunately, I have no experience (anyone care to loan me their 1M for a bit) but I would think that since the brakes are effective on the M3 (pad and fluid change for track days, like anything else) they must be even more effective on the lighter 1M. Right?

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by StealYourFace

Unfortunately, I have no experience (anyone care to loan me their 1M for a bit) but I would think that since the brakes are effective on the M3 (pad and fluid change for track days, like anything else) they must be even more effective on the lighter 1M. Right?

yes.

Neil

[Em/1]

Originally Posted by StealYourFace

Unfortunately, I have no experience (anyone care to loan me their 1M for a bit) but I would think that since the brakes are effective on the M3 (pad and fluid change for track days, like anything else) they must be even more effective on the lighter 1M. Right?

The M3 "Taxis" at the Nurburgring Nordschliefe changed only the pads from stock and run all day. They did not baby those cars!

[M3 Adjuster]

Originally Posted by Roadsterdoc

Has anyone noticed uneven pad wear with stock calipers on the track? It's often a problem with the floating caliper design.

no. Not at all.

[smq42]

Originally Posted by fastauto

the rotors are fine. the pads are not. like the other said, get pads, ss lines, good fluid and you should be ready to rock and roll. if your feeling crazy, run some air ducts to them.

I managed to warp my front rotors after only 1.5 days at HPDE in Mt. Tremblant this summer. Came off a very hot lap and and the pins were clinking like mad as I drove around slowly to cool down. Not sure if I allowed the car to cool enough before stopping. . . The brakes never worked properly since then. When I took it to BMW, they attributed the unsteady braking to "rotor rust buildup." Eventually they replaced the rotors under warranty and everything has been fine since then.

I'm still new to HPDE (6 track days so far!); anything I could've done differently? Would track pads be better at heat dissipation? Do most people use different brake fluid for HPDE?

[Artemis]

Originally Posted by smq42

Came off a very hot lap and and the pins were clinking like mad as I drove around slowly to cool down.

I had heard the 'clinking' a few times too during and after spirited hill climbs/descents. Both front brakes. Sounded like the bells of the cathedral. Never the rear brakes. There were some other 1Ms and only two experienced the phenomenon. "Just normal, metal parts and heat, no issue", the other BMW guys told me.

Any thoughts ?

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by Artemis

I had heard the 'clinking' a few times too during and after spirited hill climbs/descents. Both front brakes. Sounded like the bells of the cathedral. Never the rear brakes. There were some other 1Ms and only two experienced the phenomenon. "Just normal, metal parts and heat, no issue", the other BMW guys told me.

Any thoughts ?

Perfectly normal. Although not a true floating rotor design, the stock rotor ring and rotor hat are designed to allow the rotor to expand/contract independent of the hat.

I hear it every time I come into the paddock off the track.

Neil

[RKR]

OEM Discs are terrible if you are using them for track, I'm on my 3rd set of front's (no stig).

My most recent set of discs are already blue in colour after 1 trackday. Will be replacing with an AP racing BBK for sure.

[TXmtrhed]

Originally Posted by smq42

I managed to warp my front rotors after only 1.5 days at HPDE in Mt. Tremblant this summer. Came off a very hot lap and and the pins were clinking like mad as I drove around slowly to cool down. Not sure if I allowed the car to cool enough before stopping. . . The brakes never worked properly since then. When I took it to BMW, they attributed the unsteady braking to "rotor rust buildup." Eventually they replaced the rotors under warranty and everything has been fine since then.

I'm still new to HPDE (6 track days so far!); anything I could've done differently? Would track pads be better at heat dissipation? Do most people use different brake fluid for HPDE?

Next time at the end of a session use your cool down lap to cool down the brakes, i.e. try not to use them at all. The only time I've heard my brakes clinking is when I overheated the brake fluid and pads (ATE and PFC-01 at the time) and came in right away without cooling down. The pads were really worn down and had started pulsing on track. Since I didn't cool down they were so hot that when I parked the wheel weights started falling away from the rim. I tape all my weights now.

Race pads don't dissipate heat better, they just work better at high temps. Same with racing brake fluid. You can still get uneven pad transfer with racing pads but in my experience the PFC pads are very easy to break in and give very little trouble. I've only had uneven pad deposits once as mentioned above.

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by RKR

OEM Discs are terrible if you are using them for track, I'm on my 3rd set of front's (no stig).

My most recent set of discs are already blue in colour after 1 trackday. Will be replacing with an AP racing BBK for sure.

What pads were you running?

Neil

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by Roadsterdoc

Has anyone noticed uneven pad wear with stock calipers on the track? It's often a problem with the floating caliper design.

Your guide pins aren't lubricated enough and sticking.

Remove the guide pins and lube them up with a high-temp grease or similar.

[TXmtrhed]

Originally Posted by RKR

OEM Discs are terrible if you are using them for track, I'm on my 3rd set of front's (no stig).

My most recent set of discs are already blue in colour after 1 trackday. Will be replacing with an AP racing BBK for sure.

Your rotors color will change to a blue-gray when running track pads (dependant on manufacturer). It's the pad transfer material. Goes away after a few days of street driving.

[RKR]

Originally Posted by MDORPHN

What pads were you running?

Neil

Carbotech XP10's mate

Originally Posted by TXmtrhed

Your rotors color will change to a blue-gray when running track pads (dependant on manufacturer). It's the pad transfer material. Goes away after a few days of street driving.

Cheers.

The blue still seems to be there after around 1 month however. I'll keep an eye on them. They are not warped yet so that's one benefit!

[M3 Adjuster]

Originally Posted by smq42

I managed to warp my front rotors after only 1.5 days at HPDE in Mt. Tremblant this summer. Came off a very hot lap and and the pins were clinking like mad as I drove around slowly to cool down. Not sure if I allowed the car to cool enough before stopping. . . The brakes never worked properly since then. When I took it to BMW, they attributed the unsteady braking to "rotor rust buildup." Eventually they replaced the rotors under warranty and everything has been fine since then.

I'm still new to HPDE (6 track days so far!); anything I could've done differently? Would track pads be better at heat dissipation? Do most people use different brake fluid for HPDE?

A cool down lap is always recommended. So yes.. if you came off the track on a fast lap and then parked it without a serious paddock drive.. then yes... i could see how you warped them.

Do note that the clinking is normal.

Originally Posted by Artemis

I had heard the 'clinking' a few times too during and after spirited hill climbs/descents. Both front brakes. Sounded like the bells of the cathedral. Never the rear brakes. There were some other 1Ms and only two experienced the phenomenon. "Just normal, metal parts and heat, no issue", the other BMW guys told me.


Any thoughts ?

Originally Posted by MDORPHN

Perfectly normal. Although not a true floating rotor design, the stock rotor ring and rotor hat are designed to allow the rotor to expand/contract independent of the hat.

I hear it every time I come into the paddock off the track.

Neil

What he said. perfectly normal.