What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[Gray_Panther]

Anyone ever experience their oil levels going from half level one day to 3/4 full the next?

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

Anyone ever experience their oil levels going from half level one day to 3/4 full the next?

Were you parked on a slope on any of those days/readings? Also, might be the sensor going bad?

[olds350]

Since the weather has been nice, the e88 is staying in the garage with the top down. Came out today only to see where a bird had crapped on top of the drivers head rest... damn... Fortunately, I had hit the seats with some Griots leather 3/1 just the other day. I hit the bird poo with some leather cleaner and then another round of the 3/1.

Happy to report no staining from the bird crap on that red leather, it cleaned right off even though it had dried. If you drive a drop top and haven't given the seats a nice once over with your favorite protectant, might want to go ahead and do it...

[crowtrobot]

Originally Posted by olds350

how much thicker is the M3 sway bar? I'm going to assume it's a direct swap? Do you also need to swap out the bushings and end links?

The E93 M3 sway bar is 29mm vs. 26.5mm with the stock M-sport bar. The taper is also different, adding stiffness beyond just the thickness of the bar.

I bought mine used from a forum member, so it came with new bushings and mounting brackets. I think you would need to buy both of these, as the M3 bushings did not look like they would fit the E82 brackets.

I bought new E82 endlinks to replace my old ones, they worked fine.

[HyeWarrior]

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

Anyone ever experience their oil levels going from half level one day to 3/4 full the next?

This happens pretty often to me. The sensor connecting to the oil housing gets dirty and is pretty loose. I have to clean it once in a while

[Divbetic]

Gave her a wash and decided to show off the new wheels

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by low135

It is

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Spent all day yesterday installing my new Öhlins coilovers. Total pain in the butt, but SO worth it. It's got more of a T R U C C stance to it. That said, I can go the speed limit over a speed table in my neighborhood and not hit the stops, and barely feel it in the process. The ride quality and control is uncanny... I'll have a full review and good pics in a few weeks.

Can't wait to see it in its final form!!

I've been quiet here lately but VERY busy. Both with the car and with life lol.

For those that have been following my Pure Stage 1 progress, I apologize for the delays. I changed directions a bit with the project and ended up working with Frank and Gabe Smith at Tuning Tech in Maryland. We installed their TTFS/XDI 35 HPFP and dyno tuned the car on 93 octane. Extremely happy to not have to worry about ethanol mixes. It was an absolute bear of a job for them since my DME does not allow OBDII tuning and they had to take the DME out for every revision.

In the end we hit 404whp and 440wtq with over 300hp right to redline on a Dynocom dyno (proper load dyno, reads ~12% less compared to others). Again this is just on 93 octane. We absolutely could have pushed more out of it with e30 or more, but I love the idea of not having to worry about finding ethanol anywhere, and 400+whp is plenty for now. AFR's never went over 13.5 at any point, where previously with the JB4, PS1, all same mods, and an e30 mix I was seeing AFR's spike to 15+. Scary AF. Very happy with how stout the car feels now. The XDI 35 holds 3000PSI on the rail to redline without breaking a sweat.

Once I compile all my "professional" pics and videos I'll update the PS1 thread I made.

For now.....

0-60 seems to be under 4sec now, hard for me to time, if anyone is good at that feel free to let me know how quick this was. I brought the RPM's up and then let the clutch out at 2500, so the clock doesn't start till then.
[This "pic" is a video, click to watch on Flickr]
GOPR0391_1556561592834_high by Matt Steele, on Flickr

Here's the Dyno chart, very happy with the curve and numbers!

20190425_221258 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

The guys went through this process too many times.....

20190424_124612 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

I'd share a video of my car on the Dyno but you literally can't hear it. The Dynocom dyno with the train brake is SO LOUD.

20190424_105745 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

TTFS/XDI 35 looking fancy. It's a very solid and impressive piece of hardware. I also never knew the HPFP was cam-driven until this project!

20190419_140435 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

[desertman123]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

0-60 seems to be under 4sec now, hard for me to time, if anyone is good at that feel free to let me know how quick this was. I brought the RPM's up and then let the clutch out at 2500, so the clock doesn't start till then.

Sloppy cuz I forgot how to pause the timers in Sony Vegas. Also the timer isn't perfect since the fish-eye lens on the camera made it a little debatable where the needle exactly hits 60mph. But a fast pass nonetheless.

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by desertman123

Sloppy cuz I forgot how to pause the timers in Sony Vegas. Also the timer isn't perfect since the fish-eye lens on the camera made it a little debatable where the needle exactly hits 60mph. But a fast pass nonetheless.

Nice work! Thanks for the edit! I'll have to work on getting sub 4-seconds now LOL

[low135]

Onto the bodywork and more waiting for parts. Admittedly I'm anxious to see it done but don't want to rush it. Much of the carbon stuff is going to take time to be made and arrive so I've got a bit of cushion in getting the flares molded and car wrapped. I've got some things coming that haven't been done on many cars so I'm excited. The car is coming together in my head. Figuring on an early July for it being in presentable shape

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

Can't wait to see it in its final form!!

I've been quiet here lately but VERY busy. Both with the car and with life lol.

For those that have been following my Pure Stage 1 progress, I apologize for the delays. I changed directions a bit with the project and ended up working with Frank and Gabe Smith at Tuning Tech in Maryland. We installed their TTFS/XDI 35 HPFP and dyno tuned the car on 93 octane. Extremely happy to not have to worry about ethanol mixes. It was an absolute bear of a job for them since my DME does not allow OBDII tuning and they had to take the DME out for every revision.

In the end we hit 404whp and 440wtq with over 300hp right to redline on a Dynocom dyno (proper load dyno, reads ~12% less compared to others). Again this is just on 93 octane. We absolutely could have pushed more out of it with e30 or more, but I love the idea of not having to worry about finding ethanol anywhere, and 400+whp is plenty for now. AFR's never went over 13.5 at any point, where previously with the JB4, PS1, all same mods, and an e30 mix I was seeing AFR's spike to 15+. Scary AF. Very happy with how stout the car feels now. The XDI 35 holds 3000PSI on the rail to redline without breaking a sweat.

Once I compile all my "professional" pics and videos I'll update the PS1 thread I made.

For now.....

0-60 seems to be under 4sec now, hard for me to time, if anyone is good at that feel free to let me know how quick this was. I brought the RPM's up and then let the clutch out at 2500, so the clock doesn't start till then.

Nice! Those numbers on 93 Octane are great. I think what you have now is a very competent car with very street-able manners. IMO, that is plenty of power and torque.

Honestly....I have been in that situation a lot of times. Last 3 Corvettes I owned were over 500hp at the wheels, and one at over 600. In my opinion, it gets to a point were it isn't as fun to just get out and cruise in it at those levels.

Yeah...the newness wears off after awhile and you start thinking more power...but my suggestion is to park it and drive something else for a few days. Once you get back in it, you realize just how powerful it really is.

To me...what you have is the perfect setup for a daily driver.

The one I have now is around 450RWHP/460RWTQ, and I won't go any farther. At that level, I don't have to worry about extra wear and tear on any other components, and it drives completely like stock.

Most importantly.....now my wife will ride with me!

She wouldn't ride in the other cars as they just simply scared her. Plus with all of them being manuals, the clutch needed to hold that kind of power was like trying to drive a truck.

I know it's all subjective, but just my thoughts. But I'm an older guy.....when I was younger you couldn't convince me to do anything I suggested above!

[mfindigital]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

Can't wait to see it in its final form!!

I've been quiet here lately but VERY busy. Both with the car and with life lol.

For those that have been following my Pure Stage 1 progress, I apologize for the delays. I changed directions a bit with the project and ended up working with Frank and Gabe Smith at Tuning Tech in Maryland. We installed their TTFS/XDI 35 HPFP and dyno tuned the car on 93 octane. Extremely happy to not have to worry about ethanol mixes. It was an absolute bear of a job for them since my DME does not allow OBDII tuning and they had to take the DME out for every revision.

In the end we hit 404whp and 440wtq with over 300hp right to redline on a Dynocom dyno (proper load dyno, reads ~12% less compared to others). Again this is just on 93 octane. We absolutely could have pushed more out of it with e30 or more, but I love the idea of not having to worry about finding ethanol anywhere, and 400+whp is plenty for now. AFR's never went over 13.5 at any point, where previously with the JB4, PS1, all same mods, and an e30 mix I was seeing AFR's spike to 15+. Scary AF. Very happy with how stout the car feels now. The XDI 35 holds 3000PSI on the rail to redline without breaking a sweat.

Once I compile all my "professional" pics and videos I'll update the PS1 thread I made.

For now.....

0-60 seems to be under 4sec now, hard for me to time, if anyone is good at that feel free to let me know how quick this was. I brought the RPM's up and then let the clutch out at 2500, so the clock doesn't start till then.
[This "pic" is a video, click to watch on Flickr]
GOPR0391_1556561592834_high by Matt Steele, on Flickr

Here's the Dyno chart, very happy with the curve and numbers!

20190425_221258 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

The guys went through this process too many times.....

20190424_124612 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

I'd share a video of my car on the Dyno but you literally can't hear it. The Dynocom dyno with the train brake is SO LOUD.

20190424_105745 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

TTFS/XDI 35 looking fancy. It's a very solid and impressive piece of hardware. I also never knew the HPFP was cam-driven until this project!

20190419_140435 by Matt Steele, on Flickr

Great numbers, seems like an awesome setup. Still a bit of a taper up top but not as drastic as the factory turbo. I think you've built yourself the perfect 135i engine setup. Anything over 400rwhp in a rwd car this size is just silly.

Is that fuel pump really $2200?

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by Rmtt

Nice! Those numbers on 93 Octane are great. I think what you have now is a very competent car with very street-able manners. IMO, that is plenty of power and torque.

Honestly....I have been in that situation a lot of times. Last 3 Corvettes I owned were over 500hp at the wheels, and one at over 600. In my opinion, it gets to a point were it isn't as fun to just get out and cruise in it at those levels.

Yeah...the newness wears off after awhile and you start thinking more power...but my suggestion is to park it and drive something else for a few days. Once you get back in it, you realize just how powerful it really is.

To me...what you have is the perfect setup for a daily driver.

The one I have now is around 450RWHP/460RWTQ, and I won't go any farther. At that level, I don't have to worry about extra wear and tear on any other components, and it drives completely like stock.

Most importantly.....now my wife will ride with me!

She wouldn't ride in the other cars as they just simply scared her. Plus with all of them being manuals, the clutch needed to hold that kind of power was like trying to drive a truck.

I know it's all subjective, but just my thoughts. But I'm an older guy.....when I was younger you couldn't convince me to do anything I suggested above!

I hear you! I can easily see myself wanting more, I'm still young and dumb lol. I'm not one to shy from wheelspin, I crave it, so "streetable" means something a bit different for me!

For now, though, it's perfect.

Originally Posted by mfindigital

Great numbers, seems like an awesome setup. Still a bit of a taper up top but not as drastic as the factory turbo. I think you've built yourself the perfect 135i engine setup. Anything over 400rwhp in a rwd car this size is just silly.

Is that fuel pump really $2200?

Thanks! I'm very happy with it. And yes, but they're running a discount right now, $1900 I think! It's well worth it if you want to push more power and are at all serious about reliability. What I've learned is that the LPFP doesn't do shit, and the factory HPFP is a joke. People pushing 400+ hp with a factory HPFP are asking for trouble.

[mfindigital]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

I hear you! I can easily see myself wanting more, I'm still young and dumb lol. I'm not one to shy from wheelspin, I crave it, so "streetable" means something a bit different for me!

For now, though, it's perfect.



Thanks! I'm very happy with it. And yes, but they're running a discount right now, $1900 I think! It's well worth it if you want to push more power and are at all serious about reliability. What I've learned is that the LPFP doesn't do shit, and the factory HPFP is a joke. People pushing 400+ hp with a factory HPFP are asking for trouble.

Totally get it and much respect for being the first one here to take the plunge. The BMW tax is rough, probably not many other commonly modified cars that require a pump that costs 2.2 times as much as the upgraded turbo lol. My project is going to have to wait until 2020.

**edit**
And ya, I agree. I'm going to start running my car back on MHD Stage 1 for daily duty. These POS fuel pumps scare me.

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

What I've learned is that the LPFP doesn't do shit...

Well, I guess I'm definitely not buying that LPFP from you now haha

[Suprgnat]

Originally Posted by dtla1

Well, I guess I'm definitely not buying that LPFP from you now haha

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by dtla1

Well, I guess I'm definitely not buying that LPFP from you now haha

It's true! However if you want to run any kind of ethanol mix you have to upgrade the LPFP since the stock one will choke on it.

[Gangplank]

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

Anyone ever experience their oil levels going from half level one day to 3/4 full the next?

Yes, I have. It was a bad oil level sensor. Replaced it and no issues since.

[Gangplank]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

The Ohlins rears are WAY too soft, especially if you have M3 or solid subframe bushings in the back. I originally planned to do an Ohlins rear spring with the 1M rate (110N/mm) but they were going to take a few weeks to ship from Sweden, so my distributor set me up with Swift springs in the rear. The front springs were free through him (one free pair of Swift springs with purchase). I also got the 1M valving (1 free re-valve per shock) installed (better suited to the higher spring rates). I had zero clearance issues, and I don't have very poke-y wheels, so I can add some meat to the car later on (yay!). The shorter front spring helps with this as well.

I installed them quite a while ago, yes. It's a great track set-up, but the calipers didn't make a big difference by themselves. Putting on proper track pads (I cannot recommend Porterfield R4's enough) was the best thing I ever did for braking performance and consistency on the track. Those, and some ATE Type 200 fluid will have you stopping quickly and consistently throughout a 20-minute session on stock brakes. Stainless flex lines aren't a bad idea either. Still, replacing pads is ridiculously easy with the 4-pots (top-loading is just genius), and it's the perfect solution for at-the-track pad swaps.

As I posted earlier I have a similar spring set up to yours. The rear definitely came out on the high side when we first installed. I dropped it down to just lower than stock. All around. It handles much better on the Ohlins with stiffer springs. A great DD car. I actually think it's a tad on the stiff side for the valving but not enough that I'd spend the money to revalue or change the springs. If was doing it over I'd go one step softer on the springs but if I ever want to start tracking my car I think it's the perfect middle ground for getting into that.

Here is where I'm at currently.

+PPK 320 hp/317 ft-lb.
+ M3 front control arms (upper & lower)
+RSFB Inserts
+ differential brace
+ Ohlins R&T
* F 7" 342 lb. (60 N/mm)
* R 10" 672 lb. (120 N/mm)
* Settings F 16 / R 18 from hard
* Ride height
* F: 327 mm/12.9" to center
* R: 333 mm/13.1" to center

The pic in my lawn was right after having it installed. The parking lot photo is today parked at work. It settled nicely.

[chris_flies]

Today I aligned the car and adjusted the rear ride height to reduce the excessive rake it had. Front: -2.3 degrees camber (max), .2 degrees toe out. Rear: -1.8 degrees camber, .2 degrees toe in (I was having a little too much inner tire wear with 0 toe). It feels wonderful, and it's nice to have a straight steering wheel I still need to wash it...badly

Originally Posted by Gangplank

As I posted earlier I have a similar spring set up to yours. The rear definitely came out on the high side when we first installed. I dropped it down to just lower than stock. All around. It handles much better on the Ohlins with stiffer springs. A great DD car. I actually think it's a tad on the stiff side for the valving but not enough that I'd spend the money to revalue or change the springs. If was doing it over I'd go one step softer on the springs but if I ever want to start tracking my car I think it's the perfect middle ground for getting into that.

Here is where I'm at currently.

+PPK 320 hp/317 ft-lb.
+ M3 front control arms (upper & lower)
+RSFB Inserts
+ differential brace
+ Ohlins R&T
* F 7" 342 lb. (60 N/mm)
* R 10" 672 lb. (120 N/mm)
* Settings F 16 / R 18 from hard
* Ride height
* F: 327 mm/12.9" to center
* R: 333 mm/13.1" to center

The pic in my lawn was right after having it installed. The parking lot photo is today parked at work. It settled nicely.

Your car looks very nice! I got 1M-spec valving included. It's about as stiff as the Koni's, but they behave completely differently. Potholes and sharp imperfections are simply glided-over, but they handle so much more crisply and precisely. I need to drive on them more now that the car is aligned and driving properly. I currently have them at 20 clicks from full stiff, and it seems to ride pretty nicely. 10 clicks (recommended) was far too stiff for my tastes.

I'll be putting a fairly extensive street review and some pictures in my build thread when I'm ready and have the chance to.

[xQx]

I've got to stop trying to economize when buying tools.

I was really happy when I found a 108 piece Chrome Vanadium tool kit for $49.95 that had the torx bits I needed to do the RSFB inserts .

... I'm not so happy now given what my E18 torx socket looks like after tightening a grand total of four bolts to 100nm.

[Gangplank]

Originally Posted by chris_flies

Today I aligned the car and adjusted the rear ride height to reduce the excessive rake it had. Front: -2.3 degrees camber (max), .2 degrees toe out. Rear: -1.8 degrees camber, .2 degrees toe in (I was having a little too much inner tire wear with 0 toe). It feels wonderful, and it's nice to have a straight steering wheel I still need to wash it...badly

Your car looks very nice! I got 1M-spec valving included. It's about as stiff as the Koni's, but they behave completely differently. Potholes and sharp imperfections are simply glided-over, but they handle so much more crisply and precisely. I need to drive on them more now that the car is aligned and driving properly. I currently have them at 20 clicks from full stiff, and it seems to ride pretty nicely. 10 clicks (recommended) was far too stiff for my tastes.

I'll be putting a fairly extensive street review and some pictures in my build thread when I'm ready and have the chance to.

I agree 10 clicks is way too stiff for my DD duties. I'm at 16/18 but I'm planning to try going to 16 (- a couple clicks) to the rear shocks. It's not too soft but that's the beauty of adjustable coilovers. You can dial it in.

I totally agree about the smooth & controlled feeling. Definitely the way it should feel and drive.