froop's AW 135i Build Thread

[Fidiman]

Very impressed ... You did a really nice job mate

Why did you put the M3 rear subframe and didn't you leave the e82 one ?

Now thinking of doing that job on mine I will begin with mounting the anti-roll bars (F and R), bushings, arms, etc ... After I will concentrate on the M3 diff and some coils stuff.

Another question now : why did you chose a M3 DCT diff and not a manual one ?

[froop]

Originally Posted by MrBlonde

Great project! Gear it up with some BMW Motorsport 410s. Car is now begging for RBs.

Thanks Kenny! No RBs on the cards just yet. A pair of bucket seats and a lightweight battery first then maybe RBs.

[froop]

Originally Posted by Fidiman

Very impressed ... You did a really nice job mate

Why did you put the M3 rear subframe and didn't you leave the e82 one ?

Now thinking of doing that job on mine I will begin with mounting the anti-roll bars (F and R), bushings, arms, etc ... After I will concentrate on the M3 diff and some coils stuff.

Another question now : why did you chose a M3 DCT diff and not a manual one ?

Thanks Fidiman!

The M3 rear subframe is actually constructed differently. I believe you need it in order to fit the M3 LSD housing in addition to the subframe being stronger and possibly lighter (not 100% sure on this though).

If you plan on doing the rear sway bar as well as subframe bushings, I would recommend just doing the whole rear subframe and diff at the same time. It doesn't cost that much more when you take into account labour to remove the entire subframe in order to install those rear components.

I chose the M3 DCT diff due to the final drive ratio. The 135i manual FD ratio is 3.08. The M3 DCT is 3.15 and the M3 manual is 3.86 so the DCT is closest in terms if FD ratio. A 3.86 ratio would be probably way too aggressive for street driving.

[Fidiman]

Originally Posted by froop

Thanks Fidiman!

The M3 rear subframe is actually constructed differently. I believe you need it in order to fit the M3 LSD housing in addition to the subframe being stronger and possibly lighter (not 100% sure on this though).

If you plan on doing the rear sway bar as well as subframe bushings, I would recommend just doing the whole rear subframe and diff at the same time. It doesn't cost that much more when you take into account labour to remove the entire subframe in order to install those rear components.

I chose the M3 DCT diff due to the final drive ratio. The 135i manual FD ratio is 3.08. The M3 DCT is 3.15 and the M3 manual is 3.86 so the DCT is closest in terms if FD ratio. A 3.86 ratio would be probably way too aggressive for street driving.

Thanks for your informations I think your job will inspire mine !

A member of another french forum on which I am too fitted the M3 LSD on his 135i (I can't find the link ...) So normaly if I fit all the M3 suspension stuff (you can find the list here), the M3 LSD, the gimbals and the drive shaft it should work well !
I'm reflectin', if it doesn't go, I could buy the M subframe ...

For the moment, I sadly have not enought bucks to do all the jobs as I'm student ! I know I should do all the work in one time, but I can't.
For replacing the bushings and the rear anti-roll bar, you're not obliged to drop completely the subframe (moreover, I will use Powerflex bushings which come in two parts)

I understand better with your final drive ratios explainations, thanks ! When you talk about agressivity, is it in term of acceleration ? Noise ? Something else ?

[froop]

Originally Posted by Fidiman

Thanks for your informations I think your job will inspire mine !

A member of another french forum on which I am too fitted the M3 LSD on his 135i (I can't find the link ...) So normaly if I fit all the M3 suspension stuff (you can find the list here), the M3 LSD, the gimbals and the drive shaft it should work well !
I'm reflectin', if it doesn't go, I could buy the M subframe ...

For the moment, I sadly have not enought bucks to do all the jobs as I'm student ! I know I should do all the work in one time, but I can't.
For replacing the bushings and the rear anti-roll bar, you're not obliged to drop completely the subframe (moreover, I will use Powerflex bushings which come in two parts)

I understand better with your final drive ratios explainations, thanks ! When you talk about agressivity, is it in term of acceleration ? Noise ? Something else ?

If you're going to go the route of the M3 LSD I would recommend getting the subframe as well whilst you're at it. This is because when buying the entire rear axle it ends up being quite cheap and you get the rear sway bar, all the arms, axle shafts, diff and don't forget that it comes with the M3 bushings as well. It's vastly cheaper than buying everything separately. Then it's pretty much just a straight bolt on other than the lower camber link ( need new rear struts) and rear toe arm (need adjustable arms).

But yeah, when I talk about the aggressiveness of the final drive ratio, basically increasing the ratio will shorten the amount of time spent in each gear. I.e, higher revs and/or higher gear required for a certain speed compared to the standard ratio. This will help with acceleration but will reduce too speed and also affect highway driving.

I don't know the exact numbers (I.e. I'm guessing), but let's say with your stock ratio you are in 6th gear around 2,000 RPMs at 100kph. Increasing the final drive ratio will mean that your RPMs at that same cruising speed will be higher. Going from 3.08 to 3.15 doesn't make too much difference, but increase it to 3.86 and it could potentially make it pretty bad.

[BLU135i]

Originally Posted by froop

Hey man,

Yeah I did put in the M3 LSD. It's a DCT 3.15 FD one. I love it! You can definitely notice it in the corners. I used to just get the rear sliding out everywhere but now it just accelerates through corners so much better.

I actually received a set of RE M3 adjustable toe arms and front tender springs from HPA and dropped the car back off at Advan for installation and alignment. Hopefully it should be back by next week and I can take it back out to the drag strip!

How did those adjustable toe arms work for you?

[froop]

Originally Posted by BLU135i

How did those adjustable toe arms work for you?

Hey, they worked perfectly! Allowed for a proper alignment with room to spare either way.

But yeah, as I had the M3 subframe, even with 135i hubs I had to get the M3 adjustable rear toe arms. If you have a 135i rear subframe with the 135i hubs then you would have to get the non-M 135i adjustable rear toe arms.

[Cakezilla]

FROOP! When you gonna get some RB's man? C'mon don't let us all down. We wanna see 300kw+

[froop]

Originally Posted by Cakezilla

FROOP! When you gonna get some RB's man? C'mon don't let us all down. We wanna see 300kw+

Haha when my current turbos die I will get some RBs. At the moment they hold boost perfectly well, although the seals are shot and I'm even smoking through the mid cats. Despite that, I got a 309.9kW atrw last dyno day at Advan on their Dyno Dynamics roller and that was on 16psi of boost. I'm not at 20psi but I haven't re-dyno'd yet.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by froop

Haha when my current turbos die I will get some RBs. At the moment they hold boost perfectly well, although the seals are shot and I'm even smoking through the mid cats. Despite that, I got a 309.9kW atrw last dyno day at Advan on their Dyno Dynamics roller and that was on 16psi of boost. I'm not at 20psi but I haven't re-dyno'd yet.

Just run a kill map for a few months, 20 pounds midrange tapering to whatever you want. Smoke your stockers, then get hyrbid twins. The rest of your car is pretty supreme man, it deserves the power!

Seriously, this is one of the best cars on the board. Awesome stuff.

[froop]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

Just run a kill map for a few months, 20 pounds midrange tapering to whatever you want. Smoke your stockers, then get hyrbid twins. The rest of your car is pretty supreme man, it deserves the power!

Seriously, this is one of the best cars on the board. Awesome stuff.

Thanks Pats!

Sorry that was a typo btw. I meant to say I'm now at 20psi haha. Trying my hardest =P. They were previously at 20 on some custom map but it wasn't running properly so I installed the OTS maps which start at 16 and worked my way back up to 20.

[froop]

Just went to my first motorkhana yesterday. This is an in-car video of my last and best run after a fairly steep learning curve haha. It was the 5th and final course.

Here's another video of an earlier run with a different course layout. I think from memory though I was in the passenger seat for this and it was the motorkhana champion driving lol.

[froop]

Here's a picture that a photographer took on a late night cruise with some of the boys here in Sydney.

[Weezy]

Fk yeah motorkhana looks fun in this thing. I did one a while ago in my 200sx.

[froop]

Originally Posted by Weezy

Fk yeah motorkhana looks fun in this thing. I did one a while ago in my 200sx.

Yeah it was awesome! Pity I didn't get a better angle on the gopro. I need to get a roll cage mount.

Definitely give it a go. The 1ers can be pretty snappy on the rear so there's a lot of sideways action to be had haha.

[John_01]

Any updates?

[froop]

Originally Posted by John_01

Any updates?

Haha hey John!

Yeah since my last post there've been quite a few new developments. The first and most being that my turbos rather than just smoke, started to overboost and rattle so I got RBs put in. At the same time I had the turbo compressor pipe "uncrushed" as well as a SteveAZ 450 LPFP installed. I also got some new tyres, Yokohama AD08Rs which are fantastic compared to my old Federal 595 RSRs. Unfortunately there are some fitment issues which need to be sorted out as I went with 235 and 265s and the shoulders also are much much squarer.

I'm now running a custom E50 Cobb backend with the Procede to control boost, meth and fueling. Learning to do the tuning myself as well with ATR. Unfortunately, I seem to be getting AFR and fuel trim issues which are most likely related to a rear O2 sensors in bank 2 going bad. I'm currently waiting on new set to arrive however in the meantime I've snapped my arm in two so that's put a dampener on things for the time being until that's healed.

I dyno'd at 350 rwkw on a mainline dyno which should be equivalent to 370 rwkw on a dyno dynamics roller. That was done using just 98 octane fuel and meth. On E50 + meth I hope to push as close to 400 rwkw as possible.

As soon as my arm heals, O2 sensors are fixed, tyre fitment is fixed and I'm done with tuning, I'll get it dyno'd again and take it down to the strip again. I managed a 12.1@122mph with a 2.0 60 ft but that was with just the Procede and also with some pretty bad timing drops and throttle closures.

[John_01]

That all sounds cool, but I'm sorry to hear about the arm. Ouch!

The RB turbos should be good and reliable upgrade. That together with the new tyres will unleash a lot of potential.
You already got the suspension to handle the power, so I can't wait to see what its capable of.

Good luck with the fender clearance. The AD08 in 265 might be a bit of a challenge - Please post pics when you get it sorted.

[froop]

Originally Posted by John_01

That all sounds cool, but I'm sorry to hear about the arm. Ouch!

The RB turbos should be good and reliable upgrade. That together with the new tyres will unleash a lot of potential.
You already got the suspension to handle the power, so I can't wait to see what its capable of.

Good luck with the fender clearance. The AD08 in 265 might be a bit of a challenge - Please post pics when you get it sorted.

Thanks John,

I was running 18x9 ET50 wheels with 5mm spacers with my 255/35 federals and had no issues with rolled fenders. The 265s were rubbing badly even with no spacers. In the end I had to get 6mm shaved off the back of the wheel to make an effective ET of 56. No issues with rubbing now.

The main problem will be the fronts. They're yet to get fitted but with my coilovers and 225s I only have maybe 5mm of clearance from the lower spring perch even with 12mm spacers. To raise the spring perch I'm going to have to get some thinner helper springs which hopefully will raise it enough so as not to impede on the inside. Right now, the swift helper springs are probably almost 30mm at block height. Thinking of getting some Eibach helper springs which have maybe a 12mm block height. Finger crossed that it will work...

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by froop

Here's a picture that a photographer took on a late night cruise with some of the boys here in Sydney.

Very random but I wish we had roads called "Kangaroo Point" in America.

Here it's all "Wilson Lane" and "New York BLVD". Boring....


What's this about wheel fitment struggles? I have dreams of going up to 275 out back on 9.5 effective ET52 ARC8 wheel (10mm spacer bcuz aesthetics). Right now on 265s without a fender roll, it's pretty ugly. Hoping that a roll and a little more camber gives me the space I need but i'm pessimistic.

[froop]

It all depends on the tyre. I'm sure most tyres with 265s it would have been fine without needing to shave the wheel but AD08Rs run wide. Really really wide. Also, I only had 9" wide wheels and not 9.5 so they do bulge a little.

I thought that to fit 275s the Arc-8s normally had an ET of 62 or something. A 9.5 with an ET of 52 won't fit 275s I don't think. Especially with a spacer.

[MrBlonde]

Originally Posted by froop

.. When I picked it up off Kenny the paint did seem a little...unloved ..

What are you trying to say???? :-D