01-16-2020, 01:40 AM | #1 |
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Noticing a bit of turbo lag
So my 1m has: Forge intercooler, GAIC Stg 1 tune, intake/midpipe. The car has some turbo lag where it feels like a normal turbo cars of old.
I remember my 100% stock 1m having almost instant thrust...a bit of lag, but the power came on FAST. This car seems to build up like a normal car. Do you all know why this could be the case? Did the tune do that? Larger IC?
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01-16-2020, 11:17 AM | #2 |
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How long since last walnut blasting? The more carbon build up the more sluggish mine starts to feel over time.
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01-16-2020, 11:44 AM | #3 |
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Try a throttle reset. Other possibilities are that your tune adjusted the wastegate adaptation.
Doubt a small increase in FMIC size would produce tangible lag.
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01-23-2020, 07:04 PM | #4 |
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OP also mentioned in another thread that it he saw the boost was being limited "I also ran some highway pulls and boost seems to be limited to 6-7PSI in 1st and 2nd gear, 3rd gear goes up to 15psi, which seems more normal. Just wondering what could have caused this as mods were installed by a PO and not me."
And I suggested "Are you sure you have a GIAC tune installed on the car? Boost limiting by gear is a pretty common setting using a JB4, not saying you have a JB4, just that what you describe is a common and easily achievable modification by the JB4." I understand now they confirmed there's a GIAC tune on the car, my theory about a possible JB4 may still be relevant though due to the boost by gear settings. OP, try pressing the down button on both steering wheel buttons at the same time (minus volume and down arrow), if the guages do anything then that'll confirm there's a JB4 in there. |
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02-21-2020, 10:40 AM | #5 |
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Tried it and the guages didnt do anything. Might have to take it into a shop.
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04-11-2020, 05:18 PM | #6 |
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Update on this.
So I changed both boost solenoids and same deal. 1st max boost is about 6psi 2nd about 8psi 3rd + maxes at 9.8psi Seems off right? Also in third gear around 3-4k RPMs there feels like significant turbo lag. Like seconds before it really starts to make power. Any other ideas? I might just take it in and get the GAIC tune back to stock and see if that does anything.
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04-11-2020, 06:06 PM | #7 |
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First check for any shadow codes. Like for pending boost leaks. Also look at the airflow MAP sensor data. Perhaps the engine doesn't really know what the engine's airflow intake is.
I would also look at your divertor vales(there are two on the CP). And lastly look for any boost leaks... look for oil or dirt on the charged side of the FMIC to the throttle body. Perhaps your CP(charge pipe) has cracked ? Dackel
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04-12-2020, 02:11 PM | #8 |
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Only thing I see is 29e0 on my P3.
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04-13-2020, 09:57 AM | #9 |
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As previously mentioned, cleaning the intake valves and ports (via walnut blasting) can have a tremendous effect in performance. I just did this for my '09 335 and was absolutely floored by how much junk was in there. Honestly, I'm amazed the car ran as well as it did. Hesitation and stuttering were my biggest symptoms, no codes were present.
While you're in there, replace the OFH and t-stat gaskets, and the two oil cooler o-rings. You do NOT want the serpentine belt to fail from oil contamination! |
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04-13-2020, 02:13 PM | #10 | |
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Did that fix any boost issues? I think the main things I am working through are lower boost than what I'd expect (9.6 PSI versus I think 15 or so I should get) and then a sensation of massive turbo lag.
Quote:
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04-13-2020, 08:06 PM | #11 |
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Do you have any data logs? I'd be curious to see actual vs requested load and the state of your HPFP.
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04-14-2020, 12:00 AM | #12 |
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I just took a look at the Torque app and didn't seem to be able to log requested load and anything related to HPFP.
What do you use to log data in your 1m?
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04-19-2020, 03:43 AM | #13 |
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update:
Flashed back to stock and now it is throwing the 30FF code but only after I rev it out in third. Target reports around 12-13PSI but only reaches 8max. All lines seem ok but im going to double check the chargepipe and diverter valves. Anyone have success with the clogged cats theory? This car has the maddog midpipes if that matters.
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04-19-2020, 08:00 AM | #14 |
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Can you log the car? I want to see what your WGDC and loads vs requested loads and boost vs requested boost are.
Best way to log is to buy the MHD monitor module and a WiFi adapter if you have an Android phone or tablet available.
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04-23-2020, 05:53 PM | #16 |
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Have an aftermarket one that is metal and not cracked so I don't think it is the charge pipe.
Car is a bit taken apart so haven't had a chance to drive/get logs but hopefully will do that this weekend. Next on the list to check are IC seals. Eventhough the piping looks connected, I hear the orings sometimes fail so I got new ones to replace. Will check the diverter valves after that, then the dreaded wastegate if all else fails...maybe it is time to go single. I haven't ever driven a single N54 and throttle response is very important to me, so we'll see...
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04-23-2020, 09:10 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
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04-25-2020, 12:19 AM | #18 |
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Here are my logs. Looks like wgdc is low and stays low while I never reach target boost.
Any thoughts? https://datazap.me/u/frenzy757/log-1...a=3-4-20-27-28
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04-28-2020, 03:18 PM | #19 |
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WGDC after PID is pegged, it's doing everything it can to hit boost target.
Have the vacuum lines have been replaced?
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04-28-2020, 03:57 PM | #20 |
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Yep all replaced no difference. Even tried 1.5-2 turns on the actuator arm.
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04-28-2020, 04:02 PM | #21 |
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Did you ever test or replace your two diverter valves on the CP ?
Another thing you should do is run a smoke test... and see whats leaking boost. But a bad diverter valve will only leak internally.
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04-28-2020, 04:19 PM | #22 |
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The PO did with Forged. I tried a vacuum test and they hold pressure so don't think it is them. I ordered a refresh kit for them so I'll be rebuilding them anyways.
Also getting some stuff together to do more vacuum tests and test the actuators themselves. I have a feeling I might have to replace at least the rear one for now.
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