Unplug the eccentric shaft sensor - what does it do?

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by rowsdower

No dice. The new sensor is identical to the factory one and says Continental on it. I suppose VDO manufactures for Conti? Replaced sensor, car doesn't stumble quite as dramatically as before but still revs up and down the same way as before. I replaced MAF because I got a code stating the MAF value was implausibly high and it recurred 3 times. Also was seeing "HFM Sensor airmasse" at 0.00V but the new one still shows that.

I then got a secondary air system code for bank 2 (this is N51 don't forget). The check-valve is working, I pulled it off and blew through it in both directions and it didn't let exhaust back out to the pump. Also started the car with the valve removed and both banks were letting exhaust out of the ports so they are not blocked. With engine running, the checkvalve is not letting air out with the hose removed. I can turn the pump on with INPA and it runs, and is off when the car is running and warm. Okay so ruled out a secondary air failure.

This would point to an O2 sensor failing, I think. I don't know how to interpret the values I'm seeing in INPA for lambda probes. I've read they should be between 0.3 and 0.9 volts. The green range in INPA for precat is 0 to 2.7, and mine are both jumping between 1.3 and 2.5. For postcat, the green range is 0 to 0.9 and both are around 0.43 and jump around a bit. Any thoughts on whether these values look normal?

Are you sure your are reading your MAP values correctly?

Mine would log out at around 1,000 mpa when stopped. 1,000 mpa being the pressure at sea level.

Values would drop when the engine is running and you had a vacuum in the intake manifold.

[rowsdower]

Originally Posted by rjahl

Are you sure your are reading your MAP values correctly?

Mine would log out at around 1,000 mpa when stopped. 1,000 mpa being the pressure at sea level.

Values would drop when the engine is running and you had a vacuum in the intake manifold.

Do you have an N51/52? RealOEM shows it as a differential pressure sensor rather than a MAP sensor. That sensor shows the differential between the pressure in the intake manifold vs ambient. I would expect 0 with the engine off since the manifold would be at ambient pressure. With the engine running and throttle open, I would expect a small value and with throttle closed I would expect a large value, correlated with RPM. There is not much info online about this sensor in this engine.

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by rowsdower

Do you have an N51/52? RealOEM shows it as a differential pressure sensor rather than a MAP sensor. That sensor shows the differential between the pressure in the intake manifold vs ambient. I would expect 0 with the engine off since the manifold would be at ambient pressure. With the engine running and throttle open, I would expect a small value and with throttle closed I would expect a large value, correlated with RPM. There is not much info online about this sensor in this engine.

Mine was an N52.

Did you cross check the part numbers? MAP sensor is the same N51 and N52 plus many others.

[rowsdower]

Originally Posted by rjahl

Mine was an N52.

Did you cross check the part numbers? MAP sensor is the same N51 and N52 plus many others.

I'm not sure what to cross-check against. RealOEM shows the same part numbers for N51 and N52. There have been several variations of this part over the years. The part on my car now is 7585278. This has been superceded by 13628617097, then that was superceded by 13628657300. Each of these is called "Differential pressure sensor" in RealOEM, the ECS site, Turner's site, and FCPEuro. I think some people are using the term MAP in lieu of "differential pressure sensor" because it's shorter and people are more familiar with MAP sensors. However, the sensors read opposite of one another. As pressure increases in the manifold, MAP would show an increase but a DPS would show a decrease and vice versa.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=13628617097


INPA shows "saugrohrdruck" as 0 with engine off. At idle it is 4-5. If I stab the throttle, it drops to zero, then increases to 8 and backs down to 4-5 again as the RPMs drop. This behavior is correct for a differential sensor (basically a manifold vacuum sensor). However, the green range in INPA is 0 to 255 so my readings are at the extreme low end of the scale, which might point to a vacuum leak. But the car runs perfectly with adaptations reset so I'd think it is not a vacuum leak or other mechanical problem.

[Taskmaster]

Did you replace the MAP err. differential pressure sensor yet?

[rowsdower]

Originally Posted by Taskmaster

Did you replace the MAP err. differential pressure sensor yet?

I didn’t, my values seemed close to Desertman and unless he secretly has a car that runs like a turd too, figured my sensor wasn’t toast. I’ve replaced the ESS and MAF so far, and MAP is cheaper than O2 sensors so I guess I’ll try MAP next. Really wanted to diagnose the issue before throwing parts at the car until one of them fixes my issue but at this point I’ve spent enough time grasping straws in the garage staring at Google Translate. Looks like only Genuine on FCPEuro at $85... their site actually says my sensor shouldn’t fit my car but oh well.

[desertman123]

Don't know if this was mentioned, but normal O2 sensors operate between 0-1V, but our primary O2s are wideband, not sure where those operate.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by desertman123

Don't know if this was mentioned, but normal O2 sensors operate between 0-1V, but our primary O2s are wideband, not sure where those operate.

Wideband...fancy!

rowsdower I don't have very much to offer in this area, but I wish you luck in finding a solution that's easy-ish...

[rowsdower]

Originally Posted by rowsdower

I didn’t, my values seemed close to Desertman and unless he secretly has a car that runs like a turd too, figured my sensor wasn’t toast. I’ve replaced the ESS and MAF so far, and MAP is cheaper than O2 sensors so I guess I’ll try MAP next. Really wanted to diagnose the issue before throwing parts at the car until one of them fixes my issue but at this point I’ve spent enough time grasping straws in the garage staring at Google Translate. Looks like only Genuine on FCPEuro at $85... their site actually says my sensor shouldn’t fit my car but oh well.

New MAP sensor, no change though. I emailed BPC to see what they say.

[rowsdower]

Not making much progress with BPC.

I did stumble upon a thread pointing a bad ccv valve. I'm getting suction under the oil filler cap at idle, and removing the cap seems to affect the idle. Check out the video I took. It's difficult to tell if this is normal from what I'm reading in other threads. Thoughts?

[rowsdower]

Revisiting this issue again... I started getting secondary air pump codes but only for bank 2, which pointed to a failed O2 sensor there. I replaced both banks' pre-cat sensors, which cleared the secondary air codes but not the idle stumble.

I'm now trying to get my car through inspection and I'm not achieving readiness for fuel tank ventilation on the stock tune. I followed the procedure detailed in this thread to a T. It says to idle "in gear" for 5 minutes. I idled around a parking lot in first gear for 6 minutes, then tried holding the clutch to the floor for 6 minutes with the transmission in 1st, then tried idling in neutral for 6 minutes. No dice. I've never gotten a code for anything related to the fuel system. Any thoughts on what might cause the system to not be ready but also not throw any codes?

I did stumble upon this thread and the embedded video is exactly what I'm experiencing with my idle stumble. So I'm hoping that whatever is causing my fuel vent readiness problem is also causing my idle problem. I'd rather look into this a bit more before dropping yet another $100 in parts to replace the valve without first confirming it's the problem.

[smeard]

Originally Posted by rowsdower

Revisiting this issue again... I started getting secondary air pump codes but only for bank 2, which pointed to a failed O2 sensor there. I replaced both banks' pre-cat sensors, which cleared the secondary air codes but not the idle stumble.

I'm now trying to get my car through inspection and I'm not achieving readiness for fuel tank ventilation on the stock tune. I followed the procedure detailed in this thread to a T. It says to idle "in gear" for 5 minutes. I idled around a parking lot in first gear for 6 minutes, then tried holding the clutch to the floor for 6 minutes with the transmission in 1st, then tried idling in neutral for 6 minutes. No dice. I've never gotten a code for anything related to the fuel system. Any thoughts on what might cause the system to not be ready but also not throw any codes?

I did stumble upon this thread and the embedded video is exactly what I'm experiencing with my idle stumble. So I'm hoping that whatever is causing my fuel vent readiness problem is also causing my idle problem. I'd rather look into this a bit more before dropping yet another $100 in parts to replace the valve without first confirming it's the problem.

Not gonna lie, man, your story scarin' me! I just ordered headers lol. Please don't ever have the clutch in for a prolonged period of time. This is how people screw up their throwout bearing, and only way to replace it is basically doing the labor to replace a clutch, not worth it! I think the guy in that writeup may have had an auto or dual clutch. The fuel tank ventilation issue sounds like a fuel breather valve (especially if occurring after you fill up) or simply a fluke. FBV used to affect the old e46s all the time, especially SULEVs. N51 has a different, more complex fuel tank that can be more expensive to fix when something goes bad. Try going to your dealer, even if your car is modded the SULEV warranty can cover it if vehicle was first ever registered in a SULEV state and is under 15 year/150k miles. Some dealers are nicer than others, so try em all! I am kind of expecting some idle inconsistencies with headers, so long as it doesn't stall out. Hell, my current stock manifold setup stumbles a tiny bit depending if it is cold or warm. If it stumbles real bad, maybe consider getting a retune? I have known of three 128i owners who regret getting headers, but so many more who love em! I think it depends on how sensitive you are, too. Some of my mustang buddies have idle jumpin up and down and shaking the car with cams, they don't seem to care at all! Good luck, sorry this was long

[rowsdower]

Originally Posted by smeard

Not gonna lie, man, your story scarin' me! I just ordered headers lol. Please don't ever have the clutch in for a prolonged period of time. This is how people screw up their throwout bearing, and only way to replace it is basically doing the labor to replace a clutch, not worth it! I think the guy in that writeup may have had an auto or dual clutch. The fuel tank ventilation issue sounds like a fuel breather valve (especially if occurring after you fill up) or simply a fluke. FBV used to affect the old e46s all the time, especially SULEVs. N51 has a different, more complex fuel tank that can be more expensive to fix when something goes bad. Try going to your dealer, even if your car is modded the SULEV warranty can cover it if vehicle was first ever registered in a SULEV state and is under 15 year/150k miles. Some dealers are nicer than others, so try em all! I am kind of expecting some idle inconsistencies with headers, so long as it doesn't stall out. Hell, my current stock manifold setup stumbles a tiny bit depending if it is cold or warm. If it stumbles real bad, maybe consider getting a retune? I have known of three 128i owners who regret getting headers, but so many more who love em! I think it depends on how sensitive you are, too. Some of my mustang buddies have idle jumpin up and down and shaking the car with cams, they don't seem to care at all! Good luck, sorry this was long

Headers are great, and the idle is only an issue in traffic. Unfortunately mine does stall occasionally on its own when idling. I also have stalled it many times when the idle dips right as I’m taking off from a stop. I may just order the valve... the shop that did my headers also did my oil pan gasket at the same time. The valve looks to be low in the engine bay so it is plausible that it got broken or disconnected during the oil pan job.

[rowsdower]

Well after driving it for a few days, and experimenting with different idle times, it finally achieved readiness for fuel ventilation. I don't know specifically what finally caused it to get ready. I let it idle in my driveway for 30 minutes the other day and it didn't work. Drove it a few times normally and not exceeding 3k RPM but none of that worked. Today I drove it around town running errands and when I came back it was ready.

The fuel vent valve is in the mail already so I'll still change that out this weekend. If it fixes my idle I'll update here.

[smeard]

Originally Posted by rowsdower

Well after driving it for a few days, and experimenting with different idle times, it finally achieved readiness for fuel ventilation. I don't know specifically what finally caused it to get ready. I let it idle in my driveway for 30 minutes the other day and it didn't work. Drove it a few times normally and not exceeding 3k RPM but none of that worked. Today I drove it around town running errands and when I came back it was ready.

The fuel vent valve is in the mail already so I'll still change that out this weekend. If it fixes my idle I'll update here.

Glad she is back to runnin how she should! I ordered headers, hopefully no issues fingers crossed

[rowsdower]

Originally Posted by smeard

Glad she is back to runnin how she should! I ordered headers, hopefully no issues fingers crossed

No it still doesn't run like it should, I just got it to pass inspection. It still runs like shit! If the vent valve fixes it I'll update the thread. Planning to do it on Sunday (track day tomorrow).

[smeard]

Originally Posted by rowsdower

No it still doesn't run like it should, I just got it to pass inspection. It still runs like shit! If the vent valve fixes it I'll update the thread. Planning to do it on Sunday (track day tomorrow).

Oh ahahaha thought it was. Hope it works out

[Patriot_Pat]

Did it ever run normally after the eccentric shaft sensor replacement?

[rowsdower]

Originally Posted by Patriot_Pat

Did it ever run normally after the eccentric shaft sensor replacement?

No that was nearly a year ago and I’ve replaced many things since then but no improvement. My latest idea is the fuel tank vent valve. I was going to replace it last weekend but got sidetracked. Maybe this weekend.

[Chanbmw]

Originally Posted by rowsdower

No that was nearly a year ago and I’ve replaced many things since then but no improvement. My latest idea is the fuel tank vent valve. I was going to replace it last weekend but got sidetracked. Maybe this weekend.

When the adaptation is cleared, you need to do the following reset:

1. Never touch the break pedal & key remains inserted the entire time
2. Insert key and push START Button
3. Press and HOLD accelerator pedal for 30 seconds (some say 5, some say 25 seconds - I did 30 to be sure).
4. WITHOUT RELEASING THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL, push the START Button
5. Release accelerator pedal
6. Wait full 2 minutes
7. Start car normally

Hopefully it works for you.

[Nafy]

Rowsdower, just read two threads of yours. I am starting to think that the BPC tune might be the problem. Seems like all the guys with AA tune and their headers are fine on E90post and 1addicts but not BPC. However, I have been consistently getting 002c3a and 002c9 o2 sensor delayed response since the tune and headers installation about 1 year ago. Is it possible for a tune to create o2 sensor faults?

[rowsdower]

Originally Posted by Nafy

Rowsdower, just read two threads of yours. I am starting to think that the BPC tune might be the problem. Seems like all the guys with AA tune and their headers are fine on E90post and 1addicts but not BPC. However, I have been consistently getting 002c3a and 002c9 o2 sensor delayed response since the tune and headers installation about 1 year ago. Is it possible for a tune to create o2 sensor faults?

The tune is not causing the issue, I have the same issue when I flash to stock. Do those people with the AA tune have a crappy idle when on the stock tune? If so, the AA tune fixes it and BPC does not. But, I don’t know that I have seen anyone mention an idle issue fixed by the AA tune.

I don’t think the tune is causing the faults. It is very common to have an O2 sensor die after doing headers. I had some O2 codes that went away when I replaced the sensors, just still have the idle problem.

Forgot to update this thread - couple weeks ago I replaced the fuel tank vent valve, crankcase breather hose, throttle body gasket and intake manifold gaskets, and checked both DISAs (removed them, checked for play, and activated with INPA - they are fine). No difference.