BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      07-17-2009, 10:44 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john08135i View Post
You will need to unbolt the 6 bolts holding on the actual steel bumper.
The hitch will sandwich itself inbetween the car and the bumper with these 6 large bolts.
I opened mine yesterday and looked at the instructions - the instuctions make it seem like you don't need to unbolt the bumper beam, but it makes a lot more sense to put it between the bumper and the chassis.
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      07-18-2009, 06:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john08135i View Post
I ran the trailer lights wiring thru the grommet on the right just below the taillight.
I used a wiring kit MODULITE 119190. $75 at my local trailer store.
It is powered directly from the cars battery and tab into the tail lights to get signal. I was hoping this would keep my LIGHT out warning to not happen..but it does register light out all the time..oh well.
all lights work and im not pulling power thru the taillight harness so its fine.
I got a Modulite as well. What wires did you tap into (there appear to be a couple of bulbs that light up for brake)? And the tail lights just seem to be power to the LED/fiberoptic type lights in the tail light assembly.

Here is what I could find that I think will work:

Left side of the car in multibulb assembly wires:
Left Turn: Blue wire with green stripe
Brakes: Purple with Yellow stripe

Left side of the car on Tail light bulb harness:
Tail Light: Purple wire with Light Blue stripe

Right side of the car in multibulb assembly:
Right Turn: Blue wire with Brown stripe
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Last edited by scottn2retro; 07-20-2009 at 10:48 AM..
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      07-20-2009, 02:16 PM   #25
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I assume the "bulbs out" occurs when the trailer lights are connected. If not, I do not know how to "fix it". If my guess is correct and it's only when the lights are connected, you might try changing the jet ski trailer to led lights. I have them on my boat and like them better for a couple reasons. First, they do not corrode and loose the contact when the trailer sit unused. Second, they draw very little power. Third they do not get hot so nothing bad happens if you do not disconnect them before dunking them in the lake.

Even though your setup is not supposed to take it's power from the light circuit, my guess is that it is to some degree and dropping back a lot on the current may eliminate the bulb out signal. Even if it does not, the led lights have advantages.

I just used a cheap set from harbor freight. They were $40 or less. They work fine.

Jim
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      07-20-2009, 02:27 PM   #26
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Yea my BULB out light is on most all the time now.. but oh well..
even after the $75 modulite kit.. I was hoping the system would be fooled into thinking the system was OK... but BMW has fine tolerances in this case.
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      07-26-2009, 09:36 PM   #27
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Picked up my little track tag-along trailer today

larger res versions in my photo gallery:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/photos/sho...y.php/cat/3257



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      07-29-2009, 09:13 PM   #28
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Anyu update on kits that dont trigger the bulb out lights guys?
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      07-29-2009, 10:35 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris View Post
Anyu update on kits that dont trigger the bulb out lights guys?
Oddly enough, I wasn't aware of the bulb out light being on when I towed that little track trailer home.

Now that I've replaced the right tail light on that little trailer (was broken when I picked it up), I'll have to hook up to it again and see if I get the indication or not.
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      07-29-2009, 10:39 PM   #30
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scottnretro, so what kinda wiring kit are you using? Ive just ordered the CURT hitch setup , but I need some kinda wiring setup also..
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      07-29-2009, 10:56 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris View Post
scottnretro, so what kinda wiring kit are you using? Ive just ordered the CURT hitch setup , but I need some kinda wiring setup also..
I went with the Modulite 119146 and a 10 Amp fuse on the power wire (but my trailer has the minimum lights so hopefully around 8,5 Amps at most):
http://www.etrailer.com/p-119146.htm

If I blow the 10 Amp, I can go to a 15.

But I don't know for sure yet if I didn't have the bulb out light - I should be able to re-check this weekend.
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      07-29-2009, 11:00 PM   #32
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Interesting....Ok, so what about the 7/13 pin socket and all that jazz, what are you using to connect it up to the trailer?
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      07-30-2009, 12:27 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris View Post
Interesting....Ok, so what about the 7/13 pin socket and all that jazz, what are you using to connect it up to the trailer?
Most small trailers like the ones that are rated for that hitch are the standard 4 pin flat connector. The modulite unit comes with the connector that mates to the trailer connector below

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Last edited by scottn2retro; 07-30-2009 at 01:25 PM..
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      07-30-2009, 01:05 PM   #34
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I use a round four just because it looks better and is easier to connect. But then I have to have an adapter for when I rent a trailer or tow somebody elses.

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      07-30-2009, 03:12 PM   #35
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Ah ok, see that kit wont work for me as australian trailers have the euro flat 13pin connector or a round 7 pin connector..
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      07-30-2009, 04:31 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris View Post
Ah ok, see that kit wont work for me as australian trailers have the euro flat 13pin connector or a round 7 pin connector..
Check etrailer.com or an Ausie trailer supply company for connector adaptors

http://www.etrailer.com/c-a.htm

We have to do the same thing over here if your truck has a 7 pin and the trailer a 4 pin (or vice versa)
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      07-30-2009, 04:35 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottn2retro View Post
Check etrailer.com or an Ausie trailer supply company for connector adaptors

http://www.etrailer.com/c-a.htm

We have to do the same thing over here if your truck has a 7 pin and the trailer a 4 pin (or vice versa)
Ok, ill call a few local guys today. Just realised the CURT bar i ordered doesnt come with the 1-1/4" draw bar, of course you cant get that locally either as all are 2"

GRRRRRRRRRRR I swear, tow bars are a fuck around! BMW never makes anything easy
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      07-30-2009, 04:59 PM   #38
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Can you guys tell me what hitch bar/drawbar/tongue you used on the CURT 1-1/4" receiver?? Ie: which one fits the 135 the best

2" is standard in australia, so i need a smaller one (which i cant find)

thanks
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      07-30-2009, 05:34 PM   #39
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2008 135i  [6.80]
Quote:
Originally Posted by john08135i View Post
Here is it maiden voyage to the boat ramp
thats AWESOME
what is the tech
"tow" limit?
liek 1000?


i expected a FULL disaster but that is great work
-d
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      07-30-2009, 05:59 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris View Post
Can you guys tell me what hitch bar/drawbar/tongue you used on the CURT 1-1/4" receiver?? Ie: which one fits the 135 the best

2" is standard in australia, so i need a smaller one (which i cant find)

thanks
etrailer hitch adaptor:
http://www.etrailer.com/pc-HA~80303.htm
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      07-30-2009, 07:02 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottn2retro View Post
Awesome, thanks scott! Really need to sort out the electrics. So you're not sure if your car has the bulb out warning lights yet using the modulite??

May as well just order the 1-1/4" hitch though, cant believe you cant buy that in Australia!

pfjones have a wiring kit for our cars, its big bucks though.. Wonder should I go with that?

http://www.pfjones.co.uk/bmw-1-serie...l=EN&currency=

No Tow bar guys in Australia will touch my car
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      07-31-2009, 03:58 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris View Post
No Tow bar guys in Australia will touch my car
I thought Aussies were adventurous?

I'll re-hook up my trailer this weekend now that it has all 4 lights (6 bulbs in total) in place and recheck for the bulb out signal.

---------------------------------------
On your wiring needs, what trailer will you be hooking up to (how many lights does it have)?
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      07-31-2009, 07:36 PM   #43
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      08-02-2009, 09:43 PM   #44
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Finally getting a little of my trailer re-furb done.

- powder coated the tire rack uprights
- added safety chains
- pumped up tires to 60 psi
- added DOT reflective tape
- tidied up the wiring
- new smaller, current looking tail lights
- added a spare tire mount on the front (spare tire to come) - had to mount it horizontally because of the tire rack up front. At least until I get the 6" hitch extender.

I'll just add some eyebolts around the perimeter to tie stuff down to and she'll be awesome on the drive from HB to Atlanta and back.

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