Valve Cover Gasket Leak

[blue135]

I need some input on how to recognize whether I have a VC Gasket leak. Where/how do find it?
Background:
*2008 135i E88
*Two weeks ago had car at dealer for blower recall. Somehow they identified the leak (from the interior?) They did no other work than recall.
*Last week had shocks replaced at shop I believe to be very competent (focus on German, run by former BMW racer). They did not identify any such problem.
*Can find no sign of oil on front of engine, on belts or on passenger side of engine

So, what do I have to do/take apart to find whether it is leaking?
Thanks

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by blue135

I need some input on how to recognize whether I have a VC Gasket leak. Where/how do find it?
Background:
*2008 135i E88
*Two weeks ago had car at dealer for blower recall. Somehow they identified the leak (from the interior?) They did no other work than recall.
*Last week had shocks replaced at shop I believe to be very competent (focus on German, run by former BMW racer). They did not identify any such problem.
*Can find no sign of oil on front of engine, on belts or on passenger side of engine

So, what do I have to do/take apart to find whether it is leaking?
Thanks

You can pull the coils and see if there is any oil in the spark plug wells. I had some oil in #3 and #4. I didn't know if it was the VCG or VVT gasket, but the kit you buy replaces them all.

Also do you notice any oil loss between oil changes?

Aside from looking at where the Valve Cover mates to the engine for oil residue, possibly smell of burnt oil in the cabin if it is leaking bad enough.

[NorthernDancer]

Remove the engine cover. As I remember, in order to access the rear bolt, you need unattach plastic pieces and cables over the rear of the engine. Remove cover. Then you can easily see if there is oil leakage. A professional on here recommended I leave the cover off as it does nothing; I followed his advice.

[blue135]

Have not noticed any change in oil level between oil changes (5000-6000 mi). Seems to be no loss since last change (less than 2000 mi).
No oil odors, either.

[b1aze]

Originally Posted by NorthernDancer

Remove the engine cover. As I remember, in order to access the rear bolt, you need unattach plastic pieces and cables over the rear of the engine. Remove cover. Then you can easily see if there is oil leakage. A professional on here recommended I leave the cover off as it does nothing; I followed his advice.

You CAN get to the rear bolts without removing the cowling but its not fun and the larger your forearms, the less fun it is.

But I also removed my vanity cover. Itll help me diagnose other things MUCH easier going forward.

[blue135]

b1aze - thanks.

[NorthernDancer]

blue135: make absolutely sure no oil is on alternator and serpentine belt. Actually difficult to see on serp belt. If oil is on alternator, it's on serp belt.

[JimVonBaden]

Links to a reasonably priced, but decent quality, kit?

Mine is leaking.

[b1aze]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

Links to a reasonably priced, but decent quality, kit?

Mine is leaking.

FCP Euro has a pretty good price on an OEM valve cover kit.

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by b1aze

FCP Euro has a pretty good price on an OEM valve cover kit.

That's who I got mine from when I did mine. Mine was a minor leak, but an excuse for me to install the modified intake supports I got from Marty.

[b1aze]

Originally Posted by Rmtt

That's who I got mine from when I did mine. Mine was a minor leak, but an excuse for me to install the modified intake supports I got from Marty.

I know I'm gonna need to do the ESS at some point so I almost want to pick one up now at the price for OEM. Gonna have to look at those MILVS and see if I should just do it while the valve cover is off.

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by b1aze

FCP Euro has a pretty good price on an OEM valve cover kit.

$400 for just the valve cover, then $100 for seals and bolts. That is reasonably priced?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/12...=valve%20cover

What about aftermarket? Rock Auto has all of it for $234. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...lve+cover,5772

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

$400 for just the valve cover, then $100 for seals and bolts. That is reasonably priced?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/12...=valve%20cover

What about aftermarket? Rock Auto has all of it for $234. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...lve+cover,5772

My cover was fine and looked good when I cleaned it up. So I just got gaskets. Plus lifetime warranty!

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by Rmtt

My cover was fine and looked good when I cleaned it up. So I just got gaskets. Plus lifetime warranty!

Did you replace the bolts too?

[Rmtt]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

Did you replace the bolts too?

No...mine is a 2011 like yours.....so it doesn't have aluminum bolts. Just the steel ones. So they are reusable. I do have some parts on the car with aluminum bolts, but they have the heads painted blue.

[b1aze]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

$400 for just the valve cover, then $100 for seals and bolts. That is reasonably priced?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/12...=valve%20cover

What about aftermarket? Rock Auto has all of it for $234. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...lve+cover,5772

If you read the link, youd see the Valve Cover comes with the gaskets, valvetronic gaskets and bolts.

I personally wouldn't trust the aftermarket valve covers. With how prone these are to cracking already, i doubt any aftermarket is stronger. If you save $200 on the part but have to replace it again in 2 years, is it worth it?

[Rmtt]

The only plus I could see to getting a new VC would be I have read of some people cracking theirs replacing the ESS gasket or during removal.

My car has 70,xxx miles on it, and I just cleaned the valve cover up really good, inspected it, and reused it. Of the 27 bolts that come out, all but 3 are held by retainers. The plastic covers don't require new fasteners.

I picked up this kit at $95.00

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11127582245kt1

Hardest part of the job in my opinion was removing the plastic PCV hose at the back, and then getting the cover put back on without "rolling" the gasket as you have to put it on at an angle.

I know some people use small dabs of Ultra-Black RTV at maybe six places around the cover to hold the gasket in place with no issues.

Mine took longer because I was installing the Milvs support. I used a spring removal tool and since I had never been inside a BMW this far...I wanted to see how the intermediate rockers worked in regards to the eccentric shaft.

So I took everything apart out of curiosity.

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by b1aze

If you read the link, youd see the Valve Cover comes with the gaskets, valvetronic gaskets and bolts.

I personally wouldn't trust the aftermarket valve covers. With how prone these are to cracking already, i doubt any aftermarket is stronger. If you save $200 on the part but have to replace it again in 2 years, is it worth it?

I read it, but that site is pretty week, and it wasn't clear.

Thanks,

Edit, I had to find it at the bottom of the Q&A.

As for breaking one installing it, I am a pretty experienced wrench. Though not impossible, it is very unlikely (except now that I said that...)

[b1aze]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

I read it, but that site is pretty week, and it wasn't clear.

Thanks,

Edit, I had to find it at the bottom of the Q&A.

As for breaking one installing it, I am a pretty experienced wrench. Though not impossible, it is very unlikely (except now that I said that...)

IMO, its not the risk of it breaking during install, its the risk of expansion/contraction and stresses on the cover due to torque pattern etc further down the road. I have read a few vastly differing opinions on the correct torque pattern and value that I could easily see inducing additional stress especially at the corners.

[JimVonBaden]

Originally Posted by b1aze

IMO, its not the risk of it breaking during install, its the risk of expansion/contraction and stresses on the cover due to torque pattern etc further down the road. I have read a few vastly differing opinions on the correct torque pattern and value that I could easily see inducing additional stress especially at the corners.

The manual doesn't give a torque pattern, and the torque value is so low that many torque wrenches don't accurately cover it. Which is why some covers are damaged by ham fisted wrenches. Same happens on BMW motorcycles. Typically not an issue for me, and I always tighten in a cross pattern.

One video I recently shot involved the 12+ bolts on the cam carrier on a 2020 R1250 BMW Shiftcam bike. You can see what I mean.





IMHO, the majority of issues related to this kind of work are user error more than material defects.

[Rmtt]

There are torque diagrams all over the web....but I think using some general sense is the biggest.

I hand tightened each bolt snug starting in the middle, then working my way outside alternating one side to the other.

And a 1/4" tq wrench is best.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

The manual doesn't give a torque pattern, and the torque value is so low that many torque wrenches don't accurately cover it. Which is why some covers are damaged by ham fisted wrenches. Same happens on BMW motorcycles. Typically not an issue for me, and I always tighten in a cross pattern.

One video I recently shot involved the 12+ bolts on the cam carrier on a 2020 R1250 BMW Shiftcam bike. You can see what I mean.





IMHO, the majority of issues related to this kind of work are user error more than material defects.

Originally Posted by JimVonBaden

The manual doesn't give a torque pattern.

It absolutely does.