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04-13-2017, 10:26 PM | #1 |
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CSF Radiator on N54 135i
In my experience my 2008 135i with a mild tune encounters power reductions due to overheating coolant during extended track sessions.
Our ECU begins to progressively reduce power once coolant reaches 117°C (243°F), and the effect is immediately apparent when driving on the track. A similar effect occurs once the oil reaches 151°C (304°F), however, my coolant reaches the limit before the oil does. My experience is not different from others. I thank xBlueStreakx for steering me towards the CSF radiator: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...56&postcount=1 He also pointed out this article: http://oppositelock.kinja.com/my-tho...ato-1745809742 Which leads to this this thread on E90POST which deals with the problem exhaustively: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=412156 So, I have purchased and installed a CSF p/n 7045 radiator. Removing and installing the radiator is somewhat difficult due to the very limited space up front. I found disconnecting the oil cooler lines to greatly help the installation. I ended up replacing the cooling fan shroud as well as mine had cracked at some point. The cooling fan shroud connects to the original radiator at three points: one bolted connection at the upper RH corner, and one plastic clip on each side at mid height. The CSF radiator uses mid-height brackets that do not correctly mate up with the plastic clips. I designed a simple delrin block that provided effective clamping, while ensuring that the shroud remains properly centered on the radiator. I offer the idea up for anyone planning on installing this radiator. The LH plastic clip on the radiator shroud needs a bit of grinding to work with my clamping block. Before: and after: The radiator provisions are simple brackets with clamping screws. LH Bracket: RH Bracket: The shroud clips only half hang on these brackets so the clamping screw does not fully engage and a slight lateral shift will allow the clip to fall off the bracket. My delrin clamping block provides features to ensure the shroud remains centered, and it provides a good surface for the clamping screw to engage. These screws have captive washers which provide no function in this installation. I installed them with Loctite to ensure they wouldn’t back themselves out over time. LH side with Clamping Block: RH side with Clamping Block: |
04-14-2017, 04:01 PM | #3 |
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For what it's worth, I haven't an issue with the fan and shroud assembly moving with the supplied CSF mounting tabs. Is it a flawed design? Certainly. Is it an active issue, not really. I've done a dozen track days since then and there is no movement of the fan assembly.
As always, I like your elegant solution to the issue at hand. Edit: It should be noted that since installing the CSF unit, my water temps stay at 205* all day on track. Even around town, the fan runs a lot less than it did with the stock rad.
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04-17-2017, 12:06 PM | #4 |
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04-17-2017, 12:13 PM | #5 |
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I discovered a conflict between the radiator drain plug and the OE intercooler which prevents it from moving fully into place vertically:
The offending feature is this web: Grinding away a piece 32 mm x 9 mm fixed the problem: Here it is installed: An added note, connect your intercooler fully before reconnecting your coolant hoses and filling the system. The cold pipe coming out of the intercooler and connecting to the charge pipe can't be installed once the coolant hoses are in place. Ideally, get it into position as you install the fan shroud to avoid some cursing. |
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04-17-2017, 01:21 PM | #6 |
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I think I've read elsewhere that other N54 folks have encountered similar issues with the drain plug interference. I think Ginger's kinja blog said something about this as well?
I'm also thinking about replacing the stock oil cooler with a CSF 8042 at the same time - not sure if doing it together with the radiator at the same time pays any convenience dividends. |
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04-17-2017, 03:00 PM | #7 |
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04-18-2017, 02:25 PM | #8 |
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Thanks for sharing your experience with the csf radiator. Just curious, did you inform csf of the issue with the middle mounting tabs?
Your solution is awesome, but I wouldn't be able to create the same solution so I'm wondering what csf says about the issue and what their solution is. |
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04-26-2017, 12:21 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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04-26-2017, 09:00 PM | #10 |
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04-26-2017, 09:22 PM | #11 |
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Drives: 2008 BMW 135i (E88 N54 6AT)
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Sunshine Coast QLD Australia
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So, I just ordered one of these off an Australian eBay seller because my OEM radiator split & the car is off the road.
I'm waiting delivery of the CSF7046 (AT model) and it'll be mounted above a VSRF 7" Intercooler. Had I read this thread, I would've just stayed with the OEM radiator... Looking forward to having heaps of trouble installing it... I'll let you all know how I go. |
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04-27-2017, 04:52 PM | #13 |
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I emailed Ravi back in February about passenger side fan shroud fitment issues (described by Ginger on his kinja blog) and he said it was resolved. But it's a bit unclear to me how this relates to the cumulative fitment issues that have been discussed.
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04-27-2017, 06:12 PM | #14 | ||
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Location aside, those brackets aren't a great fit on the fan shroud, but by no means is this a deal breaker for me. My added delrin block is just me being me - trying to make things just a bit better. Quote:
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05-05-2017, 05:30 AM | #16 | ||||
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Drives: 2008 BMW 135i (E88 N54 6AT)
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Quote:
Quote:
Fan mounts will be the least of my worries. But yeah, it's a bit thicker than stock, which at a minimum causes great difficulty in the already tight space of a 135i automatic convertible with a 7" VSRF intercooler, and most likely will involve some cutting / fabrication to fit. |
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05-05-2017, 08:33 PM | #17 | |
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I found it very helpful (essential actually) to remove the oil cooler hoses from the filter housing to free up some space for the installation. If they are still attached, I suggest starting there. |
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05-07-2017, 09:16 PM | #19 | |
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Material is Delrin. |
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05-14-2017, 02:21 PM | #20 |
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A couple of quick questions I was hoping you could answer. Did you replace the o-rings before reinstalling the coolant hoses to the radiator? Also, do you use any lubricant on the o rings before reinstalling? Thanks.
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05-14-2017, 05:08 PM | #21 |
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I didn't replace the O-rings. I lubricated them with Dow Corning DC4 Dielectric Grease. Petroleum based lubricants are a no-no, although counter to this rule I have used vaseline in the past. DC4 is a silicone-based grease and so seems like a better choice, and I had it on hand. Any silicone grease would probably work just as well. This question does seem to produce a very wide range of opinions on the internet ...
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05-14-2017, 07:52 PM | #22 | |
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