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      03-30-2021, 12:51 PM   #45
wantmymoneyincash
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driven5 View Post
While you're adjusting the rear height, don't forget to bring the rear damping down about the same amount.
Got the alignment done and raised the front up about an inch and a quarter or so and it rides so much better. It's not crashing into the bump stops anymore, I guess it was quite low now; sitting at about a finger and a half now maybe. I think I measured 23 3/8s from the bottom of the rim. It sits quite nicely right now so I think I will leave it until I want to tinker with it again. Will probably play with the rebound though. When are you expected to get your set?
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      03-30-2021, 04:59 PM   #46
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Glad to hear they're working better for you.

I've had mine for a while now, although the springs were delayed a bit. Soon I'll be taking the car out of service for a while so I can do a bunch of work to it, including the coilover install.
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      04-02-2021, 09:52 PM   #47
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Driven5 wantmymoneyincash

Damned if I can figure this YCW setup out. Here's what I'm thinking out getting. And it seems prices have increased since the special prices on here and on eBay. Driven5 has given provided some advise

FITMENT: BMW E8X/E9X (Non-M)
MOUNTS: Vulcanized rubber ($0.00)
BEARING TYPE: Standard ($0.00)
MAIN SPRINGS: Swift Linear (60mm ID) ($200.00)
HELPER SPRINGS: None ($0.00)
DAMPING: Simutaneous ($0.00)
VALVING: Aeris ($0.00)
DIMENSIONS: default
TYPE: Assembled ($200.00)

Advise I need is:
- will default dimensions give me enough travel for 1" lowering from Msport
- comments on top mounts (I picked camber plates with vulcanized rubber)
- Spring rates of 6KG / 14KG (was told by YCW and Driven5 that I should go to 6KG so no customization is needed)
- picked 60mm springs mainly for front wheel clearance (235/40x18 40mm offset) but was told that 60mm has less travel. Should I go with 65mm? My fenders are rolled as I guess spacers will work if there are clearance issues.

My 135i is a DD and I don't want it overly stiff. I'm currently using BMW PS (2.9Kg F / 7.5Kg R) with Bilstein B8. It's a great setup for the street but a little soft in the front for track use.

Thanks for your advice.
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      04-04-2021, 02:15 AM   #48
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Based on my measurements and math, which all still needs to be verified on install, the standard dimension bodies/shafts with 6k springs should be able to go roughly 1.25" lower than MY stock (worn out) msport suspension while still maintaining a nominal preload.

Point of clarification: The vulcanized rubber mounts do not include camber plates. If you want these for the lower NVH, you could always ask if they might be able to work with the Dinan plates. Adjustable camber plates only come with the solid or cushioned spherical mounts. Not having seen such a thing before, I decided to give the cushioned spherical mounts a try. I don't really know enough about them to say one way or the other though, about how good they are (or aren't) nor how well they do (or don't) hold up.

Even if my measurements are a bit rough, I feel reasonably confident that if you want to run the standard bodies/shafts, 6k is about as low as you would want to go with spring rate and still be able to set it up to function as intended. After confirming on install, I hope to detailing out one or two other specific combos that I currently believe should be good for 5k front springs... One of which should be minimal drop and the other of which may be able to approach a 1" drop. I simply can't get the math to work out to my satisfaction with 4k springs on any of their hardware combos.

On spring/perch to tire/wheel clearance, the rough math says it will likely be close no matter how you slice it, but there's a chance your lower perch (and spring) might also be short enough in length to sufficiently clear the tire (and wheel) regardless of 60mm or 65mm springs and even with a 1" drop. Unfortunately, this too falls under the 'needs to be verified on install' category. Based on the Swift site, and assuming you're talking 7" springs, it says there is only a 0.1" difference in both usable and max stroke... If that makes your decision any easier. I too made a small (but still bigger than that) sacrifice to spring travel to get a slightly more conservative wheel/spacer fitment as well, but also won't know if it was even necessary until after install.

I'm sorry I still can't really commit to many recommendations specifically at this point in time, as my data is all still coming from math based on my own less-than-perfect measurements. As with any math, if I screwed up anywhere along the way, garbage in would equal garbage.

Also, I'd recommend reading the 'Suspension 101' on the YCW page. It'll give some good insight into why I went with 1-way (rebound only) over 'simultaneous' damping adjustment.
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Last edited by Driven5; 04-04-2021 at 02:36 AM..
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      04-04-2021, 10:04 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PcarDefector View Post
Driven5 wantmymoneyincash

Damned if I can figure this YCW setup out. Here's what I'm thinking out getting. And it seems prices have increased since the special prices on here and on eBay. Driven5 has given provided some advise

FITMENT: BMW E8X/E9X (Non-M)
MOUNTS: Vulcanized rubber ($0.00)
BEARING TYPE: Standard ($0.00)
MAIN SPRINGS: Swift Linear (60mm ID) ($200.00)
HELPER SPRINGS: None ($0.00)
DAMPING: Simutaneous ($0.00)
VALVING: Aeris ($0.00)
DIMENSIONS: default
TYPE: Assembled ($200.00)

Advise I need is:
- will default dimensions give me enough travel for 1" lowering from Msport
- comments on top mounts (I picked camber plates with vulcanized rubber)
- Spring rates of 6KG / 14KG (was told by YCW and Driven5 that I should go to 6KG so no customization is needed)
- picked 60mm springs mainly for front wheel clearance (235/40x18 40mm offset) but was told that 60mm has less travel. Should I go with 65mm? My fenders are rolled as I guess spacers will work if there are clearance issues.

My 135i is a DD and I don't want it overly stiff. I'm currently using BMW PS (2.9Kg F / 7.5Kg R) with Bilstein B8. It's a great setup for the street but a little soft in the front for track use.

Thanks for your advice.
Been driving on them for about 2 weeks now. The rears are quite nice and the back end feels super planted especially with the subframe bushings. I did have initial issues with the front end being too low and I was crashing into the bump stops. I raised it up a bit and I'm about a finger and half gap and it's much smoother and doesn't crash anymore unless it's a harsh bump or whathaveyou.

Currently, I'm having complaints with some front end clunking and I think it might be the camber plates but I'm not too sure. Been thinking about oemtop hats + dinan plates. The other issue that I haven't addressed is the rear ride height; I can't go any higher (lower ride height) on the spring perch or it will be too loose. I have to try to lower the strut and then raise the perch but it's a pain to do, just haven't done it yet. I have the Monroe rear upper mounts and I really had to crank on them to stop clunking, the threads actually aren't even halfway through the nut on the mount... the upper bolt on the strut needs to be longer..but it works.

Overall the ride is quite firm, a bit more than stock for sure but also more planted and connected if that makes sense. You will feel every dip bump and dive and the chassis will respond to it so it will not be as comfortable as stock msport. I have these for the street and I haven't been on the track. They are extremely complaint on flat roads, however. But overall, the car responds super well and it's quite planted to the road. I'm on 6k and 18k btw.
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      04-24-2021, 06:14 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driven5 View Post
Based on my measurements and math, which all still needs to be verified on install, the standard dimension bodies/shafts with 6k springs should be able to go roughly 1.25" lower than MY stock (worn out) msport suspension while still maintaining a nominal preload.

Point of clarification: The vulcanized rubber mounts do not include camber plates. If you want these for the lower NVH, you could always ask if they might be able to work with the Dinan plates. Adjustable camber plates only come with the solid or cushioned spherical mounts. Not having seen such a thing before, I decided to give the cushioned spherical mounts a try. I don't really know enough about them to say one way or the other though, about how good they are (or aren't) nor how well they do (or don't) hold up.

Even if my measurements are a bit rough, I feel reasonably confident that if you want to run the standard bodies/shafts, 6k is about as low as you would want to go with spring rate and still be able to set it up to function as intended. After confirming on install, I hope to detailing out one or two other specific combos that I currently believe should be good for 5k front springs... One of which should be minimal drop and the other of which may be able to approach a 1" drop. I simply can't get the math to work out to my satisfaction with 4k springs on any of their hardware combos.

On spring/perch to tire/wheel clearance, the rough math says it will likely be close no matter how you slice it, but there's a chance your lower perch (and spring) might also be short enough in length to sufficiently clear the tire (and wheel) regardless of 60mm or 65mm springs and even with a 1" drop. Unfortunately, this too falls under the 'needs to be verified on install' category. Based on the Swift site, and assuming you're talking 7" springs, it says there is only a 0.1" difference in both usable and max stroke... If that makes your decision any easier. I too made a small (but still bigger than that) sacrifice to spring travel to get a slightly more conservative wheel/spacer fitment as well, but also won't know if it was even necessary until after install.

I'm sorry I still can't really commit to many recommendations specifically at this point in time, as my data is all still coming from math based on my own less-than-perfect measurements. As with any math, if I screwed up anywhere along the way, garbage in would equal garbage.

Also, I'd recommend reading the 'Suspension 101' on the YCW page. It'll give some good insight into why I went with 1-way (rebound only) over 'simultaneous' damping adjustment.
Thanks for your feedback Driven5 .

I will have a read through the dampening selection link the you suggested.

Also will go with the 65mm OD springs.

The ycw top mounts are unclear to me. I think MFactory said that camber plates were included with the standard setup but I guess if I want rubber I should get the spherical with rubber for $100 more?
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      04-24-2021, 06:35 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wantmymoneyincash View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by PcarDefector View Post
Driven5 wantmymoneyincash

Damned if I can figure this YCW setup out. Here's what I'm thinking out getting. And it seems prices have increased since the special prices on here and on eBay. Driven5 has given provided some advise

FITMENT: BMW E8X/E9X (Non-M)
MOUNTS: Vulcanized rubber ($0.00)
BEARING TYPE: Standard ($0.00)
MAIN SPRINGS: Swift Linear (60mm ID) ($200.00)
HELPER SPRINGS: None ($0.00)
DAMPING: Simutaneous ($0.00)
VALVING: Aeris ($0.00)
DIMENSIONS: default
TYPE: Assembled ($200.00)

Advise I need is:
- will default dimensions give me enough travel for 1" lowering from Msport
- comments on top mounts (I picked camber plates with vulcanized rubber)
- Spring rates of 6KG / 14KG (was told by YCW and Driven5 that I should go to 6KG so no customization is needed)
- picked 60mm springs mainly for front wheel clearance (235/40x18 40mm offset) but was told that 60mm has less travel. Should I go with 65mm? My fenders are rolled as I guess spacers will work if there are clearance issues.

My 135i is a DD and I don't want it overly stiff. I'm currently using BMW PS (2.9Kg F / 7.5Kg R) with Bilstein B8. It's a great setup for the street but a little soft in the front for track use.

Thanks for your advice.
Been driving on them for about 2 weeks now. The rears are quite nice and the back end feels super planted especially with the subframe bushings. I did have initial issues with the front end being too low and I was crashing into the bump stops. I raised it up a bit and I'm about a finger and half gap and it's much smoother and doesn't crash anymore unless it's a harsh bump or whathaveyou.

Currently, I'm having complaints with some front end clunking and I think it might be the camber plates but I'm not too sure. Been thinking about oemtop hats + dinan plates. The other issue that I haven't addressed is the rear ride height; I can't go any higher (lower ride height) on the spring perch or it will be too loose. I have to try to lower the strut and then raise the perch but it's a pain to do, just haven't done it yet. I have the Monroe rear upper mounts and I really had to crank on them to stop clunking, the threads actually aren't even halfway through the nut on the mount... the upper bolt on the strut needs to be longer..but it works.

Overall the ride is quite firm, a bit more than stock for sure but also more planted and connected if that makes sense. You will feel every dip bump and dive and the chassis will respond to it so it will not be as comfortable as stock msport. I have these for the street and I haven't been on the track. They are extremely complaint on flat roads, however. But overall, the car responds super well and it's quite planted to the road. I'm on 6k and 18k btw.
Thanks for your feedback wantmymoneyincash

I have some followup questions:

1. Did you figure out what caused the front clunking noise?

2. Which dampening option did you go with? Rebound or 1 way?

3. Would getting a slightly longer body (Eg 1/2") for solve the top bolt problem? For some reason I thought the threading problem was with the bottom rear perches based on a previous post in the 3-series forum.

4. Wouldn't the rear Monroe donuts make the top perch threading problem worse? Does mfactory have longer bolts?

5. I'm thinking for going with 6/16 for my setup. Might be a way to get a more neutral to slight oversteer response in the track and remove understeer on the street.

Last edited by PcarDefector; 04-25-2021 at 10:24 PM..
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      04-27-2021, 11:15 AM   #52
wantmymoneyincash
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PcarDefector View Post
Thanks for your feedback wantmymoneyincash

I have some followup questions:

1. Did you figure out what caused the front clunking noise?

2. Which dampening option did you go with? Rebound or 1 way?

3. Would getting a slightly longer body (Eg 1/2") for solve the top bolt problem? For some reason I thought the threading problem was with the bottom rear perches based on a previous post in the 3-series forum.

4. Wouldn't the rear Monroe donuts make the top perch threading problem worse? Does mfactory have longer bolts?

5. I'm thinking for going with 6/16 for my setup. Might be a way to get a more neutral to slight oversteer response in the track and remove understeer on the street.
Honestly, I don't know what the clunking is or where it's coming from. It sounds like it's just on the front passenger side when going over bumps in the road at slower and slow speed, not sure if the top mount isn't tightened down, coil bind, camber plates, or even blown strut?? Really don't know but it's kinda irritating me.

I have rebound adjustment only.

No a longer strut body won't help because the strut will only go so far up into the chassis. The issue is the top stud attached to the strut isnt long enough preventing the top mount to be properly secured with the nut. Mine is about half way into the nut but I had to really crank on it to make it tight. Not sure if OEM top mount would be different, I didn't even try them.
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      04-27-2021, 12:10 PM   #53
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The dinan RSM kit would fix the top bolt problem I believe.

Clunking is likely either the adjustable camber plates or sway bar endlink giving up the ghost with more stress. Can also try putting the strut mount / top hat gasket in.
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