BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      04-09-2018, 01:08 PM   #23
gjm120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaye944 View Post
I did some more research and n52 is different to the n54 (128 vs 135)
"apparently" the 128 doesn't need a specific tool
I'm actually going to see a mechanic (for my tire changes) and have words with him

(famous last words)

LOLZ
That's what I thought. Did you confirm a regular spark plug socket works?
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      04-09-2018, 01:16 PM   #24
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nope not done the job yet, too cold, LOL

No, I'm waiting to see my tire guy (to do the tire change over), who also does work on BM's
gonna show him my sockets and see what he thinks



Quote:
Originally Posted by gjm120 View Post
That's what I thought. Did you confirm a regular spark plug socket works?
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      04-09-2018, 01:52 PM   #25
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128 uses a regular 16mm socket.
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      04-09-2018, 01:57 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
128 uses a regular 16mm socket.
and that's what I heard
oh and txs for the reply
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      05-26-2018, 04:11 PM   #27
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Hey Guy's,

Uploaded a video, I made some mistakes, so bear with me (constructive criticism always welcome)

I did the plugs and both filters, was a beast of a job, mainly because I ended up running around for some extra tools, also the plugs where tight as fcuk.

My take on it, do with the engine cold, use 1/2" 6point, deep reach (STANDARD) socket, taped to a extension with a breaker bar.

I also used a slight smear of engine oil, as I saw some threads saying that the anti-seize caused more problems.

BMW had fitted them with nothing and 4 of them where hard to remove, now whether it was due to over tightening I don't know.

Good learning curve,

also and don't ask... remove your belt when working on a car and use fender covers

like I said don't ask....... I now have another project remove 2 gouges out of the fender

OH, and I painted the cable tray, body color,, very low key, adds a nice touch I think

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      05-26-2018, 04:13 PM   #28
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I later found I didn't fit the cable tray correctly, 2 clips where wrong, sorted now all is good !
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      07-18-2018, 04:51 PM   #29
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I just changed the plugs on my new-to-me n52 with 68k miles and I can tell you that they should have been changed long ago. The electrodes were worn down to mere nubs. There's no way they were making a reliable spark with that much gap. I would say 40k is the limit but I'll probably change them at 30k.
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      07-21-2018, 12:09 PM   #30
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My mother gave me some advice a long time ago, she said "You never can brush your teeth too often" same can be said for oil changes, spark plug changes, and air filter changes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderguts View Post
I just changed the plugs on my new-to-me n52 with 68k miles and I can tell you that they should have been changed long ago. The electrodes were worn down to mere nubs. There's no way they were making a reliable spark with that much gap. I would say 40k is the limit but I'll probably change them at 30k.
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      07-22-2018, 08:20 PM   #31
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      07-23-2018, 01:56 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaye944 View Post
My mother gave me some advice a long time ago, she said "You never can brush your teeth too often" same can be said for oil changes, spark plug changes, and air filter changes
My Prelude burns oil like crazy and tends to foul the plugs pretty quickly. I can change them out in as little as 15 minutes and for about $10. Consequently I changed them about every 5k miles. There's no need for me to do that with my 128i, but I would say 30k or every 2-3 years is a good target. They absolutely should NOT have been in there 68k.
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      08-10-2018, 09:17 AM   #33
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This is probably in the youtube but you definitely do not need a special socket for a n52. I couldn't locate my spark plug socket so I just used a regular deep socket that fit a new plug (don't remember size). Mine were not especially tight but I used my harbor freight 3/8 ratchet that extends to breaker bar length when you need extra torque. So even if they were tight I would not have noticed it much with the extra leverage. Because I was using a regular deep socket, I had to use needle nose pliers to remove the plugs. No big deal.

My old ones were NGK as were my new ones. I just ordered them from RockAuto. Work fine. NGK does not recommend anti-seeze so I did not use any. I did torque to 18 ft lbs. I don't use my 3/8 torque wrench much and it was a good excuse to get it out. You could use a 1/2 but it is a pretty low torque for a 1/2.

Once you have access to the plugs, replacement is simple. Removing all the junk over the plugs is the work. But it is still a 2-3 hour job for me.
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