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07-09-2017, 09:37 PM | #1 |
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Car Wont Start
Hey looking for some assistance in how to go about fixing the following. I have narrowed it down to where the issue lies, with some fiddling.
My car decided it didn't want to turn over yesterday after an appointment, however, all the gauges and lights in the vehicle would work. Even with this, I thought the battery was low so decided to give it a jump with another vehicle, however, nothing worked. Some googling revealed it could be a loose connection with the battery in the trunk or the ground cable - so I decided to just push all the connectors in the trunk and the hood and without fail car turned on without issue. I drove it home and parked it in the driveway, turned the car off and tried to turn it back on again and nothing same issue as before. I went again and fiddled with only the positive terminal under the hood and "pushed" it in, and again it turned on. It has done this a couple times and appears that is where the issue lies. Some sort of loose connection with the positive terminal under the hood. In the picture below it is the top-right side red capped wire that I am pushing, not the actual positive jumper terminal. Anyone know or have a quick idea on how I can go about removing the cap and checking all the connections to this to ensure everything is tightly bolted down? It didn't look like the cap was bolted down, and I couldn't see how it was secured in place. Picture below of part in question. PS. I did do the battery cable recall - not sure if this is the same. |
07-10-2017, 03:30 AM | #2 |
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That is your starter/alternator lead. Known issue, happened to me. The dry solder basically rots away with heat, corrosion and vibration then either snaps or falls out. I bet if you gave it a little tug it will come out.
Two options - buy a new cable from BMW but you will have to take your intake manifold off to fit it. Or chop the cable about 20cm from where it bolts to the firewall, get some suitable automotive battery cable, heatshrink and an eyelet, crimp the new cable onto the old one and crimp the eyelet on. If you cant find a suitable joiner, just use some 10mm copper pipe. |
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Fakemike368.50 |
07-11-2017, 07:13 PM | #3 |
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Thanks a lot - took a look at it today and as you said it came right off. But looking at the wire it doesn't appear to be in that bad of a condition and the cable looks to be salvageable. So I'm first going to attempt to get a new eyelet and attach to the end of that cable and see how long that lasts. There's more than enough cable to reach. Attaching some pictures as well for reference |
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Fakemike368.50 |
07-11-2017, 11:42 PM | #4 |
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Marine supply stores will have high quality crimp terminals. No solder needed. Ideally you would use a crimping tool...some shops have one you can borrow. But if you have a hammer a sharp punch and something to place it on you can crimp one on. Ancor is a good brand.
https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Marine-.../dp/B01GH3N0XM
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07-12-2017, 04:08 PM | #5 |
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Got a new eyelet and crimped/smashed it on. Used a heat shrink as well to seal the connection.
Car started up no problem - I did however drop an eyelet in the engine bay, but that wouldn't be the first time somethings fell in there. Couldn't take any pictures as it is raining outside. Hopefully, this will last. Thanks to the both of you |
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07-16-2017, 10:35 PM | #6 |
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Because of the engine rocking side to side, ideally you would want to chop off the rotten section and crimp a new section on which is slightly longer to allow for the engine's movement.
Apparently that is an aluminium wire instead of copper, to save weight. I used copper auto battery cable to repair it. Definitely use a crimping tool with correct gauge rating. |
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07-23-2017, 09:19 AM | #7 |
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This post came at a perfect time! i was just about to take the car apart to get to the starter. Thanks all you saved me!
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07-12-2019, 02:10 AM | #8 |
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I should have looked here sooner. My 3rd flatbed to the dealer in 5 weeks. They finally figured it out after charging me for a new starter the first time and a battery the 2nd time.
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