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      08-02-2019, 12:58 PM   #1
nikica
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Springs Binding =[

Hey guys just a quick history. My OEM suspension on my 08 135i was really starting to see better days and I was getting a lot of bushing groaning noises from the front end.

I purchased a b14 kit and after installed was still getting some sort of clunking noise just from my driver front side. Took it to my shop because I couldn't figure out what was going on (I did the b14 install myself). They told me my top strut mounts were no good.

I purchased a set of Kmac stage 3 camber plates for the front. Had my shop install them but was still getting the small clunk noise from the same corner. After a day I started to also get a really bad binding noise from the same corner. Took it back yesterday and we can see clearly that the binding is coming from where the bottom of the spring sits on the strut. Im not sure if this is causing both noises.

Regardless is there anyone with this same problem. has anyone ever installed a needle bearing kit between the bottom of the springs and strut?

TY in advance :]
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      08-03-2019, 11:30 PM   #2
nikica
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Also does anyone know the inside diameter of the b14 spring? Thanks in advance :]
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      08-04-2019, 04:02 AM   #3
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Did you install thrust sheets when you installed the kit? They allow the spring to rotate and avoid the noise.

https://www.hpashop.com/Swift-Thrust...t-bearings.htm
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      08-04-2019, 05:03 PM   #4
nikica
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Did you install thrust sheets when you installed the kit? They allow the spring to rotate and avoid the noise.

https://www.hpashop.com/Swift-Thrust...t-bearings.htm
No I'm just running the blue sheet that comes with the actual bilstein kit.

I just found those last night when searching through google lol. Also CA Tuned makes a kit. Anyone ever run these and have any luck? Love to hear recommendations.

https://catuned.com/thrust-needle-roller-bearing
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      08-04-2019, 09:07 PM   #5
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Something sounds off. If your not too far from Santa Barbara you might want to give Harold a call at HP Autoworks. He knows suspension on these cars.
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      08-04-2019, 10:03 PM   #6
nikica
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I'm not too far. Going to order the thirst sheets tomorrow and get those installed first. I know it will take care of my binding noise issue because I can see with my eyes exactly where its binding on the spring.

Just need to figure out the clunking noise afterwards. Or maybe the thrust sheets will fix that noise also? I just don't know where its coming from exactly...
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      08-05-2019, 12:10 PM   #7
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Ordered this kit from HPA. Will keep you posted :]

https://www.hpashop.com/Swift-Thrust...t-bearings.htm
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      08-05-2019, 12:44 PM   #8
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It could be that you over torqued your strut bearing top net ?

When I did my B12 kit, I didn't tighten the strut bearing (22 or 21mm)nut enough and it caused all sort of knocking noises on my first test drive. I did my install myself too. A few zaps with my cordless impact gun, fixed my issue.

There is also a paper gasket that goes between the strut bearing and the body of the car. This gasket is important bc it allows you to swing the strut in and out when adjusting camber from side to side.


B12 Bilsteins and Eibach springs. (I know you have a different setup).
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Dinan camber plates and the 21mm(?) nut.
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      08-05-2019, 01:26 PM   #9
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Thank you for the photos! But yes I've taken it apart multiple times already lol and the top nut is snug.

I actually ditched the gasket that you're referring to because when I installed my coilovers I didn't order a new one (didn't know there was a gasket there) & my old one was so brittle and destroyed. I remember immediately looking online to read up on that gasket and most people were saying you don't need it? Is that where my clunking noise is coming from? It definitely makes sense because the noise was not there before the b14 install.....

Last edited by nikica; 08-05-2019 at 01:33 PM..
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      08-07-2019, 11:31 AM   #10
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Installed this kit from HPA just now:
https://www.hpashop.com/Swift-Thrust...t-bearings.htm

Drove so far about 7 miles and has so far completely fixed my coils binding and the noise that came with it.

As far as the other noise goes I believe it's coming from my sway bar end links. Going to replace those at noon today so I'm hoping that will fix my other noise.
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      08-07-2019, 06:24 PM   #11
nikica
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Replaced the sway bar end links and that made a huge difference with stiffness and smoothness. Couldn't believe how big of a difference it made for me. Also took a bit away from the clunking noise.

I think my sway bar mounts are bad or the sway bar is bent? Which is causing the clunking noise I'm getting?
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      08-08-2019, 06:43 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikica View Post
Replaced the sway bar end links and that made a huge difference with stiffness and smoothness. Couldn't believe how big of a difference it made for me. Also took a bit away from the clunking noise.

I think my sway bar mounts are bad or the sway bar is bent? Which is causing the clunking noise I'm getting?
Quote:
Originally Posted by nikica View Post
Replaced the sway bar end links and that made a huge difference with stiffness and smoothness. Couldn't believe how big of a difference it made for me. Also took a bit away from the clunking noise.

I think my sway bar mounts are bad or the sway bar is bent? Which is causing the clunking noise I'm getting?

Which type (brand / style) end links did you end up using as a replacement ?
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      08-08-2019, 12:11 PM   #13
nikica
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I actually just replaced my OEM ones with another set of OEM's. Didn't realize how beat my original pair were...

Still have the clunking at low speeds its driving my crazy. The noise came directly after I installed my coilovers. I can't figure it out lol

Also are there any e82 meet ups in SoCal??
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      08-09-2019, 09:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
It could be that you over torqued your strut bearing top net ?

When I did my B12 kit, I didn't tighten the strut bearing (22 or 21mm)nut enough and it caused all sort of knocking noises on my first test drive. I did my install myself too. A few zaps with my cordless impact gun, fixed my issue.

There is also a paper gasket that goes between the strut bearing and the body of the car. This gasket is important bc it allows you to swing the strut in and out when adjusting camber from side to side.


B12 Bilsteins and Eibach springs. (I know you have a different setup).
Attachment 2114419

Attachment 2114420

Dinan camber plates and the 21mm(?) nut.
Attachment 2114422
I would be cautious about using an impact on a strut/damper rod. Doing so can unscrew the nut of the bottom of the piston rod if it is not staked in from the factory. This will create a knocking noise you won't be able to find unless you remove the strut/damper from the car and open it up. Might not be a big deal on your parts (as I don't believe they are serviceable, could be wrong), but on a rebuildable strut/damper this is of concern.

A better solution to tighten the mount to the rod would be to use a see through socket (link below) with an Allen key socket holding the rod stationary.

https://www.bostitch.com/products/to...-set/btmt72287
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      08-09-2019, 10:57 AM   #15
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Everytime I have encountered a "clunk" after suspension work something wasn't torqued properly. I suspect the OP doesn't know how to used a torque wrench or the install is screwed up.
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      08-09-2019, 11:31 AM   #16
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I found on my old Eclipse that the strut nut (the center one) was in fact tight, but I had clunking. Realized that the nut was bottomed out on the threads, but the parts were not tight to the car. Seemed like the same thing of course, but very different in reality.

Be sure you have not bottomed out on the threads on the strut shaft, make sure you have more available there to be certain things are actually all tightened together.
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      08-09-2019, 06:13 PM   #17
nikica
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Lol I know how to use a torque wrench and the noise is only coming from the driver side not both sides. & I actually had my mechanic install my camber plates after I did my coil overs. So he technically over looked all my work after.

I'll check the top nut. I see what you're saying of having it fully tightened down and having the parts still having some play inside. But I did the same thing to my passenger side and don't have any issues there so why would this side be different? It's he same parts.
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      08-09-2019, 07:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikica View Post
But I did the same thing to my passenger side and don't have any issues there so why would this side be different? It's he same parts.
I hear you, but small variations can add up. Or a simple washer was forgotten. Or the struts were manufactured on different days and had small differences. Or something was put on upside down. Who knows, but it's worth a check.
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      08-09-2019, 11:16 PM   #19
nikica
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Definitely. All it takes is a hair width of play to give a horrid clunking noise lol. I'm going to pull it apart again and try one more time 😭
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      08-10-2019, 05:14 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikica View Post
Definitely. All it takes is a hair width of play to give a horrid clunking noise lol. I'm going to pull it apart again and try one more time ��
Take some pics of the shock & strut bearing. I must have taken mine apart three of four times... bc I wasn't sure IF I put that big washer in correctly. Turns out I didn't at first. The first time I assembled the struts I tightened the upper nut(22 or 21mm) too tight. So when the strut would need to turn... it binded up. This could be your problem as well.

Second time I put things together... I didn't tighten that nut enough... so on my test drive I had some horrible knocking noises. Third time was the charm. Just a few Brrrrraaaps from my impact gun. Don't go crazy!! Just a few luv taps.

You suppose to use a special socket which has the side cut out and you use a L key or Allen wrench to stop the shock's piston from spinning as you apply the correct torque. But in the real world I bet most people just use a cordless impact.

The washer has an o-ring... that seals the underside of the strut bearing(grease). I couldn't find anything on the interwebs on how to orientate that washer. But I saw on a few YouTube videos how it should be installed. Now looking back it makes sense that the o-ring seals the bearing. Not sure how your coilovers are put together. But It doesn't hurt to look at a few videos just to be sure.


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That washer seals up the underside of the strut bearing...
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DINAN camber plate...
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      08-10-2019, 10:23 AM   #21
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The proper tool is the Schwaben Strut Nut tool. It comes is various sizes:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...iABEgLpGPD_BwE

The center is held with a 7mm allen wrench. This stuff is cheap to buy and absolutely necessary if you are doing any suspension work.

The paper gasket mentioned is what's known as an isolator. They are necessary to prevent squeaks and other irritating noises. Springs will use rubber cups or pads as isolators when necessary.

I've done a ton of suspension work over the years. Assuming the B12 is appropriate to your car, it is a bullet proof install. When problems arise with it, it is either a faulty install or not using a correctly calibrated torque wrench. I use a Schwaben non-digital which is spot on calibration.

From what I've read here, I don't think any of you know what you're doing.
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