BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      02-16-2017, 09:35 AM   #67
marconi118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traf View Post
How did you guys got your steering wheel straight ? The tab of the M3 rack is clocked compared to the OEM rack.
Is the adjustment range of the tie rods enough to get it straight ?
I got the same problem as you. it seems only a few of us have it.

I cut the tab, centered the rack and steering wheel and connected both

you should never compensate with tie rods, always center the rack whit the steering
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      02-16-2017, 10:12 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marconi118 View Post
I got the same problem as you. it seems only a few of us have it.

I cut the tab, centered the rack and steering wheel and connected both

you should never compensate with tie rods, always center the rack whit the steering
You're not afraid of the rack disconnecting itself ? People are saying to not cut the tab.
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      02-17-2017, 09:39 AM   #69
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indeed You are right there is a risc... i realize now

then try to turn the tab

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      02-17-2017, 10:09 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marconi118 View Post
indeed You are right there is a risc... i realize now

then try to turn the tab

Attachment 1574266
Hum, your rack looks weird. My tab is nowhere near that big.
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      02-17-2017, 09:16 PM   #71
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The tab is largely for ease of fitment, no?
The intermediate shaft is splined and when properly tightened the pinch bolt will hold everything in place. The pinch bolt crosses through the ground out ring so there's little chance of it popping off either.
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      02-20-2017, 01:26 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
The tab is largely for ease of fitment, no?
The intermediate shaft is splined and when properly tightened the pinch bolt will hold everything in place. The pinch bolt crosses through the ground out ring so there's little chance of it popping off either.
Hum, then i will cut the tab. Clocked steering wheel is pissing me off...
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      02-20-2017, 10:20 PM   #73
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If the steering wheel is held in place straight ahead there should be no reason to cut the tab for the wheel to be correctly aligned. Others have mentioned this also.

I do however note this rack looks different to the one I installed. It appears not to have the servotronic valve installed.
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      02-21-2017, 12:39 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muppet View Post
If the steering wheel is held in place straight ahead there should be no reason to cut the tab for the wheel to be correctly aligned. Others have mentioned this also.

I do however note this rack looks different to the one I installed. It appears not to have the servotronic valve installed.
I installed the rack with the shaft sticking out equally on both sides, then i aligned the steering wheel to the tab but that translated in the wheel being clocked about 30° anti clockwise.
If i should not adjust with the tie rods, which i can understand, then the only option is to cut the tab and adjust the steering wheel.
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      02-21-2017, 09:16 AM   #75
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I posted a generic picture to show that maybe the tab could be rotated.
it is not an M3 rack

cut away that tab as I did

strange that no other on the forum had this 30° misalignment, maybe they are all doing it the wrong way?

if you look at the black plastic tab collar there is an arrow, it should align to a mark on the aluminum body when the rack is centered. then you have this 30° misalignment of the tab that I had to cut off
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      02-21-2017, 11:09 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marconi118 View Post
I posted a generic picture to show that maybe the tab could be rotated.
it is not an M3 rack

cut away that tab as I did

strange that no other on the forum had this 30° misalignment, maybe they are all doing it the wrong way?

if you look at the black plastic tab collar there is an arrow, it should align to a mark on the aluminum body when the rack is centered. then you have this 30° misalignment of the tab that I had to cut off
Yeah, i don't know how you could end up with a straight steering wheel right off the bat. Maybe people are adjusting with the tie rods.
I also had to recalibrate my steering angle sensor, luckily for me, ISTA-D does it very nicely.

Last edited by Traf; 02-21-2017 at 11:20 AM..
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      02-22-2017, 09:53 AM   #77
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how do you know you have to re calibrate the angle sensor?

I didn't

simply did a few lock to lock wheel turns and the yellow steering error symbol on the dash disappears.

I really don't understand how all other on this forum lined up the rack without cutting the tab?

I had a long discussion on this forum a year go, and all treated me as a fool to cut the tab.

maybe they are using the M3 steering column bottom part?
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      02-22-2017, 12:21 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marconi118 View Post
how do you know you have to re calibrate the angle sensor?

I didn't

simply did a few lock to lock wheel turns and the yellow steering error symbol on the dash disappears.

I really don't understand how all other on this forum lined up the rack without cutting the tab?

I had a long discussion on this forum a year go, and all treated me as a fool to cut the tab.

maybe they are using the M3 steering column bottom part?
DSC and all the other stuff were off with lights all over the dash.
You can read your steering angle sensor, put your steering wheel straight and if the value is 0° +- 2° then its good, otherwise you should recalibrate.

Last edited by Traf; 02-22-2017 at 01:02 PM..
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      02-26-2017, 10:46 PM   #79
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Hey Muppet, great work. Any chance this works on E9X? I bought an M3 rack and intend to give this a shot.
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      02-27-2017, 03:52 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleturboVert View Post
Hey Muppet, great work. Any chance this works on E9X? I bought an M3 rack and intend to give this a shot.
E8x and E9x are the same.
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      02-27-2017, 08:55 PM   #81
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If you want to install servotronic you need to look at the software which is not as compatible as using the 1M software.
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      03-01-2017, 01:56 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muppet View Post
If you want to install servotronic you need to look at the software which is not as compatible as using the 1M software.
So basically the issue still stands that simply adding servotronic to your $VO still wont actuate the valves correctly? Adding the aformentioned attribute does not give you the "M" software? It only gives you the base model servotronic settings? Still better than nothing so long as the electronic assist doesnt interfere beyond low speed assist.
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      03-14-2017, 10:54 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muppet View Post
Warning long winded post.

So I think I have now got this sorted. I had a bit of a problem with the placebo effect as I would try something, restart the motor and move the wheel and think it is lighter. It is only when you turn to full lock do you feel the additional load that is required without Servotronic. In addition past 30 kph the additional weight is really not a factor.

To answer the post above they are basically the same rack. Same ratio, same fitment apart from the hydraulic pipes may be slightly differently oriented.

The issue has been whether you can get Servotronic operating on a 135i.

I have managed to get the speed adjustable assistance working in a more meaningful manner than the hit and miss that was previously the case. The weight is the same as without Servotronic in the quarter turn either side of straight ahead but the servo assistance kicks in past there and takes off the additional load as you add the additional three quarters turn. The reason for the additional weight is the amount of caster built into a 135i (approx 7 degrees stock) which means you are actually lifting the car as you are turning the wheel. It is accentuated with mine as I have 8.3 degrees.

The 135i pump is smaller than that on the M3 and 1M and I assume this means that the hydraulic pressure is less and so more human effort is required.

The new steering weight is not as light as a standard 135i and probably heavier than the sports mode on a M3 or 1M, but not un wieldy as with no Servotronic. This only really relates to parking speeds, other than that it is a little lighter up to 30 kph but faster than that feels the same as before the Servotronic function was active.

The next thing is to thank the author of NCS Dummy and the member who
posted a 1M FSW_PSW dump file on this forum. The dump file enabled me look at the difference between the instructions of a 135i and 1M and trace down the ecu other than JBBF which needed to be re coded. NCS Dummy helped find what was required in the Kombi ecu.

What came up was that the following instructions were active on a 1M and inactive on a 135i. I coded them in as active and this settled down the rather on/off Servotronic assistance I previously had. (I was aware that the Servotronic function was working after I had coded in the option as when I disconnected the wiring I would get a fault come up and there was a current running to the valve but it fluctuated wildly).

ST_MDRV_ALIVE_MONITOR
aktiv
ST_MDRV_CSUM_MONITOR
aktiv
ST_MDRV_ID_MONITOR
aktiv

So there you have it, add the option $216, recode the whole car, alter JBBF to Servotronic aktiv and make the changes to the kombi ecu as above.

It is not as assisted as a 1M but it is a lot better than none at all.

There are a host of ST_ and other instructions in the JBBF ecu which are steering related and they are the same between a 135i and a 1M. These may adjust the level of assistance but I am not sure I want to tamper to much with these. They may only relate to activ steering or electric steering. I am happy with the way it is.

I am not going to put in a big warning about doing this at your risk as I have found the ecus' to be remarkably resilient to cock ups. These are only minor changes and I also found that NCS Expert will not allow you to make alterations to instructions that are not reasonable.
Epilogue:

I have had the excessive castor dialled out of the front end and now at standard setting (approx 6%). That has cleared the lump as you applied more lock. There is no less feel or less self centring which is pretty miserable in any case.

I was still getting intermittent operation of the servotronic function so went hunting again. Found a discussion re servotronic on a 7 series and the poster suggested resetting the steering sensor with Ediabas.

I reset the steering sensor and received a multitude of error messages for DCS, ABS and servotronic. Cleared all the errors with INPA and had a look at the steering angle in INPA to check whether all was well.

I then found a facility in Ediabas which reads the servotronic operation. As a result tracked down the coding in the JBBF file that adjusts the current to the valve. Re set the coding of Comfort-Strom with NCS expert to Wert 02 and went back to Ediabas to do some tests at different speeds.

At 1 kph the current to the valve is 800ma and at 40 kph the current 462ma.

The steering assistance has now eventually settled in and is not stop start. I think re setting of the steering angle sensor was the fix.

As an experiment I attached a 6v battery to the valve and the assistance was too much, felt like a taxi. With a 3v battery it is about the same assistance as what I am getting at parking speed.

Hope this helps. As usual the risk is upon yourself in respect of mucking around inside the ecu's.
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      03-17-2017, 04:15 AM   #84
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So you never get max assist ?
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      03-17-2017, 04:30 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traf View Post
So you never get max assist ?
Unless you put in a 1M/M3 pump.
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      03-17-2017, 12:09 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muppet View Post
.
Do you re-use the stock steering lower joint assembly? Or, can you use the M3 joint (it looks more robust).

Looks like the 1M uses the "active steering" lower joint assembly: 32306769166. Only E82's with AFS use that joint. A regular 135i uses 32306769157. M3 has its own unique assembly and part number...

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=32_1516
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      03-17-2017, 08:30 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bNks334 View Post
Do you re-use the stock steering lower joint assembly? Or, can you use the M3 joint (it looks more robust).

Looks like the 1M uses the "active steering" lower joint assembly: 32306769166. Only E82's with AFS use that joint. A regular 135i uses 32306769157. M3 has its own unique assembly and part number...

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=32_1516
I used the 135i steering arms and ball joints. There looked to be little difference between each other and they were the correct length. There is a length issue with using the M3 or 1M items.
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      04-11-2017, 11:16 PM   #88
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This thread is awesome to read because it seems you found solution to every obstacle.


The real happy ending would be though to come up with DIY before you guys forget all that great work you've done.


I feel this mod would make the 135i perfect for me.

Last edited by dzid_; 12-20-2018 at 11:59 PM..
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