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      10-01-2015, 08:32 PM   #23
vtl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL View Post
Jeez Vince it sucks they damaged your driveshaft!

I'm pretty sure you could recut the thread with a thread die, and the shaft would still be OK.
I should have taken another picture at a different angle, that squished thread is actually bulging out 5mm! Could theoretically grind it off and retap but for safety I am going with a new driveshaft. The replacement is from a newer car and looks mint so I would just prefer to do that. The damaged driveshaft technically only set me back another $150 so I won't grumble too much I guess.
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      10-01-2015, 11:57 PM   #24
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Use a 1m drive shaft. Better than getting yours cut welded and balanced.
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      10-02-2015, 12:10 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by e92ben View Post
Use a 1m drive shaft. Better than getting yours cut welded and balanced.
If I had an N55 135i then that is the way to go. Unfortunately the gearbox in my car is different to a 1M.

I guess it might be possible to use the rear section of the 1M propshaft and the slipjoint is probably compatible with my front section (so no cutting or welding needed), but it would still need rebalancing. 1Ms are super rare so you'd only be able to get them new from the dealership (get your lube ready when they quote you)
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      10-02-2015, 12:11 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl
Quote:
Originally Posted by e92ben View Post
Use a 1m drive shaft. Better than getting yours cut welded and balanced.
If I had an N55 135i then that is the way to go. Unfortunately the gearbox in my car is different to a 1M.

I guess it might be possible to use the rear section of the 1M propshaft and the slipjoint is probably compatible with my front section (so no cutting or welding needed), but it would still need rebalancing. 1Ms are super rare so you'd only be able to get them new from the dealership (get your lube ready when they quote you)
I didn't think the n55 would work better than n54 since the n54 is in the 1m.
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      10-02-2015, 12:13 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by e92ben View Post
I didn't think the n55 would work better than n54 since the n54 is in the 1m.
Yeah but the 1M is a bit of a Frankenstein because it actually uses the same gearbox as the N55 135i. Can be confirmed on realoem
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      10-02-2015, 12:14 AM   #28
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@ilikebmxbikes can you chime in on this?
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      10-02-2015, 12:36 AM   #29
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e82 135i n54:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/showpa...diagId=23_0926

e82 135i n55:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/showpa...diagId=23_1121

e82 1M n54:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/showpa...diagId=23_1121

If you look at the propshaft lengths for N55 135i vs N54 135i they are different even though they are using the same differential.
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      10-02-2015, 02:42 AM   #30
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vtl is correct. The 1M uses an N55 6MT which is a different length.

Another option for a driveshaft could be to order a carbon fibre one from DSS. Not sure how much it costs though.
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      10-02-2015, 03:57 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by froop View Post
vtl is correct. The 1M uses an N55 6MT which is a different length.

Another option for a driveshaft could be to order a carbon fibre one from DSS. Not sure how much it costs though.
Speaking of the driveshaft, have you got the measurements for your driveshaft when you installed your M3 rear driveline? The most important measurement overall will be the centre bearing -> diff flange.

There doesn't seem to much info out there on this. I calculated the nominal dimensions of the driveshaft to be 1325mm but one of the other guys have said its 1283mm for total length. I will obviously measure it on my car but would be useful to have some other people's measurements so I have some confidence in my findings.
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      10-04-2015, 08:07 PM   #32
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Well that just sucks, my order on the cheap driveshaft was cancelled on eBay and got a full refund. No idea why, just got "I'm out of stock or can't fulfill the order for another reason".

Now I have to source another right hand driveshaft, if anyone has a lead on one let me know, this is turning out to be a bit of a nightmare
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      10-05-2015, 08:07 PM   #33
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Quick question, do you know if the diff mounts/bushings for the 135i and the 1M/M3 are interchangeable like the rear subframe bushings?
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      10-05-2015, 08:09 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Speaking of the driveshaft, have you got the measurements for your driveshaft when you installed your M3 rear driveline? The most important measurement overall will be the centre bearing -> diff flange.

There doesn't seem to much info out there on this. I calculated the nominal dimensions of the driveshaft to be 1325mm but one of the other guys have said its 1283mm for total length. I will obviously measure it on my car but would be useful to have some other people's measurements so I have some confidence in my findings.
I don't have the measurements unfortunately. I just gave Advan my car and the prop shaft and they took it to a propshaft shop to have it made. I think they just took measurements in the shop and then had it made.
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      10-05-2015, 08:24 PM   #35
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Loving all the cool pics in this thread. Other than the mushroomed threaded driveshaft.

Keep us all updated!
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      10-05-2015, 09:12 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by froop View Post
Quick question, do you know if the diff mounts/bushings for the 135i and the 1M/M3 are interchangeable like the rear subframe bushings?
Yep should be interchangeable:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=395250

I am not sure if I should upgrade the bushings now or just later. I will probably just measure the diameter of the bushings so I know what kind of tool to make to pull out the bushings.

I want to keep the downtime as low as possible so I think i will do the bushings at a later date. I don't mind dropping the diff again later, its not that hard of a job.

I will probably do rear guide rods and toe arms before diff bushings though.
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      10-05-2015, 09:16 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Loving all the cool pics in this thread. Other than the mushroomed threaded driveshaft.

Keep us all updated!
Thanks! I have a lead on a used driveshaft from Germany. Doesn't look as nice condition as the one I bought before but the threads and splines look OK. Got it for the same price as the other shaft that was cancelled.
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      12-14-2015, 09:28 AM   #38
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2008 BMW 135i  [9.50]
any luck on this i just picked up a m3 rear end for my 1er gonna have to go throught the whole driveshaft process myself. but i got a whole m3 shaft from what i understand u just need to use the front 135 shaft and rear m3 shaft
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      12-14-2015, 05:59 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by mistawall View Post
any luck on this i just picked up a m3 rear end for my 1er gonna have to go throught the whole driveshaft process myself. but i got a whole m3 shaft from what i understand u just need to use the front 135 shaft and rear m3 shaft
Been busy so I haven't fitted it yet but I should have all the bits ready to go. Bad time of the year to organize the propshaft being made so might be early January now.

Since my last post I have bought:

- Black balancing washer for the diff input flange
- DP exhaust gaskets
- Transmission->propshaft bolts (these are torque to yield bolts so much be replaced)
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      02-28-2017, 06:14 PM   #40
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Lost motivation to drive the project in 2016, but have recently got off my ass to get everything back on track for the swap.

Finally got around to test fitting it with the help of Socket . This involved dropping the exhaust, diff, undertrays and heatshields, transmission cross member and propshaft. Fitted up the M3 LSD and its a perfect fit, measured up the lengths and reassembled the car back to stock. The M3 LSD requires a custom propshaft and the M3 drive axles, so its quite a big job swapping it over.

Its a great sight seeing that big heatsink, can't wait to get it all installed for real. Have just dropped off the proshaft off today to the driveshaft builder and that should be the final piece of the puzzle to get the new diff in. I have bought a spare 330d proshaft which is the same design as my stock propshaft, albeit a different (longer)length. Automatic transmission propshafts are smaller and weaker, and I did not want to downgrade. I got the spare to prevent any downtime with the car, and enable me to revert back to stock if required.

Bascially, the rear M3 section will need to be put in place of the rear section of the 330d propshaft. Also the front section of the 330d shaft is longer so that will need to be shortened as well. Attached is the dimensions of my custom propshaft, this will only be valid for a N54 135i with manual transmission.

Drawing for custom prop attached:

While the propshaft is being built, I will take off the diff cover, shot blast the heatsink to make it look pretty and refill with new Castrol SAF-XJ 75W-140 oil.










Attached Images
File Type: pdf 135i M3 prop.pdf (12.4 KB, 392 views)
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      03-01-2017, 05:17 AM   #41
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What's the benefit of a m3 diff and axles?
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      03-01-2017, 04:27 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brule View Post
What's the benefit of a m3 diff and axles?
Benefits:
Proper locking differential - torque biasing units do not perform at all when the wheel is unloaded (except wavetrac). Have tracked the car quite a few times and you do find unloading the inside rear wheel happens a lot.

Much easier to rebuild - has a bolted ring gear and plenty of aftermarket options. Even the pumpkins aren't that expensive because of the amount of hassle it is to get it to work with non M cars

Axles and propshaft are much more heavy duty. Most 135i/335is came with 'inserted nut' propshaft->diff couplings which is like a tiny CV joint. Have seen plenty of people breaking this style coupling with hard launches. The side shafts are thicker as well.

Downsides:
Custom propshaft needed
The GKN viscolok diff will lose effectiveness as it gets older
Not that much cheaper than the other options

Honestly it was more work than I thought, and not worth the hassle. If I had to do it again, i'd just get a Difflab (QLD) pumpkin and swap out the diff in a weekend
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      03-01-2017, 11:49 PM   #43
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See if you can get ycw to add this driveshaft to their carbon lineup with that drawing? Would make these conversions a dream, albeit slightly more expensive
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      03-02-2017, 02:07 AM   #44
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I'm worried I'm going to snap an axle this year.
Is there a bolt on axle upgrade from an m3?

The m3 axles have thicker splines and different length than 135 335?

Or is it just a prick of a job pulling the hub off the axle?
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