Traction control kicking in w/DSC off (LSD people chime in too)

[Matticus91]

After some snow-storm hooning and a some recent tuning sessions I've come to the conclusion that my TC system is still kicking in pretty heavily even when DSC is fully off (yes, I long press the TC button and wait for "DSC Off" to appear).

As a couple of examples - when in the snow messing around, I found that the throttle would cut sometimes extremely heavily when sliding around. To what feels like 10% of actual input (100% pedal input aka send it lol).

When running some logs the other day I ran it through 3rd gear and felt some pretty substantial dips in 3rd gear, again with DSC totally off.

This isn't a little "hey, minor slippage there pal, let's keep it neat" kind of feeling, it's more like, "JFC WE NEED TO CUT POWER OR YOU'RE GOING TO DIE". Which I don't want when I turn DSC off all the way...

Any thoughts? Is this normal?

Anyone with an aftermarket LSD that coded out the e-diff, have you seen reductions in this behavior?

[1and1]

IIRC, putting it in TIM YOYO mode won't disable the E-LSD. Beyond that I seem to recall others having logged data indicating more intrusive behavior than just the E-LSD would offer.

Check that driving nannies post- I suspect it's a decent place to find points of reference on both the problem(s) and resolution. It's up to you if you want to go to the point of coding off the nannies when your not tracking the car...

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by 1and1

IIRC, putting it in TIM YOYO mode won't disable the E-LSD. Beyond that I seem to recall others having logged data indicating more intrusive behavior than just the E-LSD would offer.

Check that driving nannies post- I suspect it's a decent place to find points of reference on both the problem(s) and resolution. It's up to you if you want to go to the point of coding off the nannies when your not tracking the car...

Yup I know the e-diff is always active and I've seen that thread and considered going down that road but I like maintaining the "support" for the few times I'm in terrible weather or the wife drives the car. I just can't believe how much the power is cut, even when on snow/ice! I'd think it would be super easy for the car to maintain direction of both tires on an equally slippery surface. At least compared to asphalt.

[iminhell1]

E-Diff does not cut throttle, ever. If you are getting throttle cut it's one of 2 things, DSC interacting or a problem in the tune ... throttle cut is a TQ Reduction action. Could come from a request to protect the trans (overheat, over-rev) or an overboost condition.

If you're riding the brakes while this happens, that's the problem. There is something about brake plausibility that will cut throttle after a few seconds if both are pressed. I just looked through the tune and I didn't see it, so it must have been on the coding side I removed mine.


I have a diff and coded out most of the stuff. My car does what I tell it to do. Haven't seen anything that I didn't want or expect.
If you post a log maybe I can spot something?

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

E-Diff does not cut throttle, ever. If you are getting throttle cut it's one of 2 things, DSC interacting or a problem in the tune ... throttle cut is a TQ Reduction action. Could come from a request to protect the trans (overheat, over-rev) or an overboost condition.

If you're riding the brakes while this happens, that's the problem. There is something about brake plausibility that will cut throttle after a few seconds if both are pressed. I just looked through the tune and I didn't see it, so it must have been on the coding side I removed mine.


I have a diff and coded out most of the stuff. My car does what I tell it to do. Haven't seen anything that I didn't want or expect.
If you post a log maybe I can spot something?

That's interesting, I wish I had a log from when I was hooning around. Never riding the brakes, I'm used to throttle cuts as a result of that. Doubt it's overheat, but I guess that's possible. Definitely not over-rev, I'm very careful of that. Overboost is unlikely since the car was under low load and not making much boost when hooning. I also have a boost safety cut set so it would be pretty distinct.

The only log I have on hand isn't going to be very useful so I'll see if I can get another. I've attached one for you anyway if you'd like to take a look.

[asiflicious]

What iminhell1 said. The ELSD shouldnt ever cut power

[iminhell1]

I have to amend what I said earlier.

I have had throttle cut. I was on ice and wound it up through 3rd gear. Front wheels didn't move one bit, car was actually stuck. DSC, ABS (orange brake light) and I think half engine all popped at once.
But that's the only way I've got anything to act up.

[chris_flies]

There is a thing that will reduce engine power (FLR) to prevent brake overheating. It could be, but is unlikely to be, the thing you're experiencing.

desertman123 re-pointed-out this page to me when I was doing some coding: http://www.onelapx1.com/blog/how-to-...w-actually-fun

Do your logs show power cuts? If not, then it could simply be the eDiff working (not true torque vectoring) by braking the wheels...

[elitesales305]

matticus.. this dickery in the snow your doing ...could affect resale value!!!

[Matticus91]

Originally Posted by elitesales305

matticus.. this dickery in the snow your doing ...could affect resale value!!!

Lol well I'm keeping it for the foreseeable future now so eff it!

[ShocknAwe]

Not sure. I've noticed it too on occasion but I think mine are post shift timing flatlining.

Temp redline when wheels popped free? I've had that happen to me on bad surfaces and power will cut to save the block.

[Broken135i]

Holy F i just tried to huck doughnuts in 2nd gear, popped the clutch full lock and the inside tire lit up for half a second, then throttle cut to like 10% as said above. I have brake fade compensation coded out and the elsd coded off. I basically followed that guys X1 post. Also had DTC long pressed “Fully off”. What gives🤷🏻*♂️

[iminhell1]

Originally Posted by Broken135i

Holy F i just tried to huck doughnuts in 2nd gear, popped the clutch full lock and the inside tire lit up for half a second, then throttle cut to like 10% as said above. I have brake fade compensation coded out and the elsd coded off. I basically followed that guys X1 post. Also had DTC long pressed “Fully off”. What gives🤷🏻*♂️

I think it has to do with a wheel speed differential somewhere along the lines.
If you're on ice, try chocking the front tires and slowly increase speed of the rears until it cuts throttle. My guess is that it will. And I see no issue with it as it's a protection that no one should really reach unless the fronts are not moving. Seriously is no need to do 100mph standing burnouts, when 85mph will do just fine.

And I really see zero reason to code the e-diff out, ever. If you don't have a mechanical one, you just made traction worse. If you have a mechanical, you just made it even better.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

I think it has to do with a wheel speed differential somewhere along the lines.
If you're on ice, try chocking the front tires and slowly increase speed of the rears until it cuts throttle. My guess is that it will. And I see no issue with it as it's a protection that no one should really reach unless the fronts are not moving. Seriously is no need to do 100mph standing burnouts, when 85mph will do just fine.

And I really see zero reason to code the e-diff out, ever. If you don't have a mechanical one, you just made traction worse. If you have a mechanical, you just made it even better.

I think that wheel speed differential thing you just said is on to something...the computer may be trying to protect the open diff from overheating/exploding. As one wheel slips, it spins at twice the speed it would if both wheels are gripping because of how the spider gears work.

I grenaded the open (metal) diff on my R/C truck doing donuts with one wheel spinning. Likely the combination of extremely high speed and extremely high temperature caused it's unscheduled disassembly. It works the same as the diffs on our cars (I've disassembled both), so it's a relatively scale representation.

EDIT: Broken135i Please tell me you disabled the e-diff because you have a proper LSD...otherwise it's just pointless

[iminhell1]

chris_flies
Keep in mind this is not our diff or fluid but,

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by iminhell1

chris_flies
Keep in mind this is not our diff or fluid but,

Gale Banks is awesome! Very intelligent guy that can explain things well to mere mortals such as myself. I'll need to watch this vid later...