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      06-07-2021, 07:44 PM   #1
micktor
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Just bought a 128i! Changed oil then rough idle / stalling after first drive

Just picked up a beautiful 2011 128i, 72k miles. Put a couple hundred miles on it no problem. Very next day decided to do some standard maintainence, serpentine belt was wearing out so I changed it along with new oil. Go for a first drive and reach a stop sign - the car is shaking violently and misfiring. Ruling out sparkplugs and coils as those were just changed. Doubt it's serpentine belt related it is on correctly and I double checked everything. This all leads me to the oil change causing the issue, I checked the level on first start and it was right at full line.

Here's what I've changed since the rough idle:
2 Vanos solenoids
2 Camshaft position sensors
Oil Filter cover
Checked fuses
Recalibrated valvetronic motor

Throwing codes:
P052B (Permanent)
P13B0 (Permanent)

Cleared the following:
2A9A
2A7C DME
P0016
Misfire (cyl 1-4)

After all of this - no change! Here is what the startup looks like. Anyone experience something like this before? I'm running out of ideas so any help is appreciated. I thought surely the solenoids would resolve the issue. Lovely first day of owning a BMW

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      06-07-2021, 10:33 PM   #2
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Caveat emptor: I'm (clearly over) researching the 128i before buying, so Not An Expert.

Came across this the other day. The "non return valves". Seems ... plausible?
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      06-08-2021, 12:42 AM   #3
micktor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Almuliman View Post
Caveat emptor: I'm (clearly over) researching the 128i before buying, so Not An Expert.

Came across this the other day. The "non return valves". Seems ... plausible?
Hah! Forgot to mention I did those too, they came out clean. My working theories now are

1. Sheared vanos bolts. Anyone know how to get it fixed under recall?
2. Valvetronic Eccentric Shaft Sensor

Probably going to take the valve cover off if a new set of Bosch coils + plugs doesn't change anything
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      06-08-2021, 11:42 AM   #4
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micktor

Double check that the oil fill cap is on tight.
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      06-08-2021, 02:22 PM   #5
micktor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
micktor

Double check that the oil fill cap is on tight.
Thanks, yeah I checked the oil fill cap and checked the filter cover again. I started it with maf unplugged and eccentric shaft sensor unplugged, still rough and misfiring but didn't want to completely stall. Don't know what to make of that but we'll see what happens after the new coils and plugs go in
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      06-08-2021, 05:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micktor View Post
Thanks, yeah I checked the oil fill cap and checked the filter cover again. I started it with maf unplugged and eccentric shaft sensor unplugged, still rough and misfiring but didn't want to completely stall. Don't know what to make of that but we'll see what happens after the new coils and plugs go in
It's amazing how much a not sealed oil cap makes the car run bad. First time I changed my oil I thought I ruined my car.
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      06-08-2021, 06:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
It's amazing how much a not sealed oil cap makes the car run bad. First time I changed my oil I thought I ruined my car.
Huh interesting I checked again after your comment and noticed that theres no square rubber piece that holds the cap from underneath. I don't think this part actually does anything other than hold the cap though does it? Going to order a new one just in case
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      06-08-2021, 07:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micktor View Post
Huh interesting I checked again after your comment and noticed that theres no square rubber piece that holds the cap from underneath. I don't think this part actually does anything other than hold the cap though does it? Going to order a new one just in case
Vacuum leaks do funny things, worth getting a new one to be sure since they're cheap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by micktor View Post
Ruling out sparkplugs and coils as those were just changed.
Well, when were they changed compared to when the issue started? Sounds like well before, but if it was at the same time then it could indeed be them.
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      06-09-2021, 12:31 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracer bullet View Post
Vacuum leaks do funny things, worth getting a new one to be sure since they're cheap.



Well, when were they changed compared to when the issue started? Sounds like well before, but if it was at the same time then it could indeed be them.
Were changed by previous owner less than 5k miles ago, pulled them out and saw that they were an amazon brand which is why I'll be trying new ones today
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      06-09-2021, 08:56 PM   #10
micktor
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Update: Changed all 6 plugs + coils + oil cap

Took video of idle again, theres a pronounced "trtrttrtr" noise when the revs are low. Anyone think this sounds familiar? I'm thinking fuel injectors?




Last edited by micktor; 06-09-2021 at 09:08 PM..
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      06-10-2021, 08:02 AM   #11
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Injectors aren't unreasonable, having one stuck open will be a pronounced clatter.

Any cylinder specific codes? Did any plug look different than the others?

There's a chance you got some crappy gas the last fill up.
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      06-12-2021, 03:22 PM   #12
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UPDATE: Vanos bolts sheared off, 3 months over 10 year recall...

Took off the valve cover to find my biggest suspicion was true, 3 bolts completely out and 4th missing the head. Will these be primarily be found in the oil pan? Is there a way to ensure I can find get them out? Didn't see anything in the head itself. Man I wish the dealer could do this for me lol
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      06-12-2021, 06:31 PM   #13
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This is crazy! I'm haven't payed much attention to the 128 posts because I've been off in N54 land but this seems like a crazy failure. Is this a common issue?
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      06-12-2021, 06:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy C View Post
This is crazy! I'm haven't payed much attention to the 128 posts because I've been off in N54 land but this seems like a crazy failure. Is this a common issue?
I'd assume it's only a matter of time if you fall under the affected years. If I were out of warranty and had no symptoms I'd at least check the bolts with an endoscope through the oil fill cap
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      06-12-2021, 07:56 PM   #15
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Woah. Unexpected. But - now you know what's wrong! Dang.
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      06-12-2021, 08:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracer bullet View Post
Woah. Unexpected. But - now you know what's wrong! Dang.
Yeah I'm actually pretty happy to finally have a diagnosis, going to replace the timing sprockets and hope the valves never got bent.. fingers crossed
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      06-14-2021, 05:48 PM   #17
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If the car was a CA car, doesn't it have a PZEV/SULEV classification? Then this might classify as an emissions warranty item 15yrs, 150k miles? I could be wrong though.
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      06-14-2021, 06:58 PM   #18
micktor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtla1 View Post
If the car was a CA car, doesn't it have a PZEV/SULEV classification? Then this might classify as an emissions warranty item 15yrs, 150k miles? I could be wrong though.
It was initially purchased out of state so it has the n52k
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      06-16-2021, 06:00 PM   #19
micktor
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Ever wondered where the bolts go when they fall?

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      06-20-2021, 03:15 AM   #20
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FINAL UPDATE: Changed both vanos gears, set the timing and.. success! No more rough idle and a joy to drive
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      06-20-2021, 08:49 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micktor View Post
FINAL UPDATE: Changed both vanos gears, set the timing and.. success! No more rough idle and a joy to drive
How did you get the bolts out?
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      07-16-2021, 08:56 PM   #22
micktor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallysmurf View Post
How did you get the bolts out?
Tried using grabber tools from the top- but in the end you just have to drop the oil pan
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