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      08-11-2020, 01:49 PM   #1
djafactor
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Mosport in the 1M vs tuned M2 vs tuned 135i

Been tracking the 1M a fair bit this summer since i finally put a proper seat (OMP WRC-R Racing Seat). Makes such a difference on track as I finally now feel more connected to the car. Had 3 days at Mosport with the BMW club and with Covid we instructors weren't assigned any students so it was just non-stop track time. Ended up running around 1000kms on track with my buddies & I swapping into each others cars. Some impressions...

1M has H&R springs, Performance Friction Race Pads, Hankook RS4s (245/40/18 square) & a racing seat/harnesses. Was sooooo good! The way it would hook up coming out of turn 5C before the back straight was so sick. You get on the power and it would just hunker down and rocket. A short video below with me driving the 135i and you can see my friend in the 1M just launches out like a bullet. LSD makes such a difference.

Balance is amazing with a nice sharp turn in and the car overall feels light and nimble. People always talk about them being twitchy at the limit but I find it perfect for my driving style as it's similar to my e30 M3. I like to use this characteristic for extra rotation when needed. It communicates everything perfectly and the steering has a lovely lightness to it where you can feel the connection between the tarmac and your hands. By sunday I was braking from almost 240kph going into turn 8 and barreling in at 160kph. Running consistent 1:36s with no traffic. Only complaint I have is there is brake bias issue as i'm running Hawk HP Plus Sport pads in the rear and it feels like it's over braking in the rear which creates a bit of a wiggle. Car is just sick in this environment.

135i with coilovers, tune (around 330hp), Pagid RS29 Race pads & Hankook RS4s. Suspension was just awesome, really nice damping and I could carry a ton of confidence as it would hook up quickly. Contrast to the 1M it feels heavier, from the steering, to the body control. It just didn't feel as sharp as as the 1M. The braking had better feel though as it was easier to modulate, i believe it's cause of the 6 piston calipers (not sure why the 1M didn't get these) plus the pagid pads. It was more balanced and I felt more confidence in the big braking zone. I didn't have the lap timer on when i was driving but my buddy was able to do a best 1:39.1

M2 with DCT, H&R springs, Pagid RS29 Race Pads, downpipe, tune (450hp) & Michelin Pilot Sport 4S. Holy crap what a monster with the power. As much as the 1M distanced the 135i out of turn 5 the M2 did to the 1M. Just bananas hitting around 245kph on the back straight. So surprising was how different it felt from the 1M overall. You could feel the weight and there was much less body control. The steering felt heavier and wasn't communicating from tarmac to fingers. I would put the 135i in between the 1M and M2 for weight and balance feel and say the 1M feels like an e30 and a M2 is more e46. Regardless of the extra power & DCT i could keep up in the 1M (same would happen when we swapped keys). He would drag down the straight and i would reel him in through the corners. If he had the RS4 tires he would be gone. We were running 1:36s nose to tail.

I also took my e30 Champ Car Race Car that has a stock M52, koni shocks & meaty 245/45/15 tires. This thing was a rocket and the best timed lap we got out of it was a 1:38.9. By Sunday i'm pretty sure we were down into the sub 1:38s when we realized how much grip this thing was producing. All in all great weekend.

Some vids:

Me in the 135i chasing the 1M blasting out of turn 5:



Me in the 1M chasing the M2 through traffic:

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Last edited by djafactor; 08-11-2020 at 01:57 PM..
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      08-11-2020, 03:25 PM   #2
frenzy757
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Cool vids thanks for sharing!
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      08-12-2020, 09:39 AM   #3
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That's awesome.

The 1M has so much potential with suspension adjustments. I have spent years tweaking mine slowly, using track days and autocross to find the best setup.

Mods are in sig. Ride height is about 15mm lowered in the front from stock, and about 5mm lowered in the rear. I run -2.5 degrees camber and zero toe in the front, -1.8 camber and 1/16" toe in at the rear. Track setup has PFC-08 pads all around and a square wheel/tire set, currently Toyo T1R 275/35/18, Ohlins set to 3 clicks out from full stiff in front, 4-5 clicks out in rear depending on track. The square setup produces massive front braking grip, and the rear feels too light in 120mph+ braking zones if the rear shocks aren't softened slightly. Turn-in, mid-corner rotation, and power delivery through track out is really well balanced and well communicated. The car feels confident to slide in at any speed. (OK, I haven't slid at 130 yet . . . probably wouldn't want to!)

I store it during the winter. I use PS4S on my stock wheels and set the Ohlin's at 10 clicks from full stiff during the fringe seasons (March-early april and late Sept-Nov where I live). It is still a great touring car and back roads warrior when set up this way.
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      08-12-2020, 09:43 AM   #4
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Can you comment on what it took to get the seat to work properly? Did you need to do any coding after removing the stock seat to avoid error messages, or does the seat you installed plug into the sensor harness?

For now, I use the Po'boy racing seat and harness. That means I have memory#2 set to my track position. I move the seat rearward for 5 seconds, tug aggressively on the seatbelt to lock/pretension it, then use memory 2 to bring it back to my track position with the seatbelt now tight enough that I can breathe, but can't move in the seat at all. Believe it or not, it stays tight for a whole session as long as it is tight enough that it never has a chance to relax a bit.
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1M track toy mods: BMS chargepipe, BMS OCC, ADE FMIC, ADE motor mounts, MadDad/Lightweight Ti exhaust, ADE custom oil thermostat/cooler, custom MHD tune, F10 550i clutch, Ohlins R+T, Vorschlag camber plates, M3 'vert FSB with Turner endlinks, Stoptech Trophy BBK.
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      08-12-2020, 11:48 AM   #5
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Any adverse affects you noticed from lowering more in the front than rear?
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      08-12-2020, 02:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frenzy757 View Post
Any adverse affects you noticed from lowering more in the front than rear?
No. Most lowering springs do that also, and that is the recommended adjustment from Ohlins. There is still noticeably more wheel gap in the front. The rear tires tuck a little on the OEM 19's.
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1M track toy mods: BMS chargepipe, BMS OCC, ADE FMIC, ADE motor mounts, MadDad/Lightweight Ti exhaust, ADE custom oil thermostat/cooler, custom MHD tune, F10 550i clutch, Ohlins R+T, Vorschlag camber plates, M3 'vert FSB with Turner endlinks, Stoptech Trophy BBK.
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      08-12-2020, 02:36 PM   #7
djafactor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarJunkie View Post
That's awesome.

The 1M has so much potential with suspension adjustments. I have spent years tweaking mine slowly, using track days and autocross to find the best setup.

Mods are in sig. Ride height is about 15mm lowered in the front from stock, and about 5mm lowered in the rear. I run -2.5 degrees camber and zero toe in the front, -1.8 camber and 1/16" toe in at the rear. Track setup has PFC-08 pads all around and a square wheel/tire set, currently Toyo T1R 275/35/18, Ohlins set to 3 clicks out from full stiff in front, 4-5 clicks out in rear depending on track. The square setup produces massive front braking grip, and the rear feels too light in 120mph+ braking zones if the rear shocks aren't softened slightly. Turn-in, mid-corner rotation, and power delivery through track out is really well balanced and well communicated. The car feels confident to slide in at any speed. (OK, I haven't slid at 130 yet . . . probably wouldn't want to!)

I store it during the winter. I use PS4S on my stock wheels and set the Ohlin's at 10 clicks from full stiff during the fringe seasons (March-early april and late Sept-Nov where I live). It is still a great touring car and back roads warrior when set up this way.
Sounds like a weapon! As is mine feels really good but your car with the 275s all around must have insane grip. The braking from over 220kph is where the rear felt floaty, i couldn't just stand on it as there was just too much dive. I'm running stock dampers so nothing else i can really do for now.

For my seat i'm running bimmerworld base mount with OMP fixed side brackets on a OMP-WRC racing bucket. This is the biggest upgrade to the overall feel for the car. I'm sitting practically on the floor and feel everything through my hips which makes the car extra communicative. I'm pretty sure the seat gives me an extra second.

Glad to hear you are ripping it like it was built for vs all these garage queens out there.
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      08-12-2020, 03:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarJunkie View Post
That's awesome.

The 1M has so much potential with suspension adjustments. I have spent years tweaking mine slowly, using track days and autocross to find the best setup.

Mods are in sig. Ride height is about 15mm lowered in the front from stock, and about 5mm lowered in the rear. I run -2.5 degrees camber and zero toe in the front, -1.8 camber and 1/16" toe in at the rear. Track setup has PFC-08 pads all around and a square wheel/tire set, currently Toyo T1R 275/35/18, Ohlins set to 3 clicks out from full stiff in front, 4-5 clicks out in rear depending on track. The square setup produces massive front braking grip, and the rear feels too light in 120mph+ braking zones if the rear shocks aren't softened slightly. Turn-in, mid-corner rotation, and power delivery through track out is really well balanced and well communicated. The car feels confident to slide in at any speed. (OK, I haven't slid at 130 yet . . . probably wouldn't want to!)

I store it during the winter. I use PS4S on my stock wheels and set the Ohlin's at 10 clicks from full stiff during the fringe seasons (March-early april and late Sept-Nov where I live). It is still a great touring car and back roads warrior when set up this way.
I have regularly experienced the same rear-getting-light in high speed braking zones and it drives me crazy.
I have Ohlins R/T as well and have tried softening the rear (7-10 clicks) vs front (4-5 clicks), changing the toe (don't know what I'm really doing there) and putting on a less aggressive pad on the rear -- none of it has dialed it out completely. It wouldn't be surprising if some of this is braking-technique-related as well.

It had not occurred to me that this is a natural byproduct of running a square setup so I find this strangely reassuring.
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      08-12-2020, 03:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
It had not occurred to me that this is a natural byproduct of running a square setup so I find this strangely reassuring.
That has been my assumption. I never had the issue until I went square. There is more grip in the front relative to the rear than the ABS system expects, and the rear will run out of grip first.

I have found that a gradual application (still quick, but not slamming the brake pedal down) helps a lot, and make sure the car is completely straight and settled when initiating braking. The other nice thing about the square setup and adequate front camber is that trail braking can be done, but isn't a necessity to get the car rotating as it is on the stock setup.
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      08-23-2020, 03:40 AM   #10
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So the m2 has an ecu flash but the 1m dont?
ofcourse it would run away, just mod the 1m and see how it faires again
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      08-24-2020, 12:17 AM   #11
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Thanks for sharing, I'm hoping to get out on the track like this soon. I am the proud new owner of a 1M (appears mostly stock and just under 50k so parts are starting to ship). Previous ownership in reverse order: F80 (stripper), N55 135i, M50 swapped 318is, 87 325is, 90 325is. I look forward to sharing my OEM+ build with you all. Having started with E30s and owned the incredible F80, I firmly believe the 1M is the best M car for me.

Last edited by PRTSB1M; 08-24-2020 at 10:35 AM..
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      08-24-2020, 07:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UN1CORM View Post
Thanks for sharing, I'm hoping to get out on the track like this soon. I am the proud new owner of a 1M (appears mostly stock and just under 50k so parts are starting to ship). Previous ownership in reverse order: F80 (stripper), N55 135i, M50 swapped 318is, 87 325is, 90 325is. I look forward to sharing my OEM+ build with you all. Having started with E30s and owned the incredible F80, I firmly believe the 1M is the best M car for me.
Welcome!
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